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Glass 



UK 4,1 6 



Book. 






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WBziU tfirougft Bart. 



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1 1 1* 



MARCHANT, Printer, 
Irtgram-Court, London. 



tttaifte rtjrowjrt Bart), 

DESCRIBING 

EVERY THING WORTHY OF INTEREST 

CONNECTED WITH THE 



Public Buildings, the Rooms, Crescents, Theatre, 
Concerts, Baths, its Literature, fyc. 

INCLUDING 

WALCOT AND WIDCOMBE, 

AND THE 

g>tirroutrtrtft0 WlitinitQ; 

With Sketches of 

PRIOR-PARK-HOUSE, THE ROCKS OF WICK, CORSHAM-HOUSE, AND 
ITS FINE COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS : 

ALSO AN EXCURSION TO 

CLIFTON AND BRISTOL HOT- WELLS, 

Witi a Visit to Lord de Clifford's House, and some Rerharks upon its Pictures : 

The whole forming 

& complete ffititire 

TO THE 

VISITORS OF THE ABOVE CITY. 



By P. EGAN. x0^^ 



PRINTED FOR MEYLER AND SON, 

at tlie Bath Herald Office; 

BARRY AND SON, BRISTOL; J.VINCENT, OXFORD; AND 

SHERWOOD, NEELY, AND JONES, LONDON. 

1819. 



PREFACE. 



Bath has been so long known, so much fre- 
quented, and so often written upon by various 
authors, both in the serious* and comic f style of 
description, that it might be presumed little mat- 
ter is now left to furnish any thing like contents 
for a new volume, without monotonously 
treading over aud over again the same hack- 
neyed, beaten ground : and however industriously 
the literary sportsman may beat up the field, he 
is not likely to put up any fresh birds, much 
more bring them down : — 

Scribblers are sportsmen; and, as sportsmen are, 
Some hit, some miss, some poach, and some beat fair; 
This wounds a straggling bird ; that often tries 
J3ut never kills; he shoots and shuts both eyes. 
Some will whole covies take, nineteen in twenty ; 
And then you smack your lips — for game is plenty ; 
In short, by you their merits must be tried ; 
And woe to them who are not qualified ! 

Whatever has been written relative to the 
Antiquities of Bath, (whether fabulous or 

* Warner. t Anstpv 



IV PREFACE. 

real,) it must be admitted the subject has been 
fully explored ; its fine Old Abbey por- 
trayed ; the beauty and elegance of its Cres- 
cents not omitted ; its Amusements blazoned 
forth; its Charities not forgotten; its Com- 
forts recognized ; its extreme cleanliness 
developed ; the virtues of its Baths promul- 
gated ; and the efficacy of its Waters en- 
larged upon, in all the various " Old" and " New 
Guides" still extant : the thing is not meant to be 
denied; nor is it the intention of the Author 
to assert, that any of the above fixed pictures 
are not faithful portraits. But notwithstand- 
ing this disparagement and great drawback to 
surmount — 

True hope ne'er tires, but mounts with eagle's wings, 

and anew moving Picture of Bath is at length 
produced. How far the artist has hit off an 
accurate and animated likeness — with what fide- 
lity he has preserved the features — whether the 
light and shade have been properly introduced — 
the tints glowing — and the colouring so well 
diffused as to harmonize the whole, must be left 
to the decision of his judges. The attempt is 
nouvelle; and, he trusts, the " Walks through 



PREFACE. V 

Bath" will not only prove interesting and use- 
ful, but that it will ultimately give pleasure to 
all his readers. 

Although the visitor may " read as he runs" 
in his perambulations through the streets of 
Bath, yet nothing of importance has been omit- 
ted ; and the numerous engravings, executed 
by an eminent artist,* will most accurately 
point out to him, that every building of note is 
presented to his view. It will also possess this 
advantage, that it will save the unpleasant trouble 
of asking questions. 

To the admirers of the Fine Arts, a cata- 
logue of the numerous Pictures ; a sketch of the 
interior of the Mansion ; a review of the Plea- 
sure-Grounds, and every subject connected with 
Corsham-House, so highly interesting to all 
its visitors, is minutely introduced. 

The lovers of Literature will also peruse 
some short accounts of those persons, natives of 
Bath, whose genius and talents have tended 
to increase the importance of this attractive 
City, 

And to add to the interest, if not the comple- 
tion, of the " Walks through Bath/' a de*> 

* J. Stoser* 



VI PREFACE. 

scriptive Itinerary has been attempted from 
Hyde-Park Corner, London, to the " En- 
trance" of the above elegant City, in which no 
gentleman's seat, no anecdote illustrative of the 
various towns, or other prominent features tend- 
ing to occupy the mind of the traveller, have been 
omitted. The various objects upon the road 
from Bath to Bristol have also been described 
with equal minuteness and attention. A w t alk 
to the Rocks of St. Vincent, Bristol Hot-Wells 
and Clifton, and the Park of Lord de Clifford, 
with some remarks on his fine Collection of Paint- 
ings has also been introduced, in order to save 
the time of the traveller, if necessary, who may 
feel disposed to extend his journey by viewing 
the above delightful subjects, so intimately con- 
nected with a visit to Bath. 

The Author has only to regret, that descrip- 
tion, however highly-coloured, must fall short 
towards communicating with effect, the unparal- 
leled and delightful scenery with which this most 
elegant City abounds. 



April 2, 1819. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Preface iii 

List of Plates x 

Coaches from London to Bath . ... . . xi 

Descriptive Itinerary of all the Towns and Gen- 
tlemen's Seats, from Hyde-Park-Corner to 
Bath ... 1 

Entrance to Bath 33 

Epitome of Ancient and Modern Bath, a Prelude 

to the Walks .... 39 

WALK I. 

From the York Hotel to the Abbey, Great 
Pump-Room, the King's, Queen's, and 
New Private Baths, Literary Society, &c. 73 

WALK II. 

From the South Wing of Sydney^Place to 
the New Church, Bathwick, South and 
North Parades, Old Rooms, Freemasons' 
Hall, Bath Antiquities, &c. 108 



<k» 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

Page 

WALK III. 

From Portland-Place to the New Rooms, 
Circus, &c 139 

WALK IV. 

From Milsom-Street to the Theatre, Parson- 
age-House, Market-House, Guildhall, Bath 
Penitentiary, Walcot Parade, the Ferry, &c. 156 

WALK V. 

From Upper Camden-Place,Lansdown-Road, 
All Saints' Chapel, the Royal Crescent, &c. 177 

WALK VI. 

The Promenade to the Village of Weston, 
House of Protection, Waterfall, &c 183 

WALK VII. 

An Aquatic Stroll. From the Old Bridge, 
alongside of the Avon, to the Gasometer ; 
return by the Upper Bristol Road, &c. . . 190 

WALK VIIL 

From High-Street to Sydney Hotel and 
Gardens ; and the Queen's House 200 

WALK IX. 

From Great Pulteney-Street to the Bride- 
well, Prior-Park and House, Allen's-Walk, 
Prospect -Place, and Stone Quarry at 
Combe-Down. To the Brass Knocker; the 
Aqueduct, &c. ...... .... 211 

WALK X. 

From the Circus to the Race-Ground and 
Stand. Lansdown Fair and Monument. 
Prospect Style. The Rocks at Wick, &c. 236 



CONTENTS. IX 

Page 

WALK (or Ride) XI. 

From Grosvenor-Place to Bath Easton, Box, 
and Pickwick. The Fine Arts. A Visit 
to Corsham-House ; its fine Collection of 
Paintings ; Park, &c 246 

WALK (or Excursion) XII. 

From the Old Bridge through Twiverton, Salt- 
ford, Keynsham, and Brislington. A Visit 
to Clifton and Bristol Hot Wells. De- 
scriptive Itinerary of the Road to Bristol. 
Walk to St. Vincent's Rocks, through 
Clifton, &c. . . 266 

WALK (or Excursion) XIII. 

A Sail down the Avon to the Harbour of 
Pill. Walk to Pen Pole, Shirehampton, 
he. A Visit to Lord de Clifford's House, 
Park, Collection of Paintings, &c 284 

Literary Characters, Natives, or Persons inti- 
mately connected with Bath 295 

List of Coaches from Bath to London, &c 311 

Caravans on the Roads contiguous to Bath .... 313 

Waggons, &c - 316 

Water-Carriage 317 

Itinerary of the various Roads from Bath 318 

Fairs 319 

Index ... 321 



LIST OF PLATES. 

York Hotel , 38 

The General Hospital 78 

The Pump Room . . . . , . . 91 

The Royal Baths 94 

The Cross Bath Pump Room 98 

The Hot Bath 99 

The Old Brid ge 1 02 

St. James's Church 103 

Bathwick Old Church 110 

Pulteney Bridge Ill 

View of the Abbey Church, from the Banks of the Avon ib. 

The Lower Rooms 112 

Freemasons' Hall 129 

Part of the Royal Circus 140 

Upper Rooms 141 

The Theatre 157 

Blue Coat School 161 

The Rector's House 1 64 

Sydney Hotel t 201 

The Queen's House 208 

Prior Park 215 



COACHES FROM LONDON TO BATH. XI 



BATH COACHES which set out from the various 
INNS in LONDON. 



ANGEL INN, ST. CLEMENT'S, STRAND.— Post Coach, through 
Reading, Newbury, Hungerford, Marlborough, Calne, and 
Chippenham, daily, at a quarter before 6 in the morning: ar- 
rives at Bath, 10 evening. 



For the Accommodation 

of Families, Invalids, §-c. (Sunday excepted,) a two-day Coach, 
by Berkhampton Inn, Devizes, and Melksham, daily, at 8 
morning. 



Post Coach, to Bristol, 

through Calne and Chippenham, daily, a quarter before 2 after- 
noon (Sunday excepted.) 

BELLE SAUVAGE, LUDGATE-HILL.— Bath and Bristol, through 
Marlborough, Calne, and Chippenham, daily, half-past 6 in 
the morning. 

BOLT-IN-TUN, FLEET-STREET.— Post Coach, by Devizes to 
Beckhampton Inn, daily, (Sunday excepted,) half-past 5 in the 
morning. 

CASTLE AND FALCON, ALDERSGATE-STREET.— Bath and 

Bristol, through Marlborough, Calne, and Chippenham, daily, 
quarter before 2 afternoon. 

CROSS KEYS, WOOD-STREET, CHEAPSIDE.— Bath and Bristol, 
(The Regulator,) daily, half-past 4 afternoon. 

GEORGE AND BLUE BOAR, HOLBORN.— Bath and Bristol, Post 
Coach, through Maidenhead, Reading, Newbury, Hungerford, 
Marlborough, Calne, and Chippenham, daily, 1 afternoon. 

GERARD'S HALL, BASING-LANE, BROAD-STREET, BLACK 
BEAR, AND WHITE HORSE CELLARS, PICCADILLY.— 
Bath, through Hungerford, Marlborough, Devizes, and Melk- 
sham, daily, 1 afternoon. 



Ditto, (The Express,) 

through Calne and Chippenham, daily, 1 afternoon, (Sunday 
at i) 



Xll COACHES FROM LONDON TO BATH. 

GOLDEN CROSS, CHARING-CROSS.— Bath and Bristol, through 
Devizes and Melksham to Beckhampton Inn, daily, 6 in the 
morning. (Sunday excepted.) 



Bath and Bristol, New Post 

Coach, by Devizes, every afternoon, at 5 o'clock. 

KING'S ARMS, SNOW-HILL.— Bath and Bristol, (The Independent,) 
through Marlborough, Devizes, and Melksham, daily, 5 in 
the morning. 

SARACEN'S HEAD, SNOW-HILL.— Bath and Bristol, through 
Newbury, Hungerford, Marlborough, and Chippenham, daily, 
1 afternoon. 

SWAN WITH TWO NECKS, LAD-LANE— Bath, Royal Mail, 
through Marlborough and Devizes, daily, half-past 7 in the 
afternoon. 



Bath and Bristol, 

(Royal Volunteer,) through Marlborough, Calne, and Chippen- 
ham, daily, quarter before 4 afternoon. 

TEMPLE COFFEE HOUSE, TAVERN, AND FAMILY HOTEL, 
STRAND, NEAR TEMPLE-BAR.— Bath and Bristol, daily, 

1 and 5 afternoon. 

WHITE BEAR, PICCADILLY.— Bath and Bristol, Post Coach, 
daily, half-past 1 afternoon. 



DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

FROM 

LONDON TO BATH. 



Fashion in ev'ry tiling bears sov'reign sway, 
And Bath for " Life !" the gayest of the gay ! 



WHEN the attractions of Margate, as a watering- 
place, have lost their charms, and become little more 
than a mere desert, its finely ornamented " steam- 
boats "* laid up, as it were, in ordinary, and its " com- 
pany " got safely back to the metropolis, once more bu- 
sily engaged behind their counters, of which, that fa- 
cetious and satiric bard,f when in the zenith of his 
powers, thus described : — 

Chang'd by their travels — mounted high in soul 
Here Suds forgets whate'er remembrance shocks, 

And Mistress Suds forgetteth too the pole, 

Wigs, bob and pig-tail, basins, razors, blocks ! 

* The rapidity and regularity of this new conveyance has 
been much admired, and provided the doubtful part of the 
passage could be got over in the minds of a few sceptics 
who place some value upon their carcasses,, namely, if the 
cargo is not altogether missing some day from the blowing up 
of the vessel, " leaving not a wreck behind," the old hoys 
must soon be exploded. 

t Peter Pindar. — This once facetious disciple of the 
Muses, it seems, has long since beea poetically dead to the 



2 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

Here Mistress Tap, from pewter pots withdrawn, 
Walks forth in all the pride of paunch and geer, 

Mounts her swoln heels on Dandelion's lawn, 
And at the ball-room heaves her heavy rear. 

Here Crispin too forgets his end and awl, 
Here Mistress Cleaver, with important looks, 

Forgets the beef and mutton on her stall, 
And lights and liver dangling from the hooks ! 

Here too the most important Dicky Dab, 

With puppy pertness, pretty, pleasant prig, 

Forgets the narrow fishy house of Crab, 
And drives in Jehu-style his whirling gig ! 

"When Cheltenham, also, has yielded up its fashion- 
able valetudinarian visitants ; and Brighton, from 
the rudely southern breezes driven the elegant and 
almost transparent fair ones off its dashing Steynes, 
and left principally to the care of its natives and 
rough uncultivated fishermen, notwithstanding roy- 

world ; and his title has been usurped by a variety of persons, 
without possessing even a mediocrity of talent, compared 
with this great original. Dr. Walcot is, however, alive 
at the present moment (Jan. 1819) ; and, independent of 
being deprived of the advantages of vision, may be said to 
enjoy a fine green old age, full of spirits, still passionately 
fond of poesy, as eager as ever to enjoy the bon mot and re- 
partee, strongly attached to literary men and literary com- 
pany ; not dull in himself when alone, and with the assist- 
ance of his attendant Hebe, who, from his dictation, pens 
down his verses, (which, according to report, are equal to 
any of his former productions, but which are said to be pre- 
served for his posthumous works,) and, with his glass of rum 
before him, from which he frequently sips, and well cased in 
flannel, he seems almost to laugh at the grim king of terrors. 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 3 

alty's palace, * " out-heroding " all the talismanic 
touches of the genii of the " Arabian Nights," it is 
then that the season for visiting the splendid and clas- 
sic BATH becomes the universal place of resort, and 
the beau monde all upon the alert to reach its fashion- 
able destination. Whether the foot-step of the gay 
" set out 7 ' of the barouche offers its ascent to the eager 
traveller, 

" With spirits gay we mount the box, the tits up to the traces," 

or, the more accommodating ladder to mount the roof 
of the Regent, f to the coachy 7 s 6i all right — va-hip!" 
and the sounding of the bugle by the guard to quit the 
bustle of the White Horse Cellar, the journey to most 
minds commences with pleasure and delight: and, al- 
though he may not possess the talents of a Sterne to 
realize another u SentimentalJourney," he will, never- 
theless, find the road far from u barren; 77 but, on the 
contrary, furnish him with abundant interesting objects 
for his attention and observation, more especially, if 
the passengers are truly English, (i. e. of that sort of 
quality which is so humourously depicted by Mathews 
in his " Mail Coach Adventures, 77 ) the traveller may 
possess the advantages of thinking; indeed, for in- 
stance, some hours often elapse before a single word 

* When this palace is completed, (in which the hammer has 
scarcely had a day's rest for the last twenty years,) it may 
bid defiance to the whole universe to produce any thing like 
an equal ! It seems as though Time did not like his work : 

As though he wanted something better still 
Than e'er was manufactur'd at his mill. 

f The name of a coach. 



4 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

can be thawed from your close-squeezed cold neigh- 
bour ; and if you can provoke any conversation beyond 
the laconic " yes, ,; or " no !" you are likely to be 
silenced after the mode of the following surly remark,, 
to prevent any future attacks : — " Sir, I am remark- 
ably well ; I was very well when I left town, I am 
very well now, and if I should happen to be taken ill, 
sir, I'll let you know.'' Yet, perhaps, it is much more 
pleasant to endure even this reserve, than to be an- 
noyed with the purse-proud importance of one of 
" Fortune's fools/' who can talk of nothing else but 
the collection of his rents, and flatters himself he has 
a right to be listened to because he is a man of pro- 
perty ; or, in being bored to death by some uninformed 
cockney, who never lost sight of Bow-Church before, 
and whose intellectual sagacity scarcely points out to 
him the difference between grass and corn, and the 
sum total of his repeated inquiries amount to, " What 
house is that there, 7 and " what is growing in this here 
field." But the journey is began ; the coach is in full 
speed; and the "goodbye" scarcely over, when the 
traveller is off the stones,— gone through Knights- 
bridge, and, before he has hardly time for a single 
reflection, arrived at Kensington-Gore, (one mile.) 
On the right stands the Palace, but now more 
famed for its delightful gardens and attractive walks 
for visitors on Sundays. Just through Kensington, 
also on the right, appears the antique mansion 
of the late Lord Holland, and father of that 
enlightened and illustrious senator, Charles James 
Fox. This venerable seat also lays claim to attention 
from the impressive death of that great, good man, 
and classic scholar, Addison, who departed this 
life in it. It was here where the above truly pious 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 5 

individual requested a young nobleman to behold 
" with what resignation a Christian could die.'* 

The chamber where the good man meets his fate, 

Is privileg'd beyond the common walk 

Of virtuous life, quite in the verge of heav'n. 

A lecture, silent, but of sov'reign pow'r! 

To vice, confusion ; and to virtue, peace. 

HAMMERSMITH soon appears in sight, (3 m. 5. 
f.) and on the right of which stands the pleasant seat 
of R. Ricardo, Esq. On the left is seen, contiguous 
to the banks of the Thames, the beautiful mansion of 
the Margravine of Anspach, known by the name of 
Brandenburgh -House. The approach to it from the 
water is picturesque in the extreme ; and art has been 
consulted and employed to render its appearance 
highly interesting to the spectator: the gardens are 
laid out with great taste. The Margravine is a lady 
not only conspicuous for her eminent literary talents, 
her splendid private theatricals, performed in the 
theatre at Brandenburgh-House, in which her serene 
highness frequently delighted her auditory in the two 
characters of heroine and author; but was of great 
notoriety in the fashionable world. From her superior 
knowledge and facility in the' French and Italian lan- 
guages, her great taste for the arts of poetry and music, 
and considerable personal attraction, the Margravine 
was viewed as one of the most admired women of her 
time. Her highness has published several works in 
poetry, the drama, travels, and novels ; and, as a 
traveller, since the days of Lady Mary Wortley Mon- 
tague, no female ever made so enterprising, extensive, 
and masculine a tour as the Margravine. In short, 
few, if any, places of note upon the Continent were 
suffered to escape her notice or her pen, and fre- 

b 2 



6 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

quently at the hazard of her existence. The following 
poem was written by this person of rank, when Lady 
Craven, on dreaming she saw her heart at her feet: — 

" When Nature, tir'd with thought, was sunk to rest, 
And all my senses were by sleep possest ; 
Sweet sleep, that- soft and balmy comfort brings, 
Alike to beggars and despotic kings ; 
I dreamt of peace I never felt before, 
I dreamt my heart was lying on the floor. 
I view'd it, strange to tell, with joyful eyes, 
And stranger still, without the least surprise ! 
Elated with the sight I smiling sat, 
Exulting o'er the victim at my feet ; 
But soon with words of anguish thus address'd, 
This painful, sweet disturber of my breast : — 

' Say, busy, lively, hoping, trembling thing, 
What new disaster hast thou now to bring, t 
' To torture with thy fears my tender frame, 
Who must for all her ills thee only blame ? 
Speak now, and tell me why, ungrateful guest, 
For ten years past hast thou denied me rest ? 
Then in my bosom thou wastnurs'd, 'tis true. 
And with my life and with my stature grew . 
At first so small were all thv wants, that I 
Vainly imagin'd I could ne'er deny 
Whate'er thy fancy ask'd. Alas ! but now, 
I find thy wants my ev'ry sense outgrow ; 
And ever having, ever wanting more, 
A power to please, to give, or to adore. 
Say, why, like other hearts, thou dost not bear, 
With callous apathy, each worldly care? 
Why dost thou shrink at Envy's horrid cries ? 
In thee Compassion Hatred's place supplies. 
Why not with malice treat malicious men ? 
Why ever pity where thou should'st condomn ? 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 7 

Why, at the hearing of a dismal tale, 

Dost thou with sorrow turn thy beauty pale ? 

Why, when distress in any shape appears, 

Dost thou dissolve my very soul in tears ? 

Why, in thy secret folds is Friendship bred ? 

In other hearts its very name is dead. 

Why, if keen Wit and learned Sense draw nigh, 

Dost thou with emulation beat so high ? 

And while approving, wish to be approv'd, 

And when you love, wish more to be belov'd ? 

Why not, in cold indifference ever clad, 

Alike unmov'd, regard the good and bad ? 

Why dost thou waste ray youthful bloom with care, 

And sacrifice myself, that I might share 

Distress in others ? Why wilt thou adorn 

Their days with roses, and leave me a thorn?' 

But here I saw it heave a heavy sigh, 
And thus in sweetest sounds it did reply : 
' Ah! cease, Eliza, cease thy speech unjust; 
Thy heart has e'er fulfill'd its sacred trust, 
And ever will its tender mansion serve, 
Nor can it from thee this reproach deserve : 
Against my dictates murm'ring have I found, 
Which thus has laid me bleeding on the ground.' " 

In the neighbourhood of Hammersmith stands also 
the estate of W. Hunter, Esq. 

TURNHAM-GREEN,(5m. 1 f.) Contiguous to this 
little place the following seats are to be met with : — 

G. E. Griffith, Esq. Mrs. Stephens, Ware, Esq. 

Neale, Esq. and Mrs. Wildman. To the left, 

Sutton-Court, Sidebottom, Esq. and at Little 

Sutton, Mrs. Pratt, also Grove-House, Rev. Mr. 
Lowth ; Fairlawn-House, on the right, — — Thomson, 
Esq. But, the most prominent mansion stands on 
the left of Sutton, Ckiswick- House, the residence of 



8 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

the late and present Duke of Devonshire. The 
slightest glance of this house cannot but awaken the 
feelings of the passenger with some pleasing recollec- 
tions concerning two of its dearest inmates, long 
since consigned to that " bourne from whence no 
traveller returns." And Chiszvick- House will long be 
remembered, not only for its political meetings under 
the staunch Whig principles and influence of the 
Duke, his strong and steady attachment to the Con- 
stitution, and his amiability of character through life ; 
but equally renowned as the Temple of the Muses, 
the abode of Wit, and the circle of elegant and polite 
literature, under the patronage and taste of the 
Duchess; whom Nature and Art had united in 
rendering one of the most beautiful, accomplished, 
and superior females of her day. It is thus a cele- 
brated bard invoked " Old Time" to ward off his dire 
effects upon her lovely person :— - 

Know, should'st thou bid the beauteous Duchess fade, 
Thou, therefore, must thy own delights invade ' T 
And know, 'twill be a long, long while, 
Before thou giv'st her equal to our isle — 
Then do not with this sweet chef-cPoeuvre part, 
But keep, to shew the triumph of thy art. 

The traveller is, at length, awakened from this 
reverie, by the long, stony, jolting town of 

BRENTFORD, (7 m. 1 f.) consisting of upwards of 
300 houses, irregularly built, and containing nearly 
2000 inhabitants. It is, however, a place of but little 
notoriety, excepting at the dissolution of Parliament; 
yet the memorable spirited contests of those " men 
of the people/ 7 Wilkes and Sir Francis Burdett, 
have given it a sort of political importance it other- 
wise would not have acquired. On the left of Brent- 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 9 

*ord is seen Kew-Bridge; and at various parts of the 
town, the new palace, built under the immediate 
direction of His Majesty, (although it never became 
the residence of the King,) is viewed across the river 
with a pleasing effect, and generally considered as an 
ornament to Brentford. The propriety of erecting a 
palace in such a situation has been much questioned, 
in consequence of the humidity with which the inte- 
rior has to contend against; but, the palace at Kew 
derived most of its importance from being the resi- 
dence of the Queen, during her long-protracted illness 
and death, which occurred on Tuesday, Nov. 17, 
1818, at twenty minutes after one o'clock. The re- 
mains of her Majesty also lay in state at Kew-Palace, 
previous to their interment in the royal cemetry at 
Windsor, Dec. 2. His Royal Highness the Prince 
Regent attended as chief mourner upon this occasion. 
During one of the longest reigns which ever occurred 
in this or any other country, (throughout a period of 
fifty-seven years, in which some political questions of 
great moment were agitated, and personally connected 
with her Majesty's situation,) it is almost impossible 
to suppose, that the character of the Queen could be 
passed over without some inquiry as to the merits of 
praise or censure. The charges of parsimony, and 
even exercising an undue influence in state affairs, 
have been levelled at her late Majesty, resting, it ap- 
pears, merely on hearsay and conjecture : it is, how- 
ever, admitted by all parties, that, in the example of 
domestic morality and virtue which she constantly 
held forth to the English people, she merited the 
highest praise that a nation can bestow. It would 
require an age of experience and an unbounded know- 
ledge of mankind, to make a fair calculation of the 



10 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

innumerable benefits which such an influence as this 
must have had on society; and, it is not too much to 
say, that the chastity which distinguishes the females 
of this country above all others in the world, — a virtue 
without which political liberty is a mere shadow, — 
was, in some degree, caused by the salutary lessons 
which the uniform practice of the court had inculcated. 
Fortunately for the nation, the most useful virtues of 
private life were practised in a quarter where, like the 
fashions in dress, it was impossible they should not 
be imitated ; so that^ the possession of those virtues 
was an object of ambition. The noble firmness with 
which the Queen repelled from her presence females 
of even the highest rank, whose characters appeared 
in a suspicious light, must command the admiration 
and gratitude of all persons, who can appreciate the 
benefits resulting from public and private morality. 
The middle classes of society also felt an elevation of 
mind, and a self-applauding conciousness of their own 
dignity, when they perceived, that without the prac- 
tice of those moral virtues which belonged to them- 
selves, neither rank, title, or wealth, could meet with 
any countenance at court. 

The Grand Junction Canal, after running from North- 
amptonshire through a variety of places, for the dis- 
tance of 934 miles, at length unites itself with the 
Thames at Brentford-Bridge. On passing through Brent- 
ford, on the left, stands Sion-House, the capacious and 
elegant mansion of the Duke of Northumberland, 
fitted up and finished after the best models of Greece 
and Rome, which, for taste and beauty, is scarcely to 
be paralleled in Europe ; the approach to which 
through the grounds is particularly picturesque; and 
the lion on the top of the handsome gates of the 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 11 

lodge, not only designates this prominent ornament of 
the Northumberland family, but renders the entrance 
truly grand and imposing. This neighbourhood has 
also to boast of more houses belonging to some of the 
most ancient of our nobility. On the right, Sion-Hill, 
the Duke of Marlborough ; opposite to Sion-Lodge, is 
the seat of Miss Batten; and, at the distance of a 
mile is Osterley-Park, the beautiful residence of the 
Earl of Jersey, formerly belonging to Mr. Child, the 
most opulent banker in the city, but which was left 
by him to Lady Sarah Fane, (who married the above 
Earl, and daughter to the Countess of Westmorland,) 
in consequence of the latter's elopement and marriage 
with the Earl of that name, in opposition to her father, 
Mr. Child. This circumstance, which once so much 
agitated the fashionable world, is now got rid of in 
the mind of the traveller by his arrival at 

SMALLBERRY-GREEN, (8 m. 2 f.) This little 
village becomes important to the inquisitive mind of the 
passenger, who learns, that Spring-Grove, on the 
right, is the seat of that learned antiquary and bota- 
nist, the Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, Bart. The 
mildness of manners, the amiability of deportment, 
and the literary converzationes of this gentleman to 
benefit his country, and improve the general habits of 
society, have not been able to preserve him from the 
attacks of ridicule and satire by the humourous Capt. 
Morris and the facetious (though not always correct 
as to facts) Peter Pindar. On the discovery of 
Botany-Bay, by Capt. Cook, the former poet thus 
mentions Sir Joseph, in one of his political songs, 
which was received with great eclat at the Sons of 
Anacreon, Beef-steak Club, &c. &c. 



12 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

You have heard of Captain Cook, our worthy great com- 
mander ! 

The great Sir Joseph Banks, and Doctor Solander ; 

Taey sail'd round the world, were perplex'd and were teas'd 

too, 
To find out a place where the King might send tc his thieves" 

to! 
So Britons fill up bumpers, rejoice now and all sing, 
What " a glorious set of thieves " we shall have from their 

offspring. Bow, wow. 

Thus also Peter Pindar satirizes the learned Sir 
Joseph's pursuits: — 

Sir Joseph, fav'rite of great queens and kings, 
Whose wisdom weed and insect hunter sings ; 

And ladies fair applaud, with smile so dimpling ; 
Went forth one day, amidst the laughing fields, 
Where nature such exhaustless treasure yields, 

A simpling ! 
It happen'd on the self-same morn so bright, 
The nimble pupils of Sir Sampson Wright,* 
A simpling, too, for plants, called thieves, proceeded; 
Of which the nation's field should oft be weeded. 
' Sirs, I'm no highwayman,' exclaim' d the knight,— 
■ No — there,' rejoin'd the runners, ' you are right, 

A footpad only — Yes, we know your trade — 
Yes, you're a pretty babe of grace ; 
We want no proofs, old codger, but your face ; 

So come along with us, old blade.' 
Now to the 'squire familiar bow'd the knight, 
Who knew Sir Joseph at first sight, — 

What's strongly mark'd, is quickly known again — 
And with a pause that awe and dread commanded, 
The thief-takers severely reprimanded, 

For thus mistaking gentlemen. 

* One of the then police- magistrates at Bow-Street-Office 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 13 

Then on their knuckle* rais'd their hands and eyei, 
And crav'd Sir Joseph's pardon for belief, 

That when they jump'd upon him by surprise, 
They took so great a gemman for a thief, 

Hoping to mind th' advice of godly books, 
Viz. not to judge of people by their looks. 

But a truce to Peter and his muse, as the coach 
is arrived at 

HOUNSLOW, (9 m. 3 f.) a town of little note; 
and, although time is afforded the traveller to exercise 
his mind while the horses are changing, and " coachy " 
is taking his little whet, yet no objects present them- 
selves worthy of his immediate attention. But, not- 
withstanding, there are several good seats contiguous 
to Hounslow belonging to Mrs. Fullerton; Whitton- 
Place, George Gostling, Esq. . Here is also Whitton- 
Park, so justly celebrated for its fine cedars of Leba- 
non; and the residences also of Sir Benjamin Hob- 
house; Samuel Prime, and James Campbell, Esqrs. 
On leaving the town, on the left, is the great 
road to the Land's End, of 290 miles. On crossing 
the Heath, once of such u dread import," (a few years 
since either by day or night,) and so very fruitful to 
the pages of the Newgate Calendar, from its numerous 
collectors, (otherwise highwaymen,) all the palpitations 
of the heart, shiverings, and cold sweats, which for- 
merly operated upon the delicate feelings of the female 
passengers, under the apprehension of being robbed 
every instant, and the anxieties and state of suspense 
experienced by the more courageous male travellers, 
" whistling aloud, like the school-boy, to keep their 
courage up," are now completely removed, and 
Hounslow-Heath has become almost as safe as riding 
through St. James's Park. This change, perhaps, is 



14 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

not owing to an increase of horse and foot patroles, 
exertions of the police-officers, or well-armed guards 
to most of the stage-coaches, but to be attributed to 
the change, which has taken place in committing de- 
predations upon the public, with less hazard to the 
robber for his personal safety. The following original 
anecdote may prove acceptable, concerning one of 
those " high spirits " of the school of crime, a noted 
highwayman upon the above Heath, a great collector, 
and a perfect Macheath in real life, surrounded by 
doating mistresses, yet ultimately was betrayed or 
u sold " to the officers of justice by a favourite 
dulcinea, and, at length, received sentence of death, 
but whose punishment was commuted for transporta- 
tion for life. Ned Halloran, possessing principles 
that would have reflected credit on a better cause — 
acting up to the strictest scale of honour in every 
private transaction of his life; yet even his conviction, 
he asserted, could not convince his mind, that he had 
been guilty of a crime, in taking from those persons 
who had plenty of property, in order to relieve him- 
self who had none. Such was the character of this 
robber. Upon one of his collecting days on the above 
Heath, he stopped a goldsmith and refiner, a man of 
considerable property and importance in the City of 
London, and took from him, without any resistance, 
his cash, gold watch, chain, and seals, and also his 
silver knee and shoe-buckles, and very politely wished 
the refiner a good morning. Ned, thinking it was all 
right and safe, after a small circuitous route over the 
Heath, put up his horse at an inn to take refreshment; 
bis repast being ended, and just as he was ready to 
mount his horse, the refiner rode into the yard, but 
did not recognize him. Halloran left the inn with- 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 15 

out the slightest agitation ; and, in the course of a few 
days afterwards, strange to say, but strictly true, Ned, 
in his own person, offered the above stolen articles to 
the refiner upon his counter ; when the latter looked 
up at Halloran, without betraying any appearance of 
recollection, and immediately saw the man who had 
robbed him upon Hounslow-Heath; yet the refiner, 
with the utmost coolness and business-like manner, 
paid him the worth of them, and Halloran retired 
from the shop in safety. It is thus accounted for. 
This refiner, it seems, was what the thieves term a 
fence;* and Ned must have been directed to his shop 
by some of his own fraternity; and, therefore, the 
refiner pocketed the affront, for fear if any noise had 
been made upon the subject, his own iniquitous prac- 
tices might have been discovered. It is a positive 
fact, that the above refiner, in a few years after this 
transaction, put a period to his existence, to avoid the 
disgrace of a public trial for forging the Goldsmiths* 
Company's mark, to pass the articles he sold as gold. 
The countenances of both the thief and the receiver, 
upon recognizing each other, and yet each, with the 
utmost coolness, keeping the secret, would have been 
a fine subject for the pencil of a Hogarth. The 
above is one among the numerous, singular circum- 
stances that occur in London, without ever obtaining 
publicity. Bu£ the highwayman, footpad, and house- 
breaker, are now, in a great degree, lost sight of in 
the passers of forged bank-notes, as running a less 
risk of detection; and the facilities of obtaining 
these notes are so easy, that they are bought and sold 
with as much regularity as any articles of trade. One 

* A receiver of stolen goods. 



16 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

decided proof of the vast extent of this species of 
crime is, the Solicitor of the Bank of England obtains 
o£20,000 per annum as the price of his prosecutions. 
The long heath is now passed, and the traveller finds 
himself at 

CRANFORD-BRIDGE, (12 m. 2 f.) About half 
a mile distant from this bridge stands Cranford-Park, 
the seat of the Countess (relict of the late Earl) 
Berkeley, rendered so interestingly conspicuous in the 
fashionable world upon the death of the above noble- 
man, in consequence of the interference of the House 
of Lords to protect their privileges of bestowing the 
title upon the legal heir. The right of succession, it 
should seem, operated very much upon the paternal 
feelings of the Earl previous to his demise ; and, not- 
withstanding the heavy forfeiture of estates and penal- 
ties laid upon any one of the family by his will, for- 
mally attested, who should attempt to disturb the 
right of his eldest son to enjoy the title, &c. it was, 
after a most minute, laborious, and voluminous, inves- 
tigation, by the peers of the realm, (which involved 
rather an unpleasant expose of the domestic circum- 
stances of this noble and ancient family,) finally deter- 
mined, that the youngest son (of five) was the truly 
legal inheritor to the title and Berkeley estates. It 
is, however, worthy of remark, that, upon the same 
evening this decision of the House of Lords was 
made public, Colonel Berkeley (the hitherto presumed 
heir) received this change in his fortune with the 
utmost composure. He lost no time in calling his 
numerous retinue together, and taking his youngest 
brother by the hand, addressed them, saying, " This 
is Earl Berkeley— and my designation, in future, only 
Colonel." The " law," it is true, has been complied 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 17 

with in removing the title; but, it appears, that the 
brotherly affection existing between the sons, the 
anxiety to pay attention to the will of their deceased 
parent, (whose feelings upon so delicate a question 
were of the most praiseworthy and laudable descrip- 
tion, originating from the real impulse of nature,) that 
the " property " has not been disturbed. 

SIMPSON-GREEN, (13 m. 4 f.) Here are only 
a few straggling houses and the sign of the Magpies ; 
but, the country on both sides of the traveller is 
pleasant, though nothing of any importance is to be 
seen, till he arrives at 

LONGFORD, (15 m.) At a small distance on 
the left of the road are the seats of Sir Edwin 
Francis Stanhope and Sir John Gibbons, Barts. and 
about two miles on the right, at West Drayton, is the 
residence of Fyshe De Burgh, Esq. The old road, 
that runs on the left, makes to the Thames ; but the 
new one, on the right, goes to Bushy-Park. The 
recollection of this latter place is not particularly 
important from its being the splendid retreat of roy- 
alty, and the abode of the Duke of Clarence; but, it 
is truly conspicuous in being once the residence of the 
late generous, amiable, but unfortunate, Mrs. Jordan ; 
and cannot fail in exciting some of the most feeling 
sensations in the mind of the traveller, at the vicissi- 
tudes of her interesting career, and the melancholy 
period of existence experienced by this highly-gifted 
female. 



Praising what is lost, 
Makes the remembrance more dear. Shakspeare. 



c 2 



18 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

'Tis past — and to a foreign grave consign'd 

That form, that face, which gave so much delight, 

No more that voice will charm where sweetness join'd, 
Nor Thespian boast a gem again so bright. 

For she had power to charm the dullest soul, 

On ev'ry action rapt attention hung ; 
Our smiles, our tears, alike she could controul, 

For eloquence flow'd matchless from her tongue. 

In Cora, sweetly did she play her part ! 

No word, no action, was with her at strife, 
Her feelings flow'd spontaneous from the heart, 

The anxious mother and the tender wife. 

In Angela the various traits portray'd— ■ 
How fine the innocence and firmness join, 

The duteous daughter and the love-sick maid, 
She did in turn, most beautifully, combine. 

Her talents rose in Peggy's playful form — 
Rosalind — Viola — and Pickle too; 

Each character how well she did adorn, 
And to her mem'ry ev'ry praise is due ! 

She that was once to Royalty a friend — 
Now in a foreign earth she rests her head ; 

Her on whose smiles once numbers did depend, 
Yet no companion cheer'd her dying-bed ! 

She that had known a Mother's tender name, 
In her last moments no fond child was near, 

From strangers she did those attentions claim, 
And strangers gave the tribute of a tear ! 

It seems the tale of fiction to relate, 

This once great Actress liv'd to be unknown, 

But such, alas ! was found her wayward fate, 
That in the hour of death all friends were flown. 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 19 

Her virtues many — eeek not her faults to view, 
AYhate'er they were they're buried in her bier — 

This humble tribute to her merit's due, 

And Mem'r y still will give her name — a tear ! 

An impenetrable veil, it seems, has hitherto obscu- 
red the real cause of the separation of this superior 
female from the protection of the Duke of Clarence, 
after being the mother of ten children, and many of 
whom having been introduced to the Queen and other 
branches of the Royal Family : but suffice, however 
afflicting to relate, she that had been the delight of the 
age in which she lived — justly acknowledged the prop 
of Thalia, and the mirror of the stage; and after 
participating in the magnificence and splendour attach- 
ed, as it were, in her being looked upon as the very 
idolatry of royalty, (although, in truth, principally 
supported by her own unrivalled talents,) was, at 
length, suffered to end her life in an obscure lodging in 
Paris, and privately interred (scarcely without an at- 
tendant) in the cemetry of St. Cloud, July 3, 1816. 
Two spirited and feeling Englishmen, it is said, upon 
hearing of the circumstance, and out of grateful remem- 
brance from the pleasure they had derived from her 
merits as an actress, had a stone erected to her 
memory, with the following inscription : — 

Dorothea Jordan, quae multos annos, Londini inque 
aliis Britanniae urbibus, scenam egregie ornavit, lepore 
Comico, vocis suavitate, puellarum hilarium, alternis-que 
sexus moribus habitu imitandis, nulli secunda : ad exercen- 
dam earn qua tarn feliciter versata est, artem, ultres egendium 
adversas sublivaret, nemo promptior. E vita exiit 3tio nonas 
Julii 1816, annos nata 50. Meraentote lugete. 

The traveller, who seems lost in a complete reverie, 
that out of the numerous remembrances in Westmin- 



20 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

ster-Abbey, one small niche could not have been 
found to recognize the loss of such unbounded talents 
and real worth, if not to prevent from total oblivion 
one of the greatest ornaments of the British stage, is, 
at length, awakened from the thoughts of neglect and 
ingratitude, by his entering into Buckinghamshire, and 
arriving at 

COLNBROOK, (16 m. 6 f.) On the right is 
Ritchings-Park, belonging to the Right Hon. John 
Sullivan ; and, on the left stands Horton-House. 

LANGLEY-BROOM, (18 m. 2 f.) On the left of 
which is Ditton-Park, the seat of Lord Montague ; 
and, on the right, that of Sir R. B. Harvey, known 
as Langley-Park. 

TETS WORTH-WATER, (19 m. 2 f.) is of no in- 
terest, till the traveller arrives at 

SLOUGH, (20 m. 4 f.) This place is rather attrac- 
tive in being the residence of the great astronomer, 
Sir William Herschell. The superior talents exhibited 
by Sir William, and the discoveries he has made in 
the grand and sublime science of astronomy, is a de- 
cided proof what perfection may be attained by any 
individual, supported by industry and application; 
and, as an addition to his character, it seems, Sir 
William Herschell is entirely self-taught. In this 

neighbourhood are also the seats of H. Daw, 

Edwards, and J. Penn, Esqrs. and Capt. Vyse. 

SALT-HILL, (21 m. 2 f.) From this place, on the 
left, is a fine view of Windsor-Castle, rendered 
more interesting and attractive in being the resi- 
dence of our revered and venerable monarch, George 
III. whose length of reign is without parallel; and, 
at the period of writing this paragraph, (November 
the 10th, 4 1818), it is worthy of remark, he has been 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 21 

King of England upwards of fifty-eight years — the 
queen in existence — twelve sons and daughters living, 
and the youngest child of their majesties more than 
forty years of age. In his retreat from the public eye, 
it may be truly observed, 

Yes, we have lost a father ! 

The greatest blessing heaven bestows on mortals, 
And, seldom found amidst these wilds of time, 
A good, a worthy King ! 

Here is also a fine prospect of Eton-College. Con- 
tiguous to Slough and Salt-Hill are numerous resi- 
dences, among which will be found those of the 
Marchioness of Thomond; Cranbo urn-Lodge, late 

Nash, Esq. Clewer-Spire ; Sophia-Farm, 

Dawson, Esq. and the Earl of Harcourt's, at St. 
Leonard's Hill. Also Farnham Royal Church; Brit- 
well-House, Hon. George Irby; a view of Burnham 
church and village ; Huntercombe, J. T. Atkyns, Esq. 
the Willows, late H. T. Ward, Esq. and Dropmore- 
Hill, the seat of that distinguished and profound 
statesman, Lord Grenville., 

MAIDENHEAD-BRIDGE, (25 m. 2 f.) is a light 
and elegant erection; and, the exterior of the inns 
have an imposing appearance, from the way in which 
they are decorated with flowers. This part of the 
country should seem very attractive to the nobility 
and gentry, from the various seats with which it is 
surrounded. On the right, at Taplow, is Lord Rivers- 
dale, P. Grenfell, Esq. and Lady Courtenay. On the 
hill, the Countess of Orkney ; Taplow-Lodge and 
Monkey-Island, belonging to P. C. Bruce, Esq. near 
to which are, Water Oakley, ■ ■ Harford, Esq. 

Filbert, C. Fuller, Esq. The Retreat, late Lady 
Bowyer ; and one mile, on the right, the beautiful 



22 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

woods of the Countess of Orkney are to be seen. 
Also Hedsor, Lord Boston ; on the left, at some dis- 
tance, is Dorney-Court, Sir C. H. Palmer, Bart. 
Bray wick-Lodge, Sir J. W. Waller, Bart. ; and Can- 
non-Hill, C. S. Murray, Esq. In the neighbourhood 
of the above, are the residences of B. Witts, Esq. 
Lady Pocock, and Sir William Heme. 

MAIDENHEAD, (26 m.) a small corporate town, 
containing 167 houses, and about 800 inhabitants, 
near to which are the following seats : on the left 

is Ives-House, belonging to Wilson, Esq. and, 

on the right, Hall-Place, Sir W. East, Bart.; and 
Bisham-Abbey, George Vansittart, Esq. 

MAIDENHEAD-THICKET, (28 m.) The road 
about this place is interesting, and well sprinkled with 
delightful residences. On the left is Hey wood-Lodge, 
» Sawyer, Esq. and the spire of Shottesbrook- 

Church is to be seen, which enlivens the prospect. 
Here are also the seats of A. Vansittart, Esq. Pinke 
Lee, Esq. Woolley-Hall, late Rev. Mr. Palmer, and 
Stubbins, belonging to Lady Dorchester. 

KILN-GREEN, (31m.) On the right is the 
residence of Henry Fonnereau, Esq. and, on the left, 
Scarlet, Lee Perrott, Esq. 

HARE-HATCH, (32 m.) The traveller would 
scarcely ask the name of these little places, were it 
not for the seats which are contiguous to them. On 
the right is Bear-Place, Sir Morris Ximenes, and 

Dalton, Esq. and, on the left, are the 

residences of J. Montagu, Esq. and Ruscombe-House, 
■ Blake, Esq. 

TWYFORD, (33 m. 6 f.) About a mile distant on 
the right you view Shiplake-Hill, the seat of Mrs. 
Newell; and on the left, Stanlake, belonging to Sir 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 23 

N. Dukenfield, Bart. The road also, for five miles, is 
by no means uninteresting, and among the following 
retreats from the busy world, is found the residence 
of that learned civilian, the Right Hon. Sir William 
Scott, brother to the Lord Chancellor. Both of these 
gentlemen, from their splendid talents and industry, 
have risen to the very high offices they fill in the 
government, and may be said to have been the only 
architects of their great fortunes and well-deserved 
fame. Here is also Woodley-Lodge, belonging to J. 
Wheeble, Esq.; Sunning, R. Palmer, Esq.; and 
Cavesham-House, the property of Major Marsack. 

READING, (38 m. 7 f.) is a corporate town of 
considerable interest and extent. It contains numerous 
excellent buildings, some good streets, several churches, 
and a theatre. The assizes are also held here. The 
inhabitants are calculated at about 11,000, and the 
number of the houses between 2 and 3,000. A great 
deal of business is carried on in Reading. About half 
a mile on the left stands Coley-Park, the seat of Berke- 
ley Monck, Esq.; and, further on the right, is Pro- 
spect-Hill, J. Liebemod, Esq. 

CALCOT-GREEN, (41m. 4 f.) on the right of 
which is Calcot-Park, the seat of J. Blagrave, Esq. ; 
and at a small distance is Tyler's Parsonage, the resi- 
dence of the Rev. Dr. Routh. 

THEAL, (43 m. 5 f.) On the left hand is Sulhamp- 
stead, the seat of William Thoytes, Esq. and Engle- 
field-House, about a mile on the right, belonging to 
Richard Benyon, Esq. ; and further on is Beenham- 
house, the property of the Rev. J. Bostock. 

WOOLHAMPTON, (49 m. 1 f.) contiguous to this 
place are the following seats : on the left is Padworth- 
house, R. Clark, Esq.; also Aldermaston-honse and 



24 DESqRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

park, W. Congreve, Esq.; and Wing-house, late W. 
Morant, Esq. 

THATCHAM, (52 m. 6 f.) Almost a solitary pub- 
lic house, the King's Head, merely to refresh the 
waggoner, forms the principal feature of this place. 

SPEENHAMLAND, (55 m. 6 f.) On the right of 
which is Shaw-Place, the seat of Sir Joseph Andrews, 
Bart. Immediately adjoining Speenhamland is 

NEWBURY, (55 m. 7 f.) a corporate town.— 
The buildings are old and irregular, and it contains no 
feature of any particular interest. Its inhabitants are 
estimated at 5000; but the houses do not exceed 
1100. Newbury is considered about the half-way 
to Bath ; and some of the coaches make a short stay 
here to dine; indeed the time allowed for this neces- 
sary refreshment is so short, that the traveller has 
scarcely swallowed a few mouthfuls, w r hen he is inter- 
rupted by the coachman that " all is ready, 1 ' and he 
must either go without his belly-full, or stand a chance 
of choking himself by bolting the remainder of his 
food, if he means to make any thing like a dinner, in 
order to accommodate the coachman. This may be 
deemed one of the " miseries of travelling ;" and it 
should almost seem that coachy has a secret under- 
standing with " mine host" to turn these things to 
good account. This is one of the grievances which 
travellers in general ought to resist : and the proprie- 
tors of stage-coaches should be compelled to make a 
public statement in their bills that they allow a suffi- 
cient reasonable time for passengers to enjoy a com- 
fortable meal upon the road. 

SPEEN (56 m. 6f.) is surrounded both on the 
right and left with a variety of seats, belonging to the 
following ladies : Mrs. Wasey ; Mrs. Craven ; Miss 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 25 

Hulberts; and Mrs. S. Quintins ; Donnington, or 
Chaucer's Grove, belonging to John Bebb, Esq. and 
Donnington Castle-House, Col. Stead. Also the resi- 
dences of F. C. Parry, Esq. and the Rev. G. Wyld : 
but the most prominent and attractive to the mind of 
the traveller is Goldvv all-Hall, the seat of George 
Canning, Esq. 

BENIIAM-PARK, (57 m. 5 f.) the seat of An- 
thony Bacon, Esq. and at the end of which is Hem- 
stead-Lodge, belonging to the Earl of Craven. This 
nobleman elevated to the rank of his countess, Miss 
Brunton, belonging to Covent-Garden-Theatre, a lady 
of great personal beauty and attractions, and possess- 
ing considerable theatrical talents. About three miles 
on the right is Welford-Park, belonging to the Rev. 
John Robinson. 

HALFWAY-HOUSE, (59 m. 5 f.) within one 
mile and a half of this place, on the left, is Barton- 
Court, the 9eat of C. Dundas, Esq. and at a little 

distance is Wallingtons, Mackaness, Esq. ; 

and Inglewood-House, the residence of Mrs. Shaw. 

HUNGERFORD (64 m. 1 f.) has to boast of one 
good broad street, a capacious market-house, a neat 
church, and some excellent inns. It is, however, a 
small town, containing not more than 400 houses; 
and whose inhabitants do not exceed 2000 souls. 
Most of the stage-coaches change horses at Hunger- 
ford ; and, if the traveller should prove thirsty, the 
" home-brewed " of this place is really excellent ; 
and its character for soundness of quality, pleasant- 
ness of taste, and as good as was " e'er tipt o'er the 
tongue," has long been established for many miles 
round the country. Numerous gentlemen's seats are 
also contiguous to this town. Within one mile, on 



26 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

the left, is Hungerford-Park, the residence of John 
Willis, Esq.; and, on the right, at Denford, W. Hal- 
let, Esq. Near the bridge is Chilton-Lodge, John 
Pearce, Esq.; Littlecott-Park, Gen. Leyborne Pop- 
ham ; a newly-erected fine mansion, C. Mallett, Esq. 
and Standon-Park, S. Bevan, Esq. A military depot 
has been established in this neighbourhood. But the 
most important circumstance connected with Hunger- 
ford is Ramsbury- Manor- House, belonging to Sir 
Francis Burdett, Bart, one of the most distinguished 
public characters of England, and the avowed friend 
of liberty, the constitution, and the oppressed subject. 
His parliamentary life abounds with interest. Three 
times returned for Westminster in the true purity of 
election; bat yet he has numerous opponents, who 
hold his principles as too violent. 

He who contends for freedom 
Can ne'er be justly deem'd his sov'reign's foe ; 
No, 'tis the wretch that tempts him to subvert it, 
The soothing slave, the traitor in the bosom, 
Who best deserves that name ; he is a worm 
That eats out all the happiness of kingdoms. 

FROXFIELD, (66 m. 7 f.) a small place, consisting 
only of a few straggling houses, but nevertheless en- 
titled to some import, from its range of nice alms- 
houses, founded by the Duchess of Somerset, for the 
widows of clergymen ; and, about four miles from the 
main road, is Tottenham-Park, belonging to the Earl 
of Aylesbury. 

MARLBOROUGH-FOREST, (71 m. 1 f.) The 
road here is delightfully picturesque for two or three 
miles, and the fine clusters of trees in this forest rise 
proudly to the eye of the traveller. On the left is 
Severnake-Lodge, Earl of Aylesbury. 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 27 

MARLBOROUGH, (74 m. 1 f . ) a respectable 
corporate town, containing nearly 500 houses, and 
about 3000 inhabitants. On the left, through the 
town, is seen a large mansion, formerly the residence 
of the Duke of Somerset, but now metamorphosed 
into the Castle Inn : and, at no great distance from 
which, is the figure of a white horse, cut remarkably 
well out of the grass, which has a good effect, whose 
symmetry, taking its dimensions into the scale of 
merit, is far above mediocrity ; but it sustains a con- 
siderable drawback, when it is found to be a mere 
copy of the original at Cherrill, more of which will 
be mentioned hereafter : it has however a handsomer 
neck. Within a mile and a half from Marlborough, 
on the right, is Rockley-House, the Hon. Genlt. 
John. 

MANTON, (75 m. 4 f.) Of no interest whatever 
to the inquisitive traveller. 

FIFIELD, (76 m. 6 f.) Of the same description. 

OVERTON, (77 m. 7 f.) On the left of this 
place, about three-quarters of a mile, is Lockridge- 
House, the residence of J. Benton, Esq. and Kennet- 
Hall, belonging to Matthews, Esq. 

WEST KENNET, (79 m. 2 f.) The White Hart 
here, which stands almost alone, excepting a straggling 
farm-house or two, is famed for selling " a cup of 
good stingo." 

Here the poor waggoner, who (broil' d with heat 
And chok'd with dust) seeking the cool retreat 
Of tempting pot-house, bord'rmg on the road 
To slake his thirst with nut-brown aie so good. 

It is the crack of the beverage in tins part of the 
country : indeed it is in such high repute, that the 
farmers and coachmen along the road would think it 



2-8 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

a positive libel upon their want of taste to pass by the 
White Hart, at West Kennet, without drinking the 
health of the " old hostess," who has long had the 
merit of producing this wholesome liquid. It is also 
distinguished for a remarkable barrow, about half a 
mile distant on the right of Silbury-Hill ; a little fur- 
ther is to be seen, at Averbury, the antique and archi- 
tectural ruins of a large Druid's te ; pie. If the tra- 
veller could alight to view this ruin, it would amply 
repay him for his curiosity. Averbury-House is the 
residence of Jones, Esq. 

SILBURY-HILL, (80 m.) This is a fine open 
part of the country, and nothing of cultivation is 
neglected. 

BECKHAMPTON-INN, (80 m. 6 f.) only con- 
spicuous as a place of refreshment, and its delightful 
ride across the downs to 

CHERRILL, (83 m. 7 f.) This place is a great 
object of attraction to the traveller, from the large 
White Horse cut out of the turf, upon a hill of chalky 
substance, and viewed as a distinguished land-mark. 
The above horse is remarkably well executed, and its 
colossal size may be seen with the greatest ease at the 
distance of several miles. The tail, it is said, mea- 
sures fifteen yards; and from its extremity to the 
head, it must be an expert flinger of a stone to reach 
it. When close to the figure, it has nothing like the 
appearance of ahorse. It occasions considerable bet- 
ting amongst the passengers in the different stage-coaches 
who daily pass by it. The original idea, and merit of 
cutting it out, belonged to one Christopher Alsop, 
a surgeon, at Calne; and, added to his well- 
earned reputation as a medical man, he was a most 
ingenious mechanic. The memory of this person is 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 29 

much revered in the neighbourhood of Came, from 
his benevolent disposition and Christian-like traits, 
which adorned his character. Mr. Alsop came to 
Calne a journeyman apothecary, but, in the course of 
a few short years, he realized a most ample fortune. 
He was a man of much literary taste ; complete mas- 
ter of mechanics ; and a superior maker of telescopes. 
He never refused the call of the unfortunate in the 
hour of distress and trouble; and was known, for many 
years after he had retired from business, to go many 
miles to attend the poor at his own expense. His 
death was a great loss to the inhabitants of Calne 
and neighbourhood. Whether George Colman, in 
his researches after real characters, had in his eye 
Mr. Alsop, when he penned the following lines, we 
cannot ascertain, but they may be considered to apply 
to him : — 

His fame fall six miles round the country ran; 

In short, in reputation he was solus ; 
All the old women call'd him a fine man, 

His name was Bolus. 

Benjamin Bolus, though in trade, 
Which oftentimes will genius fetter, 

Read works of learning, it is said, 
And cultivated the Belles Lettres. 

On the completion of the above horse, it was cele- 
brated on the spot by a sort of fair, which was kept 
up on a certain day in every year; but latterly it has 
been given up. About half a mile further, on the 
right from the road, is Compton-Bassett-House, the 
seat of Mrs. Heneage; and, on the left, is Blackland- 
House, the residence of John Merewether, Esq. 

QUEMERFORD-BRIDGE (86 m. 1 f.) leads on to 

d 2 



30 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

CALNE, (87 m.) which possesses an excellent 
market-house, a large inn, and one tolerable street. 
It contains about 800 houses ; and its inhabitants at 
near 4000. On the left is the Castle-House, the 
residence of Mrs. Bendry. It is curious to ob- 
serve numerous little children, without shoes or stock- 
ings, about here upon the road, running alongside 
the coach like race-horses, and keeping it up for a 
considerable distance, in hopes to get a few halfpence 
from the passengers, — the girls, keeping tight hold of 
their petticoats, and tumbling over head and heels, 
with the greatest ease and agility. These children 
have so much daily practice in this sort of exercise, 
that few, if any, of the celebrated pedestrians could 
beat them for a short distance. Immediately on quit- 
ting the coach, they generally lay themselves down in 
the road, till another stage appears in sight, and so 
on till the end of the day. 

STUDLEY, (89 m. 6 f.) Through this place, on 
the left, is Bowood, the magnificent residence 
of the Marquis of Lansdowne. Considerable taste 
and elegance are to be discovered in these venerable 
shades, formed under the immediate direction of the 
first Marquis. The mansion is also distinguished for 
its union of grandeur and simplicity. If the paint- 
ings have not to boast of being a collection of the 
first ancient masters, — the library is composed of the 
choicest and most valuable articles of literature. The 
present Marquis is also prominent for his attention to 
the polite arts. The political career of the above 
young Chancellor of the Exchequer, although short, 
will never be forgotten by the lovers of humanity, in 
being connected with an administration, that cancel- 
led all its errors, by an abolition of that disgraceful 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 31 

traffic, denominated the Slave Trade; and also, in 
making this traffic felony by law, and punished as a 
crime against the welfare and character of society in 
general. 

DERRY-HILL, (90 m. 1 f.) The country about 
here is not only pleasant and picturesque, but well 
cultivated. 

CHIPPENHAM (92 m. 6 f.) is a corporate town, 
containing two or three capacious and good inns, 
about 800 houses, of antique look; and the inhabi- 
tants are estimated at between 3 and 4000 persons. 
The passenger passes through it without any particular 
interest. On the left, at a small distance from 
the town, is Ivy-House, the residence of Robert 
Humphreys, Esq. For five miles the road produces 
very few objects to attract the attention of the tra- 
veller, excepting the safety of his seat, from the in- 
cessant jolting, in fact, almost jumping, the stage 
experiences upon this stony road, till he arrives at the 
small town of 

PICKWICK, (97 m.) A degree of importance is 
attached to this small place, from its contiguity to 
Corsham-House, (1 m.) the celebrated seat of Paul 
Cobb Methuen, Esq. whose superb collection of 
paintings are the theme and admiration of every 
visitor ; but more of this hereafter, in its proper place. 
On the right of Pickwick stands Kartham-Park, 
the seat of Jay, Esq. and Pickwick-Lodge, be- 
longing to Caleb Dickenson, Esq. The prospects 
along the road delightfully increase, till the passenger 
arrives at 

BOX, (99 m. 6 f.) This is altogether a pretty inte- 
resting village, something after the descriptive style of 
Goldsmith: 



32 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain, 

Where health and plenty cheer'd the labouring swain. 

The cleanness of the houses, which are all made of 
free (or Bath) stone; a neat little church, built of the 
same materials, adds to the interest of the scene — 
the useful farrier's shed — the stocks for the unruly, 
erected more in terrorem, perhaps, than of any mate- 
rial service — the appearance of two small inns, 
of an inviting character — in short, Box is truly com- 
pact, and may be viewed as no bad prelude to the 
" great Bath. 7 ' About a mile on the right is Shock- 
erwick, the seat of John Wiltshire, Esq. The mind 
of the traveller is tolerably well occupied till he arrives 
at 

BATH-EASTON, (103 m. 2 f.) This is a small 
town, of one tolerable street in length, and the ap- 
pearance of the houses is very neat and clean. In 
this neighbourhood is Bailbrook-Lodge, a recent esta- 
blishment formed for the reception of decayed ladies 
of respectability and high rank, under the patronage and 
sanction of her late Majesty. Also Bath-easton- Villa, 
once the residence of Sir John Millar. This seat was 
distinguished for the weekly parties of his lady, famed 
for their poetic productions. It is now the residence 
of Dr. Broadbelt. On the left is Hampton-House, 
the seat of G. Allen, Esq. and Lambridge-House, the 
residence of Dr. Haygarth. Several other gentlemen's 
seats are contiguous to Bath-easton, and the pro- / 
spects and variety of subjects along the road inte- 
rest the traveller, till he descends the hill adjoining 
to Walcot. 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 33 

ENTRANCE TO 

BATH 

FROM THE LONDON ROAD. 



From Lambridge, through Grosvenor- Place — Beaufort- 
Buildings — Worcester- Terrace — Percy -Place-— 
Kensington-Place — (Kensington-Chapel) — Pic- 
cadilly — Lower East Hayes — Hanover- Place, 
Brunswick - Street — York- Place — Iron-House, 
Dover, and Bedford-Streets — Albemarle-Buildings 
— Myrtle-Place — Long- Acre — Walcot Buildings, 
Terrace, andParade — (W alcot-Ch apel) — Nelson 
and Margaret Places — London-Street — Somerset- 
Strict — Vineyards — Paragon-Buildings— Bladud - 
Buildings — York- Buildings — to the York-Hotel. 

To the most indifferent traveller, who scarcely 
" reads as he runs;" or, perhaps, labouring under 
the mental debility of ennui— THE ENTRANCE 
TO BATH cannot fail in removing this frigid apathy, 
and awaken his feelings to the numerous interesting 
objects which, in rapid succession, present themselves 
to his notice : but, to the admirers of Nature and 
Art, and particularly to the lovers of taste and ele- 
gance, 

This ancient city, 
How wanton sits she, amidst Nature's smiles ! 
Nor from her highest turret has to view 
But golden landscapes and luxuriant scenes: 

it rises with peculiar grandeur ; also, its well distri- 
buted buildings, and amphitheatric arrangement of 



34 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

crescents, splendid seats, &c. surrounded by the lofty 
hills of Claverton-Down on the left, ornamented with 
the look-out of the exterior of an antique castle, 
erected merely to connect the extensive opening, 
which stretches out with a view of Prior-Park and its 
superb mansion; while, on the right, the prospect is 
equally imposing, — the vast ascent of Lansdowne-Hill, 
Mount-Beacon, &c. &c. with the addition of some 
delightful and harmonizing scenery, produce a com- 
bination and an effect, that makes the tout ensemble 
operate upon the mind of the stranger, like a well- 
written preface to an important and superior work, 
stimulating him eagerly to peruse every page of it, till 
he becomes completely master of the subject. The 
appearance of BATH is altogether nouvclle, possess- 
ing a rank exclusively its own, and from its uniformity 
and classic architecture, has to boast of a decided 
Roman character. Nature, it should seem, has been 
truly liberal to this fertile valley ; and industry and 
talents, for nearly the last century, have scarcely suf- 
fered a moment to elapse, without studying to grace 
it with the advantages of Art, to make the above gift 
still more attractive. It is thus described by a modern 
artist : — a Viewed under the influence of a meridian 
sun, and through the medium of an unclouded atmo- 
sphere, Bath presents to the sight and imagination 
every thing that is united with the idea of perfect 
beauty; and so strong is the impression it makes upon 
the mind of almost all people at first sight, that the 
prepossession is converted into opinion; and when 
enveloped in those exhalations which arise from its 
salubrious springs, it is still called to mind in all its 
loveliness and attractions." * 

* Ibbetson. 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 35 

On descending the hill to Walcot, the traveller is 
actively engaged with the pleasing appearance which 
the suburbs of this fashionable city offer to his 
attention. Immediately upon his right is the new 
road, that turns off* to Oxford and Cheltenham. In 
proceeding onwards, a neat row of houses, called 
Lambridge, is to be seen, with long gardens, tastefully 
laid out in front of them. A few trees and hedges, 
also, intersect in various places the different 
houses, giving this part of it the air of an elegant 
village. Grosvenor-Place, on the left of the road, 
has a very magnificent appearance. It is a long 
range of high mansions, built upon a lofty terrace, 
enclosed with iron rails, with trees planted in the 
gravel-walk. In the centre of the place is a most ca- 
pacious building, with seven Ionic pillars in front, 
richly ornamented, intended for an inn; but which 
operates as a sort of drawback, from this hotel and 
part of the place being left in an unfinished state. 
Beaufort-Buildings, on the opposite road, is of an 
equally fashionable nature, with a broad pavement, 
carriage-way, and a large green promenade, also en- 
closed with iron rails. This prelude is prepossessing, 
and every progressive step strengthens the impression 
of the respectability and importance of Bath ; the 
eye not being familiar with the smoothness and creanv 
coloured appearance of the free-stone, which gives the 
houses such an air of cleanliness, altogether, that the 
effect is unusually cheerful. In passing through the 
turnpike, the appearances of houses on the hill, upon 
the right of the spectator, burst upon him very con#- 
spicuously. To the left of the gate is a very superior 
newly-erected row of houses, with very handsome 
long -paved fore-courts, enclosed with iron mils. Neil, 



36 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 

in succession, on the right, is Worcester-Terrace, and 
opposite to which is Percy-Place, both attractive 
situations, with walks and trees planted before the 
doors. Kensington-Place is also a terrace of some 
quality, with a carriage-way to it, the front enclosed 
with iron rails, and gates at each end of it. Opposite 
to this handsome range of dwellings are gardens; and, 
the houses upon the hill, rising above each other to a 
great height, cannot fail of interesting the attention 
of the passing stranger. On the left, is Kensington- 
Chapel, erected under the direction of Mr. Palmer, 
which is a neat building, in the modern style of archi- 
tecture. Within its walls, it is 62 feet in length, and 
42 feet 6 inches wide. It has also a recess, 21 feet 
by 12 feet 6 inches. To render it comfortable to in- 
valids, it has three fire-places. It was opened for 
Divine Service in 1795. On the right is Picca- 
dilly ; but, in comparison with this place in the Metro- 
polis, it is merely the same name. Lower East Hayes, 
Hanover- Place, Brunswick-Street, York-Place, Iron- 
House, Dover and Bedford Streets, are extremely 
short, and not above mediocrity. Here elegance 
gradually gives way to the minor habitations of little 
tradesmen and shopkeepers; and business now attracts 
the attention of the traveller. Albemarle- Buildings 
and Myrtle-Place are soon passed by ; and Long- Acre 
only possesses three small houses, but out of which, to 
have something like similarity to its namesake in Lon- 
don, two of them are coach-makers. Walcot Build- 
ings and Terrace are tolerably neat residences ; 
but in no competition to Walcot-Parade, which 
stands very high on the right of the road, with 
a paved promenade before it, commanding a good 
Prospect, and enclosed with iron railing. NelsQn's 



FROM LONDON TO BATH. 37 

Place and Margaret-Place are of no import. On 
turning into London-Street. Walcot New Chapel pre- 
sents itself. Of the religious kind, it is one of the 
most elegant chapels in Bath. The foundation-stone 
was laid on the 31st of March, 1815, and opened in 
May, 1816. In the front, it has an elegant portico of 
the Grecian Doric, and on the tablet is inscribed 
" Walcot-Chapel, 1815. " It has also on the frieze 
— " Df.o Sacrum/ 7 Divine service is performed 
three times every Sunday. It is 71 feet in length, and 
in width 52; and has a commodious school under- 
neath it, capable for instructing 800 children, with an 
excellent enclosed burying-ground. It is considered 
a great ornament to this part of the town. Walcot- 
Church is soon passed on the left, and Somerset-Street 
gone through with little interest, till the Vineyards, 
Paragon, and Bladud- Buildings, claim the notice of 
the spectator. There is more solidity than elegance 
in the appearance of these houses, although well built. 
The Vineyards has, however, to boast of a capacious 
place of worship, built by the late Countess of Hunting- 
don ; the interior of which is interesting. It has a hand- 
some gallery, and a good organ ; the singing at this 
chapel is mentioned with much respect. The prayers 
are read by a minister of the Church of England. 
York- Buildings now puts an end to the journey; and 
the traveller alights at the York- Hotel, to refresh him- 
self from the fatigue he has undergone, amuse himself 
with the attractions and comforts which this unrival- 
led tavern affords to all its visitors during their stay, 
and to prept T3 himself for future observations in his 
" Walks through Bath." 

The above Hotel is a fine building, and considered 
one of the largest and best inns in the kingdom, out of 



38 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY, &C. 

London. Its accommodations are in the first style of 
excellence, under the superintendence of Messrs. Lucas 
and Reilly. In the season it overflows with company 
of the highest rank in life. The dining-room is equal, if 
not superior, to the large room at the Crown and 
Anchor, in London. The suite of rooms correspond, 
and are furnished in the most superb manner. It has 
a subscription-club of the first respectability, deno- 
minated the " Friendly Brothers/' consisting of three 
knots, — The members are elected by ballot, and are 
free in London, Dublin, and Bath. The subscription 
is three guineas per annum ; but an additional charge 
is made for newspapers, publications, &c. Stages 
also set out from the York-House every day for Lon- 
don. This hotel is stored with a profusion of silver 
plate for the service of its visitors. A catch-club is 
likewise held here. 

Some to the York-Hotel resort, 

And drown their cares in sparkling port, 

For recreation seeking ; 
There talk of politics and dress — 
At length, grown weary of excess, 

Break up — when day is breaking. 

The Subscription-House also, at York-Buildings, is 
considered equal to any establishment of the kind in 
England. It is founded upon the plan of similar in- 
stitutions in London ; and the members are elected by 
ballot. The terms are six guineas and a half yearly. 
Newspapers, &c. are furnished in abundance for the 
use of tne subscribers. Mr. Knubly is the pro- 
prietor. 



EPITOME 

OF 

ANCIENT AND MODERN BATH 

A PRELUDE 

TO THE 

WALKS THROUGH THE CITY. 



Bath, to the most fastidious admirer of taste 
and elegance, can scarcely be refused the claim 
of being one of the most fashionable and supe- 
rior places of resort out of the Metropolis of 
England. Its first glance upon the mind of the 
visitor is truly enchanting; and upon a more 
minute investigation of its classic buildings, and 
picturesque scenery, it still fastens with rapture 
and delight upon the attentive spectator ; but 
even, when quite au fait with all its attrac- 
tions — comforts — cleanliness — its variety of 
amusements — its well-managed police — the re- 
storative quality of its baths — and the efficacy 
of its waters, which this Epitome of the Beau 
Monde affords, not only to the rich declining 
valetudinarian, but to the highest votary of 
fashion, Bath, taken for " all in all," almost 
bids defiance to meet with "its like again !" 



40 EPITOME 

Sweet Bath ! the liveliest city of the land, 
Where health and pleasure ramble hand in hand, 
Where smiling belles their earliest visit pay, 
And faded maids their lingering blooms delay ; 
Delightful scenes- of elegance and ease, 
Realms of the gay, where every sport can please ! 

In describing the above splendid city as it 
now is, it may be naturally expected, that in 
descanting upon the virtues of its springs, and 
the efficacy of its baths, it must be impossible 
to pass over its Ancient History without 
retaining some small portion of its traditionary 
account, however romantic and delusive it seems, 
if not altogether viewed, at the present period, as 
totally fabulous. This might prove a most ex- 
cellent subject for the investigation of modern 
students, who have a taste * for exploring the 
hidden stores of antiquity, and who are in want 
of employment to kill time ; but our " Walks 
through Bath" are of so extensive and diver- 
sified a nature, embracing such numerous, more 
profitable, and entertaining objects, that our 
limits prevent us from observing little more, in 
this place, than whether the City of Bath is of 
Roman or British origin the most learned his- 
torians are at a loss to decide, however anxious 

* (t Who on a purblind antiquarian's back, 
A founder'd, broken-winded hack, 

Rides out to find old farthings, nails, and bones — 
On darkest coins the brightest legends reads, 
On traceless copper sees imperial heads, 

And makes inscriptions older than the stones." 



©F BATH. 41 

the true Bathonian is to insist upon the latter 
as being the fact : but poetic invention, it should 
seem, has given to Bladud, the Sage, the first 
discoverer of the hot water, and made him the 
founder of the city. It has occupied the atten- 
tion of Leland and Selden : and the healing 
and restorative qualities of the Bath waters is 
thus asserted to have been first ascertained, from 
the following fragment of ancient records : 

" Bladud, eldest son of Lud Hudibras (then 
King of Britain, and the eighth from Brute), 
having spent eleven years at Athens in the study 
of the liberal arts and sciences, came home a 
loathsome leper, and for that reason was shut 
up, that he might not infect others. Impatient 
of his confinement, he chose rather a mean 
liberty than a royal restraint, and contriving his 
escape in disguise, went very remote from his 
father's court into an untravelled part of the 
country, and offered his service in any common 
employment, probably thinking he was less 
likely to be discovered under such reduced cir- 
cumstances than greater; he therefore entered 
into service at Swainswick, a small village three 
miles from that city, where his business (among 
other things) was to take care of pigs, which he 
was to drive from place to place, for their ad- 
vantage in feeding upon beech-masts, acorns, 
haws, &c. the hills thereabout then abounding 
with such trees, though now few of the two 
former remain : yet there is a hill close upon the 

E 2 



42 EPITOME 

south part of this city that still retains the name 
of Beechen-cliff, though there is scarcely a beech- 
tree left upon it. , 

" Here the rising sun, breaking through the 
clouds, first saluted the Royal herdsman with its 
comfortable beams; and while he was addressing 
himself to the glorious luminary, and praying 
that the wrath of heaven against him might be 
averted, part of the drove of pigs, as if seized 
with a frenzy, ran down the side of the hill into 
an alder-moor, till they reached the spot of 
ground where the hot springs of Bath now boil 
up, and from thence returned covered with 
black mud. The Prince being of a thoughtful 
turn, and very solicitous to find out the reason 
why the pigs that wallowed in the mire in the 
summer to cool themselves, should do the same 
in winter, observed them further, and following 
them down, at length perceived a steam to arise 
from the place where the swine wallowed, 
Making his way to it, he found it to be warm ; 
and this satisfied him, that for the benefit of this 
heat the pigs resorted thither, and after a while 
became whole and smooth from their foul scurfs 
and eruptions, by their rolling about in the 
warm mud. Upon this he considers within him- 
self why he should not receive the same benefit, 
by the same means ; he tries it, and succeeds ; 
and when he found himself cured of his leprosy, 
declared who he was. His master was not apt 
to believe him at first, but at length did, and 



OF BATH. 43 

went with him to court, where he was owned to 
be the king's son, and, after his father's death, 
succeeded him in the government; and then, in 
gratitude, made these baths/'* 

This singular and curious fragment thus 
concludes, — " that when these works were com- 
pleted, Bladud gave himself up to ingenious 
studies, which he pursued with so much assi- 
duity, that he at last invented wings to fly with ; 
but these not being quite so safe as the modern 
balloons, in one of his flights he unfortunately 
fell upon a pinnacle of a temple which he had 
founded to Miuerva, in Bath, tumbled instantly 
to the ground, and, to the great grief of his 
subjects, broke his neck, after a reign of twenty 
years." 

However romantic and fabulous the above 
account appears, till within these last eighty 
years, it seems, it was the positive belief and 
creed of every staunch native of Bath.f 

* But what is surprising, no mortal e'er view'd 

Any one of the physical gentlemen stew'd. 

From the day that king Bladud first found out these bogs, 

And thought them so good for himself and his hogs, 

Not one of the faculty ever has tried 

These excellent waters to cure his own hide ; 

Though many a skilful and learned physician, 

With candour, good sense, and profound erudition, 

Obliges the world with the fruits of his brain, 

Their nature and hidden effects to explain! 

t In the Rev. Mr. Warner's History of Bath, in allusion 
to the above circumstance, he has the following note : — 



44 EPITOME 

It appears probable then, that Bath owed its 
foundation to the Romans, and that it was erect- 
ed under the reign of Claudius, in the middle of 
the first century, who made a complete conquest 
of this part of Somersetshire. If the honour of 
discovering these springs did not belong to the 
Romans, a people so addicted to the use of the 
bath as an article of health and luxury, it is na- 
tural they would eagerly embrace the opportunity 
of indulging their favourite passion, which the 
thermal waters afforded with so much facility. 
It is certain they were well known to these war- 
riors during their residence in Britain, and so 
much indeed did they value the use of these hot 
springs, that they selected the low and narrow 
valley in which they rose, to build a town for 
their better security. This military station, for 
in those times it could scarcely be viewed in 
any other character, is thus described by Mr. 

u In a manuscript of Mr. Wood, the architect, communica- 
ted to me ten years ago, by the lie v. Dr. Ayscough, of the 
British Museum, the following certificate occurs, written at 
the foot of the above traditional account, seemingly drawn 
up to be signed by the principal inhabitants of Bath. ' We, 
whose names are hereunder written, natives of the city of 
Bath, having perused the above tradition, do think it very 
truly and faithfully related, and that there is but one material 
circumstance omitted in the whole stor}', which is, the grate- 
ful acknowledgment Bladud made to his master ; for, it is 
said, the king richly arrayed him, made him a knight, and 
gave him an estate to support him in all his dignity. As 
witness our hands, this 1st day of November, 1741.* " 



OF BATH. 45 

Warner, in his voluminous History of Bath: — 
" According to a form usually affected by the 
Romans on such occasions, it approached to a 
parallelogram ; swelling out on one side so as to 
describe an outline somewhat pentagonal, and 
stretching in length, from east to west, about 
400 yards, and 380 yards in the broadest part, 
from north to south. From subsequent disco- 
veries, these walls appear to have been twenty 
feet above ground in height; and, in thickness, 
sixteen feet at the base, and eight at the summit; 
strengthened with five towers, rising at the 
angles, and having four i portce i or entrances, 
facing the cardinal points, which were connected 
with each other by two grand streets, dividing 
the city into four parts, and intersecting each 
other at the centre." Some of the above walls 
alluded to are still standing, and denominated 
as the " Borough Wall:"* and, the Old City, 
it is said, was ten or twelve feet lower than the 
present one. It also received from the Romans 
the appropriate name of Jara Qs^a, or Warm 
Waters ; Thermae Sudatae, Aquae Culidae, Aquae 
Solis, or simply Balnea; while it was called 
Akemanrus Ceaster, i. e. the city of valetudina- 
rians, by the Saxons. The Britons designated 



* At the back of the Grove-Tavern, contiguous to the 
market, part of the old wall and the eastern gate are to be 
traced. 



46 EPITOME 

it as Caer Baden; or, the City of Bath: and 
Caer yn ennaint twymyn; or, the City of the 
Hot-Bath. 

There is little doubt but Bath was much dis- 
tinguished by its elegance in the time of the 
Romans; which may be collected from the ves- 
tiges of Roman magnificence, discovered in dig- 
ging at various times for the foundations of new 
buildings, as well as deciding that it has experi- 
enced various revolutions, and been the resi- 
dence of several kings. But our limits prevent us 
from following up their successions. Suffice to 
observe, that copper and brass coins of Nero, 
Adrian, Trajan, Antoninus, &c. have been found; 
also several portions of sculpture, particularly 
the head of a bronze statue, in fine preservation, 
in 1727, successively assigned to a statue of 
Apollo or Minerva. Several rough-hewn stone 
coffins, and pieces of coin of the Saxon kings, 
Roman baths, sudatories, &c. In 1790, in 
laying the foundation of the new Pump-Room, 
in Stall-Street, a great variety of Roman antiqui- 
ties were also discovered. Indeed, it is urged, 
that Apollo and Minerva were regarded as the 
patrons of these springs, and a magnificent tem- 
ple had once been erected on this spot. In 
1793, near Sidney-Place, a sepulchral altar was 
found, almost perfect. The whole of these 
antiquities, found at various periods, have been 
very properly deposited, by the Corporation, for 



OF BATH. 47 

the inspection of the curious, in a small build- 
ing* at the end of Bath-Street. 

To render this account of the ancient history 
of Bath as concise as possible, we shall con- 
clude by observing, that, after the Romans quit- 
ted Bath, it sunk in point of grandeur; but, in 
the time of the Saxons, it was a place of some 
note. Richard I. gave it a charter, and the im- 
munities of a free borough. 

As early as 26 Edw^ard I. Bath returned two 
members to parliament; but, in the first and 
second years of Edward II. the inhabitants de- 
clined the honour of representation, as being 
too expensive. Queen Elizabeth, in 1590, 
granted a charter to Bath as a body corporate 
and politic, and declared it a city of itself; and, 
in 1794, his present Majesty also granted them 
a new charter, with an extension of privileges. 

In quitting the above slight sketch of the an- 
tiquity of this splendid City, the reader's more 
immediate attention is now claimed to that pe- 
riod, from whence MODERN BATH may date 

its FASHIONABLE ORIGIN, RlSE, and PROGRESS, 

up to its present acme of elegance and greatness. 
It appears, that, about the year 1670, Bath was 

* Minute and learned accounts have been published 
upon these fragments by the Rev. Mr. Warner, the late 
Governor Pownall, S. Lysons, Esq. F.R.S. Keeper of the 
Records in the Tower ; and a small manuscript quarto is also 
to be seen in this repository, written by John Cranch, and 
presented to the Corporation, upon these doubtful subjects. 



48 EPITOME 

of no importance whatever, and merely the resi- 
dence of a small number of shopkeepers and 
mechanics; increasing occasionally by a few 
families of rank, and valetudinarians who came 
for the benefit of the waters. The houses were 
far from respectable; and, in fact, there were 
but two capable of receiving persons above the 
middling stations of life. Indeed, in the year 
1700, it is asserted, that the admirers of the 
" light fantastic toe" did not exceed ten couple; 
and that only one house could boast of having 
sashed windows ; nor was cleanliness then one of 
its most prominent features; and its salubrity, 
which is now the theme of almost every visitor, 
was also much injured from the want of a com- 
mon sewer. Bath, at this time, could not boast 
of a ball-room, or any other place of amusement; 
and the bowling-green, open and exposed as it was, 
the most convenient spot for parties to dance 
upon. Perhaps it might be only fair to presume, 
that Fashion, at this period, was not to be seen 
with so bold a front, nor exactly so transparent 
as the improvement of more modern times have 
introduced and sanctioned : 

Whilst many a close sedan convey'd its freight 

Of naked charms to Ramrod's room of state, 

Now, snow-white bosoms fascinate the eye, 

Swelling in all the pride of nudity : 

The firm round arm, soft cheek, and pouting lip, 

And backs expos'd below the jutting hip : 

To these succeed dim eyes, and wither'd faces, 

And pucker'd necks, as rough as shag-green cases ; 



OF BATH. 4l> 

But whose kind owners, hon'ring Ramrod's ball, 
Benevolently show their little all. 

Rebellion in Bath. 

Very little alteration occurred for some years, 
until the Duke of Beaufort became the patron 
of its amusements, and who was looked upon as 
the first master of the ceremonies, in collecting 
the company together at the Town Hall. His 
Grace introduced a Captain Webster to preside 
over the assemblies; but gaming was so much 
the rage among all ranks at Bath, that it took 
the lead over every other species of amusement. 

What thanks to the City of Bath then are due, 

From all who this patriot maxim pursue : 

For in no place whatever that national good 

Is practis'd so well, and so well understood. 

What infinite merit and praise does she claim in 

Her ways and her means for promoting of gaming ! 

And gaming, no doubt, is of infinite use, 

That same circulation of cash to produce. 

What true public spirited people are here, 

Who for that very purpose come ev'ry year ! 

All eminent men, who no trade ever knew 

But gaming, the only trade to pursue ; 

All other professions are subject to fail, 

But gaming's a business will ever prevail ; 

Besides, 'tis the only good way to commence 

An acquaintance with all men of spirit and sense ; 

We may grub on without it through life, I suppose, 

But then 'tis with people — that nobody knows. 

At this juncture Mr. Nash first visited the 
above City. He was well received by the gentry ; 
lived upon very intimate terms with Captain 

F 



50 EPITOME 

Webster ; and, at his death, as if by one general 
consent, he took upon himself the reins of go- 
vernment, and began to superintend every thing 
connected with the amusements of the City. 
The band of music, consisting only of five in- 
different performers, played in the Grove, under 
some large trees ; but the physicians, at length, 
prevailed on Mr. Nash to remove the music to 
the Pump-Room, as a means of restoring the 
spirits of the valetudinarian. 

This, it appears, was the origin of the band 
performing in the latter place; and which has 
been continued to the present period, without 
any material alteration. This band was paid by 
the contribution of strangers: but, upon the 
company increasing, Mr. Nash procured seven 
performers from London, and they were permit- 
ed to play in the Old Cross Bath Pump-Room, 
in order to put them upon a more respectable 
footing. 

The first ball-room in Bath, it seems, was 
erected, as a matter of speculation, by a Mr. 
Harrison, a young tradesman from London, at 
the north end of the Lower Assembly-Room, 
who, finding his visitors daily increase, was in- 
duced to build a card-room. Upon some exac- 
tions being made by Mr. Harrison displeasing to 
his visitors, they applied to Mr. Nash to procure 
another place of resort. This request was soon 
put into execution; and, at the expense of Mr. 
Theyrs, on the walks, (where York-Street now 



OF BATH. dl 

stands ;) and Mrs. Lindsey, a singer of conside- 
rable repute, was selected to conduct it. These 
amusements were well mauaged at both of the 
rooms; and the balls were held alternately on 
Tuesdays and Fridays, beginning at six o'clock 
and ending at eleven. 

Upon the death of Harrison, Mrs. Hayes, the 
sister of Mrs. Lindsey, became tenant of those 
rooms ; and, in consequence of which, all oppo- 
sition was at an end, and impositions were again 
practised upon the company. This complaint 
was, at length, removed upon the death of Mrs, 
Lindsey ; and Nash, with much discernment 
and good policy, prevented any intimacy, in 
future, between the proprietors of the rival 
ball-rooms, to the injury of the visitors. Mrs. 
Hayes becoming very rich, a nobleman, to mend 
his fortune, it appears, felt no sort of degrada- 
tion in becoming her husband. At this period, 
in Bath, it was a subject of much conversation, 
that a lodging-house was kept by a duke;* a 
gaming-table by a lord ;f and wine was sold by 
an archdeacon, j The above instances were well- 
known facts. 

Till within the last eighty years, Bath was 
confined principally within its ancient walis, in- 
cluding only the parishes of St. Peter and Paul, 
St. James, and St. Michael, covering about the 

* Duke of Chandos. t Lord Hawley. 

$ Archdeacon Hunt. 



52 EPITOME 

space of fifty acres of ground : but owing to its 
vast overflow of company, which continued 
yearly to increase, and the want of residences to 
contain the visitors becoming so apparent, a few 
spirited architects, masons, and carpenters, as- 
sisted by some persons of rank and property, 
anxious to remedy so generally felt an evil, en- 
tered into a variety of speculations to produce 
such an effect. Improvement was, therefore, 
the order of the day; and, to render Bath 
still more attractive in the eyes of the upper 
circles of society, as well as to make its 
accommodations superior to every other place of 
fashionable resort in the kingdom, new streets 
were scarcely planned but erected almost with 
the rapidity of magic; squares, parades, places, 
and circuses, followed in equal quick succession; 
encouragement went hand in hand to support so 
enlarged an undertaking, where convenience 
was not only a principal study, but where grand- 
ness of design also marked most prominently 
the features of the attempt; and, lastly, where 
elegance and architectural beauty crowned the 
efforts of those laudable and praiseworthy indi- 
viduals. Scarcely a situation in Bath, however 
elevated, has been neglected, where any building 
might be erected that would add importance to 
the City, or increase the grandeur of the scale, 
which is clearly evinced in those houses hang- 
ing, as it were, over the broad acclivity of Lans- 
down, which rises to the north. 



OF BATH. 53 



The houses are all built of the beautiful Oolite, 
or free-stone, and, from their pale yellow clean 
appearance, produce an uncommonly interesting 
effect; but, to the eye not accustomed to such 
uniformity, it feels impressed with their magni- 
ficence and splendour. With the addition of the 
parishes of Walcot and Bath-wick, to which no 
distinction can now be scarcely witnessed, the 
connexion being so complete, and the buildings 
having multiplied so astonishingly, that it may 
be said of Bath, it has not only thickened in 
breadth, but it has also stretched so far, that at 
the present period (1819) it measures nearly one 
mile and three quarters in length, containing a 
population of 50,000 souls. It undoubtedly 
must prove a great source of gratification, if not 
laudable pride to the natives of Bath, that within 
the remembrance of a few fleeting years, upon 
those very green fields the pastime and pleasure 
of their boyish days, and also in climbing those 
hills, whether in pursuit of exercise, or to enjoy 
the delightful prospects which so often present 
themselves to their enraptured sight, are now all 
vanished in the metamorphose of beholding 
splendid mansions, &c. risen in their stead ; and 
the once straggling suburbs now closely filled 
up, and enveloped as it were in the very heart 
of the city. Admiration, in contemplating and 
appreciating this increasing scene of magnifi- 
cence, feels at a loss whether to give the palm 
to the spirit of the builders — the liberality in 

F 2 



54 EPITOME 

employing such immense capitals — or to the 
great patronage and support of the nobility and 
gentry. But while this spirit of enterprise and 
speculation existed towards the northern side of 
the city, it would be unjust to omit, that the 
valuable tracts of land which were situated on 
the other side of the town were not suffered to 
remain in a dreary and barren state. The 
late Sir William Pulteney, anxious to keep pace 
with the general design, namely — the im- 
provement of Bath, and possessing the 
true spirit of emulation and rivalry even to 
exceed the other part of the city, erected 
a bridge of communication, (called after his 
name,) and held out such encouragement to 
builders, that a new town might almost be 
said to have been produced from his exertions. 
Possessing also the advantages of rough stone 
being dug from his own contiguous hills, and 
being in the immediate neighbourhood of excel- 
lent quarries of free-stone, his plans were pro- 
secuted with redoubled vigour and rapidity, 
and he lived to see the most elegant and capa- 
cious street finished in Bath, as well as several 
elegant ones adjoining it. His daughter, the 
late Countess of Bath, also, with becoming zeal, 
furthered the speculating design of her parent ; 
and the Earl of Darlington (to whom those 
estates devolved) seems to hold out the same 
spirit of enterprise and improvement that cha- 
racterized the laudable efforts of his two noble 



OF BATH. 55 

predecessors. Not a month, it should seem, 
passes over without the commencement of new 
buildings in some part of Bath ; and, in addi- 
tion to the erection of a new church at Bath- 
wick, which is a most interesting piece of archi- 
tecture, and a very great ornament to this part 
of the suburbs, the ground for another church, 
it is said, is also marked out near James-Street, 
besides the plans of new squares, streets, &c. 

It has however been urged, for a number of 
\ears past, that Bath, like most other fashion- 
able places of resort, was likely to experience 
an excess of buildings, and that, ultimately, ruin 
would fall upon the various speculators in thus 
employing their capital; but this prophecy, up 
to the present time, has proved nothing more than 
visionary conjecture ; and, on the contrary, houses 
have been scarcely finished, when purchasers 
have appeared, and tenants not been found 
wanting. The following anecdote, in illustration 
of the above fact, is worthy of remark : — In the 
year 1790, a gentleman, conspicuous for the 
great botanical taste he had displayed in his 
garden in the suburbs, was suddenly ordered to 
quit this scene of his amusement and delight to 
make room for a building lease ; in the heat of 
his mortification and anger, and giving vent to 
his wounded feelings, he wrote the following 
epigram: — 

Ye men of Bath, who stately mansions rear, 
To wait for tenants from the devil knows where ; 



$6 EPITOME 

Would you pursue a plan that cannot fail, 
Erect a mad-hoase, and enlarge your gaol. 

This epigram called forth the following appo- 
site reply : — 

Whilst crowds arrive, fast as our streets increase, 
And our gaol only proves an empty space ; 
Whilst health and ease here court the grave and gay — 
Madmen and fools alone will keep away. 

It is asserted as a fact, that, at the period 
the above reply was made public, not a single 
prisoner was to be found within the walls 
of the gaol, and the sheriff (C. Philpot, Esq.) 
had, in consequence, ordered the doors of the 
prison to be thrown open. 

Bath is not alone indebted to the erection of 
new buildings for improvement, which is evident, 
from an act of parliament having been procured 
in 1789, to enable the commissioners to widen and 
render more convenient many parts of the Old 
City, which has not only been acted upon with 
great skill and propriety, but reflects much credit 
upon the Corporation for their anxious endeavours 
to let no improvement be neglected, that could 
add comfort or give increased splendour to the 
City of Bath. 

A grand and spacious square, opposite the 
South Parade, has also been planned by Earl 
Manvers, and in some degree begun, and which 
cannot fail, when completed, of being a great 
ornament to this part of Old Bath, and rival 
some of its most magnificent structures. 



OF BATH. 57 

The following poetic description of Bath, 
written by the eloquent and feeling Mr. Pratt, 
nearly 20 years ago, is another convincing proof 
of the rapid increase of the buildings, squares, 
&c. at that period ; and the comparison still 
holds good in 1819: — 

Bath, how fair wert thou to view, 
When last I said, dear Bath, adieu ! 
When, in the language of the beau, 

1 tendered thee my 1). I. O. ! 

Fair were the hills that topt thy scene, 
And fair the groves that smil'd between. 
A crescent grac'd thy hairy brow ; 
A circus bound thy zone below ; 
And blithe as Eden in its May, 
Nature, with all her train, at play, 
Were seen distinct; the frolic gales 
Sporting with beauty in the vales ; 
While temp'rance, to Hygeia giv'n — 
Crown'd with roses fresh from heav'n; 
Their odours dropping from her wings, — 
Shed balm into thy healing springs; 
While all that rais'd life's drooping powers, 
Were guided by the sober hours ; 
There regulated dame and play, 
And scatter'd blessings o'er the way. 
Such wert thou when I saw thee last, 
Some twenty fleeting summers past, 
But now, so mighty art thou grown, 
Thy head so large, thy trunk so swoln, 
Thy legs and arms so long and wide, 
And such an air of city pride ; 
Thy sides so blackened by the smoke, 
Thy streets so crammed, thy views so broke ; 



58 EPITOME 

By upstart buildings, perch'd on high, 
Like pigmies aiming at the sky 3 
Vapour that respiration clogs, 
And all the family of fogs ; 
And modern ruins all a-row, 
And winds above, and dust below, 
And London fashions rattling down 
To make thee yet more overgrown, 
And well-bred dinnerings at seven, 
And sipping coffee at eleven ; 
And sandwiches at noon or night, 
And dames, at noon of day, in white, 
Shewing their shapes to all the men 
Up Milsom-street, and down again; 
Pacing the smooth parades in crowds, 
Like shadows folded in their shrouds ; 
Yet shades that prove the substance true, 
For each fair limb's betray'd to view, 
And though the earth the drapery reaches, 
'Tis but a kind of muslin breeches, 
Tight e'en as buck-skin on the beau, 
With here and there an airy flow, 
As waves the linen to the breeze, 
O times of freedom aud of ease ! 
And after thus they blow about, 
They leave the even of a rout ; 
Then, hissing hot, retire to bed ! 
And rise at noon of day, half dead ! — 
In short, thou art so Londoniz'd, 
So over-built, and over-siz'd, 
That, my old friend, I scarcely knew, 
Since last I said, dear Bath adieu! 
Yet, if with this increase of height, 
And bulk, thou art so good as great ; 
If thou more largely can dispense 
Thy streams to genius, virtue, sense ; 



OF BATH. 59 

If from those streams more copious flow 

The balms that soften human woe : 

Or if they offer prompt relief 

To pallid sickness, paler grief; 

Or give to pity's gentle eye 

The melting beam of charity ; 

Or to the trembling nerves impart 

The tone that gives the cheerful heart; 

And if from thy augmented wealth 

The poor find bread, the affluent health ; 

And faded sorrow at thy springs 

Removes the malady it brings : 

Then, — though thy charms were all destroy'd, 

Though hosts of artists were employ'd, 

To seize the remnant of thv bowers, 

Usurp the fragrant realms of flowers ; 

Though the white mason should displace 

The varied grounds of ev'ry grace, 

Where now thy tender blossoms blow, 

And daisies shoot, and hawthorns grow, 

Rob e'en thy gardens of their pride, 

And spread the vernal ruin wide, 

Till e'en the firs that edge the scene 

Should yield their everlasting green, 

And disembowell'd quarries dark 

Change to a town thy ALLEN's park; 

Another Crescent crowd thy hill, 

And kid in clouds another still, 

Another Circus on another, 

Staring and wond'ring at each other ! 

Till when I next my visit pay 

Brick, stone, or mortar, block my way, 

I'd bid thee build from street to street, 

Till Lud's and Bla dud's cities meet. 

The situation of Bath is low; but, notwith- 
standing, the air is considered very salubrious ; 



60 



EPITOME 



and the inhabitants, generally, possessing good 
health and longevity. It stands in a fruitful 
valley, in the hundred of Bathforum, in the 
north-east part of Somersetshire, and is sur- 
rounded by an amphitheatre of hills of con- 
siderable height, which prove a fine shelter from 
the north-easterly winds, and is only open to 
the west. It also abounds with most excellent 
springs, the water of which is conveyed by 
leaden pipes into the houses of the city. Bath 
is south-west 67 miles distant from Oxford ; 39 
from the city of Gloucester ; 36 north-west from 
Salisbury ; 19 from Wells ; 80 from Exeter ; 13 
from Bristol ; and 107 miles from London. The 
x\von, which passes close to the city, is navigable 
for barges to and from Bristol ; and by the 
Kennet and Avon canal, in conjunction with the 
Thames navigation, there is a direct communi- 
cation by water to the metropolis. 

Bath is under the jurisdiction of a mayor, 
recorder, 10 aldermen, and 20 common council- 
men, a chamberlain, and a town-clerk ; two 
sheriffs and two chief constables are annually 
chosen from the common council; and the 
mayor and two justices are also selected from 
the aldermen: but, upon the renewal of the 
charter, in 1794, the justices were increased to 
the number of nine. The sum of ,£1000 per 
annum is allowed the mayor to support the dig- 
nity of his office. The body of chairmen, con- 
sisting of upwards of 300 in number, are all 



OF BATH. 61 

sworn in as constables, the better to aid the 
well-directed police, which Bath has to boast of 
over every other place in the kingdom. It re- 
turns two members to parliament, which are 
chosen by the corporation ; and, being joined with 
Wells, forms a bishopric, and is called the dio- 
cese of Bath and Wells. The corporation, it 
appears, has the gift or patronage of the rectory 
of Bath, with Lyncomb and Widcombe appen- 
dant : also the mastership of St. John's Hospital 
and the rectory of Charlcombe, and the master- 
ship of the Grammar-School; but which are of 
inferior importance. 

In a poem, written by an elegant female,* 
called, " A Description of Bath," the fol- 
lowing lines, on its healthy situation and the re- 
storative qualities of its waters, occur: — 

" If but one leper cured made Jordan's stream, 
In sacred writ, a venerable theme ; 
What honour to thy sov'reign water's due, 
Where sick by thousands do their health renew ! 

u The min'ral steams which from the baths arise, 
From noxious vapours clear the neighb'ring skies 3 
When fevers bore an epidemic sway, 
Unpeopled towns, swept villages away ; — 
While death abroad dealt terror and despair, 
The plague but gently touch'd within their sphere. 

" Bless'd source of health ! seated on rising ground, 
With friendly hills by nature guarded round; 
From eastern blasts and sultry south secure, 
The air's balsamic, and the soil is pure!" 

* The late Mrs. Ciiandlexi. 

G 



62 EPITOME 

Bath, in the reign of Richard I. was a place 
of considerable trade ; and much intercourse, it 
appears, took place at that time with Bristol, in 
the articles of silk, cloth, &c. and numerous 
barges, laden with various commodities, were 
employed upon the Avon. In the fourteenth 
century, the woollen trade made its appearance 
at Bath with some vigour; but, in the reign of 
Henry VIII. it was viewed as one of the first 
woollen towns in the west of England, and had 
three companies established in the city of the 
weavers, tailors, and shoemakers. The woollen 
trade continued to flourish in Bath during the 
seventeenth century; and, at the restoration of 
Charles II. in the parish of St. Michael, no less 
than sixty broad looms were employed. But, 
owing to the introduction of machinery and 
other causes, it completely dwindled away; 
and, as if manufactures or trade, carried on upon 
a large scale, were considered inimical or injuri- 
ous to a fashionable place of resort, like Bath, 
it appears that even the mere resemblance cf it 
has been completely done away, within the last 
fifty years, by the prohibition of the following 
trades from walking in procession, decorated 
with their regalia, which had been an annual 
custom ever since the fifteenth century. The 
trading importance, therefore, of the tailors, 
cordwainers, plasterers, masons, joiners, mercers, 
upholsterers, butchers, and bakers, was com- 
pletely annihilated; and, by a legal decree, de- 



OF BATH. 63 

clared the privileges they had hitherto assumed 
were usurped and unfounded. It has, however, 
been thought that commerce may, in some de- 
gree, revive, owing to the canal which has been 
made from Bath to Bristol; and that various 
heavy articles, such as iron, copper, &c. might 
pass through the City from Wales, instead of 
going a circuitous and hazardous voyage to the 
metropolis ; and, in return, Bath might supply 
Wales with those commodities which are sent 
from London. The trade of Bath is, therefore, 
now confined exclusively to retail custom; and 
dependent entirely upon the caprice of fashion, 
or the mere home consumption of the City and 
its neighbourhood. 

Tradesmen ! a set of vulgar swine, 

Crutches for a fortune in a deep decline ; 

Lo ! what a tradesman's good for, and lo all, 

A wooden buttress for a tott'ring wall ! — Pjndar. 

But, however the importance of traffic may 
be viewed as a secondary consideration, and 
placed, as it is, in the back-ground, it is evident 
that the learned and other professions are not 
only prominent but numerous in the extreme. 
In the healing art alone, the various " Guides" 
distinctly name thirty-one physicians, thirty-two 
surgeons, sixteen apothecaries, eight dentists, 
and eight chemists. 

As we all came for health, (as a body may say,) 
I sent for the doctor the very next day, 



64 EPITOME 

And so, as I grew every day worse and worse, 
The doctor advised me to send for a nurse, 
And the nurse was so willing nry health to restore, 
, She begg'd me to send for a few doctors more ; 
For when any difficult work's to be done, 
Many heads can despatch it much sooner than one; 
And I find there are doctors enough in this place, 
If you want to consult in a dangerous case ! 

Here are also six architects; teachers of vari- 
ous languages, thirteen; dancing-masters and 
academies, ten ; and professors of music, upon 
various instruments, fortv: 

For in every science, in ev'ry profession, 

We make the best progress at years of discretion ! 

Of that useful class of society (and no de- 
scription of men can possibly be of more im- 
portance in a place of fashion) there are five 
bankers; and, as a convincing proof that "great 
folks" have neither time nor industry to manage 
their own affairs, employment, it should seem, 
is found in Bath for five barristers, five con- 
veyancers, and for twenty-nine attoenies! 
but, among the numerous comforts and conveni- 
ences specified and promulgated in the above 
Guides, there are no mention made either of 
patent coffins or undertakers! The healthful 
state of the climate, it is presumed, renders it 
impossible to get a living at the above trade, as 
a distinct business* 

Principal Inns. — Bath has to boast of most 
excellent inns for the reception of company; the 



OF BATH. Go 

following may be reckoned as the most conspi- 
cuous, from which the mail and several other 
stage-coaches start. 

York-House, York -Buildings. — Messrs. 
Lucas and Reilly. 

White-Hart, Stall-Street. — Messrs. Wood- 
house and Co. 

White-Lion, Market-Place. — Mr. Arnold. 

Castle, JSorthgate-Street. — Mr. Temple. 

Lamb, Stall-Street. — Mr. Banks. 

Greyhound, Market-Place. — Mr. May. 

Angel, Westgate- Street. — Mr. Rose. 

Fromont and Co.'s Coach-Office. — Market* 
Place. 

Christopher, Market-Place. — Mr. Cook. 

Golden-Lion, Horse-Street.— Mr. Prince. 

Lodging-Houses. — In this respect, Bath 
rises superior to almost every other place of 
public resort in the kingdom. Lodgings are not 
only very numerous, but are distinguished for 
the elegance, convenience, and comfort, which 
they afford the visitors. In the course of a walk 
of five or ten minutes about the City, after the 
arrival of a family, suitable apartments may be 
procured, with the utmost ease, the prices vary- 
ing according to the situations of the house, the 
number of rooms, &c. 

Boarding-Houses. — There are also several 
excellent places of this description within the 
City of Bath, for the accommodation of those 

G 2 



66 EPITOME 

visitors who are anxious to confine their expen- 
diture within certain limits. 

Eating-Houses, or Cooks' Shops, which 
are so numerous in London, are not to be found 
in Bath; throughout the whole City, there are 
not above three in number, and those with infe- 
rior accommodation. The visitors, in general, 
are of too high a cast to encourage such sort of 
pauvre restaurateurs. Several of the public- 
houses have good ordinaries. 

Newspapers. — Four of these vehicles of 
public information are published weekly in Bath, 
under the following titles: — The Bath Journal, 
Bath and Cheltenham Gazette, Bath Chronicle, 
and the Bath Herald; but whose columns par- 
take more of a fashionable and miscellaneous 
nature than of any original political angry tone. 

Bath has also its " penny post/' which 
proves of great convenience to the visitors. 

The Public Libraries are under the direc- 
tion of the following persons : — 

Messrs. Mevler and Son, close to the Great 
Pump- Room. 

Mr. Godwin, Milsom-Street. 

Mr. Duffield's, ditto. 

Mr. Upham's, on the Walks. 

Messrs. Barrett and Sons, Bond-Street. 

Mr. Gibbons, At gyle-Street. 

Mr. Sims, North Parade. 

These places of rational entertainment are 



OF BATH. G7 

well supplied with the London and provincial 
newspapers, &c. and great varieties of valuable 
books in the different parts of literature will be 
found among their collections. The terms are 
as follow : — 

£ s. s. d. 

1 10 the year. 
1 six months. 
15 the quarter. 



10 6 two months. 
7 6 the month. 
2 6 by the week. 



Riding-Schools. — When the weather will 
not permit the ladies and gentlemen to take their 
rides upon the downs, &c. the above schools, 
situate in Montpelier-Row and Monmouth- 
Street, kept by Messrs. Stevenson and Stokes, 
are very extensive and commodious for taking 
equestrian exercise. To learn to ride the mana- 
ged horse, the terms are three guineas for sixteen 
lessons ; and 5s. 6d. for a single lesson. 

Sedan-Chairs and Two-wheeled Car- 
riages.— The former of these vehicles greatly 
add to the comforts of Bath, in not only securing 
from annoyance and exposure visitors to the 
public places of amusement; but, also, in 
proving a most desirable conveyance for the 
valetudinarian and invalid, in all sorts of weather, 
to any part of the City. The chairs, in general, 
are neat and clean, and free from damp; and 
are under the perfect controul of the corporation, 
from whom they receive an annual license. The 
following rates are also affixed by the mayor 
and two justices: — 



68 EPITOME 

s. d. 
For carrying one person any distance not exceeding 

500 yards 6 

Above 500, and not exceeding 1173 yards 1 

Beyond 1173 yards, and not exceeding one mile . . 16 
Beyond one measured mile, and not exceeding in the 

whole one mile and 586 yards 2 

Not exceeding one mile 1173 yards 2 6 

Not exceeding two measured miles 3 

And for every 586 yards beyond 6 

Any person may detain the chairmen in every fare, without 
paying any thing for it, as follows, viz. 

Minutes. Minutes. 



In a sixpenny fare .... 10 
In a twelvepenny fare. . 15 
In an eighteenpenny fare 20 



In a two shilling fare . . 25 
In half-a-crown fare . . 30 
Tn a three shilling fare 35 



And in every other fare or quantity of ground constituting 
an additional fare, any farther time not exceeding in each 
additional sixpenny fare, as above, five minutes. 

All fares to be charged double after twelve o'clock at 
night. And, instead of 500 yards, 300 are only a sixpenny 
fare on hilly or ascending ground, whether upwards or 
downwards ; but where the fare begins on plain ground, and 
ends on ascent, or begins on a descent, and ends on plain 
ground, the chairmen must carry the full space of 500 yards. 

Chairmen to be paid 6d. for each extra quarter of an hour's 
waiting. Chairmen demanding more for their fare than they 
are entitled to, or refusing or declining to carry any fare when 
called on, or using any abusive or insulting language, shall 
forfeit 20s. or be suspended from using their chair for any 
time not exceeding forty days. 

The mayor and two justices to direct the measurement of 
any distances in dispute, the expense of which to be paid by 
the chairmen, if the distance be less than they charge, and, 
a more, by the persons they carry. 



OF BATH. 69 

The Post-Office.— It cannot be doubted, 
but this institution is most admirably conducted, 
when it is recollected that the late Mr. Palmer, 
the grand projector of the mail-coaches, was a 
native and resident of Bath. It is situate oppo- 
site the Abbey Church, in Kingston-Buildings; 
and where the post arrives at, and leaves Bath 
for the under-mentioned places, at the following 
specified times: — 

To AND FROM LONDON, AND PARTS BEYOND. 

Goes out — Every evening (except Saturday) at five o'clock. 
Comes in — Every morning (except Monday) from ten to 
twelve. 

To and from Hounslow, Colnbrook, Maidenhead, Reading, 
Newbury, Hungerford, Marlborough, Calne, Chippenham, 
&c. 

Gees out — Every evening at five. 
Comes in — Every morning from ten to twelve. 
To and from all parts of Oxfordshire, Stratford, Warwick, 
Abingdon, Faringdon, Malmsbury, Swindon, Wootton- 
Basset, Cricklade, Highworth, Lechlade, Fairlbrd, Ciren- 
cester, Tetbury, Sodbury, &c. 

Goes out — Every morning at nine. 
Comes in— Every evening from four to five. 
To and from Cornwall, Devon, Wellington, Taunton, Bridge- 
water, Wells, Somerton, Langport, Ilminster, Chard, Crew- 
kerne, &c. 

Goes out — Every morning at nine. 
Comes in — Every evening from four to five. 
To and from Eastbourne, Uckfield, Brighton, Chichester, 
Petworth, Shoreham, Dorsetshire, Hampshire, Salisbury, 
' Heytesbury, Warminster, Frome, &c. 
Goes out — Every evening at five. 
Comes in — Every morning from nine to ten. 



70 EPITOME 

To and from the north of Ireland, Wales, Cumberland, Dur- 
ham, Northumberland, Scotland, Cove and Cork, Michin- 
hampton, Usk, Abergavenny, Monmouth, Westmoreland, 
Lancashire, Cheshire, Shropshire, Staffordshire, Worces- 
tershire, Herefordshire, Birmingham, Gloucester, Chel- 
tenham, Stroud, J\ r orthleach, Newnham, Berkeley, 
Newent, Michel-Dean, Colford, Dursley, Wootton, De- 
vizes, Melksham, Trowbridge, Bradford, &c. 
Goes out — Every afternoon at three. 
Comes in — Every morning from nine to eleven. 

To and from Bristol, South of Ireland, Pembrokeshire, Car- 
marthenshire, Monmouthshire, Glamorganshire, Newport, 
Caerleon, Chepstow, &c. 
Goes out — Every morning at nine, and every evening at 

three. 

Comes in — Every morning about ten, and every evening 

at six. 

The letter-box is closed every evening from five to a quarter 

before six ; but letters will be forwarded by that evening's 

mail, on paying Id. if brought before a quarter past five ; 

from that time till the arrival of the Bristol mail 6d. is charged, 

after which no letter can be received to be forwarded by 

that post. 

Bath Harmonic Society. — This musical 
institution, which is held every Friday evening, 
from December to March, at the White Hart Inn, 
in Stall-Street, is of the most respectable de- 
scription, and was founded in 1795, by the Rev. 
M. Bowen, a gentleman of acknowledged great 
musical taste. The singing consists principally 
of glees, catches, &c. Nothing that can offend 
the most refined ear is suffered to be sung. The 
members are admitted by ballot. Three guineas 
for the first season. Their Royal Highnesses 









OF BATH. 71 

the Prince Regent, the Dukes of York and 
Gloucester, are members ; and his Royal High- 
ness has conferred the dignity upon the Society 
of wearing garter-blue ribands. In the season 
a superb concert and ball is given to the ladies, 
at Kingston-Rooms. Strangers are admitted 
twice in the year; but noblemen, gentlemen, and 
professional men only, are elected as members. 
Of the kind, it is the first society in England. 

Bath has the honour to boast of not only 
being the temporary residence of numerous 
princes and crowned heads at distant periods, 
but also of the visits of royalty in more modern 
times, more frequently than any other city of its 
size in England. Osric, Offa, Edgar, and most 
of the princes of the Saxon line; Rufus, the 
Norman; Henry I. and II. Edward I. II. 
and III. Henry IV. and VII. Edward VI. and 
Elizabeth; James I. and Charles I. Richard 
Cromwell and Charles II. James II. and his 
queen ; Frederick, Prince of Wales, and his con- 
sort ; the Princess Amelia; his Royal Highness 
the Prince Regent visited Bath in 1796, and 
accepted the freedom of the City; and, in 1795, 
his Royal Highness the Duke of Gloucester, and 
their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess 
of York, made a temporary residence of Bath; 
and also in November, 1817, her late Majesty 
the Queen honoured Bath with her presence; 
but was suddenly called away by the lamented 
death of the Princess Charlotte of Wales; but, 



72 



EPITOME 



in the course of three weeks her Majesty return- 
ed to this elegant City for a short period, and 
received an address of condolence from the 
Mayor and Corporation, upon the great loss the 
nation had sustained in the death of her Royal 
Highness. 

In the season, which may be said to be at its 
height from Christmas to April, it is the opinion 
of every person who has visited this elegant 
City, that Bath rises superior to every other 
place in England, in affording so extensive a 
circle of polite and well-bred company. The 
entertainments are also regulated with great pro- 
priety ; and the variety of them, added to the 
numerous delightful interesting walks with which 
it abounds, prevents that degree of sameness 
which pervades most other public places of re- 
sort. In the morning from the Pump-Room to 
the Parades — the Crescents — a stroll alongside 
the Avon;— or, a walk in Sydney-Gardens — 
the inviting level path to the village of Weston — 
visiting the shops — libraries — exhibitions, &c. 
A peep at Pryor-Park, Claverton-Down, and 
Lansdown-Hill, &c. &c. After dinner, the 
Theatre becomes attractive ; or to dash off to 
the Rooms, where dancing and the card-table 
tend to finish and fully occupy (almost as nume- 
rously as Caleb Quotem's variety of callings) the 
time of a fashionable visitor at Bath. 

'Tis amazing they find such a number of ways 

Of employing his thoughts all the time that he stays ! 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 73 



WALK I. 



From the York Hotel to Edgar-Buildings, through 
Milsom-Slreet, (Octagon-Chapel,) Bond-Street 
and Bond - Street- Buildings, Burton-Street, and 
Union-Street (the General Hospital) to Stall- 
Street into Abbey -Place (the Abbey and Great 
Pump-Room). Return to Stall-Street (the King's, 
Queen's, and New Private Baths) through 
Bath-Street (Xross and Hot-Baths and the 
Eye Infirmary,) Hetling- Court, (St. John's 
Chapel and Hospital,) Westgate- Buildings, 
(Bath Agricultural Society,) St. James's 
Parrtrfe,(QuAKERs , MEETiNG-HousE,)Coni-&ree£, 
(Bath and Bath Forum Free-School,) Horse- 
Street, (the Old Bridge). Back to Weymouth- 
Street, (St. James's Church,) Abbey -Gate-Street, 
(Lancasterian School,) Abbey-Green, Abbey- 
Street, (Kingston Baths and Bath Literary 
Society). Kingston-Buildings, (the Post-Office). 
Returning through Milsom- Street to the York- 
Hotel. 

Of all the gay places the world can afford, 

By gentle and simple for pastime adored, 

Fine balls and fine concerts, fine buildings and springs, 

Fine walks and^ne views, and a thousand fine things, 

In manners, in dress, in politeness to shine, 

O Bath ! let the art, let the glory be thine. 



The dejeune is scarcely finished, when the first 
place of attraction that claims the immediate 
attention of the visitor is the Great Pump- 

h 



74 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

Room ; not only, as it were, to announce himself 
to the good people of Bath, but in order to 
recognize some intimate friend or acquaintance 
from the Metropolis, or other parts of the king- 
dom, in this general place of resort or showing 
promenade. The Great Pump-Room is com- 
pletely open for the reception of the public, no 
etiquette of rank being required to obtain an 
admission; and the only qualification necessary 
to join the gay throng, without ceremony, is 
that of a clean decent appearance. On quitting 
the hotel, on the left, Edgar- Buildings, an 
elevated respectable terrace, is perceived oppo- 
site to Milsom- Street ; and what the west end of 
the metropolis presents to the inhabitants of 
London, the same elegant appearance of this 
part of the city operates upon the minds of the 
visitors of Bath. The similarity of feature is 
obvious. In the height of the season, Milsom- 
Street is the promenade of the gentlemen, and 
the shopping of the ladies : this latter circum- 
stance gives it a splendid variety : 

The streets begin to fill, the motley throng 
To see and to be seen now trip along ; 
Some lounge in the bazars, while others meet 
To take a turn or two in Milsom-Street ; 
Some eight or ten round Mirvan's shop remain, 
To stare at those who gladly stare again ! 

It is the very centre of attraction, and till the 
hour of dinuer-time it is the peculiar resort of 



V 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 75 

the beau monde ; and the familiar nod, and the 
u how do you do?" are repeated fifty times in 
the course of a morning. The street itself, 
from its ascent, is elegant and imposing; and, 
the houses, particularly on the left from York- 
Buildings, exhibit considerable architectural 
'grandeur, in consequence of several dwellings 
being erected under one design. All is bustle 
and gaiety: numerous dashing equipages passing 
and repassing, others gracing the doors of the 
tradesmen; sprinkled here and there with the 
invalids in the comfortable sedans and easy two- 
wheeled carriages, all anxious to participate in 
this active part of Bath, giving a sort of finish to 
the scene. The shops are tastefully laid out; ca- 
pacious and elegant; and the addition oi" from 
London," of course, is a complete passport to 
their excellence and superior articles. In short, 
Milsom and Bond Streets afford to the utmost 
extent every thing towards supplying the real 
or imaginary wants of the visitors: containing 
libraries to improve the mind — musical reposi- 
tories to enrich their taste and science — confec- 
tioners to invite the most fastidious appetite — 
tailors, milliners, &c. of the highest eminence 
in the fashionable world, to adorn the male, and 
decorate and beautify the female, to render the 
form almost of statuary excellence; and posi- 
tively, as the grand climax of the rapidity of im- 
provement towards perfection, in making out of 
an old— a complete new face. The denouement is 



76 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

also in point, in having two good banking-houses 
near at hand to support characters of the above 
description, who must need so many and frequent 
supplies to support the arbitrary dictates of 
fashion. The Octagon Chapel, in this street, is 
a neat elegant building, It was opened in 1767. 
The organ is good ; and the altar-piece, painted 
by Mr.Hoare, representing the Pool of Bethesda, 
is not only a fine subject, but reflects great 
credit upon the talents of the artist. Divine 
service is performed here at eleven and five every 
Sunday. The news of the day is also to be 
acquired at the libraries of Messrs. Godwin and 
Duffield, whose reading-rooms render a lounge 
most agreeable and pleasant. On leaving Mil- 
som-Street, you pass the bank of Messrs. Sir B. 
Hobhouse, Clutterbuck, Phillott, Lowder, and 
Phillott, (who draw on Jones, Lloyd, and Co. 
Lothbury, London,) and get into 

Bond-Street. It has no thoroughfare for car- 
riages; is much narrower than Milsom- Street ; 
and pavement extends all over it. It is similar 
to Cranbourne-Alley, in London. The shops are 
extremely elegant, and well furnished: the library 
and reading-rooms of Mr. Barrett is situated 
here ; and also the Society for promoting Chris- 
tian Knowledge. This society, which is a branch 
of the ancient institution of the one held in Bart - 
lett's Buildings, Holborn, London, has not only 
furnished all the public charities and prisons in 
Bath with Prayer-books, religious tracts, &c. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 77 

gratuitously; but the poor inhabitants of nume- 
rous parishes have been also supplied with 
books to explain the Scriptures, agreeably to 
the doctrines of the established church. Sub- 
scriptions are opened at the banks and libraries 
to extend the views of this Society. C. Lowder, 
Esq. is the treasurer, one of the firm of the 
Milsom-Street-Bank. At the end of this street, 
is Bladud-bank, under the firm of Messrs. Tuft- 
nell, Collett, Payne, Hope, and Watts, who draw 
upon Jones and Co. Lothbury, in London. 

Through a small passage is Bond-Street-Build- 
ings, which contains some good houses and 
shops. On the left is Burton-Street leading to 
Union-Street. This latter is wide and capacious, 
and has a good appearance. The progress of 
the visitor is here animatedly arrested in viewing 
the General Hospital, situated at the north-- 
west end of this street, stretching to the corner 
of Parsonage-Lane ; an institution that reflects 
the highest credit upon the inhabitants of this 
City, more especially, from the very liberal and 
real charitable principles upon which it is found- 
ed. The residents of Bath only are excluded 
from partaking of its benefits ; but it is open for 
the reception of the sick-poor from all parts of 
England and Ireland, to whom the waters of 
Bath may be applied with service. The old 
adage observes, that " charity cover eth a multi- 
tude of sins;" and upon this construction ihe 
celebrated Beau Nash, who had the honour of 

H 2 



78 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

suggesting the idea of its foundation in 1715, is 
considered to have wiped off a number of his 
failings. In consequence of some difference of 
opinion, the plan lay dormant till 1738, when it 
was resumed with vigour by the Right Hon. 
William Pulteney, afterwards Earl of Bath, un- 
der whose patronage Mr. Wood, the architect, 
completed its erection. The first stone was 
laid by the above nobleman, bearing the follow- 
ing inscription: — 

" This stone 

Is the first which was laid in the foundation of 

THE GENERAL HOSPITAL, 

July the 6th, A.D. 1738. 

God prosper the charitable undertaking." 

The General Hospital has the appearance 
of a substantial mansion, of the Ionic order, and 
built on the site of the old theatre. It is 100 
feet in length, and 90 in depth ; and well calcu- 
lated to answer all the purposes for which it was 
designed. It was opened for the reception of 
patients in 1742 ; but an act of parliament was 
previously obtained in 1739, declaring the trus- 
tees a corporate body, under the title of the 
" President and Governors of the General Hos- 
pital or Infirmary of Bath." It is worthy of 
remark, that no partiality is suffered to exist in 
this charitable institution ; and that the objects 
of its care are admitted in rotation, as their 
names appear in the book. It is capable of 
containing 133 patients. It is supported by 




:- 



^M^ &&?167ZZ/' j¥<£trf?U&4?. 



Puh&thjul irv Jher»iod Sc C. ^firilj.-j.rz3- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 70 

voluntary contributions; and twice a year col- 
lections are made at the various religious places 
in Bath. All the free-stone and other materials 
necessary for its erection were generously sup- 
plied by the late Ralph Allen, Esq. The Hon. 
and Right Rev. the Bishop of Gloucester is the 
president. In order to give publicity to a cha- 
rity founded upon such very liberal principles, 
offering assistance to the sick-poor from all 
parts of the kingdom, the following conditions 
of admission into the General Hospital are here 
inserted : — 

I. — The case of the patient must be described by some 
physician or person of skill, in the neighbourhood of the 
place where the patient has resided for some time ; and this 
description must be sent, franked or post paid, directed to 
the Register of the General Hospital at Bath. 

The age and name of the patient ought to be mentioned 
in the description of the case ; and the persons who describe 
it are desired to be particular in the enumeration of the 
symptoms : so that neither improper cases may be admitted, 
nor proper ones rejected, by the physicians and surgeons, 
who always examine and sign the cases as proper or impro- 
per, previous to their being laid before the weekly committee. 
If the patient has any fever upon him, as long as the fever 
continues he will be deemed improper. Patients with 
coughs, attended with pain in the chest or spitting of blood, 
are improper ; as also those with abscesses or with any ex- 
ternal ulcers, until such ulcers are healed. 

From want of attention to the foregoing particulars, and 
notwithstanding the cautions frequently given by 
printing the conditions of admission in the public 
papers, very imperfect descriptions of cases have 
been and are still sent, and many patients have been 



80 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

discharged as improper soon after their admission, to 
the disappointment of the patient thus sent. 

II. — After the patient's case has been thus described and 
sent, he must remain in his usual place of residence till he 
has notice of a vacancy, signified by a letter from the Re- 
gister, accompanied with a blank certificate. 

III. — Upon the receipt of this letter the patient must set 
forward for Bath, bringing with him this letter ; the parish 
certificate, duly executed by the minister and parish officers 
where such patient is legally settled, and attested before two 
justices for the county or city to which the patient belongs ; 
and <£§ caution-money, if from any part of England or 
Wales ; — but, if the patient come from Scotland or Ireland, 
then the caution-money to be deposited before admission is 
the sum of £5. 

IV. — Soldiers may, instead of parish certificates, bring a 
'certificate from their commanding- officer, signifying to what 
corps they belong, and that they shall be received into the 
same corps when discharged from the Hospital, in whatever 
condition they are; and the same is expected from the Go- 
vernors of the Chelsea and Greenwich Hospitals, respecting 
their pensioners. But it is necessary that their cases be de- 
scribed, and sent previously ; and that they bring £ 3 cau- 
tion-money. 

The intention of the caution-money is to defray the ex- 
penses of returning the patients after they are discharged 
from the Hospital, or of their burial in case they should die 
there. — The remainder of the caution-money, after these 
expenses are defrayed, will be returned to the person who 
deposited it. 

All poor persons coming to Bath under pretence of getting 
into the Hospital, without having their cases thus described 
and sent previously, and leave given them to come, will be 
treated as vagrants, as the act of parliament for the regula- 
tion of the Hospital requires. 

N.B. If any patient should have the small-pox here, such 
persons must be removed out of the house, and the caution- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 81 

money defray the expenses thereof. Likewise, all persons 
who shall come into the hospital without decent and necessary 
apparel, must have such necessaries provided out of the cau- 
tion-money. 

In this street the Bath and Cheltenham Ga- 
zette is published every Tuesday evening. On 
quitting Union-street, in a straight line is 

Stall- Street, which is but a narrow thorough- 
fare, although leading to and surrounded with 
numerous interesting objects. Opposite the 
White-Hart-Inn is a very handsome stone por- 
tico, at a small distance from the Great Pump 
Room, for the reception and plying-place of 
chairs, in order to accommodate the company 
who frequent this fashionable promenade, as 
well as to remove the noise of the chairmen. 
From Stall-Street this portico has an attractive 
effect; and, in passing under it into Abbey- 
Place, which has a very extensive broad pave- 
ment, and surrounded by some elegant shops, 
the Pump-Room appears upon the right, and 
also the front door (or west end, which is richly 
ornamented) of the fine venerable Abbey bursts 
upon the eye of the visitor. This is the grand 
entrance to the Cathedral Church of St. Peter 
and Paul; and in rich canopied niches are the 
statues of the above patron saints. The window 
over the above door possesses great richness and 
beauty. This ancient pile of architecture is 
one of the last specimens of the ecclesiastical 
Gothic. It was founded by king Osric, in 676; 



82 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

but, after falling into a state of great decay, it 
was begun, in its present form, in the year 1495, 
in the reign of Henry VII. by Oliver King, 
bishop of the diocese, in consequence of a pious 
vision, and completed by Bishop Montague, 
in the reign of James I. From east to west it is 
210 feej in length; and from north to south 
126. The breadth of the body and side ailes is 
72 feet; and the height of the tower 120, 
which contains an excellent peal of ten bells ! 
It is a most elegant interesting structure; and 
viewed as a parochial church, it is without an 
equal in England. Divine service is read every 
day at eleven in the forenoon, which is support- 
ed by voluntary contributions of the company 
visiting Bath. It has fifty-two windows, and 
this church was formerly called the " lantern of 
England." The " Society of Antiquaries" have 
been elaborate in their description of this abbey; 
and it has also claimed the peculiar research 
and investigation of the Rev. Mr. Warner, 
who thus interestingly describes its interior: — 
" The eye on entering the church is immediately 
directed to the roof, singular in its design and 
beautiful in its execution. This consists of two 
parts, the nave and the choir. Of these, the 
former is evidently of later construction than 
the latter. It is separated from the side aisles 
by twelve clustered pillars supporting elliptic 
arches; is of great opening and very flat, the 
span being only 30 feet 3 inches, and the eleva- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 83 

tion only 3 feet. The singularity of this piece 
of masonry, which sets modern art at defiance, 
consists in this circumstance — that the ribs, 
which compose the tracery of the ceiling, are 
the only solid work; the intermediate spaces 
have been originally cut through and left open, 
and filled up slightly in after times with common 
lath and plaster. The roof of the choir rises 
considerably higher than that of the nave, al- 
though the groins of the former are greatly the 
lower of the two. It of course makes a much 
sharper arch, and exhibits in its spreading ribs 
a pattern of most beautiful ramification. The 
choir, which is now fitted up like a common 
parish church, (with the addition of a throne for 
the bishop when he visits Bath,) is separated 
from the nave by a wooden screen, supported by 
stone pillars, and surmounted by an organ of 
most exquisite tone. Near the altar-piece is an 
admirable specimen of architecture in the little 
monumental chapel of Prior Bird, who died in 
1525. This oratory consists of two arched divi- 
sions, impost, entablature, and octangular but- 
tresses, all elaborately ornamented with fanciful 
traceries and other decorations. At the left or 
south-west angle of the chapel are two ranges 
of beautiful niches stringing from the impost and 
terminating with pen-nailes and spires, evidently 
intended for figures ; at present, however, they 
have no tenants/' 



84 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 



'Tis dreadful ! 



How reverend is the face of this tall pile, 
Whose ancient pillars rear their marble heads, 
To bear aloft its arch'd and pondrous roof! 
By its own weight made stedfast and immoveable. 
Looking tranquilly, it strikes an awe 
And terror to my aching sight ! The tombs 
And monumental cases of death look cold, 
And shoot a dullness to my trembling heart. 

If the eye is charmed with the superior archi- 
tecture of the exterior, and the grand appear- 
ance it displays, how much more is the mind 
gratified on entering this sacred repository of 
the dead, in wandering amidst the tombs of so 
many departed great characters? A pleasing 
melancholy pervades the frame, and the senses 
seem lost in a reverie with the surrounding ob- 
jects. The monuments are numerous, and, in 
general, admirably executed ; and many of them, 
for beauty of design and elegance of sculpture, 
reflect great credit upon the different artists under 
whose particular care they have been executed. 
The solemnity of the scene altogether conveys 
a sublime and wholesome truth, that the observer 
cannot shrink from, if properly applied, in ope- 
rating as a useful lesson towards the improve- 
ment of life from the serious examples before 
him. The reflection is impressive and awful, 
that however great in power — splendid in for- 
tune — the blessings of health and strength— and 
all the pride and vain-glory of man, in remem- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 85 

bering that the hero, who had dispersed armies, 
feduced cities, and made nations tremble at his 
nod — the tyrant who had been the terror of 
his reign — the historian who had claimed at- 
tention from his extensive knowledge in handing 
down to posterity the events of his own and 
past times, — the poet who had inspired with 
his lays, and breathed out in amorous poesies, 
the softer ecstasies of love — the player who 
had strutted and fretted his hour to overwhelm- 
ing applause — and the statesman, whose ani- 
mated oratory in defence of his country, had 
rivetted the attention of an admiring senate — 
that all our consequence and pretensions are 
in an instant lost sight of by that awful monitor 
—DEATH! 

General Wade, one of the representatives of 
the City, in the year 1725, gave a very elegant 
altar-piece, representing the Wise Men's Offer- 
ing. It has also a fine-toned organ; and, in 
additiou to the above attractions, its monuments 
are not only numerous, but of the most interest- 
ing description; and the chissels of Nollekens 
and Bacon, in several instances, display some 
exquisite touches of sculptural excellence, as 
well as the pen of the poet exerted with consi- 
derable feeling and ability. 

The admirers of theatrical talent are stopped 
in their progress through this venerable mansion 
of the dead by the monument of James Quin, 
Esq. which has a striking likeness of this once 

I 



86 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

great actor. It has also under it a mask and 
dagger, representing Tragedy and Comedy. 

OB. m,dcc,lxvi.— 'iEtatis lxxiii. 
" That tongue which set the table on a roar, 
And charm'd the public ear, is heard no more : 
Closed are those eyes, the harbingers of wit, 
Which spake before the tongue, what Shakspeare writ: 
Cold is that hand, which living, was stretch' d forth, 
At friendship's call, to succour modest worth : 
Here lies James Quin : deign, reader, to be taught, 
Whate'er thy strength of body, force of thought, 
In nature's happiest mould, however cast, 
To this complexion thou must come at last. 

D. Garrick. 

Near the entrance from the west door, on a 

plain tablet of black marble, encircled with 

white drapery, with a few musical notes at the 

top of it, the following lines, by two eminent 

vocal performers, are placed in remembrance of 

a great teacher of music, whose talents had so 

often delighted the refined circles of Bath, and 

under whose superior tuition the first singers of 

the age had been completed: — 

O RO SUPPLEX ET ACCLINIS, &C. 

Near this place the remains of 

Venanzio Rauzzini, a native of Rome, 

Distinguished as a vocal performer 

On the Continent and in England, 

Whose judicious abilities for 30 years, 

In conducting the musical department 

Of this city, 
Amply gratified the applauding public, 
And whose ever gracious deportment 
Conciliated their zealous affections. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 87 

This tributary memorial 

Was erected by his affectionate pupils, 

Anna Selina Storace and John Braham ; 

Promoted by their friendship and 

Grateful respect for professional merit 

And liberality of sentiment. 

Aged 62 years. 

To the Ladies, the following monument 
is of the most interesting nature ; and although 
it mav fall to the lot of but few of the fair sex to 
realize such perfections as are described on this 
inscription, it nevertheless offers a most laud- 
able stimulus to them, to " go and do likewise/' 
in order to obtain a similar superior character: — 

u In memory of Rebecca Leyborne, 

Interred at the foot of this pillar, 

Born June the 4th, 1698. 

Deceased February 18, 1756. 

A wife more than twenty-three years to Robert Leybome, 

D.D. 

(Rector of the Churches of St. Dunstan, Stepney, 

And of St. Ann's, Middlesex, near London, 

And Principal of Alban-Hall, in Oxford) 

Who never saw her once ruffled with anger, 

Or heard her utter even a peevish word ; 

Whether pained, or injured, the same good woman, 

In whose mouth, as in whose character, 

Was no contradiction : 

Resigned, gentle, courteous, affable ; 

Without passion, though not without sense : 

She took offence as little as she gave it, 

She never was or made an enemy ; 

To servants, mild ; to relations, kind ; 

To the poor, a friend ; to the stranger, hospitable ; 

Always caring how to please her husband, 



88 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

Yet not less attentive to the one thing needful. 

How few will be able to equal 

What all should endeavour to imitate !" 

The name of Fielding is so attractive to the 
lovers of literature, that any circumstance 
attached to it cannot fail of claiming great re- 
spect and attention. The following monument is 
dedicated to the authoress of David Simple; — 

" In this city lived and died Sarah, second daughter of 

General Henry Fielding ; by his first wife, 

daughter of Judge Gould ; 

Whose writings will be known, 

As incentives to virtue, and an honour to her sex, 

When this marble shall be dust. 

She was born mdccxiv. and died April mdcclxviii. 

Her unaffected manners, candid mind, 

Her heart benevolent, and soul resign'd, 

Were more her praise, than all she knew or thought, 

Though Athens' wisdom to her sex she taught. 

The Rev. Dr. John Hoadly,her friend, for the honour of the 
dead, and emulation of the living, inscribes this deficient 
memorial of her virtues and accomplishments. 

The remains of the celebrated Beau Nash 
lay many years without any monument to record 
his exertions in favour of the city of Bath, and 
perhaps he might have been entirely forgotten 
had it not have been for the ingenious and learned 
Dr. Harrington, who promoted a subscrip- 
tion for such a purpose, and thus rescued the 
above Hero of Fashion from total oblivion. 
A plain neat monument, with the following in- 
scription, has been erected to his memory: — 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 89 

(i ADESTE O GIVES, ADESTE LUGENTES! 
HIC SILENT LEGES 

RICARDI NASH, ARMTG. 

NIHIL AMTLIUS IMPERANTIS | 

QUI DIU ET UTILISSIME 

ASSUMPTUS BATHONLE 

ELEGANTI/E ARBITER 

EHEU! 

MORTI (ULTIMO DESIGNATORl) 

HAUD INDECORE SUCCUBUIT 

ANN. DOM. MDCCLXI. iETAT. SUVE LXXXVII 

BEATUS ILLE QUI SIBI IMPERIOSUS ! 

If social virtue make remembrance dear, 

Or manners pure on decent rule depend, 
To his remains one grateful tear, 

Of youth the guardian, and of ail the friend. 
Now sleeps dominion ; here no bounty flows ; 

Nor more avails the festive scene to grace, 
Beneath that hand which no discernment shows, 

Untaught to honor, or distinguish place." 

Under this inscription is cut, in marble, the arm of Death 
striking his dart at a falling crown and sceptre, with 

the motto — 
" JEqaa pulsat manu" 

A marble monument, finished in Bacons best 
style, with the inscription written by Anna 
Seward, on the north side of the altar, is not 
only very attractive from these qualities, but 
from the recollection of the lady to whom it is 
dedicated, in being a highly respected public 
character in Bath. 

" Near this monument are deposited the remains of Lady 
Miller, wife to Sir John Miller, bart. of Batheaston 
Villa ; she departed this life at the Hotwells of Bristol, 
the 24th of June, 1781, in the 41st year of her age. 

I 2 



90 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

" Devoted stone! amidst the wreck of time, 

Uninjur'd bear thy Miller's spotless name: 
The virtues of her youth and ripened prime, 
The tender thought th' enduring record claim. 

" When clos'd the num'rous eyes that round this bier 
Have wept the loss of wide-extended worth, 
O gentle stranger, may one gen'rous tear 

Drop, as thou bendest o'er this hallow'd earth 1 

" Are truth and genius, love and pity thine, 
With lib'ral charity and faith sincere ? 
Then rest thy wand'ring step beneath this shrine, 
And greet a kindred spirit hov'ring near." 

A volume would scarcely suffice to detail the 
monuments in this venerable abbey, among 
which will be found, well worthy of notice, those 
of Mr. Walsh Porter; Dr. Sibthorpe; H. Katen- 
camp, and Governor Pownal ; the classic Mel- 
moth ; Sir William Draper, &c. The ABBEY, 
whenever leisure offers, may be again visited with 
increased attention and profit. 

On quitting this receptacle for the dead, but 
a few yards, of which the lady in Anstey's New 
Bath Guide, thus expresses herself: — 

Declar'd she was shock'd that so many should come, 
To be doctor'd to death, such a distance from home, 
At a place where they tell you that water alone 
Can cure all distempers that ever were known ! 

The scene from " grave to gay ' is now 
changed with almost the general celerity of har- 
lequin's bat, and epitaphs and monumental inscrip- 
tions no longer operate upon the feelings, but are 




!%??2As &HWU 



Rilisied ij- Sterwoed k C° Dec.J idi8. 






WALKS THROUGH BATH. 91 

banished for the lively gaiety which the fashion- 
able throng and music affords to the mind of 
the spectator upon setting his foot into the 
Great Pump-Room : 

Ods-bobs ! how delighted I was unawares, 

With the fiddler I heard in the room above stairs ; 

For music is wholesome, the doctors all think, 

For ladies that bathe, and for ladies that drink ; 

And that's the opinion of Robin, our driver, 

Who whistles his nags while they stand at the river ; 

They say it is right that for every glass 

A tune you should take that the water may pass ; 

So while little Tabby was washing her rump, 

The ladies kept drinking it out of a pump* 

The Great Pump - Room was originally 
built under the auspices of Mr. Nash, in 1704; 
in 1751 it was enlarged ; and, in 1786, its hand- 
some portico, stretching in a northerly direction, 
was added to it. The elegant western frontis- 
piece, which is a considerable ornament to the 
structure, appeared in 1791. The Old Pump- 
Room was taken down in 1796, and the present 
handsome building was erected upon its site, at 
the expense of the corporation. In 1813 it also 
received fresh painting, and tasteful improve- 
ment. It is in length 60 feet; but, including 
the recesses at the ends of the room, it is 85. 
In width 46 feet, and 34 high. The interior is 

• With all due deference to this playful and lively satir- 
ist, upon inquiry it turns out that he has exercised his wit 
somewhat at the expense of truth. 



02 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

set round with three-quarter columns of the Co- 
rinthian order, crowned with an entablature, 
over which is a covering of five feet. The light 
is conveyed into it by two ranges of windows. 
A time-piece, given by the late Mr. TomptoN, is 
placed in the recess at the east end. A marble 
statue of Nash, by Hoare, is also seen in the 
niche contiguous to the above. A gallery for 
the musicians is erected at the western end ; and 
in the centre of the southern side of the room 
is the pump, from which the waters issue out of 
a marble vase ; and on each side is a fire-place. 
The outside of the building is finished to corres- 
pond, and upon the architrave the following 
Greek inscription in letters of gold appear : 

" APIETON MEN YAftP," 
which is an extract from the opening of the first 
ode of Pindar, and bears the following literal 
translation: — 

" Water ! of elements the best /" 

By order of the Governors of the General 
Hospital, the following pathetic inscription is 
painted in letters of gold upon the pump in the 
room, from the pen of the late Christopher 
Anstey, Esq. 

" THE HOSPITAL 

IN THIS CITY, 

Open to the Sick Poor of every Part of the World, 

To whose Cases these Waters are applicable, 

(The Poor of Bath only excepted,) 

Was first established, and is still supported, by the Charitable 

Contributions of the Liberal and Humane. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. ( J3 

" Oh ! pause awhile, who'er thou art, 
That drink'st this healing stream ; 
If e'er compassion o'er thy heart 
Dift'us'd its heavenly beam ; 

" Think on the wretch whose distant lot 
This friendly aid denies; 
Think how in some poor lonely cot 
He unregarded lies ! 

" Hither the helpless stranger bring, 
Relieve his heartfelt woe, 
And let thy bounty, like this spring, 
In genial currents flow : 

<f So may thy years from grief, and pain, 
And pining want, be free : 
And thou from heav'n that mercy gain 
The poor receive from thee." 

The following lines, written by the ingenious 
Dr. Harrington, in imitation of Spenser, are 
framed and glazed, and also hung up near the 
pump: — 

" Alwhyle ye drynke, 'midst age and ache ybent, 
Ah creepe not comfortless besyde our streame, 
(Sweete nurse of hope ;) affliction's downwarde sente, 
Wythe styll smalle voyce, to rouze from thry ftless dreame ; 
Each wyng to prune, that shyftythe everie spraie 
In wytlesse flyghte, and chyrpythe lyfe awaie. 

" Alwhyle ye lave — suche solace may be founde ; 

*' When kynde the hand, why 'neath its heafynge faynte ? 

a Payne shall recure the hearte's corruptede wounde ; 

" Farre gonne is that which feelethe not its playnte. 
" By kyndrede angel sniothe, Bethesda gave 
" Newe vyrtues forthe, and felte her troubledde wave." 



94 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

" Thus drynke, thus lave — nor ever more lamente, 
Oure sprynges but flowe pale anguishe to befriende ; 
How fayre the meede that folio weth contente ! 
How bleste to lyve, and fynde such anguishe raende. 
How bleste to dye — when sufferynge faithe makes sure, 
Atlyfe's high founte, an everlastyne cure!" 

Edgar. 

An excellent band of music, during the sea- 
son, plays from one to half-past three o'clock 
every day, in this elegant and spacious room, 
which is open from an early hour in the morning 
till four in the afternoon; and, during the time 
of the performance of the band, the room is 
well filled with company. The remuneration 
for drinking the water here is left entirely to the 
liberality of the visitor; no specific demand 
being made. To those persons who are fond of 
bustle and gaiety, this promenade in the Pump- 
Room will be found highly attractive. In no 
place in Bath does an hour pass away more 
agreeably. On quitting this lively scene for 
Stall-Street, on the left, is the King's Bath. It 
is a respectable building, and the dimensions of 
which are 65 feet 10 inches, by 40 feet 10 
inches; and when at its usual height, it contains 
346 tuns, 2 hogsheads, and 36 gallons of water. 
It is extremely convenient for bathing; and on 
one side is a covering, supported by a handsome 
colonnade, to shade the bathers from the incle- 
mency of the weather. It has also two rooms, 
for ladies and gentlemen, in which are pumps 
for pouring the hot water on the part affected, 









\ 







WALKS THROUGH BATH. 95 

instead of immersing the whole body, considered 
by the physicians as far more salutary in certain 
disorders. An apartment is also attached, where 
the water may be used by the patient as an in- 
jection, which is denominated the " steaming- 
room:" this mode of application has been found 
of great service in violent complaints of the in- 
testines. This bath is about eleven hours in 
filling : and its heat, by Farenheit's thermometer, 
116 degrees; and is kept full, for the accommo- 
dation of the public, from the earliest time in 
the morning till noon. 

In 1699, a statue of king Bladud was erected 
in this bath, under which is the following in- 
scription : 

Bladud, 

Son of Lud Hudibras, 

Eighth King of the Britons from Brute, 

A great Philosopher and Mathematician, 

Bred at Athens, 

And recorded the first Discoverer and Founder of these Baths, 

Eight Hundred and Sixty-three years before Christ ; 

That is, 

Two Thousand Five Hundred and Sixty-two Years, 

To the present Year, 

One Thousand Six Hundred and Ninety-nine. 

The Queen's Bath, so called after Queen 
Anne, consort to James I. and is attached to the 
King's Bath, which is a square of 25 feet, but 
of a lower temperature, although supplied with 
water from it through an arch. In the centre 
of the above bathing places stand the 



98 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

Bath- Street is directly opposite to the above 
baths, and gives a sort of finish to this part of 
the town. It is full of excellent shops, with a 
colonnade on each side of the way for passengers 
to walk under. At the bottom of this street, in 
the centre of the road, stands the Cross Bath, 
an elegant edifice, of a triangular shape; it has 
no private bath attached to it, but it possesses a 
neat pump-room. The Hot Bath, so called 
from the superior heat of its waters, stands 
about 120 feet south-west of the former, and is 
56 feet square. It was built by the late John 
Wood, and its accommodations are excellent. 
The pump-room is particularly convenient for 
the invalid to be carried or wheeled into, there 

puris naturalibus, which was, at length, prohibited by Bishop 
Beckyngton, who ordered, by way of distinction, the 
wearing of breeches and petticoats. This indecency was 
suppressed, after considerable difficulty, at the end of the 
sixteenth century. It also seems, that, about 1700, it was 
the fashion for both sexes to bathe together indiscriminately ; 
and the ladies used to decorate their heads with all the ad- 
vantages of dress, as a mode of attracting attention, and 
heightening their charms. The husband of a lady in one 
of the baths, in company with Beau Nash> was so much 
enraptured with the appearance of his wife, that he very 
imprudently observed, u she looked like an angel, and he 
wished to be with her." Nash immediately seized him by 
the collar, and threw him into the bath ; this circumstance 
produced a duel, and Nash was wounded in his right arm : 
it, however, had the good effect of establishing the reputation 
of Nash, who, shortly afterwards, became master of the 
ceremonies. 




^ 









WALKS THROUGH BATH. 99 

being no steps to ascend. Over the pump is 
placed the following poetry, from one of the 
poet laureates : 

" Hygeia broods with watchful wing 

" O'er ancient Badon's mystic spring; 

" And speeds from its sulphureous source 

11 The steamy torrent's secret course; 

u And fans the eternal sparks of hidden fire 
" In deep unfathom'd beds below, 
" By Bladud's magic taught to glow; 

" Bladud ! high theme of Fancy's Gothic lyre.*' 

At all periods of the year, it seems, the most 
proper time for bathing is in the morning fast- 
ing; but, before the patient goes into either of 
the baths, a due preparation is necessary. The 
time of remaining in the bath must also be regu- 
lated by medical advice. So many treatises 
have also been written upon the propriety of 
drinking these waters, that it would swell out 
these pages too much to make any extracts from 
them: it will, therefore, suffice, that it is gene- 
rally understood, in the gout they strengthen 
the habit; in rheumatisms of long standing, the 
Bath waters afford most effectual relief; and in 
indigestion, they powerfully alleviate the dis- 
tressing sinkings of a disordered stomach. In 
some cases of the palsy, they also tend to give 
new power of motion to the affected limbs ; and, 
in the obstructions and irregularities of the fe- 
male habit, the internal use of these waters sel- 



100 WALKS THROUGH BATH, 

doni fail in removing that pallid and sickly ap- 
pearance which these disorders generally occa- 
sion. In biliary obstructions and in cutaneous 
eruptions they are known to effect great cures. 

To the right of the Cross Bath is the Eye- 
Infirmary, supported by voluntary contributions. 
It is of recent date, but a most excellent esta- 
blishment, and has already proved of essential 
benefit to those persons afflicted with bad eyes. 
Hetling-Court, which is contiguous to the 
above bath, contains St. John's Chapel, which is 
a neat building, and was rebuilt, in 1723 3 by 
Mr. Killegrew. Divine service is performed 
twice a day, between the hours of eleven and 
three. Annexed to this chapel is St. John's 
Hospital, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, 
founded in the reign of Henry II. by Reginald 
Fitz-Jocelain, bishop of this see, for the support 
of six aged poor men and six women, belonging 
to the City of Bath, who have each an apart- 
ment, coals, and 45. 8d. per week. The master 
must be a clergyman of the established church. 
In quitting this court, West gate-Buildings, a 
plain neat row of houses, appear opposite. On 
turning to the left is the Yeomanry-Office, and 
next door to which is Hetling-House, where 
the Bath and West of England Society for 
the Encouragement of Agriculture, Ar^ts, Manu- 
factures, and Commerce meet. It was establish- 
ed by Mr. Edmund Rack, in 1777, a native of 
Norfolk. The late highly respected Duke of 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 101 

'Bedford was one of its presidents ; and, to per- 
petuate his memory, a fine bust of the duke, 
done by Nollekins, is placed in the rooms be- 
longing to the society. It is considered one of 
the first institutions of the kind in England. A 
subscription of one guinea per annum enables 
a person to become a member, with the right of 
voting. The Marquis of Lansdown is the present 
president. In crossing tiie road, the visitor ar- 
rives in St. James's Parade, a wide paved situa- 
tion, but no thoroughfare for carriages. It has 
a very respectable appearance ; the houses on 
both sides of it are uniform, and it contains the 
Quakers' Meeting- House ; this latter building is 
plain and neat, with a capacious gallery, and 
completely characteristic with the ideas of this 
friendly sect of people. In Corn-Street is the 
Bath and Bath Forum Free School, capable of 
containing 400 children, nearly which number, 
of all religions, have been taught in it at one 
time. It is under the patronage of the mayor 
and corporation of Bath : annual subscribers of 
one guinea may recommend two boys ; those of 
two, five boys. Those children who do not be- 
long to any regular Sunday schools are obliged 
to attend here on the sabbath-dav, and attend 
divine service, under the care of a master, at the 
Abbey Church. This Free School reflects the 
highest credit on the City of Bath. The above 
Parade leads to Horse- Street, which is rather a 
bustling thoroughfare, full of shops, and business 

K 2 



102 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

forms its peculiar feature. It is the direct road 
to Bristol, and the numerous stage-coaches aud 
other vehicles, continually passing and repassing 
through it, render Horse-Street more noisy and 
less attractive than most of the other parts of 
the City. On turning to the right is Bradley's 
Buildings, but nothing of importance attracts the 
eye of the visitor till he shortly arrives at the Old 
or Bath Bridge, consisting of five small arches, 
which connects Bath with Holloway. It is built 
of stone, but nothing imposing about it, as to 
appearance. Originally it was erected in the 
reign of Edward III. previous to which period, 
the citizens, at great inconvenience, were com- 
pelled to cross the river with their merchandizes 
and wares, at a ford a little above it, and grant- 
ed to the monks of Bath in 1304. In 1754, the 
old bridge was pulled down, and the present 
one, which still retains the name of " O/rf," was 
erected by the corporation. In returning, on 
the other side of the way are the Exeter and 
Golden Lion Inns, at each of which stages to 
London and Bristol are continually calling for 
passengers, and where good ordinaries are also 
held daily. Turning to the right is Weymouth- 
Street, at the corner of which is St, James s 
Church. This place of worship is built in the 
modern Gothic style with free-stone. Within its 
walls it is 61 feet long, by 58 wide ; and was de- 
signed by Mr. Palmer, architect, of Bath. Its 
interior is prepossessing; and no monuments ar<> 




lid&slueL hu Sher-~ccd.& CfJfaci z&J. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 103 

permitted to be erected to spoil the simplicity 
and elegance of its general appearance. The 
roof is supported by four Ionic columns, in the 
middle of which is an elegant lantern, capable 
of illuminating the whole church. The paint- 
ing over the communion-table, at the east end, 
of Christ breaking the bread and delivering it to 
the disciples who journeyed with him to Emmaus, 
scarcely meets the approbation of any spectator. 
It, however, possesses the best organ in the 
City ; and has also eight bells in the tower, at 
the west end, of a fine musical tone. It is ex- 
tremely well attended. Turning into Abbey- 
Gate-Street is Crutweli's " Bath ChronicLe 
Office. " This newspaper, which was always 
considered oue of the most elegant printed pro- 
vincial journals in the kingdom, Mr. CrutweU, 
in commemoration of her late Majesty's visit to 
Bath, had a new type cast expressly on purpose, 
and every thing to correspond, so as to produce 
a chef-d'oeuvre in newspaper printing, and who 
had the honour of presenting it to her Majesty, 
who most graciously received the same, and ex- 
pressed her approbation, not only upon this com- 
pliment offered to her on her visit to Bath, but 
of the great improvement made in this depart- 
ment of literature. In this street is also situated 
the Lancasterian School. It is a large circular 
building, and well adapted for this most excel- 
lent and quick mode of instructing youth. Up- 
wards of 500 children are taught here gratui 



104 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

tously. Too much praise cannot be bestowed 
upon an institution like the above, which has for 
its object to instruct poor children in reading, 
writing, and arithmetic ; and which is supported 
by charitable donations. Proceed through a 
small square, called Abbey-Green, into Abbey- 
Street. In this latter place are situated the well- 
constructed and convenient baths, called the 
Duke of Kingston's, or the Abbey Baths, now 
belonging to Earl Manvers. The renter of these 
baths (which are supplied from the same source 
as the King's Bath and Great Pump-Room, to 
which they are contiguous) is Dr. Wilkinson, 
who has paid peculiar attention towards render- 
ing them convenient and extensive in their ap- 
plication, in every point of view; and also add- 
ing a very comfortable pump-room. As a che- 
mist, Dr. Wilkinson is considered very eminent 
in his profession; and by artificial means he has 
produced waters with a similar effect to those 
of Harrowgate, Cheltenham, and the warm 
springs of Germany. Opposite to the Kingston 
Pump-Room is a small neat building, in which 
the Bath Literary and Philosophical Society 
hold their meetings. 

Owing to the following advertisement, which 
appeared in the Bath newspapers, at the end of 
the year 1815, the above useful and intellectual 
Society met with the most rapid patronage and 
success. 

The great advantages which have been derived from 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 105 

Various scientific institutions in London, Manchester, Liver- 
pool, Newcastle, &c. have induced Dr. Wilkinson to 
propose the appropriation of the Kingston Lecture Room to 
the purposes of a similar institution in this city. This room 
is already supplied with an extensive assortment of philoso- 
phical and chemical apparatus, furnaces, &c. calculated for 
the illustration of most subjects connected with the arts and 
manufactures. 

It is presumed that all ladies and gentlemen interested in 
any of the various objects relative to the different branches 
of experimental philosophy, chemistry, geology, mineralogy, 
and their application to the arts, manufactures, agriculture, 
&c. would derive considerable advantages from being mem- 
bers of a society, formed of some who may be acquainted 
with the principles of the different sciences, and of others, 
who, from being engaged in commercial and manufacturing 
establishments, are capable of imparting valuable practical 
information. 

Hence it will be desirable to have among its members such 
as, from their occupations, are engaged in iron founderies, 
breweries, glass-houses, &c. and that all respectable commer- 
cial and agricultural persons be deemed admissible to the 
institution . 

To parents, it will afford a desirable opportunity of a 
weekly rational recreation for their sons ; by thus early ex- 
panding their minds, it may contribute considerably to their 
future respectability in society. 

In consequence of the above public invitation, 

a first meeting took place on January 8th, 1816, 

which was numerously attended, and the utility 

of the plan met with such general approbation, 

that near one hundred persons became members, 

and agreed to the following resolutions: — 

1st, — That the meetings of the society be on every Mon- 
dav evening during the year, excepting the months of June, 



106 WALKS THEOUGH BATH. 

July, August, and September, at half-past seven, and to 
close at half-past nine. 

2d, — The first part of the evening, not exceeding one 
hour, to be appropriated to the communication, from any of 
its members, of different interesting subjects connected with 
the objects of the society, and of proposals relative to expe- 
riments desired to be tried. The remaining part of the 
evening to be devoted to the reading and discussion of any 
paper presented to the society, or of any communication re- 
lative to literature, experimental philosophy, chemistry, geo- 
logy, mineralogy, mechanics, &c. from any of its members. 

3d, — That each member shall be entitled to introduce 
each evening a lady, or a young gentleman, under sixteen 
years of age ; or may be permitted to introduce a friend, if 
not under the above condition, so that the said friend shall 
not be introduced more than twice in the same session. — No 
person, not a member, can be admitted without a card signed 
by the member by whom he is introduced. 

4th, — That all members of this society are free to all the 
lectures delivered by Dr. Wilkinson, in the Kingston Lec- 
ture-Room. 

5th, — After the first meeting of the society, each person 
subsequently admitted a member must be recommended by 
two subscribers to the institution. 

6th, — That there be three presidents, a secretary, and 
experimentalist. 

7th, — Each subscriber to pay, on his admission, two gui- 
neas and five shillings, and the same sum annually. 

8th, — Visitors to Bath mav be admitted as members for 
three months, upon being properly introduced, and paying 
one guinea and five shillings. 

&3=> Ladies and gentlemen disposed to become members, 
are requested to have their names entered in the society's 
subscription-book, at the Kingston Pump-Room. 

The session is from the first Monday in October to the 
last Monday in May. — The subscription of each member to 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 107 

be dated from the period of the name being entered on the 
book. 

Since the short commencement of this literary 
institution, not only has much amusement been 
derived from the talents of its members, but 
also much practical good has been obtained 
from the various improvements pointed out in 
chemistry, mechanics, &c. from their exertions. 

To the right is Kingston- Buildings, in which 
stands the Post-Office, where, perhaps, the anxi- 
ety to receive letters, the pleasure of perusing 
them, and the necessity of taking refreshment, 
will hasten the return of the visitor through Mil- 
som-Street to the York-Hotel, when he will 
doubtless be perfectly satisfied with this day's 
walk, and the interesting objects which have laid 
claim to his attention. 



108 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 



WALK II. 



From the South- Wing of Sydney-Place through Dar- 
lington-Street, pass Church-Street, (New Church 
of St. Mary Bathwick). After a short dis- 
tance on the New Road to Widcombe, turn down on 
the right and pass Waterloo-Gardens. A Walk 
alongside of the Avon to the Ferry. C?*oss the 
River to the South Parade, through Duke- 
Street, to the North Parade. Pass Pierrepoint- 
Street, to the OLD ROOMS ; from thence through 
Orange-Grove, Church-Street, into York-Street 
(New Freemasons' Hall). Cross Stall-Street, 
through Bath-Street, to the Bath Antiquities. 
Return home by the Ferry, through Darlington- 
Street, to Sydney-Place. 



Presuming the visitor to have taken up his 
residence at the south wing of Sydney-Place^ it 
is not improper to remark, that none of the ad- 
mired buildings in Bath reflect greater credit 
upon the talents of the various architects than 
this part of the city and its adjoining streets, 
which have to boast of great beauty of elevation, 
and conveniency of erection. Sydney-Place, 
produced under the design and superintendence 
of Mr. Pinch, is a most admirable specimen of 
modern architecture, and the uniformity which 
may be formed of Bath-stone. The above 
houses are all the production from one quarry, 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 109 

in which not the least flaw or variety of colour 
can be discovered: they also form, as it were, 
one compact building, and the spectator feels 
impressed with its pleasing appearance. The 
pavement before the houses is unusually broad ; 
a carriage- road also divides it from Sydney- Gar- 
dens, and upon the whole it is a desirable, resi- 
dence. On turning to the left, through Darling- 
ton-Street, the new church of St. Marv, at Bath- 
wick, bursts upon the spectator with a most 
interesting effect, more especially from the 
cream-coloured freshness of the free stone. It 
is built after the modern Gothic style. The ex- 
tent of the building is 126 feet by 60 ; and, the 
tower is 100 feet high, containing eight bells. 
The windows on each side illumine the lower 
aisle and the gallery; but a range of windows 
are made still higher, on a new principle, on the 
side, to throw in the light, instead of windows 
upon the top in the form of a skylight. The 
battlements are five feet from the church; and, 
the four pinnacles, at the corner of the tower, are 
fifteen feet higher. The moulds for the church 
were cut by John Turby, a native of Bath. The 
ceiling is of the most beautiful description. The 
ground was given by the Earl of Darlington. 
The first stone of this church was laid on 
Thursday, September 1, 1814, bearing the fol- 
lowing curious inscription: — 

Glory to God in the highest — on earth Peace. 
The most sanguinary conflict ever recorded in the annals 

L 



110 WALKS THROUGH RATH. 

of History had ceased, and the downfall of Napoleon, the 
Despot of France, had taken place, when the Nations of 
Europe became united in the bond of Peace. At such a 
joyful period, and on ihe 1st day of September, in the year 
of our Lord 1814, the foundation-stone of Bathvvick New 
Church, dedicated to Saint Paul, was laid. 
The Right Hon. Harry Earl of Darlington, Lord of the Manor. 
The Right Rev. Richard, Lord Bishop of the Diocese. 
The Rev. Peter Gunning, Rector. 
Mr. Jeremy Wilsher, Mr. Edward Tucker, Churchwardens. 

COMMITTEE. 



Mr. Thomas Gibbons. 
J. Leaper Newton, Esq. 
Mr. Robert Offer. 
Mr. William Price. 
John Rye, Esq. 
Mr. William Wilsher. 



Edward Atkinson, Esq. 
Edward Barlow, M.D. 
Mr. James Christie. 
Mr. Thomas Cottell. 
Mr. George Evill. 
Wyndham Goodden, Esq. 
Mr. James Goodridge. 

Mr. James Goodridge — Mr. W. Price, Building-Surveyors. 

Mr. Walter Harris, Builder. — Mr. J. Pinch, Architect. 

Mr. Samuel Evill, Conscripsit. — W. Gingell, Sculpsit. 

The removal of the Old Church of Baih- 
wick, which was in a most ruinous state, and 
also from the vast and increasing population of 
this extensive parish found to be much too 
small, the erection of the above new elegant 
structure upon its ruins, not only tends to give 
an additional air of importance to the situation 
of Great Pulteney -Street, but to render satisfac- 
tion and comfort to all its piously-disposed in- 
habitants. From the very liberal subscrip- 
tions which have been received towards its 
erection, it is supposed, scarcely any additional 
rates will be levied upon the parishioners. 




Jh-av^ 






Ociz- y?1zatf?ds. 



?ubUs?Lui i-j SAirtvficaL and C? Uhv.i iJi*. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. Ill 

On quitting Bathwick Church the visitor pro- 
ceeds along the New Road to Widcombe, in the 
middle of which, a path on the right, through 
the fields, leads to the Ferry. The venerable 
abbey is here seen to much advantage, and the 
elevated buildings on the other side of the City 
also add to the prospect. Pass Waterloo-Gardens, 
to view which, threepence is charged for an ad- 
mission; it, however, may be engaged for select 
parties. The gardens are small, but contain 
some pleasing walks, and the use of a swing. In 
turning round from this place, the South Parade 
and the Old Rooms now appear to the eye 
of the spectator. On approaching to the river- 
side, on the right is a walk alongside the 
Avon to Pulteney -Bridge. The surrounding 
view from this precise spot is extremely pic- 
turesque. This bridge, which consists of three 
arches, was erected by the late Sir William Pul- 
teney, as a communication with the City ; and 
shops and houses are erected upon each side 
of it. In passing over it, in Bridge-Street, the 
passenger perceives no traces of a bridge ; and 
it is only along the Avon that it is to be dis- 
covered. On the left, proceeding towards the 
Ferry, a view of Pryor-Park, and the houses in 
Widcombe, are in front of the visitor, who now 
descends a flight of stone steps to cross the 
Avon in the boat, for which one penny is de- 
manded. Drags and other apparatus are left 
at the Ferry-house, by the Humane Society, in 
case of any persons being drowned. On land 



112 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

ing, the South Parade is gained, which has 
a good look-out ; the houses are large, and have 
a most respectable appearance. In the middle 
of this Parade is Duke-Street, which leads to 
the North Parade, once so much the fashion- 
able resort and grand promenade of the visitors 
of Bath. It has a very broad elegant terrace, 
and possesses an air of much grandeur, with 
stone ballustrades and iron-railing. The view 
here, though not so extensive as from many of 
the other lodging houses, is nevertheless good. 
Pierrepoint- Street, a respectable place of resi- 
dence, is at the end of the Parade. These 
houses are extremely convenient for the frequen- 
ters of the Old or Kingston Rooms, which are 
situated but a few yards from the North Parade, 
The above original elegant suite of public 
rooms, which form one of the most lively and 
interesting features of Bath, so conspicuous to- 
wards supporting the prosperity of the old city, 
were formerly part of the estate of the late Duke 
of Kingston, but now belonging to Earl Man- 
vers. Since their first erection thev have under- 
gone a variety of alterations and improvements,, 
and in 1750 they were almost rebuilt. The 
assembly-room is 90 feet long, 36 broad, and 34 
high. The card-room adjoining to it is 60 feet 
in length, and 30 in breadth. Here are also two 
tea-rooms, 40 feet by 24 each. It has a reading- 
room, well furnished with maps, books, reviews, 
newspapers, &c. An apartment is also devoted 
to the games of chess and backgammon; and 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 113 

another for billiards. The rooms are totally 
distinct from each other. The terms are £1 : 6s. 
for the year, always ending on the 30th of Sep- 
tember; and for six months, £1. It is now two 
separate establishments, one of which is elegantly 
fitted up for the accommodation of the Bath 
and West of England Club. The latter invite 
the company to the amusement of a fancy or 
undress ball on Tuesday, and a dress ball on 
Friday nights, during the winter season. There 
is some little variation in these rooms from the 
upper. Those balls held on Tuesday nights are 
continued to the hour of twelve; and, the day 
promenade is heightened by a most delightful 
view of the country contiguous to Bath. Till 
the year 1771, the Kingston Rooms continued 
to be the only place of public resort ; but, upon 
the opening of the Upper or New Rooms, the in- 
fluence and attraction of the latter, though gra- 
dually operating as a great drawback to its com- 
pany, in fact so seriously, that in 1810, it was 
deemed necessary to lay out a large sum of 
money in splendid decorations, in order to revive 
and create attention. A grand portico was also 
added to its entrance, the architecture of which 
is particularly admired : and Earl Manvers has 
also made cairiage-roads to this new entrance, 
over part of the North and South Parade, and 
also from Stall-Street, at a considerable sacrifice 
of his land and houses, in order that " this old 
spot" might not suffer neglect, and over which the 

L2 



114 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

English Roscius observed, with much animation, 
" the genius of Bath would always hover and 
preside." The visitor is much delighted in view- 
ing these elegant rooms, at which the balls and 
amusements are regulated by the following rules, 
adopted at a general meeting of the subscribers, 
who also possess the exclusive right of voting at 
an election of Master of the Ceremonies. 

" KINGSTON ASSEMBLY ROOMS, 
" November 19th, 1816. 
u In order to preserve decorum, and maintain respectability, 
at the balls, at these rooms, resolved, 

" That every ticket transferred to a lady shall bear the 
name both of the lady and the subscriber transferring the 
same, otherwise it can on no account be received. 

" That non-subscribers may be admitted to the balls on 
being introduced by a subscriber, or by leaving their names 
at the rooms for the master of the ceremonies. 
" The renter having agreed to furnish the music, viz. 1 harp, 4 

violins, 1 violoncello, 2 clarionets, and 1 tambourine, for thirty 

balls, including the master of the ceremonies 1 winter and 

spring balls, resolved, 

" That these rooms shall be opened for the reception of 
the company at eight o'clock in the evening, a quarter of an 
hour before which time they shall be regularly and properly 
lighted up ; and, the master of the ceremonies shall attend 
to receive the company, and an overture be played by the 
band at half-past eight o'clock ; after which the dancing 
shall commence, and cease at twelve o'clock precisely, al- 
though in the middle of a dance. 

" That the upper benches shall be reserved for ladies of 
the rank of peeresses. 

" That ladies, according to their precedence; shall be en- 
titled at all times to their appropriate places at the top in the 
set; but other ladies standing up after the dance is com- 
menced, shall take their places at the bottom of the set ; and 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 115 

every lady who shall have danced down the set, is expected 
not to sit down till that dance shall be finished. 

" That ladies may change partners every two dances. 

" That it be left at the option of the ladies to dance with 
whom they please; and their declining any particular part- 
ner shall not prevent their dancing with another. 

" That no gentleman be admitted in boots, half-boots, co- 
loured pantaloons, or trowsers, unless an officer in uniform 
and on duty, ami then without their swords. 

" That every person pay sixpence for their tea on ball- 
nights. 

" Ladies proposing to dance minuets, shall announce their 
intentions to the master of the ceremonies on the day prece- 
ding the ball, and shall be in the rooms appropriately dressed 
punctually at half-past eight o'clock. 

[' That no person shall be allowed to insert their names as 
subscribers, or be admitted as visitors to these balls, who 
carry on any occupation in the retail line of business, the 
master of the ceremonies' ball-nights excepted. 

" The master of the ceremonies shall use his utmost en- 
deavours to enforce the several foregoing resolutions, and he 
will be supported by the subscribers in the performance of 
his duty. 

" Terms. — A subscription of 14s. will entitle the sub- 
scriber to admission on each ball-night. — A subscription of 
26s. will entitle the subscriber to admission on each ball-night, 
and also to two tickets transferrable by endorsement to ladies 
only. 

The present master of the ceremonies is Cap- 
tain Marshall, who was elected to this situa- 
tion in November, 1817. 

To the man, with whom the merit originated 
of rescuing one of the poorest cities in England 
from its poverty and obscurity, and leaving it, 
(entirely from his great exertions,) not only capa- 



116 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

ble of vying with the most elegant built city in 
Europe, but equally conspicuous for the polite- 
ness of its amusements, and elegance of its ac- 
commodations, some small tribute of acknow- 
ledgement is certainly due to his memory. 

The history of Beau Nash, however, has 
been so often written by various hands — his bon 
mots repeated over and over again in most fa- 
shionable companies — and his general character 
so very familiar, more especially with every 
person the least acquainted with polished society, 
that at the present period, (1819,) fifty-two years 
after his death, it can scarcely be expected that 
little, if any, new matter can be added to his 
biography, and that the same beaten track re- 
specting this once celebrated hero of fashion 
must, of necessity, again be trodden, in his con- 
nection with our " Walks through Bath." 

Long reigu'd the great Nash, this omnipotent lord, 

Respected by youth, and by parents ador'd. 

For him not enough at a ball to preside, 

The unwary and beautiful nymph would he guide ; 

Oft tell her a tale, how the credulous maid, 

By man, perfidious man, is betray'd; 

Taught Charity's hand to relieve the distress'd, 

While tears have his tender compassion express'd. 

But, alas ! he is gone, and the city can tell, 

How in years and in glory lamented he fell. 

How mourned all the dryads on Claverton's mount, 

Him Avon deplored, him the nymph of the fount, 

The chrystalline streams. 

Then perish his picture, his statue decay ! 

A tribute more lasting the muses shall pay, 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 117 

If true what philosophers all will assure us, 

Who dissent from the doctrine of great Epicurus, 

That the spirit's immortal, as poets allow, 

If life's occupations are followed below ; 

lu reward of his labours, his virtues, and pains, 

He is footing it now in th' Elysian plains, 

Indulg'd as a token of Proserpine's favour, 

To preside at her balls in a cream colour'd beaver. 

It appears, from all his biographers, (one of 
which was no less than the celebrated Goldsmith,) 
that the above distinguished character was born 
at Swansea, in the county of Glamorgan, the 
18th of October, 1674; his father possessing a 
haudsome income, chiefly derived from a glass- 
man u factory there. On his mother's side his 
descent was more respectable, she being the 
niece of Colonel Poyer, who was executed by 
Oliver Cromwell, for defendiug valiantly the 
castle of Pembroke on behalf of the unfortunate 
Charles the First. At Carmarthen, Mr. Nash 
received the elements of education, and a com- 
petent share of classical knowledge, which he 
was sent to the University of Oxford to improve 
at the earlv a^e of sixteen. Here he entered at 
Jesus College, with an intention to pursue the 
study of the law. But he had mistaken his 
turn; the dry code of civil jurisprudence was 
ill calculated to fix the attention of one whose 
disposition was naturally gay and volatile. Nash 
devoted himself to pleasure, instead of acts of 
parliament; involved himself in an intrigue with 



118 WALKS THKOUGH BATH. 

a knowing female in the neighbourhood of the 
University, and was on the eve of sacrificing all 
his prospects to a very disproportioned marriage 
in point of age and fortune, when his friends 
discovered the amour, and instantly removed 
the young enamorato from the sphere of his mis- 
tress's attractions. He then purchased a pair of 
colours, and became a soldier. But he soon 
found that he had pleased himself with ideal 
delights; and his rank did not lift him above 
subordination. H?, therefore, quitted the army 
in disgust, returned to the discarded law, and 
entered himself a student of the Middle-Temple. 
He now became a town fine gentleman of the 
second rate; dressing tawdrily; affecting public 
places; and dividing his time between play and 
the ladies. Nash shortly after became a public 
character, by the following circumstance: — At 
the time of William's accession to the throne, 
our hero was a member of the Temple, where he 
had acquired the credit of wit, gallantry, and 
elegance. And upon the Society's entertaining 
the new Monarch with a revel and a pageant, 
Nash's fame for taste and gaiety rendered him 
the fittest person for the office of high-priest on 
this occasion ; and William, indeed, offered to 
knight Nash ; but our hero, who seems to have 
had sense enough to despise the unsubstantial 
mockery of a title Without the palpable comfort 
of a good income attached to it, declined the 
intended honour. In the year 1704, Nash went 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 119 

down to Bath, which was then just beginning to 
be a place of fashionable resort; and a vacancy 
happeniug about the same time in the office of 
Master of the Ceremonies, by the loss of Captain 
Webster, the well-known talent of Nash for the 
invention of amusement, and the promotion of 
dissipation, became a powerful recommendation 
to his succeeding to the important situation of 
Arbiter Elegant iarum. He was accordingly 
elected; and invested with the fullest power to 
order, arrange, correct, and improve, the man- 
ners of the company, the routine of amusements, 
and the points of etiquette. Uncontrouled as 
was the authority thus delegated to him, it must 
be confessed he deserves great credit in having 
exercised it entirely for the public good. Under 
his auspices, Bath quickly emerged from that 
obscurity in which it had been hidden for ages, 
to splendour, elegance, and taste. The old 
roads to it were repaired and improved, and new 
approaches made: public charities were institu- 
ted, (one of which, the General Hospital, will 
prove an imperishable monument of the feeling 
traits of his benevolent disposition;) places of 
amusement constructed; the pumps and baths 
furnished with new accommodations; and the 
motley crew of visitors, which met together at 
the place of general resort, was reduced to order 
and propriety of conduct. Nash was the first 
person that prohibited the wearing of swords in 
the Public Rooms, which, at that period, no well- 



120 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

dressed man of fashion was ever seen without, 
alleging as one reason, that they discomposed the 
dresses of the ladies ; but the real fact was, 
these instruments of death were too often re- 
sorted to in the heat of play, producing serious 
and calamitous events. Yet, it appears, that 
swords were worn a long time after at the 
public places of resort; but were, at length, 
finally " prohibited being worn at Bath," 
through the decided interference of Nash, in 
consequence of a duel having been fought by 
torch-light, between two noted black legs, of 
the names of Clarke and Taylor. And after a 
most desperate opposition, the efforts of Nash 
finally triumphed over the wearing boots in the 
Assembly Rooms, to the great discomfiture of 
the ' Squire Western part of the creation. In 
order, it should seem, generally to ridicule 
human nature out of its numerous weaknesses, 
the following lively, yet interesting and harmless, 
piece of satire, written by Nash, was, till very 
lately, hung up in the rooms, and afforded much 
amusement to its various perusers : — 

" Rules by general Consent determined. 

" I. That a visit of ceremony at coming to Bath, and 
another at going away, is all that is expected or desired by 
ladies of quality and fashion — except impertinents. 

" II. That ladies coming to the ball appoint a time for 
their footmen's coming to wait on them home, to prevent 
disturbances and inconveniences to themselves and others. 

" III. That gentlemen of fashion never appearing in a 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 121 

morning before the ladies in gowns and caps, shew breeding 
and respect. 

" IV. That no person take it ill that any one goes to ano- 
ther's play or breakfast, and not to their's — except captious 
by nature. 

" V. That no gentleman give his tickets for the balls to 
any but gentlewomen. — N. B. Unless he has none of his 
acquaintance. 

?« VI. That gentlemen crowding before the ladies at the 
ball shew ill manners ; and that none do so for the future — 
except such as respect nobody but themselves. 

" VII. That no gentleman or lady take it ill that another 
dances before them — except such as have no pretence to 
dance at all. 

«' VIII. That the elder ladies and children be contented 
with a second bench at the ball, as being past, or not come 
to, perfection. 

" IX. That the younger ladies take notice how many eyes 
observe them. — N. B. This does not extend to the Have-at- 
Alls. 

" X. That all whisperers of lies and scandal be taken for 
their authors. 

" XI. That all repeaters of such lies and scandal be 
shunned by all company — except such as have been guilty 
of the same crime. 

tC N.B. Several men ot no character, old women, and 
young ones of questioned reputation, are great authors of 
lies in this place, being of the sect of levellers." 

Under his equal administration no rank could 
shield the criminal from punishment, if the code 
of laws established by Nash had been infringed ; 
and no dignity of situation influence him to 
allow a breach or temporary suspension of them. 
When the Duchess of Queensberry appeared at 
the dress-ball in an apron, he deliberately de- 

M 



122 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

sired her to take it off, which she instantly 
complied with, and begged his acceptance of 
it; and when the Princess Amelia applied to 
him for one more dance after eleven o'clock, 
he refused, assuring her that the laws of Bath 
were, like those of Lycurgus, unalterable. 
The influence which this firmness in his govern- 
ment gave him in the little world of Bath 
was unbounded, and Nash took care to preserve 
and increase it by a considerable affectation of 
splendour in his dress and equipage ; aware that 
external appearance has a powerful and visible 
effect on the largest part of mankind, the weak 
and the vain, and that the wise and the good 
are not entirely insensible to it, though in an 
inferior degree. Consistently with this just view 
of human nature, his house was richly furnished ; 
his chariot was drawn by six gray horses, several 
persons on horseback and on foot attending the 
carriage, bearing French-horns and other instru- 
ments of music; his clothes were profusely de- 
corated with lace, and his head crowned with a 
large white hat, cocked up in a fierce and sin- 
gular manner. He kept one coachman, a postil- 
lion, two footmen in livery, a gentleman out of 
livery, and a running footman. It is said of 
this latter person, who was an Irishman, that he 
frequently run from Bath to London in a day ; 
and was equally as swift on his return * the next, 

* The strength of man seems much to have degenerated 
of late years, if the above statement is viewed as a fact ; 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 123 

but having " died one day' % when engaged in 
this active pursuit, his numerous good-natured 
blunders often served to enrich the jokes of 
Nash. This was the meridian of Nash's glory. 
The Prince of Wales, and the Prince of Orange, 
gave him marks of their esteem ; the nobility of 
Bath flattered him with their familiarity ; the 
gentry treated him with respect; and the Corpo- 
ration always consulted him in every public step 
in which they engaged; a sum of money was 
voted by the chamber for the purpose of erect- 
ing a marble statue of the King of Bath, which, 
when finished, found an honourable station in 
the Pump-Room, between the busts of Newton 
and Pope; but the keen wit of Lord Chester- 
field could not pass over this happy opportunity 
of ridiculing so absurd an association. He 
wrote an epigram on the subject, concluding 
with the following lines: — 

" The Statue plac'd the Busts between* 

u Adds to the satire strength ; 
" Wisdom and Wit are little seen, 

" But Folly at full length." 

and, at the present day, it is very doubtful that a man could 
be found who would even attempt running to Bath, (the dis- 
tance of which is 10.5 miles,) with ail the advantages of the 
improved state of the roads, in twenty-four successive bours* 
without great preparation of training; but, to think of re- 
turning again on the next day, is entirely out of the question. 
If such a running footman could be found now-a-days, he 
would make a speedy fortune in the sporting world. 



124 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

The charity of Nash was extensive, and often 
well applied ; in 1739, when a very hard winter 
pressed heavily on the poor inhabitants of Bath, 
he entered many of their houses, and, to spare 
their feelings, he relieved them unasked. He 
also relieved the colliers and weavers, who came 
in a starving state to the City in a body, by 
commencing a subscription for them, putting- 
down ten guineas himself at the onset, and sent 
them home to their families with tears of grati- 
tude for his future welfare. His character 
abounds with numerous traits of benevolence ; 
and, it is said of him, that when unable to re- 
lieve those who sued to him for assistance, the 
tears have been seen to trickle down his cheeks. 
In fact, it was often carried to excess. A ruined 
gamester, who had witnessed Nash put a large 
sum of money into his pocket, with carelessness, 
observed, " such a sum would make him happy !" 
when Nash, without the slightest hesitation, upon 
overhearing his exclamation, put the money in his 
hands, saying, " go then and be happy !" From 
such a line of conduct Nash became extremely 
popular ; he was respected by the opulent, and 
the admiration of the poor, and his prosperity 
continued for a longer period than is usually 
allotted to public characters; his popularity 
undiminished, and his honours untarnished: an 
admirable skill in play provided amply for his 
enormous expenses, and his hilarity, gaiety, and 
easy address, as they contributed to the plea- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 125 

sure of society, gained him in return affection, 
if not esteem. But regard acquired by qualities 
which are not intrinsically excellent, can only 
be temporary. Those sprightly traits of cha- 
racter which may add a grace to youth, become 
ridiculous and disgusting in old age. The jest 
that pleases at twenty-five, will shock at seventy; 
nor can the most thoughtless contemplate with 
pleasure the man who, in the course of nature, 
must shortly change this being for another, idly 
busied about the frivolities of gay life, et totus 
in Wis. The public now began to treat Nash 
with neglect, and shortly with contempt. The 
great, whom he had served with such devotion, 
rewarded him — as they are accustomed to remu- 
nerate the instruments of their pleasures — by 
deserting him in the hour of need. Sickness 
attacked him, and poverty stared him in the 
face. These were evils against which he had 
provided no defence, and which therefore fell 
upon him with double weight. Sorrow and dis- 
tress clouded the closing evening of his days ; 
and reflection came too late for any other pur- 
pose than to display to him the disconsolate 
situation of that man, when he approaches his 
end, who has spent his whole life in playing the 
fool. 

The tree of deepest root is found, 
Least willing still to quit the ground ; 

M 2 



126 WALKS THROUGH BATH, 

'Twas therefore said by ancient sages, 

That love of life increas'd with years, 
So much that in our latter stages, 
When pains grow sharp, and sickness rages, 

The greatest love of life appears. 

This great affection to believe, 

Which all confess, but few perceive, 

Old Time, whose haste no mortal spares, 

Uncall'd, unheeded, unawares 
Brought on his eightieth year. 

At the advanced age of eighty -seven years, 
Mr. Nash died, at his house, in St. John's Court; 
Bath, on the 3d of February, 1761, sincerely 
regretted by every inhabitant of this City, and 
buried at the expense of the Corporation, with 
great respect and solemnity, in the Abbey 
Church. The masters of the Assembly-Rooms, 
following as chief mourners. His pall was sup- 
ported by six of the senior aldermen; and three 
clergymen preceded the coffin. The boys and 
girls of the charity-schools in couples, singing 
a hymn, and a band of music, playing a dirge. 
The tops of the houses, and the streets were 
crowded with spectators, to take a last farewell 
of this venerable founder and promoter of the 
interests connected with the City of Bath. 

Mr. Collett succeeded Mr. Nash ; a gentleman 
of real private worth ; but, in his capacity of 
Master of the Ceremonies, he stood in no com- 
petition with his great predecessor, and soon 
resigned his throne to Mr. Derrick. This latter 
gentleman also bore no resemblance to Mr. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 127 

Nash, except his wearing a white bat : he, how- 
ever, made it a lucrative situation, in taking a 
benefit during the season at each room. But, 
upon his death, in 1769, the vacant sceptre was 
contested with the most determined hostility, 
between Mr. Brereton and Mr. Plomer. Heaps 
of hand-bills, squibs, and scurrility, daily issued 
from the press, in which David Garrick, Esq. 
took an active part; and as the ladies had 
an equal right of voting, their conduct, upon 
this occasion, partook more of the purlieus of 
Happing than the refined circles of Bath. It, 
at length, became so disgraceful, and such a 
scene of riot and confusion ensued at the rooms, 
that the mayor appeared with his ofiicers, and 
the tumult was not appeased till after the town- 
clerk had read the Riot-Act three times. 

Arras, and the feuds I sing, of ladies fair : 

Of female wigs dethron'd ; dishevell'd hair ; 

Rent muslins ; laces torn ; eyes flashing fire ; 

Houg'd cheeks, more red with rage, and such chimeras dire. 

Then, let the tumult thicken : rouse each fair 
To calling odious names, and pulling hair; 
Let curses thunder, and let blows resound ; 
Torn lace and broken fans bestrew the ground ; 
And gray-hair'd scalps and wrinkl'd sculls deplore, 
The loss of wigs, wide scatter'd o'er the floor. 

Mr. Plomer and Mr. Brereton were, at length, 
induced to resign their pretensions in favour of 
Captain Wade, upon their receiving a benefit- 
ball at each of the rooms. Mr. Wade was the 



128 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

first Master of the Ceremonies who was pre- 
sented with a gold medallion of enamelled blue, 
set round with brilliants, to be worn as the 
ensignia of his office. On the one side is a raised 
figure of Venus, with a golden apple in one hand, 
and a rudder in the other ; the motto, Venus 
decens. The reverse is a wreath of laurel ; the 
motto, Arbiter elegantiarum commune consen- 
su ; and now worn by Mr. Heaviside at the Up- 
per Rooms. 

On quitting the Old Rooms, a few yards to 
the right brings the visitor into Orange-Grove, 
which is a charming open area, planted with rows 
of elm-trees, and from its contiguity to the vene- 
rable Abbey, gives it rather an interesting ap- 
pearance. It is 190 feet long, and 170 broad, 
and was formerly the principal seat of the amuse- 
ments of Bath. The houses are irregularly 
built; but notwithstanding this defect, it is a 
pleasant, although not an elegant residence. A 
small obelisk stands in the centre, erected by 
Beau Nash, with the following inscription, said 
to be written by Pope : — 

In meraoriam * 
Sanitatis 
Principi Auriaco 
Aquarum Thermalium puto 

* In memory of the happy restoration of the health 
of the Prince of Orange, by the drinking of the Bath 
waters, through the favour of God, and to the joy of 
Britain, 1734. 




1 



I 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 129 

Favente DEO 

Ovante Britannia 

Feliciter Restitutae. 

MDCCXXXlV. 

The left corner of Orange-Grove leads to the 
Post-Office, on passing which, turn down to the 
left into Church- Street , and the Freemasons' 
Hall immediately meets the eye of the spectator 
in York-Street. The above new and elegant 
structure built of free-stone is considered as a 
great ornament to Bath, and also adds to the im- 
portance of this part of the City; the exterior 
of which is viewed as a fine piece of Grecian 
architecture. It has a small portico in front, 
with pillars of the Ionic Order. On the top of 
the building are three figures extremely well ex- 
ecuted, symbols of masonry. On the left corner 
is Faith— in the centre, Charity with an in- 
fant—and on the right, is Hope. On the archi- 
trave is the following inscription: " FREE- 
MASONS' HALL, A. L. 5817." The idea 
first originated with Mr. Witney, a distin- 
guished Chemist, the corner of Union-Passage, 
Cheap-Street; and by his perseverance it was 
erected and finished. The plan of the above 
Hall also entirely belongs to Mr. Witney. The 
Architect, Mr. Wilkins, is the author of Magna 
Grecice. In the front of the building is a long 
range of Grecian iron-railing, quite nouvelle in 
Bath. The whole of the structure is strictly 



130 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

masonic, even to the triangular knockers out 
side of the doors. 

The interior of the building is very complete 
and convenient in all its various parts ; and well 
worthy of being visited. The great room, or 
hall, is 50 by 30 feet. It has two fire-places, 
with fluted pillars against the wall. Opposite 
the entrance from the hall- door, at the bottom 
of the room, stands the Master's chair, upon an 
elevation, with an ascent of three steps of black 
and white chequered marble, supported by two 
lions, the left and right foot of each are on balls, 
to correspond. Over the chair is a neat gallery, 
supported by light elegant pillars, in the centre 
of which is an exquisitely fine-toned organ. In 
the front of the gallery is the " ail-seeing eye/' 
handsomely painted ; and opposite to which, over 
the hall-door, is a compass and bevil to cor- 
respond. In the centre of the hall are two beau- 
tiful well-skylights, with handsome composition 
ornaments, and two elegant glass-chandeliers 
suspended by a chain from the top. It is about 
25 feet high ; and upon the whole it has a pleas- 
ing and interesting appearance : but is only used 
on particular occasions. Behind the Master's 
chair are two doors, one of which leads to the 
west staircase, with handsome iron rails and a 
mahogany top, down to the Lodge-Room, close 
to which is a small apartment for the Tyler. In 
this room, the lodges belonging to Bath, four in 



' WALKS THROUGH BATH. 131 

number, rneet upon alternate nights. It is large, 
with two fire-places in it, and an elevation at the 
bottom of the room for the chair ; it receives its 
light from two handsome Gothic windows. A 
double Gothic cornice goes all round the room, 
which has a very pretty effect. As a decided 
proof that the secrets of masonry are not all of 
a purely intellectual nature, contiguous to the 
Lodge-Room is a kitchen, which is rather narrow 
in dimensions, but furnished with cooking uten- 
sils, amply sufficient to furnish food for a large 
company at the London Tavern. The range is 
six feet eight inches long, two feet in depth, and 
its round bars, two inches thick. Its weight al- 
together is 900lbs. To the right of the range is 
a large stove, on the left an oven, and in the area, 
two very large coppers. The whole of the 
building cost £3000. Upon laying the first 
stone, the following inscription, engraved on a 
copper-plate, was placed under it:— 

" The foundation-stone of this Masonic Hall was laid with 
the usual ceremonies, July 28th, A. D. 1817, in the 57th 
year of the reign of his present Majesty, George III. and the 
year of Masonry 5817, in the presence of the Masters and 
Wardens of the Bath Lodges, viz. The Royal Cumberland 
Lodge, No. 55, The Royal Sussex Lodge, 69.* The Royal 
York Lodge of perfect Friendship, 245 ; and the Royal 
Lodge of Virtue, 311. His Royal Highness Frederick 
Duke of Sussex, being most worshipful Grand Master 
of the United Lodge of England, and Arthur Chiches- 
ter, Esq. R. W. Provincial Grand Master for the 
County of Somerset. Royal Cumberland Lodge, Charles 

* Were not present. 



132 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

Geary, W. M. Samuel J. Browne, S. W. Mark Walt, J. W. 
Royal Sussex Lodge, John Browne, W.M. John Morris, S. W. 
Josh. Pinker, J.W. — Royal York Lodge of perfect Friend- 
ship, Thomas Witney, W. M. John Ashley, S. W. William 
Redman, J. W. — Lodge of Virtue, Wm. Underwood Whit- 
ney, W. M. Jas. Webber, S. W. Jas, Hiscocks, J. W.— 

Brother Wilkins, Architect. Walter Harris, Builder. — 

Engraved by W. Lanter, 48, Corn-Street, Bristol." 

In consequence of the long indisposition of 
the Queen, the grand meeting for the opening 
and dedication of the above Hall, which was to 
have been honoured with the presence of His 
Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, was un- 
avoidably postponed to a more convenient pe- 
riod ; but on Monday, the 28th of September, 
1818, the \Y. MM. the P. MM. the S. and J.WW. 
the S. and J. DD. and the various officers and 
brethren of the Royal Cumberland Lodge, the 
Royal York Lodge of perfect Friendship, and 
the Lod<*e of Virtue, assembled at the New Free- 
masons' Hall, for the purpose of opening the 
Lower Lodge-Room, previous to the intended 
visit of His Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, 
and for holding their future masonic meetings. 
The Rev. the Chaplain of the Royal York Lodge 
invoked the blessing of the Almighty upon the 
undertaking, in most impressive terms ; after 
which, and previous to the consecration, the Di- 
rector of the Ceremonies (Dr. Geo. Gavin Browne 
Mill, of Marlborough-Buildings, the J. W. of the 
Royal York Lodge) delivered a most elegant ora- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 133 

ticn, replete with classic lore, and enriched with 
genuine effusions of piety, and eloquent recom- 
mendations of the moral and social virtues. Bro- 
ther R. M. Payne (the W. M. of the Royal Cum- 
berland Lodge) presided. On this occasion the 
new organ was opened, and its soft and beautiful 
tones added considerably to the effect of the so- 
lemnity. 

Upon leaving the Freemasons' Hall, cross Stall- 
Street and proceed through the Colonnade in 
Bath-Street, on the left of which, at the bottom, 
and near to the Cross Bath, is a neat little build- 
ing, containing the " BATH ANTIQUITIES." 
To the lovers of research, an hour or two may be 
fully employed in examining the various relics of 
ancient times, which have been preserved and 
collected together, and deposited in this build- 
ing, erected at the expense of the Corporation ; 
and which might be said not onlv to have filled 
up a vacant niche, but has given a sort of finish 
to the Colonnade and Cross Bath. It is open at all 
times of the day to public inspection; the remu- 
neration depending entirely on the liberality of 
the visitor. A quarto volume (which answers as 
a catalogue) printed in 1793, written with much 
industry and talent upon the subject, by the Rev. 
Mr. Warner, Curate of St. James's, Bath, (to 
whom the inhabitants of this elegant City, for 
his able and acute researches to render the most 
explicit information upon so dry a subject in a 
perspicuous point of view, are much indebted); 

N 



134 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

and dedicated to the Mayor and Corporation, 
will sufficiently assist the visitor in his examina- 
tion of the above fragments of masonry and 
sculpture. The remains of the Temple of 
Minerva form the most remarkable objects in the 
collection : and testify that the building to which 
they belonged, was equal in magnificence to any 
specimen of classical architecture in the king- 
dom. Besides the above fragments are several 
inscriptions and specimens of Roman masonry. 
Here is also a thin quarto manuscript, written 
by John Cranch, a native of Bath, respecting 
the Walcot Collection ; which collection, it ap- 
pears, has been presented by the above person to 
the Corporation of Bath, consisting of Imperial 
Coins, relating to the most obscure time of Great 
Britain under the subjugation of the Romans. 
On pulling down a house in Westgate-Street, in 
1784, thirty-two various pieces of money were 
found belonging to Trajan, Antonies, &c. half- 
pence of King James, silver coins of Queen Eliza- 
beth, &c. Also several coins were found in the 
copse of Cheynes-Court Farm, in 1813. It is 
however admitted by all the writers respecting 
the Antiquities of Bath, that the information is 
very scanty and imperfect ; but the conclusion 
of Mr. Cranch is so very forcible and decisive 
upon the darkness of the subject, that nothing 
but a real antiquarian would (if the expression 
can be pardoned by this most patient of all other 
societies) waste his time in farther research, upon 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 135 

reading the following passage: — " Not one na- 
tive writer from JefFery of Monmouth, down to 
Wood the Architect, inclusive, has left any ac- 
count that can at all gratify rational curiosity, 
or satisfy even moderate expectation V 

It how ever appears, that the spirit of research 
is not extinct in the neighbourhood of Bath, 
and the interesting remains of ancient times are 
daily presented to the admiring and scruti- 
nizing eyes of the antiquary. Exclusive of the 
spirited enterprises so successfully pursued 
by the Rev. Mr. Skinner, at Roundhill-tining 
and at Camerton, and the accessions still con- 
tinuing to be made by attentive individuals in 
and near Bath, of which no correct opinion has 
yet been laid before the public, the following 
articles were developed in September, 1818: — 
1. A sepulchral urn, with human bones and ashes, 
and a small brass coin of the usurper Carausius, 
at Walcot. 2. A fine medal of Faustina Augusta, 
reverse Lucina, in brass, at the same place. 
3. A tesselated mosaic pavement, in Kingsmead, 
behind Norfolk-Crescent. 4. An oblong square 
stone sarcophagus, containing a complete human 
skeleton, (other contents not yet ascertained), dug 
near Mr. Harris's, statuary, above Bathwick New 
Church, 5. A celt, (or more probably) an axe 
for hewing timber, found at Bathwick. This 
instrument is formed of a hard gray stone, of 
that species Q cal led the Hanham pennant: it is 



136 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

nearly 13 inches in length, of massive dimen- 
sions, well contrived for effect, and evidently de- 
signed to be fastened to its handle by thongs, in 
the manner found to be usual in all barbarous 
nations, where the use of the metals has been 
unknown : it is probably the largest instrument 
of its kind at present extant ; and, presuming it 
to have been antecedent to the introduction of 
the arts into Britain bv the Romans, must be at 
least 1800 years old, though it is probably much 
older : it is in the possession of Mr. O'Niel.— It 
is to be hoped, that those persons who may have 
to superintend any of the numerous excavations 
now 7 making in and about Bath, will not suffer 
any thing they may find to be mutilated or de- 
stroyed, merely because they may not themselves 
perceive any value in it ; remembering that, as 
the thoughtless destruction of the tin tablet 
dug up at Stone-henge, in the time of King 
Henry VIII. probably buried the origin of that 
extraordinary fabric in eternal oblivion, so it is 
not impossible that the future discovery of some 
similar memorial may either ascertain the origin 
of Bath, or throw additional light on the obscu- 
rity of its ancient history. 

On the visitor's retracing his steps past the 
Walks, the prospects from the North and South 
Parades may be viewed again and again with 
increased interest and pleasure;, particularly 
from the latter Parade, so attractive during the 
colder months. The eye ascending towards Pry or 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 137 

Park; the picturesque appearance of the hang- 
ing woods of Beechen-ClirY, added to the luxu- 
rient beauties of Claverton-Down: — 

Sweet are yon hills that crown this fertile vale ! 
Ye genial springs ! Pierean waters hail ! 

Haii, woods and lawns ! Yes — oft I'll tread 

Yon pine-clad mountain's side, 
Oft trace the gay enarnelPd mead, 

Where Avon rolls his pride. 

Hail next to fair Castalia's streams, 

And Pindus' now'ry path, 
Apollo most the spring esteems, 

And verdant meads of Bath. 

Contiguous to the South Parade, ground has 
been marked out, and a plan begun, towards an 
elegant new square, (to be called Kingston- 
Square) and also several new streets ; near to 
which are Henry, Phillip's, Evelyn, Manvers, 
Harris, and Orchard Sfreets. The Old Thea- 
tre, in the latter thoroughfare, was, in 1809, con- 
verted into a convenient and spacious Catholic 
Chapel, which has to boast of a most excellent 
choir, a very fine-toned organ, and a numerous 
congregation. In 1780, during the riots, the 
Romish Chapel, near St. James's Parade, was 
burnt down ; and a gentleman's servant of the 
name of Butler, who was particularly active 
in this disgraceful affair, was executed upon 
a gallows near the above Parade. 

On re-crossing the Ferry, towards the right of 

N2 



138 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

the road are several pieces of ground set apart 
for the erection of places, streets, &c. The 
view of Pulteney-Bridge, &c. alongside the 
Avon, is interesting till the visitor's arrival at 
the New Church, where, if he feels inclined to 
prolong his walk, there is a road that leads to 
Claver ton- Down, leaving Sidney -Wharf on his 
left. If home is the word, pass Great George- 
Street, through Darlington-Street, and Sydney- 
Place immediately appears in sight. 



WALKS THROUGH B ATH. 1 39 



WALK III. 



From Portland-Place through Burlington- Street and 
Place, Har ley- Street, Gloucester Place and Street. 
Contiguous to which are Ballance-Street, Lampard- 
Buildings, and Murford-Street . Cottle's Lane, 
Rivers- Street, and Catharine - Place. Through 
Margaret-Buildings, (Margaret-Chapel) Brock- 
Street, and the Circus. Bennet - Street (New 
Rooms), Saville-Rozo, and Alfred-Street. Return 
to the Circus through Guy-Street and Queen- 
Square, the Gravel- Walk, . Church-Street, to Port- 
land-Place. 



Portland-Place is an elevated pleasant situa- 
tion, commanding a good prospect; the houses 
are capacious and elegant ; but, in point of ap- 
pearance, it cannot compare with that distin- 
guished place of residence in the Metropolis. 
Pass through Burlington-Street, at the bottom 
of which is Burlington-Place ; and on the 
right is Har ley- Street, in which is Portland - 
Chapel, a neat building of free-stone, erected 
in 1816. On the left is Gloucester-Place, lead- 
ing directly to Gloucester-Street. In any of the 
above thoroughfares there is nothing of any par- 
ticular importance to arrest the progress of the 



140 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

visitor, nor in the following streets contiguous 
to them, Ballance- Street, Lampard-Buildings, 
and Murford- Street. Cross Cottle's Lane to 
Rivers-Street, which leads to Catharine^Place, 
where the houses are enclosed in the form of a 
square, but it has no iron-rails. Here chairs 
ply for fairs, for the accommodation of this part 
of the City. Pass through Margaret-Buildings, 
in which is situated Margaret -Chapel, built by 
Mr. Wood, after the Gothic order. Its appear- 
ance is light and elegant, from the roof having 
no supporters : in length it is 73 feet, 60 wide, 
and 37 high, with galleries. Over t>e altar is a 
fine picture of the Wise Men's Offerings, painted 
by Mr. Williams. It has a fine-toned organ, and 
is kept warm by two of Buzaglo's stoves. Divine 
service is performed here every Sunday, at eleven 
and five ; and on Wednesdays, prayers at eleven. 
This chapel was opened, in 1770, by that unfor- 
tunate but eloquent preacher, Dr. W. Dodd. 
The above buildings are adapted to trade, being 
full of shops ; and on the left is Brock-Street, 
a respectable place of residence, leading into the 
Circus. Upon entering this noble circular 
building, the eye of the visitor is delighted with 
the uniformity and grandeur of the scene. It 
bursts upon him by surprise, and its Roman 
appearance is very impressive. The houses are 
peculiarly attractive and interesting, having be- 
tween each of the various stories, two pillars of 
the Ionic, Doric, and Corinthian orders of ar- 




_Brw-. £ £r^y - !-yZSSt3Tsr 



Z/U 7 0f (A& 3z^z/y towv&J. 



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WALKS THROUGH BATH. 141 

chitecture; and are also decorated with nume- 
rous sculptured medallions. In the middle of 
the Circus is a shrubbery, and a gravel-walk 
surrounding a reservoir, from which the houses 
are supplied with water. This little promenade 
is enclosed with a circular iron-railing, allowing 
a most spacious carriage-road all round it. It 
was built after the design of the elder Mr. 
Wood : and most of the streets connected with 
the Circus were likewise erected from the plans 
of the above deservedly distinguished architect. 
The visitor can scarcely quit this classic pile of 
buildings, without turning round to take another 
look. On crossing the Circus, to the right is 
Bennet-Street, contiguous to Saville-Row and 
A If red- Street, in which are the various entrances 
to the Upper (or New) Rooms. The first 
stone of these beautiful, if not unequalled, 
Assembly Rooms in the kingdom, was laid on 
the 24th of May, 1769, by that ingenious archi- 
tect, inheriting all his father's talents, the junior 
John Wood, Esq. and built under his direction 
from the subscription of seventy individuals, at 
the cost of £20,000, and were opened for the 
reception of company in 1771. The elegance 
of the ball-room astonishes every spectator, it is 
100 feet 8 inches long, 42 feet 8 inches wide, 
and 42 feet 6 inches high. The ceiling is beau- 
tiful, ornamented with pannels with open com- 
partments, and from which are suspended five 



142 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

superb glass chandeliers : and the windows from 
which the rooms receive daylight, are on a ball- 
night covered with boards painted with orna- 
ments on them to correspond with the uniformity 
of the other side of the room. The walls are 
also painted and decorated in the most tasteful 
style ; and the Corinthian columns and entabla- 
ture resemble statuary marble. At each end of 
the room are placed, in magnificent gilt-frames, 
the most splendid looking-glasses that could be 
procured to give effect to the general brilliant 
appearance. The whole suite of rooms are fur- 
nished in the same elegant style to correspond. 
In the Octagon Card-Room, 48 feet in diameter, 
is a fine likeness of Captain Wade, painted by 
Gainsborough ; and likewise a portrait of 
Richard Tyson, Esq. done by James, The other 
Card-Room is 70 feet lous and 27 wide* In 
1813, a capacious and elegant Reading-Room 
was added to it by the present Renter, Mr. 
Stroud, which is fitted up with the best maps, 
newspapers, books of reference, &c. The ad- 
mission to this room is so convenient, that it 
does not interfere with the company on ball or 
concert nights. The terms of subscription to 
the Card and Reading Rooms for the year are 
26s. and for two months 15s. The above 
fashionable amusements are placed upon a far 
more moderate scale of terms than any other 
place of similar resort in the kingdom. In 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 143 

short, the whole establishment is truly com- 
plete, and cannot fail in proving the admiraiton 
of every visitor at Bath. 

Captain Wade was the first master of the cere- 
monies here, but who alternately presided at 
both rooms, till July 1777, when an affair of 
gallantry compelled him to relinquish his lucra- 
tive office. Seven candidates immediately offered 
themselves on the abdication of Mr. Wade. It was 
how r ever at length compromised, that Mr. Daw- 
son should preside in the room of Capt. Wade ; 
and Major Brereton to officiate as M. C. at the 
Lower Rooms. At the expiration of three years 
the latter retired from his office, and was suc- 
ceeded by Richard Tyson, Esq. fromTunbridge- 
Wells. In 1785, the latter gentleman was 
translated to the New Rooms on the resignation 
of Mr. Dawson : and James King, Esq. who had 
highly distinguished himself in the British army 
in America, was elected without opposition to 
the Lower Rooms. In 1805, Mr. Tyson, to the 
regret of the visitors at Bath, resigned his situa- 
tion, and was succeeded by Mr. King ; and the 
Lower Rooms received Mr. Le Bas, as Master 
of the Ceremonies, from Margate ; but this gen- 
tleman, after an ineffectual struggle of three 
years, was compelled to retire, owing to the de- 
serted state of the rooms. In 1810, some warm 
friends to the original establishment, roused 
from their apathy, placed the above Assembly 
on an improved footing, and on the 1st of No- 



144 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

vember, Francis John Guynette was unanimously 
elected Master of the Ceremonies. After a 
short reign, Mr. Heaviside succeeded the above 
gentleman. On the death of Mr. King, at Chel- 
tenham, October 16, 1816, rive candidates 
offered themselves, and an election took place 
for this lucrative and respectable situation, on 
the 21st of November; but on the previous day 
Captains Marshall and Thornhill resigned. The 
election fell on Captain Wyke, whose numbers 
were 258 ; Mr. Heaviside 195; and Mr. Mad- 
den 110. Mr. Heaviside continued to preside 
as M. C. at the Lower Rooms, till Captain 
Wyke retired from his office to rill an important 
situation abroad ; when he was translated to fill 
the ; above Captain's place, where the polite 
and gentlemanly conduct of Mr. H. is highly 
appreciated, by the elegant visitors of these un- 
rivalled assemblies. 

The following Rules and Regulations, published by the Master 
of the Ceremonies, are hung up in the 

NEW ASSEMBLY ROOMS. 
The public amusements during the season are as follow : — 

Monday Night Dress Ball. 

Wednesday Night Concert. 

Thursday Night Fancy Ball. 

Friday Night Card Assembly. 

N. B. The Rooms are open every day (Sunday excepted) 
for Cards. 

Bath, New Assembly Rooms, 
Nov. 13, 1816. 
At a Committee authorized by a General Meeting of the 
Subscribers to the Dress and Cotillon Balls (which was heid 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 145 

yesterday pursuant to public advertisement) to form such 
rules and regulations, relative to the amusements at these 
Rooms, as might appear to them most beneficial to the public 
at large. 

Col. S. Courtenay, in the Chair. 

Rules : — 1. " That the power of direction and controul,as 
to the amusements at these Rooms, is vested in such ladies 
and gentlemen as shall subscribe both to the Dress and Cotil- 
lon Balls. 

2, *< That not less than nine subscribers to the balls be com- 
petent to call a general meeting upon any business relative 
thereto ; the said subscribers to leave a summons, signed 
with their names, upon the table in the lobby, for the space 
of one full week previous to such meeting ; which summons 
shall also express the particular puiyose for which such meet- 
ing shall be called, and be advertised in the Bath News- 
papers. 

3. " Resolved, That these and all future regulations agreed 
to in general meetings, be inserted in the book containing 
the subscribers' names, signed by the chairman of the meet- 
ing for the time being ; such rules and regulations not to 
be altered by any authority, on any pretence whatever, but 
at a General Meeting of the Subscribers ; and that one copy 
of these rules and regulations be deposited with the Master 
of the Ceremonies for the time being ; and another with the 
Renter of the Rooms, to be produced at any time when a 
meeting of the committee, or of the subscribers to both Balls, 
shall be assembled ; or, when three or more subscribers shall 
desire to see the same. 

4. " That the Renter of these Rooms having agreed to fur- 
nish lights, music, &c. for twenty-two Dress Balls, (including 
the two Balls for the Master of the Ceremonies, and the Ball 
on the night of the King's Birth-day,) and twenty- five Co- 
tillon Balls, no annual account of expenditure will be re- 
quired of him. 

O 



146 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

« SUBSCRIPTIONS and ADMISSION. 
» ("Dress Balls.) 

5. " That a subscription of ll. 10s. to the Dress Balls shall 
entitle the subscriber to three tickets every ball- night ; one 
for the subscriber, not transferable, and two for ladies. These 
two latter tickets will be transferable, on being endorsed by 
the subscriber, without which form the bearer will not be 
admitted, A subscription of 15s. shall entitle the subscriber 
to one ticket, not transferable* 

" (Cotillon Balls. J 

6. " That a subscription of ll. to the Cotillon Balls shall 
entitle the subscriber to one ticket every ball-night: this 
ticket not transferable. 

7. " That no person whatever be admitted into the Bail- 
Rooms without a ticket ; nor any visitor or stranger, unless 
he shall previously have inserted his name and place of 
abode m a book to be kept for that purpose, under the con- 
troul of the Master of the Ceremonies. 

8. " The subscribers are respectfully requested to observe, 
that their subscriptions cease when they leave Bath; and it 
would be of much public utility, if they would be pleased to 
give notice at the Rooms of their departure, which would 
prevent their tickets being improperly used. 

« RULES RELATING TO THE BALLS. 

9. " That the Balls at these Rooms do commence at eight 
o'clock in the evening ; a quarter of an hour before which 
time the Rooms shall regularly and properly be lighted up ; 
and that the dancing shall cease at half-past eleven o'clock 
precisely, except on the night of the King's Birth-day, and 
on the nights of the two balls given for the benefit of the 
Master of the Ceremonies, when the time of dancing shall 
be unlimited. 

10. '« That every person, on admission to these Rooms on 
ball-nights, shall pay sixpence for their tea. 

11. " That the three front benches at the upper end of 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 147 

the room be reserved for ladies of precedence, of the rank 
of Peeresses of Great Britain or Ireland. 

12. u That a reasonable time shall be allowed between the 
Minuets and Country-Dances for ladies of precedence to 
take their places in the dance ; and that those ladies who 
shall stand up after the dance shall have commenced, must 
take their places successively at the bottom. 

13. " That no lady, after she shall have taken her place 
in the set, do permit another to come above her in the dance. 

14. u That ladies are to be considered perfectly free in 
regard to accepting or declining partners. 

15. u That it is the positive order of the Committee, that 
no servant whatever shall be admitted into the vestibule or 
gallery, on any occasion, or on any pretence whatever, on 
ball-nights. 

16. " That no gentleman in boots or half-boots be ad- 
mitted into the Ball-Rooms on ball-nights, except Officers of 
the Navy, or of the Army on duty, in uniform ; and then 
without their swords. Trowsers or coloured pantaloons not 
to be permitted on any account. 

"MASTER OF THE CEREMONIES. 

17. ** That the Master of the Ceremonies do attend at a 
quarter of an hour before eight o'clock on ball-nights to re- 
ceive the company. 

18. u That the Master of the Ceremonies, on observing, or 
receiving information of any person's acting in opposition to 
these resolutions, do signify to such person, that, as Master of 
the Ceremonies, it is his duty to see that proper decorum be 
preserved, and these orders obeyed ; in the proper and im- 
partial execution of which duty he will be supported by the 
subscribers at large, 

" Resolved, — That these regulations be printed, framed 
and glazed, and fixed in a conspicuous part of the Rooms, for 
public information ; not to be taken down on any pretence 
whatever, in order that they may remain as a public docu- 
ment." 



148 WALKS THROUGH BATH 1 . 

COMMITTEE. 

Lt-Col. Anstev, Gen. Johnson, 

Lt.-Col. Brown, Lt.-Col. Mackenzie, 

W. L. Caldecot, Esq. Capt. Mainwaring, R.N. 

J. Choppin, Esq. Gen. Morrison. 

Col. Courtnay, Rev. Dr. Walsh, 

Gen. SirT. Dallas, K.C.B. Tho. Wilkinson, Esq. 
H. Deacon, Esq. 

C. S. Courtenay, Chairman. 

NEW ARTICLES, AT THE NEW ROOMS. 

Bath Upper Assembly-Rooms, December 14, 
1816. At # meeting of the Committee to these 
Balls this day, it was unanimously resolved: — 

A person inadmissible to these rooms having been admitted 
to the Dress Ball, on the night of the 12th instant, and hav- 
ing in consequence been desired by the M. C. to withdraw, 
the Committee feel themselves bound to express their ap- 
probation of the conduct of the M. C. on that occasion. 

And it having been represented to the Committee, that 
many improper persons have at various times obtruded 
themselves into these assemblies, it is unanimously re- 
solved, that no Clerk, hired or otherwise, in this city and 
neighbourhood — no person concerned in retail trade— no 
theatrical nor public performer by profession, shall be ad- 
mitted. 

And as a further instruction to the M. C. and with a due 
regard to the selection of company, which the Committee 
feel should be scrupulously attended to, he is hereby di- 
rected to desire any person, whom from circumstances he 
may deem inadmissible, to withdraw immediately ; and in 
case of non-compliance with his request, it is ordered that 
he report the same to the Committee. 

C S. Courtenay, Chairman* 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 149 

Bath Upper Assembly-Rooms, December 23, 
1816, at a Committee to these Balls, held this 
day, it was unanimously resolved : — 

1. " That from the earliest institution of these Rooms, 
the regulations relating to dancing, and all points of etiquette 
at the Balls, having been left to the M. C. for the time 
being, and that the rules and orders suggested by him as to 
these having been invariably acquiesced in, and acted upon 
the company frequenting the balls. 

2. " That the same authority, so exercised by all preceding 
Masters of the Ceremonies, belongs of right to every suc- 
cessor to this office ; and that it is incumbent upon the sub- 
scribers (inasmuch as they must be desirous of promoting 
good order and decorum in these assemblies) to conform to 
the regulations of the M. C. and to support him in their 
execution. 

3. "That the Master of the Ceremonies is not account- 
able to any individual whatever, who may dispute or object 
to the established regulations ; but in case of any misunder- 
standing arising from these, or other matters connected with 
the balls, a reference must be made to the Committee of 
General Management, appointed annually by the subscribers 
at large, and all differences amicably submitted to them for 
their consideration and decision. 

4. " That any alteration or differences respecting the re^ 
gulations of the balls, either at the balls, or any subsequent 
period, (as they tend to disturb the harmony so requisite 
amongst the subscribers,) will be considered as a breach of 
the orders of the Committee and noticed accordingly." 

C. S. Courtenay. Chairman. 

What joy at the ball, what delight have I found, 
By all the bright circles encompass'd around ! 
I've read how the goddesses meet all above, 
And throng the immortal assemblies of Jove ; 
When join'd with the Graces, fair Venus appears, 
Ambrosial sweet odours perfume all the spheres: 

o2 



150 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

But the goddess of Love, and the Graces, and all, 
Must yield to the beauties I've seen at the ball; 
For Jove never felt such a joy at his heart, 
Such a heat as these charming sweet creatures impart. 
In short — there is something in very fine women, 
When they meet altogether — that's quite overcoming, 

But, lo ! on a sudden what multitudes pour 
From Cambrian mountains, from India's shore ; 
Bright maidens, bright widows, and fortunate swains, 
Who cultivate LifTey's sweet borders and plains ; 
And they who their flocks in fair Albion feed, 
Rich flocks, and rich herds, (so the gods have decreed), 
Since they quitted the pleasanter banks of the Tweed. 
Yet here no confusion, no tumult is known, 
Fair order and beauty establish their throne. 

But hark ! now they strike the melodious string, 
The vaulted roof echoes, the mansions all ring ; 
At the sound of the hautboy, the bass, and the fiddle, 
Sir Boreas Blubber steps forth in the middle ; 
Like a holy hock, noble, majestic, and tall, 
Sir Boreas Blubber first opens the ball : 
How nimbly he paces, how active and light ! 
One never can judge of a man at first sight : 
But as near as I guess from the size of his calf, 
He may weigh about twenty- three stone and a half. 
Now why should I mention a hundred or more, 
Who went the same circle as others before, 
To a tune that they play'd us a hundred times o'er ? 

But who is that bombazine lady so gay, 
So profuse of her beauties, in sable array ? 
How she rests on her heel, how she turns out her toe, 
How she pulls down her stays, with her head up, to show 
Her lily-white bosom that rivals the snow ! 
'lis the widow Quicklackit, whose husband last week, 
Poor Stephen, went suddenly forth in a pique, 
And push'd off his boat for the Stygian creek. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 151 

Poor Stephen ! he never return'd from the bourn, 

But left the disconsolate widow to mourn. 

Three times did she faint when she heard of the news ! 

Six days did she weep, and all comfort refuse ; 

But Stephen, no sorrow, no tears, can recall; 

So she hatlows the seventh, and comes to the Ball. 

For music, sweet music, has charms to control, 

And tune up each passion that ruffles the soul : 

'Twas music that brought a man's wife from Old Nick, 

And at Bath has the power to recover the sick ! 

The Subscription Concerts are also held at 
the Upper and Lower Rooms, under the direc- 
tion of the celebrated flute - player, Mr. Ashe, 
since the death of the all-admired Rauzzini. 
Mrs. Ashe is also well known to the musical 
world, from her eminent vocal abilities. Bath, 
for the last sixty years, has been highly distin- 
guished for the superiority of its concerts, and 
its sound musical character. These concerts 
were in great reputation under the superintend- 
ence of the scientific Linley, and his rarely- 
gifted musical family, consisting of T. Linley, 
jun. Miss E. Linley, (afterwards Mrs. Sheridan,) 
Mrs. Tickell, and Miss M. Linley; and the 
names of Guest, Crotch, &c. may be added to 
the above performers without any decrease of 
fame: but it seems they did not arrive at that 
finished perfection (for which they have been so 
highly praised) till after Rauzzini, accompa- 
nied by La Motte, the celebrated violin -player, 
had made Bath their residence. Under the di- 



152 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

rection of the former they flourished beyond all 
precedent, and the great musical capacity ex- 
hibited in them extorted admiration from the 
first judges of musical compositions in the king- 
dom. As a composer, Rauzzini possessed 
talents of a high order ; but, as a teacher, the 
names of Braham, Signora Storace, Incledon, 
Mrs. Mountain, &c. &c. as his pupils, suffici- 
ently evince his talents in this respect without 
any farther eulogium on his merits as a musi- 
cian. 

The concerts consist of nine performances, 
the terms of which are as follow : — 

A subscriber of ,£5 : 15 : 6 is entitled to three tickets 
for each concert, all of which are transferable to ladies 
only. 

A subscriber of ^4 : 10 : is entitled to two tickets for 
each concert, both transferable to ladies only. 

A subscriber of ^2 : 12 : 6 is entitled to a ticket for each 
concert, transferable to a lady only. 

For the accommodation of strangers, subscriptions are 
also received for part of the concerts, on the following 
terms : — 

A subscriber of £0 : 3 : will receive three tickets for 
each of the four concerts following such subscription, trans- 
ferable to ladies only. 

A subscriber of <£2 .6:0, two tickets, transferable to 
ladies only, for each of the four concerts following such sub- 
scription. 

A subscriber of £l : 6 : 0, one ticket, transferable to a 
lady only, for each of the four concerts following such sub- 
scription. 

Non-subscribers pay 8s. to each concert. 

On returning through the Circus, upon the left 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 15:} 

is Gay-Street , full of respectable residences, 
leading into Queen-Square. It is an open and 
desirable situation, and the north side of which is 
much admired for the great taste and architectural 
talent displayed in its erection. Queen-Square is 
not only magnificent but chaste ; and the body 
of the Corinthian order upon a rustic basement, 
is encircled in the highest style of ornament, that 
this elegant order is capable of extending. In 
the centre of this capacious square, enclosed in 
an iron -railing, is an obelisk of seventy feet 
high, bearing the following inscription : — 

In Memory of Honors conferred, 

And in Gratitude for Benefits bestowed on this City, 

By his Royal Highness 

Frederick Prince, of Wales 

And his Royal Consort, 

In the Year m,dcc,xxxvii. 

This obelisk is erected 
By Richard Nash, Esq. 

The above obelisk, from its thin appearance, 
is not very imposing; but, when first erected, it 
seems, its base was surrounded by a piece of 
water, which, in consequence of its becoming 
stagnate and made use of as a receptacle for 
filth, it was filled up, and the ground raised, by 
which the pyramid lost its base. It was in the 
construction of this square, that the superior 
talents of the senior Mr. Wood, as an architect, 
first discovered themselves to the admiration of 
the inhabitants and visitors of the Citv of Bath : 
and whatever praise might have been due to the 



154 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

celebrated Nash for the exertions he made to- 
wards rendering Bath the scene of gaiety, ele- 
gance, urbanity, and health, and also in placing 
its amusements upon an eminence unrivalled — an 
eulogium of as high an import is equally due to 
the spirited zeal, industry, and abilities of the 
architect Wood, in giving, as it were, 

To -airy nothing, 
A local habitation and a name, 

from his numerous erections of splendid squares, 
parades, streets, &c. before he died in 1754, and 
of whom it has been asserted, that he " had either 
actually built, or entered into engagements for 
building over a tract of ground three times 
the extent of the original City' 1 It is due, 
therefore from every native of Bath, to couple 
the names of Nash and Wood together, as the 
fathers of this truly elegant City ; and also as a 
means of handing down to posterity their highly 
cultivated talents, with the most unfeigned rap- 
ture, admiration, and gratitude. At the south- 
west corner of this square, dedicated to the 
Virgin Mary, is Queen-Square-Chapel, built by 
the above architect in 1735, and is another spe- 
cimen of his skill in building. It is a chapel of 
ease to Walcot. Its exterior is of the Doric order ; 
and its appearance is rather handsome : the inte- 
rior of which is Ionic, and is also elegant and in- 
teresting. In length 57 feet, 48 in breadth, and 
in height 36. It was built by subscription by a 
company of gentlemen, and the shares are trans- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 



155 



ferable. Divine Service is performed here every 
alternate day at a quarter after eleven ; and 
twice every Sunday at a quarter after eleven and 
at three. In order to give a little variety to the 
walk in returning home from Queen-Square, the 
Gravel-Walk affords a pleasing relief and pro- 
spect, at the end of which is Church-Street, when 
Portland Chapel soon offers us a direction to 
the Place from whence the traveller set out. 



156 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 



WALK IV. 



From Milsom - Street through Quiet - Street, Wood- 
Street, Barton-Street, into Beaufort-Square, to the 
Theatre. Trim-Street, (Unitarian Chapel;) 
Gascoyn-Place, (the Blue School;) the Coal- 
Market; Saw's - Close, Westgate- Street, Bath- 
Lane, Parsonge Lane, (the Parsonage - House,) 
Cheap- Street, High-Street, (Market-House and 
the Guildhall,) Northumberland - Buildings, 
Northgate- Street. Upper Borough - Walls, New 
Bond, Green, and Broad Streets. (St. Michael's 
Church,) Walcot and Cornwall Streets. (Cattle 
and Corn-Markt,) Lady-Mead, (Bath Peni- 
tentiary and Lock Hospital,) Chat/iam-Row, 
(Walcot Church,) London - Terrace, Camden- 
Street, Nelson and Margaret Places, Walcot- 
Parade. To the Ferry and Henrietta-Street. 



To those visitors who give the preference to ac- 
tive life and fashionable bustle, Milsom- Street 
affords a most pleasant and lively residence ; and 
whether in, or out of the Season, it is highly at- 
tractive ; in short, it is the very magnet of Bath, 
aud if there is any company or movement in the 
City, Milsom-Street is the pulse of it. 














§ 




^ 






















WALKS THROUGH BATH. 157 

The beaux in Milsom-Street, who sought renown, 
By walking up, in order to walk down ! — 

On turning to the right, it should seem as if 
the next thoroughfare had been called after its 
present designation, Quiet-Street, by way of 
a contrast or set-off to the above fashionable 
promenade. Wood-Street continues in the same 
line (passing by Queen-Street on the left, and St. 
John-Street on the right,) till Queen-Square ap- 
pears ; this elegant monumental remembrance of 
the talents of its architect, the senior Mr. 
Wood. Turn down into Barton- Street, in the 
middle of which is Harrington-Place, exciting 
no particular interest. At the bottom of Bar- 
ton-Street, on the right, is Beaufort- Square. As 
a place of residence it has no pretensions what- 
ever, the houses being small and irregularly 
built, and the inhabitants, chiefly tradespeople. 
This square, as it is termed, is only important 
from its containing the grand entrance to the 
New Theatre Royal, which has an elegant 
and attractive appearance, and is enclosed with 
iron rails, with a large open space gravelled be- 
fore it. 

What though our stage some few recruits may own, 
As senseless as the boards they tread upon ; 
Though here, at times, some heroes may be found, 
Who bid defiance both to sense and sound ! — 
Confounding every passage they rehearse, 
Bad by degrees and miserably worse ; 
Yet in this soil, by favour's sunshine reared, 
Some buds of real talent have appeared ; 

P 



158 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

And splendid stars* now grace the London sphere, 
Whose earliest rays were nursed and kindled here. 

The first regular erected Theatre in Bath was 
in the year 1730, and which, it appears, did not, 
when well filled, hold more than £30; but it 
was a most miserable concern, and so badly at- 
tended, that many of the principal performers 
were compelled to retire to rest with appetites 
not of the most enviable description. Such has 
been the vicissitudes of many of the great heroes 
of the Sock and Buskin, if their present eminence 
does not refuse the recollection of such days of 
poverty and uights of sorrow. However, when 
theatricals became rather more attractive, a New 
Play-House was erected, in Orchard-Street, by 
subscription; but this speculation soon met with 
an unexpected opposition from a Mr. Simpson, 
who patched up a sort of Theatre under the 
Great Bali-Room. This rivalry, as might be 
anticipated, did not last any great length of 
time, as ruin stared both the Managers in the 
face ; when Mr. Simpson, with much propriety, 
ceased all opposition upon a substantial pension 

* It was upon the Bath stage that Mrs. Crawford, Mrs. 
Abingdon, Miss Brunton, Miss Wallis, Mrs. Siddons, and 
Miss Smith, first developed their great talents ; as did also 
Mesrss. Henderson, Incledon, Edwin, Lovegrove, Murray, 
C. Taylor, and Ellis ton : and of a more recent date, the 
above theatre has been distinguished with some performers 
of rising merit, among whom maybe noticed, Mrs. VV. Chat- 
terly, and Messrs. Ward, Woulds, Mallinson, Blisset, W. 
Chatterley, &c. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 159 

of £200 per annum. In 1767, it became a 
Theatre Royal, under the direction of the 
late John Palmer, Esq. From this period, 
theatrical amusements rose rapidly into estima- 
tion, and obtained considerable patronage at 
Bath ; and under the various managements of 
Messrs. Arthur, Lee, Keasbery, and the 
late W. Dimond, Esq. the performances not 
only arrived at such a degree of excellence, but 
ultimately proved a nursery for several of the 
greatest actors, both male and female, that have 
for the last fifty years adorned the stages of the 
metropolis with the highest specimens of his- 
trionic talents. The late W. Dimond, Esq. 
added to his abilities as a manager, was also an 
actor, both in tragedy and comedy, of the first 
rank. His son William, the author of the Hero 
of the North, the Foundling of the Forest, 
Adrian and Orrilla, and several other popular 
dramatic pieces, independent of various poetical 
productions, has succeeded him in a share of the 
property and management of the Theatre ; but 
which at present is placed under the able con- 
duct of Mr. Charlton. 

The Theatre, in Orchard-Street, was at length 
found too small for the accommodation of the 
great increase of fashionable company ; and the 
present New Theatre-Royal in Beaufort- 
Square and in Saw-Close, was opened in Oc- 
tober 12, 1805. Its classical front, in the above 



160 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

square, was designed by Nath. Dance,- Esq. 
and built under the direction of Mr. Palmer, a 
most ingenious and able architect, who has hap- 
pily united convenience with elegance. The situa- 
tion is central, and its approach extremely safe 
from its three distinct entrances. The exterior 
is handsome; but its interior is finished in such 
a high state of excellence, as to vie with any 
building of a similar description. Its cieling, 
which is divided into four compartments, has to 
boast of some rich paintings by Cassalie y purchased 
at the memorable sale of Fonthill, by Mr. Me- 
thuen, and who made them a present to the 
proprietors of the Theatre. The decorations 
are very splendid ; and the colouring and gilt 
mouldings executed with much taste and effect. 
There are three tier of boxes. The private ones, 
which are twenty-six in number, are enclosed 
with gilt lattices. The tout ensemble of the 
Theatre has a light, elegant, and classical ap- 
pearance, in consequence of the pillars (which 
are of cast iron) being placed at the distance of 
two feet from the front, by which the first row 
of each circle of the boxes appear as a balcony, 
and not connected with the building. The pri- 
vate boxes have also an elegant suite of retiring 
rooms ; and the entrance to which is by a pri- 
vate house. The length of the grand front in 
Beaufort-Square is about 125 feet; 60 wide, 
and 70 high : there are also various other build- 




Jfrajvn, Jc Enor >u JT£ Sorer. 



■(o 



JiUlitked Sv SfanroocL k C. e jlpHZs. jM 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. \6\ 

iugs connected v/ith the exterior, such as dress- 
ing and scene rooms, wardrobes, &c. The 
scenery is also excellent ; and the machinery is 
equally good ; in short, the above Theatre, from 
its size not being so extensive as those of Covent- 
Garden and Drury-Lane, both the eye and the 
ear derive the necessary gratification of seeing, 
hearing, and comprehending the performances 
before them. It will hold nearly £350, at 5s. 
to the Boxes; 3s. to the Pit; and Is. 6d. to the 
Gallery. The days of performance are on 
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. 

On quitting Beaufort-Square the visitor finds 
himself in Trim-Street, conspicuous in no other 
respect, but merely containing the Unitarian 
Chapel, which is rather a handsome erec- 
tion. It is distinguished for its excellent sing- 
ing, and also for the neatness of its pews and gal- 
leries. Divine service is performed twice every 
Sunday. To the left of the above street is Gas- 
coyn-Place, and the Blue School soon appears 
in sight. This most excellent charity, it seems, 
was projected in the year 1711, and the present 
school-house, erected by Mr. Killegrew, the 
architect, at the expense of £1000, in 1722, 
by the active benevolence of the pious Robert 
Nelson, Esq. It is an establishment for the 
education of 50 poor boys, and the same number 
of girls ; the former are instructed in reading, 
writing, and arithmetic ; and the latter in sewing, 
knitting, and housewifery business. On the 12th 

P2 



162 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

of October, 1722, Mr. Hoare laid the founda- 
tion-stone, bearing this inscription: — 

<e God's Providence is our Inheritance." 

The a»e of admission is from six to twelve 
years of age; and at fourteen, a premium, not 
exceeding £6, is given with each boy on his 
being apprenticed out to a trade — with every 
girl £2. It has ten trustees, including the 
Mayor and two magistrates* of the City, with 
the Rectors of Bath and Walcot. It is sup- 
ported by collections at the churches and cha- 
pels ; by donations ; and from annual subscrip- 
tions. Contiguous to the above school-house, in 
the open space, the Coal - Market is situated, 
where carts filled with coals always stand ready 
for sale, and where the passenger is as much 
assailed, in fact, more bothered and annoyed 
by these carmen to purchase their articles, and 
compelled to stop and hear the various merits 
of their coals,* than by a Monmouth-Street 
barker in London. It is no uncommon thing 

* The neighbourhood of Bath presents a large quantity 
of this fossile production ; which runs to the southward as 
far as Mendip, continues on the Wiltshire side till it ap- 
proaches the chalk, and stretches away into Gloucestershire, 
beyond the city of Bristol. The coal-works, with which 
Bath is chiefly connected, lie on the north and south side 
of the Somerset Coal-Canal ; in a direction from the south- 
west to the north-east, dipping about nine inches in a yard, 
though the vein is frequently interrupted by what the work- 
men call a fault, a separation occasioned by an early dis- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 163 

for ten or a dozen of the above rude and uncul- 
tivated beings to surround a person with their 
teasings to become a purchaser. On the right 
in this space, called Saw's Close, is the Garrick's 
Head Tavern, and the carriage entrance to the 

ruption or sinking of the earth, sometimes to the depth of 
100 fathoms. Most of the works are from 90 to 130 fa- 
thoms deep, and extend in some instances nearly a mile 
from the bottom of the shaft ; but those which repay the 
proprietor are of four sorts, and termed the great, the little, 
the middle, and the sliving veins. The principal coal-works 
are those of Radstock, Camerton, Dunkerton, High Little- 
ton, Timsbury, Paulton, Welton, and Writhlington. The 
first of them sink to the depth of 42 fathoms, affording 
veins of various thickness; the most valuable of which mea- 
sure nearly two feet. Their produce is 1600 bushels per 
week upon an average. The Earl of Waldegrave is the 
lord, and has for his portion one-eighth of the produce. 

In the Camerton mines, red-clay and red-stone continue 
to the depth of 20 fathoms, or more, contiguous to the coal. 
About Midsomer-Norton, Stratton-on-the-Fosse, and Kil- 
mersdon, the pits are supposed to yield weekly from 800 
to 1000 tons, requiring the labour of at least 500 men. 

There are about ten coal-works in the northern, or Tims- 
bury, line of the Coal-Canal j which, it is calculated, pro- 
duce each (one day with another) 25 tons per day, reckon- 
ing 300 working days in the year ; and this, exclusive of 
home consumption, coal for fire-engines, labourers, &c. The 
southern line affords about half the quantity. The price at 
the pit's mouth is invariably the same ; sevenpence per 
bushel, or three-quarters of the hundred ; but the hard, 
compact, and solid coal is preferred to every other sort. — 
The coal of Newton is inferior to all the above, and chiefly 
used for obtaining coke. — Warner. 



164 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

Theatre. Near to which, on the opposite side 
of the road, are the warehouses of Symes and 
Michell, the London carriers. On turning to the 
left, when leaving the Close, is West gate-Street. 
Trade is the leading feature of this part of the 
town, and several well-furnished shops are to be 
met with. Pass Bath and Parsonage Lanes ; at 
the corner of the latter stands the Parsonage- 
House, which is a very neat building of free- 
stone. In the front of it is a large space, gra- 
velled to admit carriages, which is enclosed with 
iron rails ; and it has also a good entrance 
through iron gates, and carries with it such an air 
of importance, that few visitors could pass this 
handsome residence without the interrogation 
being applied, of Who does it belong to ? The 
living attached to it is £800 per annum, it 
seems ; and the Rector had also the honour of 
being appointed one of the Chaplains to the 
Queen, during her late Majesty's visit to Bath. 
Thanks to modern improvement, there is some 
little difference between the village Preacher of 
Goldsmith and his modest mansion, con- 
trasted with the dwellings of the clergy of the 
present period : Goldsmith's Parson may do 
very well, and gain admiration as a pleasing 
poetic description, but for congregations now- 
adays to expect their teachers to sequester 
themselves from the Beau Monde, would not 
only prove too much of the Gothic, but ro- 
mantic in the extreme : — 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 165 

Near yonder copse, where once the garden smil'd, 

And stiil where many a garden flower grows wild, 

There, where a lew torn shrubs the place disclose, 

The village preacher's modest mansion rose. 

A man he was to all the country dear,] 

And passing rich, with forty pounds a year ; 

Remote from towns he ran his godly race, 

Nor e'er had chang'd, nor wish'd to change his place ; 

Unskilful he to fawn, or seek for pow'r, 

By doctrines fashion'd to the varying hour. 

Far other aims his heart had learn'd to prize, 

More bent to raise the wretched than to rise ; 

His house was known to all the vagrant train, 

He chid their wand'rings, but reliev'd their pain. 

But a facetious poet (Anstey,) seems to have 
been more apposite in his view of the reality of 
the subject, in thus describing modern Clergy- 
men partaking of all the gaieties of fashionable 
life, dancing at the balls, &c. 

See little Bob Jerom, Old Chrvsostom's son, 
With a chitierling shirt, and a buckle of stone, — 
What a cropt head of hair the young parson has on ! 
Emerg'd from his grizzle, th' unfortunate prig, 
Seems as if he was hunting all night for his wig; 
Not perfectly pleas' d with the coat on his back, 
Though the coat's a good coat, but alas, it is black ! 
With curious eves he is doom'd to behold 
The captain's red suit that's embroider'd with gold I 
How seldom mankind are content with their lot, 
Bob Jerom two very good livings has got. 
Yet still he accuses his parents, dcceas'd, 
For making a man of such spirit a priest. 



166 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

O trust me, blest spirit, I ne'er would offend 
One innocent virgin, one virtuous friend ; 
From Nature alone are my characters drawn, 
From little Bob Jerom to bishops in lawn. 

At the bottom of Parsonage- Lane is Cheap- 
Street, where the houses are good, and the 
shops of the most respectable description. Pro- 
ceeding onwards, the Market - House and the 
Guildhall, in High-Street, attractively arrests 
the progress of the visitor. On the right, 
the venerable Abbey may be said to be nearly 
obscured, except just peeping, as it were, over 
the tops of some irregularly built houses : — 

The citizens of Bath, with vast delight, 
To hide their noble church from vulgar sight, 
Surround its venerable sides with shops, 
And decorate its walls with chimney tops ! 

The Public Market is a structure well de- 
serving the attention of every visitor of Bath, 
not only from its very judicious construction, 
but for its convenience, cleanliness, and good 
order. The market-days are on Wednesdays and 
Saturdays. It is also of great extent, and the 
shambles are secured from rain, which are prin- 
cipally occupied by the country butchers ; the 
meat is excellent, and is remarkable for the 
neatness with which it is slaughtered. The 
Green-Market is also well laid out, and pro- 
perly supplied with vegetables in the greatest 
perfection. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 167 

The Butter and Pork Market is a large 
building connected with the butchers' shambles. 
The butter is peculiarly fine, and may be deemed 
one of the luxuries of Bath. The fish and 
poultry stalls are also convenient and well 
supplied, which are in rows in the front of the 
market. In short, an hour or two may be well 
exercised in minutely observing the various 
parts of this market, which has ever been the 
boast of its inhabitants, and also claiming the 
admiration and praise of every person who has 
witnessed the excellent mode with which it is 
supplied and conducted. The Corporation, in 
order to do justice to the buyer and seller, em- 
ploy men in the weighing houses erected close 
to the shambles. 

The Guildhall, which is close to the Mar- 
ket-House, is one of the most elegant buildings 
in Bath, and must be viewed as a great orna- 
ment to this part of the City. Its noble ap- 
pearance at once bespeaks its importance, and 
reflects great credit on the abilities of the ar- 
chitect, Mr. Baldwin. The first stone of 
which was laid in 1766; but the undertaking 
was discontinued till 1775, when it was com- 
pleted. The front in High-Street is of the 
Composite order, and pronounced to be a fine 
piece of architecture ; the other front towards 
the market is equally handsome; but it is too 
much enveloped by buildings to discover its 
beauties. The edifice is terminated on each 



168 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

side by two wings which extend 50 feet in 
length. The Banqueting or Ball Room, which 
is on the principal story, is 80 feet long, 40 feet 
wide, and 31 feet high. It is finished with 
great taste, and the harmony of its proportions 
are the admiration of every spectator. A Draw- 
ing-room and Council-room are also attached to 
it. Over one of the chimney-pieces in the 
Banqueting-room is a most curious and beauti- 
ful bronze head of Minerva, originally brass 
gilt, dug up in Stall-Street, at 16 feet from the 
surface of the earth, in 1727. It is viewed as a 
most interesting piece of antiquity. This room 
is also enriched with whole length portraits of 
the King and her late Majesty, the Prince and 
Princess of Orange, and the first Earls of Cha- 
tham and Camden, in compliment to the former 
as one of the Representatives of the City, and 
the latter as the Recorder. It has likewise a 
large finely executed marble bust of his present 
Majesty, by Turnerelli, done when the King 
had attained his fiftieth year, and presented to 
the Coporation by a gentleman : and out of re- 
spect shown to him when at Bath, his late Royal 
Highness Frederick Prince of Wales also pre- 
sented a magnificent silver-gilt cup and salver to 
the Corporation, which passes round upon all 
public occasions, upon any toast being given. 
The basement story contains a capacious kitchen, 
with convenient offices ; and on which stands 
the ground-floor, consisting of a vestibule, a 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 169 

justiciary-room, a drawing-room for the Mayor, 
the town -clerk's office, a withdrawing-room for 
the Jury, a deputy town's clerk office, a com- 
mon clerk's ditto, and a lobby near the grand 
staircase for the Mayor's officers. In every 
point of view, the Guildhall is well worthy 
the inspection of the visitor. 

City Balls. — In consequence of the prohi- 
bition which the trading part of Bath experience 
in not being esteemed eligible to visit the Dress 
Boxes of the Theatre, or the Upper and 
Lower Assembly Rooms : such exclusion is 
thus ridiculed in a recent poetic production : — 

Here, salutary rules exclude all those 

Whom no one hears of, and whom no one knows ; 

That no plebeian breathings may infect 

An atmosphere at all times so select ; 

No bankers' clerks these splendid realms invade; 

Ko folks who carry on a retail trade ; 

No actors by profession must appear 

To act their parts, or speak their speeches here ; 

Yet even here, amid the crowds you view, 

'Tis sometimes difficult to tell who's who. 

The Mayor, it seems, to afford the wives 
and daughters of the Citizens of Bath an agree- 
able and desirable place of resort, in order that 
they may participate in the pleasing recreation 
of the " light fantastic toe/' upon an equality 
of station in life, and without encountering the 
sneers of the lofty part of the creation, has, with 
much gallantry, permitted the free use of the 

2 



170 , WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

magnificent room at the Guildhall for a Ball, 
and the room adjoining for a Card Assembly 
throughout the season. These Balls are regu- 
lated by a Master of the Ceremonies, and are 
held every alternate Monday throughout the 
season. The M. C. is remunerated by a Benefit 
Ball. 

In the above Guildhall are held the Ses- 
sions, which occur four times every year; and 
extend to the cognizance of the misdemeanours 
committed within the precincts of the Corpora- 
tion Liberties. A Court of Record also sits 
every Monday, which determines all personal 
actions within the same jurisdiction, provided 
the debt or damages amount to or exceed 
forty shillings. A Court of Requests is h olden 
every Wednesday Morning, for the recovery of 
debts under forty shillings ; and not exceeding 
£10, within the City, and the hundred of Bath- 
forum, Claverton, and Wellow. The Chairman 
must be a barrister of six years standing, and 
specially appointed by the Lord Chancellor. 
Some curious appeals, it should seem, have been 
made to this court, not exactly in unison with 
the gravity and demeanour of its proceedings, 
by some of the tender-hearted sex, who have 
been compelled to summons before this tribunal 
certain gallant gay Lotharios, who have not had 
honour enough to pay for favours conferred upon 
them ; and although these sort of circumstances 
could not be subject matter of serious argument, 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 171 

or come exactly under the cognizance of a court 
founded only for the recovery of bona fide debts, 
vet some of these frailties of nature, it is said, 
have found relief under the disguised items of a 
washing-bill. 

The County Magistrates regularly meet every 
Friday in the Guildhall, to transact all the jus- 
ticiar business connected with the Bath dis- 
trict. As Bath has no manufactory, and but 
little trade, the generality of the natives are well 
known to each other, which tends to operate as 
a powerful check upon all attempts at open 
fraud, violence, or breaches of the peace. Rows 
at night are not very common ; and charges of 
house-breaking are seldom heard of within the 
City : the exertions of the Magistrates, aided by 
their well-regulated police, render Bath almost 
as vigilantly looked after as a military garrison. 
The City of Bath most certainly, for the excel- 
lence of its watch, and being well lighted, has to 
boast of these qualifications in a very high point 
of view. 

Nearly opposite to the Guildhall is Fromont's 
Coach-Office, and also the banking-house of 
Messrs. Clement, Tugwell, and Mackenzie. 
This street also contains the following good inns : 
the White Lion Inn, Greyhound, and Chris- 
topher ; and in consequence of the situation of 
the Market, it is all trade, bustle, and activity. 
Northumberland-Place is contiguous, and not 
unlike Cranbourne-Alley in London, containing 



172 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

many excellent shops for the ladies. Adjoining 
High-Street is Northgate- Street, at the corner 
of which is the Bank of Messrs. Brown, Cava- 
naugh, Bailey, and Brown ; to the left leads to 
the Upper Borough Walls. Here are also 
avenues leading to JXew Bond-Street, Green- 
Street, and Broad-Street. In the latter is si- 
tuated the Public Grammar School ; it is an 
elegant building, and was originally founded and 
endowed by King Edward VI. for the instruction 
of the sons of the Freemen of Bath. The first 
stone of the present building was laid by the 
Mayor and Corporation, and the existing Com- 
panies, in 1752, bearing the following inscrip- 
tion : — 

" Auspicato surgat hocce DomiciJiura, ad humaniores 
Literas bonasque Artes disseminendas bene ac sapienter 
designatum. Hoc jecit Fundamentum Franciscus Hales, 
hujus Urbis Praetor, Mensis Maii diei 9°. A.D. mdcclii. 
AnnoqueregnantisGEORGIl SECUNDI 25°." 

It has also several apartments for the accom- 
modation of boarders. The Master of the 
School is a very handsome appointment, having 
£80 per annum, and the living of Charlcombe, 
near Bath, attached to it. St. Michael's Church 
is now passed by the visitor, which stands 
in an awkward situation, and has a very heavy 
and gloomy appearance. In the erection of 
this church, which was begun in 1732, and 
finished 1742, it seems economy was preferred 
to taste and beauty of design; and a mere 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 173 

plodding stone-mason, of the name of Harvey, 
was selected as the builder, instead of that in- 
genious architect, Mr. Wood, whose plans were 
rejected. It is 03 feet in length, and 37 in 
breadth ; and the roof is completely out of all 
proportion. St. Michael's Church, viewed as a 
structure, is an annoyance to the admirers of 
architecture in Bath. Walcot-Street adjoins to 
it, and is entirely devoted to shops and trade ; 
and contains a large Pin- Manufactory, which 
employs nearly 100 poor boys and girls. — 
Near to this place is a spacious and commodious 
Mart for cattle, sheep, and pigs ; and also an ex- 
tensive building used as a Corn-Market. — 
Being contiguous to the river it is extremely 
convenient and well calculated for the despatch 
of trade. Through Cornwall - Street to Lady 
Mead: 

Ah, turn thine eyes 
Where the poor houseless shiv'ring female lies ; 
She once, perhaps, in village plenty blest 
Has wept at tales of innocence distrest ; 
Her modest looks the cottage might adorn, 
Sweet as the primrose peeps beneath the thorn ; 
Now lost to all ; her friends, her virtue fled, 
Near her betrayer's door she lays her head ; 
And pinch'd with cold, and shrinking from the show'r, 
With heavy heart deplores that luckless hour, 
When idlv first, ambitious of the town, 
She left her wheel and robes of country brown. 

Here is situated a most excellent institution, 

22 



174 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

and highly honourable to the citizens of Bath, 
denominated the Bath Penitentiary and Lock 
Hospital, under the patronage of His Serene 
Highness Prince Leopold of Cobourg. The 
President is Lord Gwydir ; and the internal di- 
rection and management is superintended by a 
Committee of ladies. The above laudable cha- 
rity has not only saved several unfortunate 
diseased victims from a wretched death, but 
ultimately convinced them of th^eir errors, and 
restored them again to the arms of society, re- 
formed in manners, and possessing a knowledge 
of the advantages of religion. It is supported 
by annual subscriptions ; and it was established 
in 1805, under the auspices of the then Mayor 
of Bath, Charles Philpott, Esq. It is a neat in- 
teresting building, and enclosed with gates. To 
the left of Chatham-Roiv is Walcot Burying 
Ground, which appears to have been the burial 
place of the Romans 1700 years since. Upon 
the other side of the road, upon an ascent, stands 
Walcot Church, dedicated to St. Swithin, which 
is a handsome stone building, and enlarged in 
1780 ; which additions are considered to have 
materially injured its original beauty and pro- 
portion of design. (This parish alone is con- 
sidered to contain 20,000 souls ; and its returns 
to Government are greater than any parish in 
England, excepting that of Mary-le-bone.) The 
interior of the above church is extremely in- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 175 

teresting, it might be said grand ; the sides 
of which are filled with numerous monuments; 
and among a number of excellent ones, the 
following epitaph, written in memory of James 
Hare, Esq. M.P. for Knaresborough, the friend 
and companion of the principal great wits of 
the age in which he lived, by the late Geo?*giana, 
the eloquent, beautiful, and accomplished 
Duchess of Devonshire: — 

u Hark ! 'twas the knell of death ! what spirit fled, 
And burst the shackles man is doom'd to bear ? 

Can it be true ? and, 'midst the senseless dead, 

Must sorrowing thousands count the loss of Hare ? 

** Shall not bis genius life's short date prolong ? 

(Pure as the ether of its kindred sky ;) 
Shall wit enchant no longer from his tongue, 

And beam in vivid flashes from his eye ? 

M Oh, no : that mind, for every purpose fit, 

Has met, alas ! the universal doom; 
TJnrivalPd fancy, judgment, sense, and wit, 

Were his, and onlv left him at the tomb. 

" Rest, spirit, rest ! for gentle was thy course ; 

Thy rays, like beams divine, no venom knew, 
For still benevolence allav'd the force 

Of the keen darts thy matchless satire threw. 

*' Yet not alone thy genius we deplore, 
Nor o'er thy various talents drop the tear ; 

But weep to think we shall behold no more 
A lost companion, and a friend sincere*" 

Pass by London-Terrace, near to which is 
Camden- Street, Nelson and Margaret Places, 
and Walcot-Parade ; at the end of which descend 



176 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

a flight of steps, cross the road, return on the 
right a short distance, and a passage to " the 
Ferry" offers itself on the left. The relief 
then from the busy hum of trade is enjoyed 
in the prospect of trees, water, &c. On crossing 
the Avon, the view is quite romantic all along 
the sides of the river, and the trees are seen drop- 
ping into the water. The ferry-boat, called "The 
Industry," has a flat broad bottom, commodious 
and very safe ; and for which accommodation 
one penny is paid. The Avon is narrow, and a 
rope is fixed to the trees from one side to the 
other, by which the ferryman pulls himself and 
his company over. Upon landing and turning to 
the right, a small walk presents itself with se- 
veral pleasing gardens, and the eye is not one 
instant at a loss for subjects, the variety being 
so great. The town of Bath, the Abbey, 
churches, lofty edifices, &c. occupying the 
mind of the contemplative pedestrian till he ar- 
rives at Henrietta- Street, where the door of 
some friend may, perhaps, invite him to rest 
himself from this pleasant and highly diversified 
walk. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 177 



WALK V. 



From Upper Camden- Place to Lansdow?i-Road, Mount- 
Pleasant, pass Spencer's Bell Vue and Lansdozcn- 
Grove. Lansd own- Place, East and West, and the 
Crescent. (All Saints' Chapel.) From Somer- 
set-Place, pass by Somerset-House to Cavendish 
Crescent and Place. Park-Place, Upper Park- 
Street and St. James's Square. Marlborough- 
Street and Marlborough-Buildings to the ROYAL 
CRESCENT. Return by Crescent-Fields through 
'Brock-Street, the Circus, Bennet-Street, pass 
Belmont-Row, the Belvidere, to Upper Camden- 
Place. 



Upper Camden-Place commands for miles a 
most interesting, extensive, and picturesque 
prospect. This fine high terrace, which is a 
delightful place of residence, possesses a broad 
pavement, a carriage-road in front of it, and en- 
closed with iron-raiis to render it perfectly safe. 
To the left of which is seen the handsome build- 
ings on the London-Road, that give such an 
elegant appearance to the entrance of Bath. 
The high hills in front of Camden-Place; Pryor- 
Park at a distance on the right ; a pleasing view 
of Sydney-Gardens and the New Church at 



178 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

Bathwick; the houses beneath, with Walcot 
Church and Chapel; added to other numerous 
objects which crowd upon the eye, form a pano- 
ramic view so rich and extensive, as only to be 
seen to gain admiration from the beholder. The 
winding of the Avon, and the venerable Abbey in 
perspective,tend to increase the beautyof the scene. 
The sloping of the houses also add to the effect. 
Turning to the right is the Lansdown-Road, 
opposite to which is the Belvidere-Hotel, leaving 
Mount-Pleasant on the left. Pass Spencer s 
Bell Vue, and on the right is Lansdown-Grove ; 
contiguous to which is Lansdown-Place, East 
and West, and the Crescent, which is considered 
the highest situation in Bath. It has a line 
pavement, carriage-road, iron-rails, lamps, &c. 
and a green plot for walking upon in the front of it. 
The Crescent is a noble pile of building ; and its 
extraordinary elevation is the admiration of every 
spectator, and which completely overlooks the 
City. By comparison, it is like looking down 
from the top of St. Paul's Cathedral into the 
streets of London. All Saints 1 Chapel is seen 
rising in the declivity, or grove, beneath the 
Crescent, and which is no trifling addition to this 
handsome range of houses. This chapel is a most 
elegant structure, and was built by a subscription 
of gentlemen, in the Gothic style, from a plan of 
Mr. Palmer, the architect, and was opened in 
1794. The interior of which is very pleasing 
and attractive. In length it is 64 feet, and in 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 179 

breadth 46 ; exclusive of four recesses, with a 
fire-place in each. It has a light oval gallery, 
which is supported by eight slender pillars, that 
also ascend to the roof. The central part of the 
ceiling, which is likewise oval, rises six feet 
higher than that over the gallery, and is deco- 
rated with rich stucco ornaments. Above the 
gallery are twelve large windows, upon which 
are the heads of the Apostles painted, and en- 
riched with variegated glass. A transparent 
painting of the Lord's Supper also decorates 
the window over the altar. Mr. Baker was the 
designer of all these ornaments. Contiguous 
to the Crescent is Somerset-Place, also a very 
elegant circular range of buildings, with a grass 
plot, &c. in the front of it. Descending from 
this lofty situation by Somerset-House the new 
row of very fine residences, called Cavendish- 
Creseent appears, which has also its small grass 
promenade attached to it. Pass by St. Winifred's 
Cottage to Cavendish-Place, which has to boast 
of virandas and balconies to most of the houses. 
Turning on the left is Park-Place, and on the 
right Upper Park- Street, which leads into St. 
James's Square. At every step the visitor takes, 
nothing but elegance meets his eye ; and pro- 
ceeding in a straight line the Square is left, Marl- 
borough-Street is passed, and at the bottom of 
Marlborough- Buildings, (a long range of re- 
spectable habitations,) the very acme and gran- 
deur of all Bath is now obtained, namely, the 
ROYAL CRESCENT. 



180 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

How many varied joys delight 

Thy subjects, morning, noon, and night, 

And make their moments pleasant : 
With boots and military heels, 
Some love to guide their tandem-wheels, 

And dash along the Crescent. 

The above Crescent, consisting of thirty 
houses, is of an elliptical form, with a single 
order of Ionic pillars, supporting the superior 
cornice. The fronts of the houses, which ter- 
minate each end of the Crescent, have an 
imposing effect. Independent of a wide pave- 
ment, a broad carriage-road, and a fine lawn in 
front, enclosed with iron rails, it has also a 
capacious gravel-walk for foot passengers. The 
Crescent -Fields, declining towards the Avon, 
with the addition of some charming subscription 
grounds, tastefully laid out, and in high cultiva- 
tion, with its delightful surrounding scenery, 
view of the City, and commanding prospect of 
the opposite hills, render the tout ensemble emi- 
nently fascinating. The above superb assem- 
blage of private residences may be pronounced 
without an equal in the kingdom ; but notwith- 
standing the spectator is almost momentarily 
lost in admiration with the beauty of their form, 
it appears, they have not escaped the rigid test 
of architectural criticism, and some degrees 
of fault have been found with the upper parts 
of the buildings. The Royal Crescent was 
built after the design of Mr. Wood, jun. to 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 181 

whom Bath is much indebted for his indefatiga- 
ble exertions and classic taste. No lodgings, it 
appears, are to be obtained in the Crescent; 
and it is often difficult to procure houses. At 
all times it is an attractive promenade for the 
visitors of Bath; but in the season, of a Sunday, 
it is also crowded with fashionables of every 
rank; and with the addition of the splendid 
barouche, dashing curricle, elegant tandem, 
gentlemen on horseback, &c. the Royal Cre- 
scent strongly reminds the spectator of Hyde- 
Park, Rotten-Row, and Kensington-Gardens, 
when adorned with all their brilliancy of com- 
pany. The smart trading inhabitants of the City, 
and numerously neatly-apparelled pretty females, 
(notwithstanding they have not had the good 
luck to have been born gentlewomen, here enjoy 
their leisure hour, participating in the pleasures 
which this delightful promenade affords them, 
and from which walk, wo fashionable rules can 
exclude their presence,) add not a little to the 
interest of the lively scene: — 

What is Bon Ton? 
Old dowagers dress'd, painted, patcb'd, and curl'd — 
This is Bon Ton, and this we call the World 1 
" True," says my lord, M and thou, my only son, 
Whatever your faults, ne'er sin against Bon Ton !" 
Each have their purlieus too, are modish each, 
In stated districts, wigs as well as speech : — 
* Ah ! I loves life, and all the joys it yields," 
Says Madam Fussock, warm from Spitalfields. 

R 



182 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

" Bon Ton's the space 'twixt Saturday and Monday, 
" And riding in a one-horse chair o' Sunday !" 
Such is Bon Ton ! and walk this city through, 
In building, scribbling, fighting, and virtii, 
And various other shapes, 'twill rise to view. 

On quitting the Royal Crescent, the visitor 
will soon pass through Brock-Street to the 
Circus. BenneUStreet leads to Behnont-Row ; 
and, upon passing the Belvidere, Upper Camden- 
Place is, at length, obtained : where, perhaps, 
some little refreshment and rest will not only 
prove extremely acceptable to the traveller, but 
enable him to recapitulate the various objects 
he has been delighted with throughout the whole 

Of this ELEVATED WALK. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 183 



WALK VI. 



ThePromenade to WESTON; the Hyde-Park, or 
Kensington-Gardens, of Bath. 

From the Libraries, in Milsom-Street, pass by Edgar- 
Buildings, through George- Street, into Gay-Street, 
and the Circus. From Brock-Street, pass by the 
Royal Crescent, Marlborough- Buildings, to 
Weston-Gate. Pass Sion-Hill, (House of Pro- 
tection,) on the Road, and Moravian Burying- 
Ground. The Village of Weston, (National 
School, the Church, and Burying-Ground). 
The Waterfall. Return through Barton 1 s 
Fields to Nile-Street and Norfolk-Crescent. 

Whether thou art wont to rove 

By Parade, or Orange Grove, 

Or to breathe a purer air 

In the Circus or the Square : 

Wheresoever be thy path, 

Tell, O tell, the joys of Bath. 



++•*■*-■*■ + ^r 



When the weather invites, a walk to the neat 
and pretty village of Weston cannot fail in af- 
fording gratification and delight to every visitor 
of Bath ; and, in the spring part of the season, it 
may be viewed as a grand promenade, and is well 



184 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

frequented by most of the fashionable company 
in the City. It is not only attractive from the 
shortness of its distance, which does not ex- 
ceed a mile and a half, but it should also seem, 
that the road to this interesting village being on 
level ground, accounts for its proving such an 
agreeable and pleasant walk to the quality, as 
scarcely any other situation in or about Bath, 
but the visitor has to experience the labour and 
fatigue of an ascent. After participating in the 
fashionable bustle in Milsom- Street, the perusal 
of the newspapers, conversation, &c. at the Li- 
braries, time enough is left, previous to dinner, 
to enjoy this little elegant tour. On quitting 
Milsom- Street, pass Edgar- Buildings, and 
turning to the left, George-Street leads to Gay- 
Street, and the Circus soon appears. It is 
true, that some fastidious judges of architecture 
have found fault with the dull uniformity (as 
they term it) of this place ; but to those persons 
who are not blessed with scientific vision, or 
having to boast of a microscopic eye to search 
for nothing else but blemishes and defects, which 
might almost be said to be completely out of 
sight, the Circus will be found weil worthy 
the observation of every man of taste, and ad- 
mirer of elegant mansions. Indeed, let the 
visitor go through the Circus as often as he 
will, it is almost impossible to pass such a fine 
range of buildings with indifference; nay more, 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 185 

without being impressed with their beauty and 
grandeur. Brock-Street is soon hurried through, 
till the Royal Crescent again demands the 
attention and admiration of the spectator. Of 
this, too, it might be observed, that even in Italy 
its excellence could not be forgotten. On the 
right, Marlborough-Buildings leads up to Wes- 
ton-Gate, when the visitor turns on his left into 
the road. The prospect is now enchanting on 
all sides, to the right of which are numerous ele- 
vations, the high Common, Sion-House, Winifred- 
House, &c. the ascent to which is gained by a 
pleasing field. At the bottom of Sion-Hill is 
the House of Protection, established in 1805, 
for the benefit of young females when dismissed 
from school or destitute of friends ; the number 
being limited to twelve, and none admitted un- 
der thirteen. Lady Isabella King is the Patro- 
ness, assisted by eight Lady Governesses ; three 
gentlemen also as Guardians ; and a Treasurer. 
The governesses take it in turn to visit the house 
daily, from 12 till 2, to hear the girls read, &c. 
they are likewise taught sewing, washing, and 
every thing necessary to qualify them as good 
servants. One of the governesses also attends 
on a Sunday to teach them their religious duties. 
No girl can be admitted without bringing with 
her a proper change of clothes ; also a good 
character, and the certainty of her distressed 
situation. It is supported by subscriptions ; 

R 2 



186 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

and its benefits are confined to the inhabitants 
of Bath. On continuing along the road the 
prospect on the ieft of which is extensive and 
pleasing; and the Burying-Ground, with a small 
house attached to it, belonging to the sect of 
Moravians is here situated. On passing through 
two fields on the right of the road, the visitor 
arrives at the Village of Weston. The houses 
are all built of freestone ; and this little retreat, 
which is occupied by numerous laundresses, has 
altogether a superior appearance. The " Vil- 
lage" in unison with " the National School," 
is a plain neat building ; the boys are educated 
on the one side, and the girls on the other. 
At the extremity of the Village is a Waterfall, 
well worthy the observation of the spectator. 
The Church is a small erection; but the nu- 
merous monuments in its Burying-Ground are 
highly attractive and interesting, the principal 
part of which are enclosed in iron rails ; most 
of the inscriptions are cut upon a black ground, 
with the letters gilt, and the ornaments are of 
gold. At the upper end of the Ground is a 
new monument, made of freestone, by Harris, 
sen. of Bath, the execution of which displays 
much talent as a piece of sculpture. The de- 
sign consists of four slight Ionic pillars, which 
support the top of the monument ; under which 
is a marble urn, with some elegant folds of dra- 
pery attached to it. The whole is encircled 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 187 

with iron rails, and a chevaux-de-frieze of iron 

is also at the top. The urn bears the following 

inscription : — 

Beneath this tomb 

are deposited the remains of the late 

Right Honourable 

Charlotte Viscountess Newcomen, 

of Carricikglass, in the County of Longford, 

In the Kingdom of Ireland, 

Who died May 16, 1817, aged 69. 

Upon the side of it are the following lines: — 

This monument was erected by her ladyship's only son, the 
Right Hon. Lord Viscount Newcomen, as a tribute of 
duty and affection. 

- 

In the front of the above tomb, the coat of arms 
and the supporters are well executed. 

At no great distance there is also another 
peculiarly neat monument of freestone, by 
W. Lancashire, of Bath, dedicated to Marianna 
Juliane Watson, grand-daughter of the late 
Bishop of LandafF, aged 6 years and 9 months. 

Of such is the kingdom of God. 

Both these monuments reflect great credit on 
the above natives of Bath, for neatness of design 
and elegance of execution. 

In this Churchyard, the remains of poor 
Lovegrove, the comedian, are also deposited. 
He was highly respected both on the Bath and 
London boards ; not only admired as a perfor- 
mer of considerable talents, but, what is far more 



188 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

lasting, valued as an honest worthy member of 
society. His personification of Lord Ogelby 
was a masterpiece of the art. But alas ! 

Where are the jesters now ? the men of health 
Complexionately pleasant ? Where the droll, 
Whose every look and gesture was a joke 
To clapping theatres and shouting crowds, 
And make ev'n thick-lip' d musing Melancholy 
To gather up her face into a smile 
Before she was aware ? Ah, sullen now, 
And dumb as the green turf that covers them ! 

On quitting this " complexion , ,y (to which, 
sooner or later, we must all arrive at.) once 
more to gain the public road to get back to 
Bath, the following emphatic words are painted 
upon a board, by order of the Overseers of 
the parish : " Take Notice, the idle and dis- 
orderly of every sort and kind, found wandering 
in and about Weston, will be dealt with ac- 
cording to law/' The above is rather a sort of 
sweeping clause; and although it includes idlers 
of every sort and kind, yet it can hardly be 
presumed, that the Overseers had temerity 
enough to include in their meaning the numerous 
gentlemen idlers with which Bath always 
abounds. On the right is a very handsome re- 
sidence, with park-gates, lawn, &c. belonging to 
Miss Whitehead. On passing this estate a short 
distance, an opening leads to the Upper Bristol- 
Road. Although the visitor, in returning to 
Bath, may be considered as retracing his steps, 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 189 

yet the prospect assumes a different aspect ; 
but if he wishes not to return exactly to the 
place from whence he set out, he can diversify 
the scene by turning off into Barton s Fields 
on the right, get into the road, go down Nile- 
Street, and pay a morning visit to some friend, 
in that elegant situation called Norfolk-Crescent, 
or, if an invitation offers, stop and partake of a 
dinner. 



190 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 



WALK VII. 



AN AQUATIC STROLL. 

From the Old Bridge, Boad-Quay, contiguous to 
Clarke's Lane, Duck-Street, Wine-Street, and the 
Lower Borough Walls, (Bath City Infirmary; 
Catharine's and Bellot's Hospital); pass by 
Little Corn, Avon, and Milk Streets. New-Quay, 
Kingsmead- Terr ace, Green-Park-Buildings, West, 
Green-Park-Place, East, near to which are Sey- 
mour, Charles, and James Streets. Proceed to 
Norfolk- Crescent, the Gasometer, and Brooke's 
Lock. — Return by the Upper Bristol- Road, 
Mancroft-Place, Nelson-Street, into Nile-Street, 
and pass the entrance to Norfolk-Crescent, into 
Stanhope and New King-Streets, (Methodist 
Chapel,) and Kingsmead - Street, (Casualty 
Hospital,) Monmouth- Street, (United Bre- 
thren's Chapel ; Bath Association for 
aiding the Missions of the United Bre- 
thren, and the Union Blue School.) Stable- 
Lane to the Queen's Parade. 



Independent of its connecting Holloway 
with Bath, and leading to the Upper Bristol- 
Road, the Old Bridge, viewed as a structure, 
creates but little attraction to the eye of the 
visitor. On the right of which, from Horse- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 191 

Street, is Broad-Quay ; but, notwithstanding 
the important name of Quay is attached to it, 
no bustle is experienced at this place, and it 
might be termed a river without any business; as 
merely a few stones lying on the ground from 
the different quarries, with not above a strag- 
gling solitary barge or two, are to be seen, 
seems the principal feature of traffic, which 
occupies the inhabitants of a few little houses 
situated alongside of the water. Still, however, 
this aquatic stroll is pleasing, and not without 
its advantages by comparison. On the opposite 
side of the river are a few dull, worn-out build- 
ings, or warehouses. Contiguous to the Broad- 
Quay are the following places, Clarke's Lane, 
Back-Street, G err ard- Street, Wine-Street, and 
the Lower Borough Walls, In the latter situation 
stands the Bath City Infirmary and Dispensary 
for the Sick Poor. It is a most excellent institu- 
tion, and the only general place for the sick 
poor of the City of Bath ; and which is sup- 
ported by annual subscriptions ; but persons 
receiving parish pay are inadmissible. Vaccina- 
tion is also performed here gratis. The house 
is large^ it appears, but, owing to the contracted 
state of the funds, numbers cannot be relieved. 
Near to which is St. Catharine's Hospital, the 
Bimberries, or Black Alms, a very mean struc- 
ture of fourteen habitations, for paupers of both 
sexes. The inhabitants of which receive 3s. 6d. 



J 92 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

per week, and a black coat every two years. Here 
is also Bellot's Hospital, in Belltree-Lane, only 
open in the warmer months, from Ladyday to 
Michaelmas, where twelve men and women, 
strangers to Bath, are lodged, and have a pri- 
vilege of using the baths. It was founded in 
the reign of James I. by Tho. Bellot, Esq. 

Little Corn-Street is passed without claiming 
any sort of observation; but Avon-Street, the 
receptacle for unfortunate women, calls forth 
very different sensations : and although it may be 
termed the Wapping of Bath, it is but common 
justice to observe, that it is far removed from 
the disgusting scenes which are so publicly wit- 
nessed at this memorable place at the east end 
of the Metropolis. With all the vigilance of 
the police of this elegant City, and its active 
Corporation towards removing public nuisances, 
Bath, in the height of its season, has its share 
of the frail sisterhood ; but their language, man- 
ners, and demeanour, are not of that very ob- 
trusive nature which characterize these unhappy 
females iu London, Liverpool, andDublin. Houses 
of ill-fame (or if a more genteel phrase is accept- 
able, in the terms Bagnios, for such houses) 
are to be discovered in Bath. Upon the search- 
nights, which generally commence with much 
activity upon the accession of a new Mayor into 
office, some females of rather a higher cast, 
with their amorous gallants, have been obliged 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 193 

to acknowledge or show a sort of passport, to 
account for their awkward situations, before 
they could obtain a discharge the next morning. 

Unknown by thee, how often did I meet 
The loveliest forms of nature in the street, 

The fair, the black, the lasling brown! 
And, whilst their charms enraptur'd I survey'd, 
This pretty legend on their lips I read — 

" Kisses, O gentle shepherd, for a crown." 

Blest is the man who marks the cherry lip, 
And sigheth not its nectar'd sweets to sip, 

Nor press the heaving hills of purest snow ; 
Who marks the love-alluring waist so taper, 
Without one wish, or pulse's single caper, 

And to his hurrying passions cries out, ** NO !" 

Stop, if you please, young imps, your hot career, 
And shun the precipice of Fate so near ; 
Draw in, or, with the horses of the sun, 
You drive like Phaeton, to be undone. 

On quitting Avon-Street, pass by Milk- Street, 
and the visitor arrives at the New Quay ; this 
latter designation, which generally indicates 
trade, is equally unimportant in point of bustle 
with the former Quay, and is merely a name ; 
but where the prospect becomes more interest- 
ing and picturesque. The situation of the river 
is here rural and romantic, and the spectator 
has no reason to regret the walk he has under- 
taken. Kingsmead-Terrace, a pretty, really an 
elegant residence, with handsome gardens before 
it, claims an attractive attention from the pas- 

s 



194 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

senger. Proceeding forwards, is Green-Park- 
Buildings, West, which is an elevated situation, 
railed in, and also a delightful residence, con- 
sisting of two sides, that of Green-Park-Place, 
East, being joined to it, and brought to an 
angle, with a field between them ; the point 
of the angle leading to Seymour, Charles, and 
James Streets. The effect is pleasing ; and the 
look-out from the above buildings across the ri- 
ver, added to the distant bills intersected with 
trees, &c. is very fine. On proceeding farther, 
at a short distance Norfolk-Crescent developes 
itself, containing twenty-nine houses, not only of 
a lofty character, but modelled after the most 
elegant style of architecture. It has a fine broad 
pavement, well lighted, and a long and enclosed 
piece of garden before the Crescent, which is 
laid out in a very picturesque style. The veran- 
das and balconies attached to the houses tend 
to increase their elegant appearance. Various 
new erections are also taking place in this part, 
which strongly evince the disposition of the na- 
tives of Bath to extend their City ; and likewise 
a great proof of their increase in population. 
Few boats are seen gliding along the " Avon ;" 
not that Avon which has been so beautifully 
and poetically described by the inimitable Gar- 
rick, in honour of our immortal bard : — 

Thou soft-flowing Avon, by thy silver stream, 
Of things more than mortal sweet Shakspeare would 
dream ; 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 195 

The fairies by moonlight dance round his green bed, 
For hallow'd the turf is which pillow'd his head. 

The love-stricken maiden, the soft sighing swain, 
Here rove without danger, and sigh without pain. 

It is however not altogether improbable, that 
the romantic and interesting situation of the 
Somerset Avon may yet inspire some poet to 
breathe out his effusions in its praise ; * but 
that it has often been the sacred spot where the 
" love-stricken maiden " and " the soft-sighing 
swain " have sworn eternal constancy, admits 
not of the least shadow of doubt. The nume- 
rous tender assignations in Bath admit the fact : 

O ye guardian spirits fair, 
All who make true love your care, 
May I oft my Romeo meet, 
Oft enjoy his converse sweet ; 
I alone his thoughts employ, 
Through each various scene of joy. 

It is well known that the banks of the Avon 
often occupied the once interesting moments of 
the late Richard Brinsley Sheridan, Esq. and of 
his most accomplished and highly-amiable part- 
ner, when Miss Linley. 

In continuing this walk, a little hut has the 
following notice, " Live Fish sold here/' an 
article of food acceptable everywhere ; at some 
distance from this place may be seen the Gas- 
ometer, situate at Brook's Lock, from which 

* It should however be recollected, it has not entirely 
escaped the Muse of Anstey. 



196 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

the City of Bath is illumined with its gas. — 
This spot has been chosen with much care and 
propriety for the erection of a gasometer, as no 
danger is likely to'occur in such an open space, 
and more especially for the opportunity it offers 
for the evaporation of any smell or effluvia, 
which might otherwise arise from the consump- 
tion of the ingredients to make the gas. In 
order that this walk may not prove too long, as 
well as to create some diversity of scene, the 
visitor can return to the City, close by the 
side of the gasometer, on the right, and the 
Upper Bristol-Road is soon gained. Here the 
view is changed, the Crescent-Fields, the Royal 
Crescent, Sion-Hill, &c. present themselves on 
the left, which altogether form a charming pic- 
ture. Pass Mancroft-Place, the Albion-Brewery, 
Nelson- Street, and keep in a straight line till 
Nile-Street leads down to the entrance of Nor- 
folk-Crescent* On the left of which is Stanhope 
and New King Streets. This is a respectable 
retired situation, and where good lodgings are 
to be procured. The Methodist, or Wesley an > 
Chapel is a large neat building, and has a very 
numerous and increasing congregation.* It has 

* It is thus Anstey, in his New Bath Guide, accounts 
for it. — 

Miss Prudence B — n — r — d informs Lady Betty 
that she has been elected to Methodism by a vision. 
Hearken, Lady Betty, hearken, 
To the dismal news I tell, 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 197 

a choir of singers, a good organ, and a gallery 
attached to it. The Ministers are termed Evan- 
gelical Preachers, and are changed according to 
the discipline and rules of this sect. Preaching 
twice every Sunday, and on Monday and Friday 
evenings. It is highly worthy of remark that 

How your friends are all embarking 
For the fiery gulf of hell. 

Brother Sirapkin's grown a rakehell, 

Cards and dances every day, 
Jenny laughs at Tabernacle, 

Tabby Runt is gone astray. 

Blessed I, though once rejected, 

Like a little wand'ring sheep, 
Who this morning was elected 

By a vision in my sleep. 

For I dream'd an apparition 
Came, like Roger, from above, 

Saying, " by divine commission, 
" I must fill you full of love." 

Just with Roger's head of hair on, 
Roger's mouth and pious smile, 

Sweet, methinks, as beard of Aaron, 
Dropping down with holy oil. 

I began to fall a-kicking, 

Panted, struggled, strove in vain, 

When the spirit whipt so quick in, 
I was cur'd of all my pain. 

First I thought it was the night-mare 

Lay so heavy on my brea: ; 
But I found new joy and light there, 

When with heavenly love possess'd. 

s2 



198 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

The Strangers' Friend Society was established at 
Bath, in 1790, by the above description of per- 
sons, and formed upon the broadest principles 
of liberality. It is totally unbiassed by party- 
distinctions, and the only thing necessary to be 
known is — a sufficient proof of distress ; when 
this circumstance is ascertained to be the fact, 
the person is relieved, without regard to the 
causes of that distress, and which is also accom- 
panied by administering such religious advice 
and consolation as may be deemed necessary. 
It is supported by voluntary contributions, and 
well worthy the imitation of every religious sect 
in the kingdom. Proceeding onwards is Kings- 
mead-Street, where that most excellent charita- 
ble institution is situated— the Casualty Hos- 
pital. It was established, about thirty years 
since, by Mr. Norman, surgeon, and supported 
by donations and annual subscriptions. When- 
ever an accident takes place, the unfortunate 
object is instantly admitted into the house, 
where he is provided with an apartment^ a bed, 
good provisions, a careful nurse, and the best 
medical and surgical assistance. Some very fine 
cures have been made in the Casualty Hos- 
pital. In the same street the Bath Journal is 
also published. In Monmouth-Street, which is 
contiguous to Kingsmead- Street, is situated the 
Moravian, or the United Brethrens' Chapel ; it is a 
small neat building, and has a good organ. Service 
is performed twice every Sunday, and on Wednes- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 199 

day evenings. The Bath Association for aiding 
the Missions of the United Brethren in spread- 
ing the blessings of Christianity among the Hot- 
tentots, and in North and South America, &c. 
is likewise held here. The treasurer of this 
Institution is the Minister of the above sect. 
The Union Blue-Coat School, which professes 
to be open to all parties and professions, is also 
in Monmouth- Street. The children are clothed 
annually ; taught the principles of religion and 
morality ; and, also, the means of acquiring a 
decent living. Stable-Lane, from the above 
street, leads into Queen's Parade, when the 
visitor, in all probability, may feel himself 
rather fatigued with the variety of interesting 
objects which have claimed his attention through- 
out this aquatic walk, and feel no objection to 
participate in some refreshment and rest. 



200 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 



WALK VIII. 



From High -Street, through Bridge-Street, across Pulte- 
ney-Bridge, through Argyle Buildings, (Independ- 
ent Meeting-House,) and Laura-Place. Pass 
Grove, Johnston, and Henrietta Streets. Through 
Great Pulteney- Street, passing William and Sun- 
derland Streets to Sydney Hotel and Gardens, 
At the top of Sydney-Place, on the right, stands 
the QUEEN'S HOUSE. 



The Triumph of Winter is o'er, 
And Spring re-illumines the plain; 

The breezes are balmy once more ; 
Adieu to the wind and the rain. 

The Pump -Room attraction now ceases, 
For Fashion no more lingers there ; 

The Fair-ones throw off their pelisses, 
And cooler apparel prepare. 

In Sydney Vauxhall, with your Venus, 
The bustle of Bond-Street we'll shun, 

Whilst pendant labarnums shall skreen us 
Awhile from the heat of the sun. 

From the bustle of High-Street, occasioned by 
the business done at the Town-Hall, the buz 
of the numerous persons in going to and from 







4 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 201 

the Market-House to procure the necessary ar- 
ticles of life, which this latter place so finely 
and abundantly affords, added to the noise from 
the continual arrival and departure of the vari- 
ous stage coaches, an immediate contrast is ol*- 
tained from a most elegant and quiet walk, which 
presents itself in turning down by the White 
Lion Inn, at the corner of Bridge-Street. 
Pulteney -Bridge is soon crossed over, which, 
from its communication with the other side of 
the town, has produced incalculable advantages 
to Bath. From this place, the view of Sydney 
Hotel and entrance to the Gardens, which ap- 
pear at the bottom of Great Pulteney -Street, 
not only operates as a complete finish to the 
admirable piles of architecture by which it is 
surrounded, but it has a very pleasing and ele- 
gant effect. Adjoining to the above bridge is 
Ar gyle- Buildings, in which is situated Gibbon's 
Public Library, and also the Independent Meet- 
ing-House, (Mr. Jay's,) which is a lofty hand- 
some building ; and its interior is very neat and 
pleasing. It has also an excellent choir of 
singers, who are accompanied by a fine-toned 
organ; a capacious gallery, and very commo- 
dious pews. Divine service is performed twice 
every Sunday, and on Thursday evenings. 
Grove-Street is on the left, and at the bottom of 
which is a pleasing view of Walcot Parade and 
Terrace. Proceeding forwards Laura-Place, 
which is very capacious, is seen to much ad- 



202 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

vantage: and the houses all round it have a 
very imposing appearance; in the middle of 
Laura-Place is a small enclosure, with iron 
rails, which gives it rather the look of a square. 
To the right is Johnstone-Street, also composed 
of elegant mansions, and at the bottom of 
which the prospect is delightful, embracing an 
extensive view of Prior-Park, and its superb 
mansion ; the sprinkling of trees, houses, and 
hills ; the Sham Castle on the left. In the road 
at no great distance is to be observed a new 
range of houses ; and farther improvements are 
still aimed at in this quarter, by the formation 
of a circular road, for which purpose, it is said, 
ground has already been marked out. Upon the 
other side of Laura-Place is Henrietta-Street, 
in which is Laura-Chapel, which is a very ele- 
gant and commodious building, and opened for 
divine service in 1796. It was built on a ton- 
tine subscription ; and is rendered very comfort- 
able in the winter season bv several fires. It 
may not be improper to observe, that strangers, 
admitted once into a seat in this place of wor- 
ship, are expected upon any future attendance 
to rent a sitting. A good view of Bacon-Hill is 
obtained at the bottom of this street. From 
Laura-Place, Great Pulteney -Street now ap- 
pears in all its architectural grandeur : the uni- 
formity of the houses ; the extent of the car- 
riage-road; the width of the pavements, and 
its great cleanliness, all combine to give Great 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 203 

Pultcney- Street that sort of importance and air 
of quality, which every visitor must feel in pass- 
ing through it. IVilliam-Street, on the right, 
possesses a pretty view towards Widcome, from 
the middle of Great Pulteney- Street. The look- 
out from Sunder land- Street, on the left, is ex- 
tremely grand ; the high hills, the ranges of 
various buildings at Walcot, rising proudly 
higher and higher, give it a sort of amphitheatric 
appearance, like ancient Rome, and relieved by 
the garden-grounds beneath, form a very inte- 
resting picture. The entrance to Sydney Ta- 
vern and Gardens has to boast of much respec- 
tability ; and the tavern is a capacious and 
elegant erection. 

Sydney-Gardens is one of the most pro- 
minent, pleasing, and elegant features attached 
to the City of Bath. The hand of taste is 
visible in every direction of it ; and the plants 
and trees exhibit the most beautiful luxuriance. 
Upon gala-nights, the music, singing, cascades, 
transparencies, fire-works, and superb illumina- 
tions, render these gardens very similar to Vaux- 
hall. The Orchestra is close to the back of the 
Tavern, neatly arranged and elevated, with a 
large open space before it, well gravelled. The 
gradual ascent of the principal walk, that leads 
to the top of the gardens up to a half-circular 
stone pavillion, which is paved and covered in, 
with a seat round it, and supported by several 
stone pillars, upon a gala-night has a most bril- 



204 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

liant effect, from the numerous variegated lamps 
with which it is ornamented. The walks are all 
well rolled and gravelled ; and seats and places 
for refreshment are to be met with in various 
parts of the gardens. The view, when seated in 
the above pavillion down to the orchestra, 
across arches covered with lamps, gives it a 
very captivating appearance. Upon those nights 
set apart for promenading only, a military band 
attends ; and music also enlivens the scene, 
when public breakfasts are given. There are 
also several swings, adapted for the ladies; and 
others for gentlemen. Numerous covered-in 
boxes ; and several alcoves formed with much 
botanical taste, grottos, &c. render this pro- 
menade highly attractive during the summer 
evenings. In the most retired parts of the gar- 
dens one of these grottos, it appears, was once 
the happy meeting-place, and dedicated to the 
tender passion, with a sincerity and animation 
unrivalled, by one of the greatest geniuses that 
ever adorned this or any other country, but who 
is gone to that " bourne from whence no tra- 
veller returns/' following the superior, amiable, 
and affectionate object of his heart, who had 
also long been previously consigned to the icy 
tomb of death. The remembrance of the late 
Richard Brinsley Sheridan, Esq. and his 
wife, Miss Linley, (termed the syren and angei of 
the concerts at Bath,) must render this grotto 
a most interesting feature to every lover of ta- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 205 

lent, elegance, and virtue, and in which the 
following copy of verses were written by the 
above patriotic senator, and left for that lady's 
perusal : — 

Uncouth is this moss-cover'd grotto of stone, 

And damp is the shade of this dew-dripping tree ; 

Yet I this rude grotto with rapture will own ; 
And willow, thy damps are refreshing to me. 

In this is the grotto where Delia reclin'd, 
As late I in secret her confidence sought ; 

And this is the tree kept her safe from the wind 
As blushing she heard the grave lesson I taught. 

Then tell me, thou grotto of moss-cover'd stone, 
And tell me, thou willow with leaves diipping dew, 

Did Delia seem vex'd when Horatio was gone ? 
And did she confess her resentment to you ? 

Methinks now each bough, as you're waving it, tries 
To whisper a cause for the sorrow I feel ; 

To hint how she frown'd when I dar'd to advise, 
And sigh'd when she saw that I did it with zeal. 

True, true, silly leaves, so she did, I allow ; 

She frown'd ; but no rage in her looks did I see : 
She frown'd ; but reflection had clouded her brow : 

She sigh'd ; but, perhaps, 'twas in pity for me. 

Then wave thy leaves brisker, thou willow of woe ; 

I tell thee, no rage in her looks could I see ; 
I cannot, I will not, believe it was so, 

She was not, she could not, be angry with me. 

For well did she know that my heart meant no wrong ; 

It sunk at the thought but of giving her pain ; 
But trusted its task to a faultering tongue, 

Which err'd from the feelings it could not explain. 

T 



206 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

Yet, oh I if, indeed, I've offended the maid ; 

If Delia ray humble monitions refuse ; 
Sweet willow, the next time she visits thy shade, 

Fan gently her bosom, and plead my excuse. 

And thou, stone grot, in thy arch might preserve 
Two lingering drops of the night-fallen dew ; 

And just let them fall at her feet, and they'll serve 
As tears of my sorrow intrusted to you. 

Or, lest they unheeded should fall at her feet, 

Let them fall on her bosom of snow ; and to swear, 

The next time I visit thy moss-cover'd seat, 
I'll pay thee each drop with a genuine tear. 

So may 'st thou, green willow, for ages thus toss 

Thy branches so lank o'er the slow winding stream ; 

And thou, stone grotto, retain all thy moss, 

While yet there's a poet to make thee his theme. 

Nay, more — mav my Delia still give you her charms 
Each ev'ning, and sometimes the whole ev'ning long; 

Then, grotto, be proud, to support her white arm, 
Then, willow, wave all thy green tops to her song. 

Upon the whole, Sydney-Gardens must be 
viewed not only as a great ornament to Bath, 
but is another, among the numerous proofs of 
the great anxiety of the inhabitants to render 
the amusements of this elegant City, without a 
parallel in the kingdom ! The Kennet and Avon 
Canal runs through the gardens, with two ele- 
gant cast-iron bridges thrown over it, after the 
manner of the Chinese ; and the romantic and 
picturesque scenery, by which they are sur- 
rounded, is fascinating beyond measure. Great 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 207 

opposition, it seems, was originally made to the 
canal running through these gardens by the 
proprietor ; but it gives such a variety to the 
walks, that its introduction is now viewed as a 
<*reat addition. It would be a matter of some 
difficulty to point out a spot of ground so taste- 
fully laid out as Sydney-Gardens. Vaux- 
hall, it is true, may boast of its superiority for 
brilliancy, and number of lamps, and vocal per- 
formers ; but, in other respects, viewed as a 
garden, the competition would be perfectly ri- 
diculous. The Labyrinth, shown here at three- 
pence each person, is an object of curiosity. 
The inducement to enter it is one of Merlin's 
swing's, which appears not only very prominent, 
but easy of access. However, it might puzzle 
any cunning person, if left to himself and with- 
out a clue, for six hours, to acquire the much 
wished for spot ; and it is rather a difficult task 
when the explorer of the Labyrinth has the di- 
rection pointed out to him from a man stationed 
in the swing. The inns and outs necessary to 
be made, it is said, measure half a mile. When 
the swing is made, and the secret unravelled, 
the guardian of this sort of Fair Rosamond's 
bower convevs the visitor once more into the 
public walks ; the variety of which, that con- 
tinually meet the eye of the promenader are 
truly attractive. A most delightful piece of 
ground, like a bowling-green, enveloped with 
trees, and a small natural cascade from a spring, 



208 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

cannot be passed with indifference. The com- 
pany, generally, are of the most respectable de- 
scription; and upon some of the gala-nights, 
upwards of 4000 persons have paid for admis- 
sion, which is 2s. 6d. each. In fact, the most 
fastidious observer cannot find fault with Syd- 
ney-Gardens, which have also another advan- 
tage to recommend them to the visitors of Bath, 
namely, in having a surrounding ride, for the 
accommodation of ladies and gentlemen on 
horseback, that commands beautiful and ro- 
mantic views, and of being free from dust in 
the summer, and dirt in the winter. The terms 
of subscription for walking are for one month, 
each person, 4s.; for three months, 7*. 6tf. ; and 
the season, 10s. If two in one family, each 
7s. 6d.; ditto, if three or more, each 6s. Non- 
subscribers, for walking, 6d. each time. Nursery- 
maids with children in arms, one subscription. 
Gentlemen and families may be accommodated 
with elegant apartments at Sydney-House. The 
terms of subscription to the ride, one month, 
•2s. 6d. each person. Three months, 6s. Six 
months, 10s. The year, 15s. Non subscribers, 
6d. each time. 

On leaving the Gardens and turning round to 
the left, at the bottom of Sydney Place stands, 
what is now called the Queen's House, from 
her late Majesty having occupied it during her 
visit to Bath. Its principal recommendation, it 
seems, was its capaciousness, as her Majesty 




J)ra»>ri fc Sif * iy —.S. Surer. 



~^c^e^?z^ clyi^^J^. 



ledJ)eci iffzS. ty Sherw?p£ & C." 






WALKS THROUGH BATH. 209 

had given the preference to the Royal Cres- 
cent; but, in consequence of not being able 
to procure four houses at this most delightful 
spot, which were required to contain the suite 
of persons in attendance upon the Queen, the 
above mansion was considered as the most eligi- 
ble for the reception of royalty. Over the por- 
tico of the hall -door is a look-out entirely 
covered with glass, like a lantern. Every ex- 
ertion was used to render it comfortable and 
convenient to her Majesty ; and a barren gravel- 
pit, which appeared in front of the house, was 
soon metamorphosed into a pleasant shrubbery ; 
a mast was also erected in the middle of it, and 
upon which the royal flag was hoisted. The 
bed-chamber commands a fine prospect of the 
adjacent country, Prior - Park, fyc. fyc. An 
interesting view of Sydney - Gardens also en- 
riches the drawing-room. This apartment was 
furnished by her Majesty's upholsterer, assisted 
by several tradesmen of the City of Bath. It 
had a magnificent appearance, and completely 
in unison with the taste of royalty. The furni- 
ture and carpet were grey ; and the chairs and 
tables made of delicately looking rose-wood. 
Of an evening it was brilliantly illuminated from 
a twelve-light chandelier, suspended in the centre 
of the room. The pavement is full six yards wide 
in front of the house; and which is contiguous to 
a new street forming, to be called Upper Great 
Pulteney - Street, and will be, when finished, 

t2 



210 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

fourteen feet wider than any other street in Bath. 
The whole of this neighbourhood is truly at- 
tractive ; and the visifor may retrace his steps 
without the fear of encountering monotony ; but, 
on the contrary, the superiority of the archi- 
tecture will bear the most minute inspection with 
increased satisfaction and interest till he returns 
to High-Street. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 211 



WALK IX. 



From Great Pulteney-Street, turn down into Grove- 
Street, (Bridewell; and the Girls' Free- 
School,) alongside of the Avon ; pass Waterloo- 
Place into Widcombe. To Prior-Park, through 
Allen's Walk to the Mansion- House; pass Isabella 
and Prospect Places, and Byfield-Buildings toCombe- 
Dozvn, into the Stone- Quarry . Return by Cla- 
verton Down to the " Brass Knocker," from 
thence to the AQUEDUCT. Walk between the 
Avon and the Canal. Claverton- Church, fyc. to 
Bath- Hampton. Bailbrook- Lodge ; through Syd- 
ney-Place to Great Pulteney-Street. 



In starting from Great Pulteney-Street, the 
visitor will, for a moment, turn aside from the 
mansions of fashion and elegance, to take a 
cursory view of the abode of depravity and 
misconduct, in order to render the view of this 
highly-famed city complete and impartial. At 
the bottom of Grove- Street, on the right, stands 
the Bridewell of Bath, on a piece of ground 
160 feet each way, the exterior of which is 
more like the residence of a gentleman, from 
^its architectural taste, than the gloomy walls of 



212 WALKS THROUGH BATH* 

a prison. It is from the iron bars across the 
windows that principally designates its charac- 
ter; but, " disguise thyself as thou wilt," observes 
Sterne, " still thou art a bitter draught V The 
interior is clean, though small ; and the yards for 
the different degrees of crime too much confined 
for room. The small house in the middle of the 
whole area is kept solely for the confinement of 
the felons, but which appears scarcely big enough 
to contain a dozen persons. It is also a prison for 
debtors. Plans, it is said, are under the con- 
sideration of the Corporation to erect a New 
Gaol, or to enlarge the present prison; but its 
inhabitants, however, are seldom numerous, 
owing to its well-regulated police. In returning 
up Grove-Street, (which also contains the Girls 7 
Free-School, a most excellent institution, and 
under the immediate protection of the Rev. Mr. 
Warner,) an archway presents itself, which leads 
immediately to the side of the Avon ; and, pro- 
ceeding along the banks of the river, enjoying 
the view of the various fine elevations, the vene- 
rable Abbey, &c. Waterloo-Place is soon passed, 
and, on turning to the left, the main street of 
Widcombe, this suburb of Bath is gained. This 
outlet has also to boast of the high-sounding 
names of Widcombe- Parade and Claverton- 
Place. Turning on the right, at the bottom of 
the Parade, the Poor-House, on a small hill, 
is pleasantly and healthfully situated. At a 
little distance from this spot is a large pair of 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 213 

gates, which protect the private road to Prior- 
Park, the once celebrated seat of the benevo- 
lent Ralph Allen, Esq. On the left of 
which, upon a very high eminence, stands the 
back part of Widcombe- Crescent, a range of 
very handsome buildings. The prospect now 
becomes pleasing, from the sprinkling of ele- 
gant houses, particularly a small thatched 
Gothic cottage, upon a hill, on the right, which 
serves to show the excellent taste adopted by 
the builders of Bath. Pursuing a steady course, 
another gate is passed, which originally was 
called " Allen's Walk." The considerate 
disposition of this humane character had indu- 
ced him, for the accommodation of the public, 
to erect, in several parts of this walk, stone 
seats ; but all of which are now removed. A 
road to the left leads to Widcombe Church. 
On a very lofty eminence stands the fine seat of 
Mr. Tugwell, the banker. The spectator here 
becomes so enraptured with the surrounding 
scene, that for a moment he is lost in ecstacy in 
beholding the beauties of nature and art com- 
bined. To the right, on one side of the road, 
are fine lofty elm-trees, which, during the 
time of Allen, were growing on both sides, 
and their boughs so closely entwined with each 
other, as to form in the winter-time a most sin- 
gular but complete picture of a long Gothic 
arch. At an opening, a few yards further along 
the road, on turning round to take a look at 



214 WALKS THROUGH BATH- 

the City, the Royal Crescent appears with pe- 
culiar grandeur ; in fact, the whole circle, for 
richness and luxuriance of prospect, defies re- 
cital. In peeping over a stone-wall, about four 
feet high, on the left side of the road, the 
pleasure-grounds beneath, belonging to Prior- 
House, appear in fine cultivation ; and the water, 
and the foliage of the chesnut, fir, and elm trees 
increase the effect. On proceeding up the road, 
a slight view of the mansion - house appears, 
also the residence for the keeper, and upon an 
ascent on the left, an antique look-out. By the 
side of the road stands a piece of freestone, as 
a sort of sample, to show how very large some 
of them are brought from the quarries. It 
measures in height twelve feet, and three in 
breadth. A few steps farther, and the traveller 
experiences the pleasing sensation of treading 
upon classical British ground : a spot, that 
must ever prove dear to the lovers of literature, 
when it is remembered, that it was here the 
inimitable Fielding produced his Tom Jones, 
(that standard of novels in the English language ;) 
and to which may be added, several literary 
works were also written by that most powerful 
enlightened scholar and wit Bishop Warbur- 
ton. With these recollections, Prior-Park- 
House becomes of the most interesting nature ; 
and it cannot be viewed merely for its delightful 
situation, beautiful grounds, and distinguished 
architecture ; nor passed over with the common 




- 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 215 

routine of a gentleman's estate. From the vir- 
tues of its once liberal-minded proprietor, and 
the extraordinary talents of its inmates, such as 
Pope, Fielding, and Warburton, it pos- 
sesses far more sterling claims to respect and 
admiration. 

Prior-Park- House is so called from the 
circumstance of its having been built on land 
which formerly belonged to the prior of Bath, 
who had a grange, or farm, at a short distance 
from it, and a park that supplied the monastery 
with venison. It was erected by the celebrated 
Ralph Allen, Esq. in 1743, on a slope of land 
100 feet below the summit of Coomb-Down, and 
400 above the City of Bath ; and is certainly 
one of the most magnificent freestone mansions, 
with respect to its outside, in the kingdom. A 
noble house forms the centre; from the extre- 
mities of which stretch two sweeping arcades, 
connecting with the main body, as many wings 
of offices, terminated by elegant pavilions, and 
forming a continued line of building of nearly 
1300 feet in front. The style is Corinthian, 
raised on a rustic basement, and surmounted by 
a balustrade. From the plane of the centre 
part an extremely-grand portico projects, sup- 
ported by six large and elegant columns. But 
all the majesty of the building is without. 
Within, every thing (if we except the Chapel, 
which is neat and elegant, and adorned with an 
altar-piece, by Van Deest) is little, dark, and 



216 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

inconvenient; and seldom has so much money 
been so injudiciously applied, as the enormous 
sum expended in the comfortless Palace of 
Prior-Park. Fielding laid the scene of the early 
years of Tom Jones at this place, and has, also, 
in his work, given a picture of the beautiful 
situation of Mr. Allen's house, the Allivorthy 
of his novel. Making allowances for the fancy 
of an author, in an imaginary river, sea, distant 
island, and ruined abbey, the description is 
tolerably correct ; at least, many of its most 
agreeable features are real. From the novel, it 
appears, " the house stood on the south-east 
side of a hill, but nearer the bottom than the 
top of it, so as to be sheltered from the north- 
east by a grove of old oaks, which rose above 
it, in a gradual ascent of nearly half a mile, and 
yet high enough to enjoy a most charming pro- 
spect of the valley beneath. In the midst of 
the grove was a vine -lawn, sloping towards 
the house, near the summit of which rose a 
plentiful spring, gushing out of a rock, covered 
with firs, and forming a constant cascade of 
about thirty feet, not carried down a regular 
flight of steps, but tumbling in a natural fall 
over the broken and mossy stones, till it came 
to the bottom of the rock ; then running off in 
a pebbly channel, that with many lesser falls 
winding along, till it fell into a lake at the foot 
of a hill, about a quarter of a mile below the 
house, on the south side, and which was seen 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 217 

from every room in the front. Out of this lake, 
which filled the centre of a beautiful plain, em- 
bellished with groupes of beeches and elms, and 
fed with sheep, issued a river, that for several 
miles was seen to meander through an amazing 
variety of meadows and woods, till it emptied 
itself into the sea, with a large arm of which, 
and an island beyond it, the prospect closed. 
On the right of this valley opened another of 
less extent, adorned with several villages, and 
terminated by one of the towers of an old ruined 
abbey, grown over with ivy, and part of the 
front which still remained entire. The left 
scene presented the view of a fine park, com- 
posed of very unequal ground, and agreeably 
varied with all the diversity that hills, lawn, 
wood, and water, laid out with admirable taste, 
but owing less to art than to nature, could 
give. Beyond this the country gradually rose 
into a ridge of wild mountains, the tops of 
which were above the clouds/' He has omitted, 
however, the splendid Palladian bridge at the 
bottom of the pleasure-grounds : and the stri- 
king view of Bath caught beyond this structure, 
which before the additions to the city, made 
within these last forty years, must have formed 
a very interesting feature in the prospect. The 
character which Fielding has given us of his 
patron is of so exalted a nature, that we should 
be tempted to believe the anticipation of the 
rich remuneration he received for his eulogium, 

u 



218 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

£500, had made him paint " beyond the reach of 
nature," did not general report, and local tra- 
dition, confirm the account of the novelist to 
its fullest extent;* and united in assuring us, that 
Mr. Allen was one of the best as well as the 
most fortunate of men. 

* It may, perhaps, be not unworthy of observation, that it 
is rather singular no designation of person has been pointed out 
amongst the biographers of Fielding and Allen ; or, in 
the numerous " Guides' 1 published in Bath, whereby any clue 
might be obtained towards satisfactorily ascertaining the real 
character of 'Squire Western. The AUworthy, ofJoMJoNES, 
is admitted, on all hands, to have been the late benevolent 
Ralph Allen, Esq. It is true, that in respect of ami- 
ability of disposition, no comparison exists between those 
two personages; but, nevertheless, 'Squire Western is drawn 
with so much strength — it abounds with so many real 
touches of nature — the huntsman (or prevailing passion) 
preponderates throughout every movement of his life, and 
yet the fine traits of the parent are preserved with so much 
fidelity, that it is scarcely possible to suppose an entire 
imaginary portrait could have proved so complete in all its 
bearings — neither distorted upon the one side, so as to out- 
rage probability, or proving tamely deficient on the other, 
as to evince a false conception, without some original 
being near at hand, of whom a perfect likeness might at 
length be procured from the advantages of various sittings. 
It is, however, urged, that 'Squire Western (that is to say, 
a gentleman huntsman, and much addicted to the sports of 
the field) was, in reality, a near neighbour of Mr. Allen, 
who had a daughter " passing fair ;" and that this young 
lady did marry a u foundling," who became possessed, by 
such marriage, of two joining estates. The authority, per- 
haps, at this period, may be considered as rather question- 
able. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 219 

Let low-born* Allen, with ingenuous shame, 
Do good by stealth, and blush to find it fame. 

Born in 1692, of humble parents, Allen inherit- 
ed little from his ancestors, except a decent 
country-village education; but nature had given 
him a clear head and an excellent heart. With 
these endowments he came to Bath early in the 
18th century, and was appointed a clerk in the 
Post-Office there. The diligence and fidelity 
which he manifested in his employment were 
rewarded in 1715, when having obtained infor- 
mation of a waggon-load of arms, coming from 
the West of England, to be secretly dispersed 
among those who favoured the cause of the Pre- 
tender in the neighbourhood of Bath, he com- 
municated the intelligence to General Wade, 
quartered at that time in the city. The Com- 
mander, pleased with the vigilance and loyalty 
of the young man, immediately honoured him 
with his favour, and determined to be the 
guardian of his fortunes. He accordingly pro- 
cured his succession to the office of Postmaster, 
and shortly afterwards married him to his na- 
tural daughter, a Miss Earl. Thus established, 
Allen soon rose into affluence. Having submit- 
ted an ingenious plan to Government for the 
multiplication of the Cross-Posts, by which the 

* Mr. Allen, it appears, was displeased at the epithet of 
low-born, in Pope, and occasioned it, by the suggestion of 
Warburton, to be softened to humble. 



220 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

revenue would gain £6000 per annum, it was 
adopted, and a lease, at that rent, of the Cross- 
Posts, granted to the inventor for twenty-one 
years. The profits of his tenure may be ima- 
gined from his taking another lease for twenty- 
one years, at the expiration of the former one, 
at the annual rent of £20,000. It was during 
this latter period that he built the stately man- 
sion of Prior-Park, and opened those vast quar- 
ries on Coomb-Down, which are to this day 
objects of curiosity ; bringing down the stone 
from the place where it was cut, to the river, by 
"the means of a rail-road, or inclined plane, 
which he ingeniously contrived for the purpose. 
But though thus actively occupied, he did not 
omit to cultivate, with unremitting attention, 
his interests at Bath ; and at length acquired 
such a complete controul of the city, as to give 
occasion to the publication of a ludicrous cari- 
cature, called the One -Headed Corporation; 
wherein, amid an assembly of figures, (intended 
for the mayor, aldermen, and common council- 
men, and marked by the appropriate emblems 
of apothecaries, booksellers, &c.) a single rnon* 
strous head is discovered, to which all the 
others are doing obeisance. As Mr. Allen's 
object, however, was to use the corporation, and 
not to serve them, he carefully and wisely avoid- 
ed becoming their representative, and contented 
himself with pointing out to them whom they 
should choose for that purpose. This reign of 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 221 

influence continued many years ; during which 
time Prior-Park was the resort of the wits and 
literati of the age. Amidst this constellation of 
geniuses, Pope shone the distinguished star ; 
who had become intimate with Allen from the 
personal advances of the latter, in consequence 
t)f an esteem he had conceived for him on 
reading the surreptitious edition of his letters in 
1734. But the friendship of a wit is not to be 
depended upon. Pope, who visited much at 
Prior-Park, and found the house so comforta- 
ble as to be desirous of being there more, re- 
quested Mr. Allen to grant him the mansion at 
Bath -Hampton, in order that he might bring 
Martha Blount thither (with whom Pope's con- 
nexion was somewhat equivocal) during the time 
of his own residence at Prior-Park. This re- 
quest, Allen (whose delicacy was extreme) flatly 
refused ; which so exasperated the little wasp, 
that he quitted his house in disgust, and never 
afterwards expressed himself in terms of com- 
mon civility with respect to his old host and 
former friend.* Nay, urged by the malice of 

* This relation, which is given partly on the authority of 
the historical account of Bath, is not correct. Pope kept 
up his friendship with Mr. Allen to the last, as appears by 
Ins letters, and Mrs. Blount remained in Mr. Allen's house 
some time after the coolness took place between her and 
Mrs. Allen. Allen's conversation with Pope on this subject, 
and his letters to Mrs. Blount, all whose quarrels he was 
obliged to share, appear in Mr. Bowles's edition of Pope's 

v2 



222 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

Mrs. Blount, he meanly and wickedly carried 
his resentment beyond the grave, and inserted in 
his will an order to his executors to pay Mr. 
Allen the sum of £150, being the amount (as 
he apprehended) of the charges Mr. Allen 
might have been at in entertaining him at Prior- 
Park ; adding, that if Mr. Allen would not re- 
ceive the money, he hoped he would at least 
order it to be paid into the fund of the Bath 
Hospital. Allen was too wise and too good a 
man to feel resentment at this contemptible 
instance of impotent revenge ; and when com- 
plying with the latter part of the deceased poet's 
wish, and ordering the money to be applied to 
the charity, he with a smile observed, that 
" when Mr. Pope was expressing the sum of 
obligation, he certainly had forgotten to add 
one more cipher to it." Previously, however, 
to Pope's disgust at Allen, he had introduced 
Warburton to him, and by that means laid the 
foundation of that prelate's future fortune.* 

Works. — See a note (c), Vol. XII. p. 96, of Chalmers's 
edition of the British Notes. In also making an extract 
from the work alluded to, it becomes necessary to give the 
authority from whence the contradiction to the above cir- 
cumstance is taken. — See Beauties of England and Wales. 
Somersetshire, Vol. XIII. Part I. p. 441. 

* It is curious to remark on what trifling accidents the 
destinies of men frequently depend. This was strikingly ex- 
emplified in the fortunes of Warburton. Pope, being one 
day at dinner with Mr. Allen, had a letter put into his hand 
by one of the footmen. The poet, on reading it, shook his 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 223 

This, indeed, was but a fair return for the 
assistance which the divine had conferred upon 
the poet; for when Oowstfz attacked the "Essay 
on Man," and accused its writer of favouring 
fatalism and rejecting revelation, Warburton 
voluntarily became the champion of the work ; 
and in the Monthly Review of that time, called 
" the Republic of Letters/' published a series 
of essays in vindication of it ; which were after- 
wards melted into an exposition, and given to 
the world in the Bishop of Gloucester's edition of 
Pope's Works. This service Pope never forgot; 
and repaid it first by recommending Warburton 
to Mr. Murray, by whose interest he became 
preacher at Lincoln's Inn; and afterwards (as 
has been before observed) to Mr. Allen, who gave 
him his sprightly niece in marriage, procured 
him a mitre, and at length left him an entailed 
estate in Prior-Park. But Warburton, it should 
seem, was not more indebted for his success 
with Mr. Allen to Pope's recommendation than 
to his own knowledge of the human character. 

head. " What occasions your perplexity?" said Allen. 
* A Lincolnshire clergyman,' said he, f to whom I am much 
obliged, writes me word that he will be with me in a few 
days, at Twickenham.' " If that be all, Mr. Pope, request 
him to come to us ; my carriage shall meet him at Chippen- 
ham, and bring him hither." Pope complied with the kind 
request ; and the Lincolnshire clergyman, in consequence 
of his visit to Prior-Park, became Bishop of Gloucester, 
the husband of Allen's niece, and an inheritor of a large 
part of his property '.-—Warner. 



224 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

Delicate flattery he knew would be gratifying 
even to the best regulated mind ; and therefore 
duly poured into the ear of his friend a just and 
regular proportion of it. Sometimes, indeed, 
he went a little beyond the mark in adulation ; 
but it was erring on the right side ; a venial 
fault, and easily forgiven. " Doctor," said Mr. 
Allen to him one day, when conversing on the 
subject of the Divine Legation, " your adver- 
saries appear to me to advance only weak and 
futile arguments against you/' ' Sir/ replied 
Warburton, c you have spoken more to the pur- 
pose in those few words than all the rascals, in 
all their volumes, have written/ After Mr. 
Allen's death, Warburton took possession of 
Prior-Park, in right of his wife ; and there 
produced some of those profound literary 
labours, which will be an ornament to the 
English language and nation as long as they 
exist.* " He was a man of vigorous faculties; 
a mind fervid and vehement, supplied, by in- 
cessant and unlimited inquiry, with wonderful 

* The Bishop's literary labours confined him a great deal at 
Prior-Park. After a long absence from London, he appear- 
ed at Court, when the King, for the sake of saying some- 
thing, observed to him, that he supposed he had just left his 
diocese. Warburton, considering the speech as a tacit re- 
buke, replied, with point and spirit, " No, please your 
Majesty, T am come from Prior-Park, near my diocese, but 
not in it ; where I have been combating the enemies of that 
faith, of which your Majesty is the avowed and zealous 
Defender." — Warner. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 225 

extent and variety of knowledge, which yet had 
not oppressed his imagination, nor clouded his 
perspicacity. To every work he brought a me- 
mory full fraught, together with a fancy fertile 
of original combinations, and at once exerted 
the powers of the scholar, the reasoner, asd the 
wit. But his knowledge was too multifarious to 
be always exact, and his pursuits too eager to be 
always cautious. His abilities gave him a 
haughty confidence, which he disdained to con- 
ceal or mollify; and his impatieuce of opposi- 
tion disposed him to treat his adversaries 
with such contemptuous superiority, as made 
his readers commonlv his enemies, and excited 
against the advocate the wishes of some who fa- 
voured the cause. He seems to have adopted 
the Roman Emperor's determination, oderint 
dum metuant; he used no allurements of gentle 
language, but wished to compel rather than per- 
suade. His style is copious without selection, 
and forcible without neatness ; he took the 
words that presented themselves; his diction is 
coarse and impure, and his sentences are un- 
measured." * 

The back part of Prior-Park-House is 
also extremely elegant, and ornamented with six 
very lofty pillars of the Doric order ; it is sin- 
gular to remark, that the roof is made of 
stone, and also several of the window-sashes. 
The prospect from every part of this elegant 

* Dr. Johnson. 



226 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

residence captivates the beholder. On quitting 
the house a lodge is soon passed, contiguous to 
which are two roads, the left leading to Trow- 
bridge, and the right to Bristol. Proceeding 
forwards, the traveller arrives at a spot of 
ground, upon which some remnants of rows of 
fir-trees still remain, originally intended, it ap- 
pears, as a shade for persons in their carriages. 
In the time of the worthy Allen, this place was 
a complete grove, and extended for a long dis- 
tance ; but since those generous days, and from 
its change of masters, profit and the cutting- 
down system have prevailed over any thing like 
public accommodation. In fact, Prior-Park- 
House, with all its present contiguous beauties, 
is but a mere skeleton, compared to what it 
originally was. At Isabella-Place, which is but 
a short distance from this rural spot, one of the 
finest views for extensive scenery that can pos- 
sibly be imagined bursts upon the already de- 
lighted traveller: the immense chain of high 
hills, as far as the eye can stretch, have a grand 
and majestic appearance. On the left is Salis- 
bury-Plain ; next appears Warminster, and the 
White Horse cut out of the turf at Westburv 
under the plain, in Wiltshire, is seen without 
any difficulty. In the centre stands the unri- 
valled seat of the Marquis of Bath, called Long- 
leat, the fine park and woody appearance of 
which tends to increase the beauty of the sur- 
rounding prospect ; and the perspective view of 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 227 

Alfred's tower, erected on the abrupt termination 
of a very lofty hill, belonging to Sir Richard 
Colt, Bart, gives an interesting finish to this 
charming expanse of country. When the fasci- 
nated spectator can remove from this brilliant 
panoramic spectacle, he will pass Prospect- 
Place, a very neat row of houses, and which 
very properly merits its title. By field- Buildings 
is also as pleasantly situated, and a few paces 
forwards the visitor, if inclination permit him, 
may descend into the stone-quarries at Combe- 
Down, opened and worked by Mr. Allen. This 
sudden contrast is extremely pleasing: the vast 
depth of freestone which has been excavated 
from the earth ; the lofty arches, or pillars, re- 
maining in a craggy stale, left by the excavators 
to iet in light to the subterraneous passages and 
caverns which extend for a considerable way 
under the earth, most interestingly claim the at- 
tention of the explorer. The appearance al- 
together has an effect difficult to convey to the 
reader any thing like an adequate representation : 
several men are employed in breaking-up the 
freestone into different sizes, and which, it 
seems, yields with much placency to the tools used 
upon it ; and carriages and horses are also seen 
among the openings, loading for the buildings of 
Bath.* From its yellow appearance, it has a 

* The Great Oolite is about 130 feet thick. This curious 
and valuable stone is composed of exceedingly small globular 
shells, either simply aggregated, or not very firmly cemented 



228 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

very clean and pleasing look. On regaining the 
daylight by a short circuit into the road, to- 
wards returning to Bath, a small enclosed spot 
is passed, which is used as a burying-ground 
for the Jews. Several shafts are seen in the 
fields, raised about three feet from the ground, 
to let light into different parts of the quarry, 
to give facility to the excavators in proceeding 
with their work. The prospect continues en- 
chanting at every step, and in a small quarry, 

together, The ease with which it is cut occasions its appel- 
lation of freestone; and this quality, with its beautiful soft 
colour, renders it in great request for building. It is depo- 
sited in thick beds, and separated into vast blocks by vertical 
fissures; the sides of which are frequently embossed by the 
most delicate stalactites, and beautiful spars of diversified 
crystallization. The blocks are sawn, and worked at the 
quarries into masses, called Ashler, of any required dimen- 
sions, and sold by the foot. The durability of the material 
having been sufficiently proved by the experience of ages, 
the demand for it is rapidly increasing: and as the utmost 
facility is now likely to be given for its exportation to all 
quarters by canal conveyance, it is probable, that in a cen- 
tury more the greater part of our surrounding hills will be 
converted into one wide quarry. The Bath oolite is now 
in use for the sumptuous improvements of Henry Vllth's 
Chapel at the east end of Westminster-Abbey. This stone 
effervesces very rapidly with muriatic acid ; affording a faint 
odour like spermaceti, and scarcely leaving any residuum ; 
upon the addition of prussiate of potash, a bluish white 
precipitate is thrown down. Its fossils are the nautilus ; 
pinna marina and ostrea, both very large ; and the pecten. 
It is applied to building, and every description of free- 
m asonry . — W arner. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 229 

in repassing the grounds of Prior-Park, some 
of the pieces of the stone measure 12| feet long, 
by 3 feet 10 wide; on the left of which, at no 
great distance from the road, is a curious trian- 
gular building of freestone, in the Gothic style, 
erected by the late Mr. Allen, and used in his 
time as a look out, which commands a fine view 
of the City and the adjacent country, and well 
worthy of inspection. It has the following in- 
scription: — 

Memoriae optitui viri, Radulphi Allen, positum, 
Qui virtutem veraru simplicemquecolis, venerare hoc saxura. 

Claverton-Down, which is 400 feet above the 
City of Bath, and so distinguished for its beau- 
tiful extensive level velvet turf, is soon gained. 
The views towards the north, south, and west, 
are peculiarly interesting. The Bath Races were 
formerly held here ; and it is a most delightful 
situation. The shell of an antique castle, which 
appears to face every part of the City, and which 
is a conspicuous feature for some miles, was 
erected on this Down also by Mr. Allen. Near 
to this spot, about thirty years ago, a duel was 
fought by two Frenchmen of rank, who quar- 
relled during the season at Bath, when one of 
them was killed. This circumstance occasioned 
considerable noise at the time. Continuing the 
walk across the Downs, a turnpike appears with 
three different roads connected with it. The 
left leads to Trowbridge ; the right to Wells ; 
and the direct line to Bradford. The high 

x 



230 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

elm-trees, and the ivy growing over the stone 
walls on each side of the road, which continues 
for some distance, pleases the eye more than 
can be described. On the left of which is the 
sign of the Crown-Inn, but more generally 
known to the inhabitants of Bath as the " Brass- 
Knocker ;" which, rather singular to observe, 
derives its designation from having the above 
appendage attached to the inn-door. Nearly 
opposite to which is Coombe-Grove, the mansion 
of the late William Vaughan, Esq. The " Brass- 
Knocker" is not only important from affording 
refreshment during this long walk to the travel- 
ler, but it also operates as a guide to him, in 
leading to a curiosity, which is highly deserving 
of notice, namely, THE AQUEDUCT, which 
unites the Kennet and Avon Canal with the 
Grand Junction. Here are two small stone 
bridges across the Somerset Coal Canal, which, 
it appears, has been reduced in size, on purpose 
to admit only the long narrow coal-barges from 
Tymsbury and Comerton. The view of the 
Aqueduct is noble and interesting; and con- 
nected with the other bridges, the river, and 
canals, gives an attractive effect to this part of 
the country. It has three arches ; the middle 
one is wide and lofty, 40 feet at least from the 
water which it stands over. The dimensions of 
the other two are much less. It is built of free- 
stone, and is viewed as a fine piece of Grecian 
architecture. The traveller is now five miles 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 231 

from Bath, but the walk between the Canal and 
the Avon is so delightfully intersected with 
pleasing objects, occupying the mind so com- 
pletely, that any thoughts about distance is 
quite forgotten. Some cottages on a high hill, 
at a place called Konkwell, produce a very 
pleasing effect. Upon an eminence, at a small 
distance, stands the Village of Claverton. This 
little hamlet is important to the visitor in several 
points of view : Claverton-House is a prominent 
feature to notice, from its fine specimen of archi- 
tecture adopted in the reign of James I. It has 
an ascent of thirty steps, and is contiguous to 
the Church. The latter place is a small Go- 
thic building, but conspicuous principally from 
being the rectory of the late Mr. Graves, the 
author of the Spiritual Quixote, and several other 
publications of great merit. The above Rev. 
gentleman held this rectory for the long period 
of 60 years, and died in 1807, at the advanced 
age of 90 years. He was a man of great bene- 
volence; and through a very long life pre- 
served a spotless character. 

Can storied urn, or animated bust, 

Back to its mansions call the fleeting breath ? 

Can honour's voice provoke the silent dust, 
Or flatt'ry soothe the dull cold ear of death ? 

The Churchyard is also worthy of a visit, 
to view the family-vault, which contains the re- 
mains of a man so justly dear to the people of 
Bath. It is built of freestone, in the form of a 



232 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

handsome square, with a mausoleum over it* 
It has also three semicircular arches in each of 
the sides, and a pyramidal roof. Upon a free- 
stone table, monument, within the structure, is 
the following inscription ; 

On the north : — «• Beneath this monument lieth entombed 
the body of RALPH ALLEN, Esq. of Prior-Park, who 
departed this life the 29th of June, 1764, in the 71st year 
of his age ; in full hopes of everlasting happiness in another 
state, through the infinite mercy and mediation of our blessed 
Redeemer Jesus Christ. And of ELIZABETH HOLDER, 
his second wife, who died September 20th, 1766, aged 68." 

At the Eastern end : — " Near this place lie the remains of 
RALPH ALLEN WARBURTON, the only son of Wil- 
liam Warburton, Lord Bishop of Gloucester, and Gertrude 
his wife, who died July 28th, 1775, aged 19 years. He was 
a youth eminently distinguished for goodness of heart, ele- 
gance of manners, and gracefulness of person. How tran- 
sient are human endowments ! How vain are human hopes! 
Reader, prepare for eternity !" 

On the South side : — u In this vault are deposited the re- 
mains of GERTRUDE, wife of the Rev. M. Stafford Smith, 
of Prior-Park, relict of William Warburton, Lord Bishop of 
Gloucester, and niece to the late Ralph Allen, Esq. She 
died September 1st, 1796, aged 66 years. She was a firm 
and devout Christian ; with a fine natural and highly-cul- 
tivated understanding; and a frank, generous, good heart." 

About half a mile on the right of the canal is 
the very elegant mansion of Mr. Skryne, built 
in the Gothic style. The clean, light appear- 
ance of the freestone forms an excellent con- 
trast to the fine trees contiguous to the house ; 
and several sheepfolds also add to the pictu- 
resque scenery with which this situation abounds. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 233 

On the banks of the river there is a large iron- 
pipe, which conveys the water from the Avon 
into the Canal, from the force of a machine when 
deemed necessary. Proceeding some distance 
down the river, on the left side of which an 
iron rail-way, from an immense steep height, is 
to be seen. It is curious to observe the iron 
carriages sent up and down without horses ; and 
by the aid of machinery the vehicles change their 
positions midway, the full one running down to 
the barge in the canal, and the empty one mak- 
ing its way to the top again to receive its load. 
Bath-Hampton Church soon appears after 
quitting the rail-way ; the tower of which is 
covered all over with ivy. It reminds the spec- 
tator of " Gray's Elegy." The Churchyard has 
to boast of some excellent monuments, and is also 
very full ; among which is the tombstone, near to 
the road on the right, belonging to the French 
gentleman alluded to in page 229, containing 
the following unvarnished inscription : — 
Here rests the remains of 
John Baptiste Viscount Du Barry, 
Obiit 18 Nov. 1778. 

The Village of Bath-Hampton, small, but 
neat, appears in sight. Proceeding forwards, 
" Bailbrook * Lodge" is perceived, delight- 
fully situated upon a very lofty and command- 
ing eminence ; it is a most extensive and elegant 
mansion. The above institution is rather of a 

x 2 



234 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

nouvelle description in this country, resembling 
the German Chapitres. It was established un- 
der the auspices of Lady King, about three years 
since, principally for decayed females, and also 
offering a desirable residence to ladies of very 
limited incomes ; but it is maintained by the 
joint-contributions of the ladies residing at 
Bailbrook-Lodge, without deriving any an- 
nual support from public endowment. It has a 
Lady President, merely to promote harmony and 
good-order; as the inmates are all upon an 
equality. There is no limitation to age. The 
widows and daughters of clergymen, and of the 
officers of the Army and Navy, have an ac- 
knowledged preference over all other candidates ; 
but none are admitted who cannot comply with 
the forms of a retired life, or who do not cheer- 
fully assist in promoting benevolence and cha- 
rity. It has to boast of the high patronage of 
several Duchesses, Marchionesses, Countesses, 
&c. by which means embarrassment is pre- 
vented : her late Majesty was one of its greatest 
patrons, and during her residence at Bath vi- 
sited Bailbrook-Lodge. It seems the Queen 
highly praised the mode with which this institu- 
tion was conducted ; and, united with the Prin- 
cesses, contributed largely towards the fund, 
which is now placed at interest in the names of 
the following Trustees : — The Earl of Shaftes- 
bury, Earl Manvers, the Hon. Geo. Vernon, and 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 235 

Sir B. Hobhouse, Bart. — It has also the patro- 
nage of the Lord Bishops of Durham, St. 
David's, and Meath ; and the Earl of Sheffield. 
On making towards home, part of Bath soon 
appears in sight from the houses on Bacon-Hill. 
New objects attract almost at every step the 
traveller proceeds. Along the banks of the Canal 
a new range of small neat residences are nearly 
finished ; near to which are the swimming baths. 
In turning to the right of the Canal, Sidney- 
Place is soon gained, when the traveller will 
no doubt feel rather fatigued from this long, but 
truly interesting walk, upon his safe return to 
Great Pulteney Street . 



236 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 



WALK X. 



From tlie Circus through Bennet-Street, Russel-Street, 
Belmont and Oxford Row, Montpelier - Row. 
(Christ Church,) Belvidere-Place, Lansdown- 
Street, Lansdown- Grove, Spencer 7 s Belle Vue, 
Springfield-Place, Richmond- House, Grove-Place, 
Lansdown - Square, America - Buildings. To the 
Race - Ground and Grand Stand. Lansdown 
Fair. Monument on Lansdown-Hill. Prospect- 
Style. The Rocks at Wick. Return to Bath. 



Upon quitting that fine architectural pile of 
buildings, the Circus, the visitor soon passes 
through Bennet-Street, leaving the New As- 
sembly Rooms on his right. Russel-Street is 
also passed on the left. Directly opposite Ben- 
net-Street stand those elegant range of houses, 
designated by the name of Belmont and Oxford 
Row ; and, at the extremity of the latter place, 
on the left, is Montpelier- Row, in which is 
situated Christ Church, built after the modern 
Gothic style, upon a piece of land presented by 
the Right Hon. Lord Rivers. It is a very neat 
building, and was erected by subscription ; for 
the very praiseworthy purpose of providing a 
place where the poor might hear the word of 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 237 

God preached unto them ; and in order to ren- 
tier this desirable circumstance effectual, the 
area is left unenclosed and open to all fre- 
quenters. The galleries only are let out ; the 
produce of which are applied to the support of 
the establishment. Proceeding forwards to Bel- 
videre-Place, every step becomes interesting 
to the spectator as he passes through Lans- 
down-Street, Lansdown-Grove, Spencer's Belle 
Vue, Springfield - Place, Richmond - House, 
Grove-Place, fyc. At some little distance on 
the left is seen Lansdown- Square ; and upon 
the right is America - Buildings and Hooper- 
Street. In ascending the hill, if the spectator 
turns round, a most delightful view of Bathford, 
Lambridge, &c. presents itself. A little beyond 
the first mile-stone, on the right, stands a small 
public-house, known by the sign of the Hare 
and Hounds ; and about a mile from this place 
the road becomes level ground, walled in on 
both sides with stones piled on each other, but 
not fastened together by any mortar. The 
prospect is now extensive, and a fine range of 
hills appear on the left. The Race-Ground is 
soon discovered from a very mean and con- 
temptible erection, denominated the " Grand 
Stand ;" which is nothing more than an empty 
shed, thatched over, and the ascent to which is 
by a temporary staircase. Such a receptacle for 
accommodating the beauty and fashion of So- 
merset, does but ill accord with the princely 



238 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

mansions in the City of Bath. The races have 
been revived within the last five years, and are 
generally held upon the 8th and 9th of July 
but they are not in much estimation in the sport- 
ing world. A board here also informs those 
whom it may concern, " that prosecutions will 
be instituted against those persons found bad- 
ger-baiting, pricking in the garter, or practising 
any other nefarious games." Persons are also 
cautioned against the danger of mounting the 
walls, as several people have been dreadfully 
bruised, and others lost their lives from the 
stones giving way. At no great distance from 
the Race-Ground stands the Blathwayte Arms, 
close to which the Fair at Lansdown is held an- 
nually on the 10th of August. It is a very large 
fair, and distinguished for the sale of horses, 
and large quantities of cheese: great numbers 
of cattle and pigs are also brought here. It 
is a most convenient spot for the numerous as- 
semblage of persons that arrive from Bristol, 
Gloucestershire, Wiltshire, &c. and it proves 
quite a jubilee-day for the country people to 
enjoy the fun with which it abounds. The 
gingerbread - stalls form a long street ; and 
numerous shows from different parts of England, 
of every description, to obtain the money from 
the pockets of the lads and lasses, are not want- 
ing. Lansdown Fair is also notorious for a 
number of pitched battles which are fought by 
the pugilistic heroes of Bristol. On the Downs, 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 239 

at the third mile-stone, there is a fine view of a 
valley and hills on the right ; and in front of the 
traveller, the Lansdown Pillar now ap- 
pears conspicuous. The walk for the next half- 
mile is as fertile in scenery as the most lively 
imagination can suggest ; and this part of So- 
mersetshire has been often compared to some 
of the picturesque and enchanting prospects in 
Switzerland. These Downs have often been the 
theme of celebrated painters ; and among whom, 
it is said, not the least animated in their praise, 
is the venerable President of the Royal Acade- 
my. The Bath cream-cheese, an article of such 
high epicurean taste, is produced by the dairies 
furnished from these luxuriant pastures. The 
traveller at length arrives at the Pillar, which 
stands at a short distance from the main road. 
It is built of freestone ; but, as a piece of ar- 
chitecture, it has nothing at the present period 
about it to command any particular interest ; 
and the efforts of time have also committed some 
ravages upon its beauty. This spot, it appears, 
was rendered famous in history, from a battle 
fought here in 1643, between the King's and 
the parliamentary forces, on the 5th of July. 
The royal side was commanded by the Marquis 
of Hertford, but the King's horse was so sha- 
ken, that out of 2000 which came into action, not 
above 600 survived the havoc of the battle ; but 
the Parliamentary General, Sir William Waller, 



240 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

was ultimately compelled to quit his post, and 
to take refuge in Bath, from the spirited con- 
duct of the Marquis. The above monument 
was erected by George Lord Lansdown in 
1720, to commemorate his ancestor Sir Bevil 
Granville, who fell in this desperate engage- 
ment. The east and west sides of the monu- 
ment are sculptred with warlike trophies, the 
Royal arms, and those of the Granvilles. The 
crest of the Granvilles surmounts the whole. 
On the shaft of the columns is the following in- 
scription ; and the subjoined account of the en- 
gagement, from Clarendon's History of the 
Rebellion, is engraven on the south side of the 
pedestal : — 

To the immortal memory of his renowned Grandfather 
and valiant Cornish Friends, who conquered, dying in 
the Royal Cause, July 5th, 1643, this Column was de- 
dicated by the Hon. George Granville, Lord 
Lansdown, 1780. — Duice estpropatrid mori, 
fi In this battle, on the King's part, were more officers and 
gentlemen of quality slain than private men ; but that which 
would have clouded any victory, and made the loss of others 
less spoken of, was the death of Sir Bevil Granville. 
He was indeed an excellent person, whose activity, interest, 
and reputation, were the foundation of what had been done 
in Cornwall ; and his temper and affection so public, that no 
accident which happened could make any impression on him, 
and his example kept others from taking any thing ill, or at least 
seeming to do so : in a word, a brighter courage and a gentler 
disposition were never married together, to make the most 
cheerful and innocent conversation."— Clarendon. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 241 

On the north are the following lines written 
in the year 1G43, by William Cartwright: — 

" When now the incens'd rebels proudly came 
Down like a torrent, without bark or dam ; 
When undeserv'd success urg'd on their force, 
That thunder must come down to stop their course, 
Or Granville must step in ; then Granville stood, 
And with himself oppos'd and check'd the flood; 
Conquest or death was all his thoughts, so fire 
Either o'ercomes, or does itself expire. 
His courage work'd like flames, cast heat about, 
Here, there, on this, on that side, none gave out. 
Not anv Dike in that renowned stand, 
But took new force from his inspiring hand, 
Soldier encourag'd soldier, man urg'd man, 
And he urg'd all ; so far example can. 
Hurt upon hurt, wound upon wound did fall, 
He was the butt, the mark, the aim of all. 
His soul this while retired from cell to cell, 
At last flew up from all, and then he fell ; 
But the devoted stand, enrag'd the more 
From that his fate, plied hotter than before. 
And, proud to fall with him, swore not to yield, 
Each sought an honour'd grave, and gain'd the field. 
Thus, being fall'n, his actions fought anew, 
And the dead conquer'd whilst the living flew." 

William Cartwright. 

On the same side are the following lines by 
Martin Llewellen. 

u Thus slain, thy valiant ancestor did lie, 
When his own bark a navy did defy. 
When now encompass'd round, the victor stood, 
And bath'd his pinnace in his conqu'ring blood, 
Till all his purple current, dried and spent, 
He fell and made the waves his monument, 

Y 



242 WALKS THROUGH RATH. 

Where shall the next fam'd Granville's ashes stand? 
Thy grandsire* fills the seas, and thou the land." 

Martin Llewellen. 

At this spot the spectator is well repaid for 
his curiosity. He is lost, as it were, with the 
vast expanse before him ; and however strong and 
elegant language may be applied towards com- 
municating its brilliant and sublime effect, 
description is totally inadequate to convey any 
thing like the reality of the scene. Through a 
field or two on the left, which is easily ascer- 
tained, the traveller will gain what is denomi- 
nated " Prospect Style ;" so termed from 
the completeness of the view which it affords. 
The Avon in all its windings, with the cities of 
Bristol and Bath, are immediately recognised ; 
the junction of the Severn with the Avon is also 
distinctly traced ; and the fine Monmouthshire 
hills increase the effect. The scenerv ail around 
is bold as well as picturesque ; and although at 
the distance of forty miles from Lansdown, the 
Bloreuch and Sugar Loaf mountains are accu- 
rately distinguished. The perspective is en- 
chanting, and the local view likewise is inte- 
resting. Here and there a gentleman's seat is 
seen in the valley — the little spire of a country 
church — farm-houses and cottages — the fertile 
ground all around — the charming foliage of the 
trees — the extent of hedges dividing the various 
lands, the sheep feeding, &c. furnishing a most 

* Sir Richard Granville. 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 243 

admirable landscape for the exquisite talents of 
a Poussin. The herbage on these Downs is 
considered the most nutritive in the West of 
England for fattening of sheep; and those 
fed upon the adjacent hills hold no comparison 
with tlie numbers which are reared on Lansdown. 

Th' unbusied shepherd, stretch'd beneath the hawthorn, 
His careless limbs thrown out in wanton ease, 
With thoughtless gaze perusing the arch'd heavens, 
And idly whistling while his sheep feed round him, 
Enjoys a sweeter shade than that of canopies 
Heram'd in by cares, and shook by storms of treason. 

If the traveller wishes to extend his excursiou 
to Wick he will be amply repaid for his exer- 
tion. He must now make forwards again to the 
Pillar, and be particular in taking the road 
which leads to the left. The country all around 
him still continues worthy of his attention, and 
he will pass Ashton -Lodge on his right. On 
arriving at Wick, which is a small village, con- 
taining only a few straggling houses, the Crown 
Inn, kept by Mr. Gulley,* affords a nice oppor- 
tunity for refreshment to the visitor, before he 
commences his examination of the rocks. On 
the right, directly opposite to the above Inn, 
you pass through a gate, and, inclining a short 
distance to the left, over a small stone bridge, 
you enter the romantic scenery of Wick, which 
is about three quarters of a mile in length. It 

* Father of the once celebrated pugilist of that name ; 
but who is now a distinguished sportsman on the turf. 



244 WALKS THROUGH BATH. 

appears like a wilderness ; the high trees, the 
beauty of their foliage descending into a sort of 
rivulet, and the rugged appearance of the Glen 
altogether, tend to make a pleasing sensation on 
the mind of the spectator. Here are also some 
iron works situated in this recess, well worthy 
the investigation of the traveller ; but, without 
permission, no admittance to view them is 
granted.' A style, on the left of the above 
works, presents itself, when, after ascending a 
hill, at a little distance, the traveller enters upon 
the rocks with all their majestic appearance ; 
the loftiest parts of which exceed 200 feet in 
height. It is true, they fall very short by com- 
parison to those of St. Vincent, near Clifton ; 
but nevertheless they must be viewed as a great 
natural curiosity. In some places, the Glen is 
extremely craggy, and to persons of a timid dis- 
position may appear rather awkward, if not 
dangerous to get along; but when once they are 
explored to the end, the prospect upon the 
water is delightful, interesting, stupendous, and 
grand, which is seen foaming over rugged masses 
of stone, from a most impetuous current, which 
ultimately falls into the Avon. The above Glen, 
within the last few years, has lost much of its 
romantic interest, from the introduction of se- 
veral manufactories, in consequence of buying 
up the water to serve those purposes; since which, 
in the course of two miles, it now works no less 
than six mills, consisting of a paper, a cotton, an 



WALKS THROUGH BATH. 245 

iron, a rolling, a slitting, and two grist mills. 
Persons visiting either Bath or Bristol ought 
not to omit viewing the rocks at Wick, if they 
possess in the slightest degree any taste for geo- 
logy, painting, or romantic natural scenery, 
which the whole of this spot exhibits in so pro- 
minent a point of view. In fact, Wick is 
but half way from either of the above Cities. 
Returning to Bath the look-out all around the 
traveller upon Lansdown-hill is so extensive, 
diversified, and powerful, that any thing like 
monotony is out of the question; and the com- 
monest or most indifferent spectator in the 
world cannot pass and repass it, without re- 
flecting upon the pleasure he has derived in con- 
templating the beauties of nature and the sub- 
limity of the works of the creation. 



Y 2 



246 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 



WALK (or Ride) XI. 



Visit to CORSHAM-HOUSE ; its fine Collec- 
tion of PAINTINGS, PARK, &c. 

From Grosvenor-Place, on the London-Road, to Bath 
' East on. Through the Villages of Box and Pick- 
wick to Cor sham. 



Dost thou love Pictures ? we will fetch thee straight 

Adonis, painted by a running brook ; 

And Citherea all in sedges hid, 

Which seem to move, and wanton with her breath, 

Ev'n as the waving sedges play with wind. 

« 

The FINE ARTS in England have made such 
rapid strides towards perfection within the last 
fifty-one years, under the immediate patronage 
of his present Majesty, George III. and the 
Annual Exhibitions of the English Artists, at the 
Royal Academy, have tended not only to ex- 
cite the highest praise and admiration from 
among the most critical judges of the talents of 
the pencil, but also to create, generally, a taste 
for Paintings among the various classes of so- 
ciety, that it is fairly to be presumed, however 
attractive and fascinating the numerous amuse- 
ments of Bath may prove to its fashionable 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 247 

visitors, one day, at least, will be set apart, 
even with rapturous anticipation, to view COR- 
SHAM-HOUSE, and its justly celebrated fine 
collection of pictures ; indeed, it would almost 
be pronounced a libel upon any lover of the 
Fine Arts, short as his residence might be at 
Bath, to omit viewing this grand collection of 
the Old Masters, which are to be seen in 
the highest state of preservation, through the 
liberality of their owner, every Tuesday and 
Friday, between the hours of ten and four, and 
that at the distance of only nine miles and three- 
quarters from the above City. 

On quitting Bath and ascending the hill, upon 
the London-Road, the appearance of the coun- 
try all around is delightful. The traveller soon 
arrives at the clean little town of Bath Easton, 
(2 m.) The pretty village of Box (5 m.) 
is the next place, but which can never be 
passed through indifferently by any spectator. 
The road, in continuance to Pickivick, is every 
where interesting ; and the eye is completely 
occupied with a variety of pleasing distant sub- 
jects, such as churches, gentlemen's seats, &c. 
Upon ascending a long and steep hill, (Hasel- 
bury,) and turning to the right to gain the above 
place, the road is level, enclosed on each side 
with stone walls, and the locality of scenery is 
pleasing ; but the view of the immense hills and 
the perspective prospect is truly grand. The 
White Swan, at Pickwiek> (nine miles, if refresh- 



248 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 



raent is thought necessary,) will be found, upon 
its entrance, completely to accord with the 
style of those rustic sketches, so much admired 
and made by the late George Moreland. The 
stone kitchen, large fireside, bacon-rack, copper 
saucepans hanging up, (which from their bright- 
ness might almost serve for looking-glasses,) an an- 
tique clock, the friendly box round the fire, &c. 
The customers corresponding ; being princi- 
pally men employed in agriculture; their ap- 
pearance unfashioned by form and art, and upon 
whose countenances content and happiness ap- 
pear the prominent features. It should seem as 
if the inhabitants of this village did not trouble 
the press much, as a long list of club articles, 
filling five sheets of foolscap, are here nailed up 
against the wall. On passing the Hare and 
Hounds, theLondou-Road turns to the left ; and 
the village of Corsham, in a direct line, is about 
three-quarters of a mile's distance from Pickwick, 
On arriving at the above place, which has a very 
neat clean appearance, Corsham-House is soon 
ascertained. The approach to this venerable 
mansion is through a long wide avenue of thickly 
planted high trees on each side, which gives it 
a prepossessing character. It has an antique 
look, built after the Gothic style, and the 
church upon its right adds considerably to the 
general effect. It has also a fore-court (in 
which are some small buildings for aged poor 
people) and large gates. The village of Cor- 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 249 

sham, with its Park, &c. can be traced from 
the time of William the Conoueror, and ori- 
ginally made part of the dower of the Queens of 
England, which appears from its being settled 
upon the royal Consort of Edward I. to which 
Bath was also attached. Corsham-House has 
changed its proprietors several times ; and in 
1747 it was purchased by the late Paul Me- 
thuen, Esq. in order to display his very fine 
Collection of Paintings,* at one view. — 
Numerous tasteful alterations and improvements 
were made during his lifetime, under the direc- 
tion of Mr. Brown, the architect ; but it was re- 
served for his son, the present possessor, to com- 
plete in the most superb manner so enlarged and 
liberal an undertaking. It is but justice to add, 
that whatever individual gratification such en- 
lightened pursuits might have afforded the late 
Paul Methuen, Esq. when his eye luxuriantly 
dwelt upon this celebrated collection of the 
Old Masters, in his own possession, it is the 
public that ultimately derive the benefit from 
exertions, which have the praiseworthy tendency 
to improve our taste, soften our manners, and 
excite encouragement, generally, towards the 

* The connoisseurs, it seems, have pronounced the above 
collection to be the second in the kingdom, not only in point 
of taste and excellence, but also in value ; and, unlike most 
other collections of this kind, the above pictures have re- 
mained undisturbed in one family upwards of seventy years. 
They are valued at more than of^OOjOOO ; and one painting 
alone cost ,£30,000. 



250 VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 

promotion and extension of the Fine Arts. On 
entering the Hall, which is 110 feet in length, 
25 feet broad, and 25 feet high, the visitor 
feels impressed with its elegance. It has a gal- 
lery all round it ; and two very handsome flights 
of stairs, which front each other, in the middle 
of the left and right ends of the hall. The 
stone floor is white, but chequered with black 
spots. It does not exhibit any of the ancient 
trophies of war, shields^ &c. like the renowned 
Castle of Otranto ; but it has a few small bronzed 
busts, and other little ornaments ; yet it pos- 
sesses a sort of old baronial appearance, and 
maintains some of the character of former times. 
Two small flags are suspended from the gallery, 
remnants of the late county election for Wilt- 
shire, (the proprietor of this mansion being re- 
turned one of the members, in 1818,) upon which 
are painted " Success to the Loom, Methuen 
for ever ;" and " Success to the Plough ;" a 
larger one in the middle of the hall has also 
" Methuen and Independence." Over the 
fronts of the stairs leading to the gallery are 
placed the coat of arms belonging to the family, 
with the following motto, under each of them — 
" Virtus invidua Scopus. Here a footman in 
livery presents the visitor with a book, in which, 
according to etiquette, he signs his name and 
address. The housekeeper, (Mrs. Pardoe,) a 
young, intelligent, interesting female, presents 
herself, and accompanies the various parties 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 251 

through the suite of rooms, explaining in a very 
tasteful, artist-like manner, the various subjects 
of the pictures, and the names and merits of the 
painters. 

The State Dressing-Room is the first 
place which attracts the anxious expectation of 
the visitor. It is a truly magnificent apartment; 
and the pannels being of a dark crimson colour, 
give to the pictures, which are in elegant gilt 
frames, a very imposing and rich effect. The 
following paintings are seen in it: — 

1 A Boy blowing Bubbles An. Caracti. 

2 A Man and Woman Smoaking D. Teniers,fec. 

3 Ditto Drinking Teniers. 

4 A Battle Piece, a Sketch , ;. Borgnogone. 

5 Death of Procris A. Elsheimer. 

6 Cupid straining his Bow, with two other Cupids Parmigiano. 

7 The Corinthian, Eudamidas making his Will N. Poussin. 

8 Portrait of Tomaso Masaniello . S.Rosa. 

9 and 10 Two small Pictures D. Teniers. 

1 1 An emblematical Picture, representing a guar- 

dian Angel conveying an Infant Female to 

Heaven , C.Dolce. 

12 A Barber-Surgeon's Shop D. Teniers. 

13 An Ecce Homo L. Caracci. 

14 A Skirmish between Dutch Boors and a Party 

of Spaniards P. Brueghel. 

15 A Satyr squeezing Grapes, with a Tiger and 

Leopard Rubens. 

A door from the above room opens into the 
State Bed-Chamber. This apartment is 
equally grand with the former; and the state- 
bed of 70 years standing, which is adorned with 
costly crimson satin hangings, claims the atten- 
tion of the spectator. The following large pic- 
tures add to the interest of the state bed- 
chamber: — 



252 VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 

16 The Picture of a Curtain, with a Carpet, 

Fruit, &c Maltese and M. Angelo-Campidoglio. 

17 William, Duke of Guienne, and Count of 

Poictieu 

18 Martyrdom of St. Stephen Domenichino. 

The following pictures have been added to 
the above rooms, taken from up-stairs, but 
not placed or numbered in the regular catalogue: 
intended originally, it seems > not to have been 
shown to the public : — 

Holy Family Don Salto. 

Sacrifice of Gideon Rembrandt, 

Portraits of Lord and Lady Boston Romney. 

The Great- Grandfather and Grandmother of 

Mr. Methuen SirJoshuaReynolds, 

Also Mr. Methuen* s Grandfather and Grand- 
mother Ditto, 

These paintings are in a high state of preservation, and are 
pleasing portraits > Sir Paul is in a masquerade dress. 

Soldier and Landscape Bombuchio. 

Our Saviour in the Garden Malisso. 

The face is peculiaily fine. 

A Head, a fine subject Dobson. 

The whole of these additional pictures are well worthy the attention; 
of the admirers of sound and exquisite painting. 

The Cabinet-Room. This splendid apart- 
ment, from its numerous paintings, the splendor 
of its decorations, and its beautiful look-out, 
fastens rapturously upon the mind of the spec- 
tator. A sofa of crimson velvet, with seams of 
gold-lace ; rich red ottomans, and elegant chairs 
to correspond ; looking-glasses, tripods, large 
China jars, &c. &c. The following is a list of 
the pictures :■---. 

On the Side next to the Bed-Chamber. 

19 Battle Piece Franasco Mola. 

20 Head of Old Bassan Himself. 

SI The Holy Family P. Veronese. 

24 St. Sebastian and other Saints Fillippo Lauri. 

1 



VISIT TO CORSiiAM-HOL'Sb. 203 

SJ Our Saviour, and the Woman taken in Adul- 
tery, John, c. viii. v. 8 Axaretto. 

The face of the woman is a masterpiece of expression. 

Q4 A Head (doubtful) LeodaVinci. 

25 The Flight into Egypt Fillippo Lttttti. 

26 Martyrdom of St. Laurence Titkm. 

27 The Descent from the Cross Rubens. 

Q8 Virgin and Child , Raphael. 

Fain would I Raphael's godlike art rehearse, 

And show th' immortal labours in my verse, 

Where, from the mingled strength of shade and light, 

A new creation rises to my sight ; 

Such heav'nly figures from his pencil glow, 

So warm with life his blended colours glow ; 

From theme to theme with secret pleasure tost, 

Amidst the soft variety I'm lost : 

Here pleasing airs my ravish'd soul confound, 

With circling notes and labyrinths of sound ; 

Here domes and temples rise in distant views, 

And opening palaces invite my Muse. 

The South Side of the Cabinet Room. 

■29 St. Mark and St. John in Consultation on their 

Writings B. Strozzi. 

30 Lot and his Daughters Lerenzi Lotto. 

31 . David and Solomon '. B. Strozzi 

32 Portrait of Hermando Cortez Titian. 

33 The Virgin and Child Carlo Cignani. 

34 Judith preparing to cut off the Head of Holo- 

fernes P-. Veronese. 

35 A Port in the Mediterranean lF.Vanderielde,jun. 

36 A Battle Piece, Fight with the Turks Ditto. 

37 A Landscape representing the Dawn of Morn- 

ing Claude. 

38 The Virgin and Child in the Clouds ,... Murillo. 

39 A Man's Head Corregio. 

40 Judith going out of the City to Holofernes' 

Tent, companion to 32 P. Veronese. 

The Side next to the Gallery. 

41 Our Saviour and Nicodemus Guercino. 

42 The Amphitheatre at Rome, with other Ruins Viviani. 

43 Our Saviour with the Woman of Samaria, com- 

panion to 41 « Guercino. 

44 The Marriage of Jacob Ciro Ferri. 

45 The Virgin, our Saviour, and Saints Ludovico Caracci. 

46 A Garland of Flowers Mario Nupzi. 

47 Virgin and Child, St. John Baptist, St. Joseph, 

and St. Anne Parmigiano. 

The East Side of the Room. 

48 A Head Dobson^ 

z 



254 VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 

49 Our Saviour in the Garden ; Maletso. 

50 The Nativity Pasqualino. 

The grand climacteric is now obtained on 
entering the Picture Gallery. It is like the 
concluding highly finished scene of a pantomime. 
The effect is dazzling. Between the partitions 
of four windows (which command a view of the 
park-scenery and pleasure-grounds) are placed 
four elegant looking-glasses, with rich crimson 
silk curtains. Under the looking-glasses are fine 
marble slabs of variegated colours, supported by 
gilt feet. In various parts of the Gallery are 
eight very beautiful large China jars to enrich the 
scene. Along the middle of the floor, which is 
made of fine oak, and kept bright, is placed a long 
piece of crimson cloth. The sofas, ottomans, and 
chairs, are of the most elegant description ; in 
short, the ornaments are too numerous to notice. 
The ceiling is peculiarly handsome, with good 
cornices. The fire-place, which is in the centre 
of the room, commands great attention on ac- 
count of the support it receives from two female 
figures of white marble of exquisite statuary. 
On the middle of the mantle-piece, surrounded 
by a variety of attractive subjects, stands the 
bust of the Right Honourable Sir Paul Methuen, 
Knight of the Bath, in the reigns of King Wil- 
liam, Queen Anne, George the First, Envoy Ex- 
traordinary and Plenipotentiary and Ambassador 
to the Emperors of Germany and Morocco, the 
Kings of Spain, Portugal, and Sardinia; one of 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 255 

the Lords of the Admiralty; a Lord of the 
Treasury ; Principal Secretary of State ; Comp- 
troller and Treasurer of the Household. Born 
1672, died 1757. It has also a beautiful glass 
chandelier. 

In addition to the elegance of the interior, 
as well as a relief to the eye, the prospect 
of a fine lawn, majestic clustres of trees, and a 
piece of water, render the tout ensemble com- 
plete. When the spectator gets a little over the 
brilliancy of the scene by which he is so daz- 
zingly surrounded, the paintings are also of that 
beautiful, interesting nature, that he scarcely 
knows how to quit them. The following are the 
list of pictures in the Gallery: — 

On the South Side. 

51 An emblematical Picture, representing the 
Virtues and Duties belonging to a good 
Christian Titian. 

Bright, beyond all the rest, Corregio flings 
His ample lights, and round them gently brings 
The mingled shade. In all his works we view, 
Grandeur of style, and chastity of hue. 

Yet higher still great Titian dar'd to soar, 
He reach'd the loftiest heights of colouring power j 
His friendly tints in happiest mixture flow, 
His shades and lights their just gradations know j 
He knew those dear delusions of the art, 
That rous'd, relieve, inspirit every part; 
Hence deem'd divine, the world his merit own'd, 
With riches loaded, and with honours crown'd. 

52 A Turk's Head Rembrandt. 

53 Our Saviour at the Pharisee's House, and 

Mary Magdalene anointing his feet Carlo Dolce. 

54 A large Battle Piece Giordiano. 

55 Ditto Ditto. 

56 David with the Head of Goliath Leon. Spado. 

57 Dead Saviour, with the Virgin and St. John .. An. Caracci. 

58 A Magdalen meditating on a Skull Titian. 

59 Martyrdom of the Innocents (doubtful) Vandyck. 

60 Baptism of Our Saviour Guido. 



256 VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 

61 Flight of the Assyrian Army P. Veronese. , 

62 A Landscape *..... S. Rosa. 

63 Holofernes entertaining Judith at a Feast .... P. Veronese. 

64 A Mathematician Spagnoletto. 

6b Virgin and Child Lanfranc- 

66 Herodias with the Head of St. John Baptist .. L. Giordano. 

67 Rubens and his Family, with Horses, Dogs, 

Foxes, Wolves, &c Rubens and Snyder s. 

This is a large, interesting picture ; and the wife of Rubens 
appears handsome in the extreme. 

68 A Physical Consultation Spagnoletto. 

69 The Marriage of St. Catharine Guercino. 

7(1 The Marriage of Cana in Galilee L. Giordano. 

71 Our Saviour betrayed by Judas Vandyck. 

72 Judith reproves the Governors of the City .... P. Veronese. 

73 Landscape S. Rosa. 

74 Judith presented to Holofernes P. Veronese. 

75 The Angel conducting Tobias to Media M. Angeio. 

76 Venus in her Chemise, dressing, and Cupid 

holding her Looking-glass P. Veronese. 

This painting is a voluptuous specimen of the ancient mas- 
ters ; but the arms are considered too large. 

77 Vulcan at his Forge with the Cyclops Jordaens. 

78 Charity and three Children Vandyck. 

On the North Side of the Gallery. 

79 The Ordination of St. Dennis by Pope Clement Le Sueur. 

80 David and Abigail Rubens. 

81 A Female Saint kneeling, with two Children 

and Angels in the Clouds Da Cortona. 

82 Tancred and Ermina, from Tasso Ditto. 

83 The Annunciation P.Veronese. 

84 A Landscape. Evening Claude. 

85 The Nativity Tintoretto. 

86 Women, &c. working by Candlelight Giacomo Bassan. 

The Music-Room. Considerable taste and 
elegance are also conspicuously displayed in this 
apartment. The walls are painted of a dark 
brown, which operate as a pleasing relief from 
the previous exhibitions; several sofas of co- 
loured velvet, with a variety of flowers em- 
broidered upon them of exquisite workmanship ; 
rich chairs to correspond; large china jars, 
beautiful shells, inlaid cabinets, &c &c. The 
skylight also adds to the general appearance of 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 257 

this apartment, which is extremely curious, with 
stained-glass partitions. This room contains 
nearly twice as many pictures as any of the pre- 
ceding apartments: — 

Upon the North Side. 

87 A Magdalen Giacinto Brandi. 

88 Portrait of Don Antonio de Leiva Dossodi Ferrara. 

89 Portrait of Thomas Killegrew, Jester to King 

Charles II Dobson. 

90 The Holy Family Old Palma. 

91 Portrait of Berni, a Satirist of Italy Giorgione. 

92 Portrait of Cosmo, the last Duke of Florence Subtermans. 

93 A Philosopher Fran. Mola. 

94 The Virgin and Child in the Clouds with five 

Saints Pandyck. 

95 A Bacchanal with Silenus and Satyrs Jordatns. 

96 The Crucifixion Tintoretto. 

97 The Birth of Our Saviour, and Adoration of 

the Shepherds G. Bassan. 

98 Sir Charles Baromens visiting the Sick during 

the Time of a Plague at Milan Giacinto Bandi. 

99 Landscape and Figures of Dutch Boors Adrian Van Ostade. 

100 Susanna and the Elders Givsappe Chiari. 

This is a piece of great merit; the looks of surprise and shame 
of the Woman are excellent. 

101 Nymphs bathing Poelemberg. 

102 Bacchanals Rubens. 

103 Flight into Egypt Scaramuccia. 

1<)4 Education of Bacchus Simon Vouet. 

105 A Sketch of St. Augustine, in Ecstacy, con- 

templating the Mystery of the HolyTrinity, 

and the Incarnation of Our Saviour Vandyck. 

106 The Last Supper Tintoretto. 

This painting claims the most interesting atteution. 

107 The Nativity Young Palma. 

108 The Virgin, Our Saviour, and several Saints.. Guido. 

109 St. John in the Desert A.D. Sarto. 

110 Landscape and Robbery Borgognone. 

Ul Nymphs bathing Poelemberg. 

Upon the East Side of the Music-Room. 

112 A small Head of St. Sebastian Guido. 

113 Our Saviour meditating on the Sins of the 

World Pordedone. 

114 The Battle of Eckerbert Strada. 

115 St. Peter Giacinto Brandi. 

1)6 The Continence of Scipio Cortona. 

z 2 



258 . VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 

117 St. Lawrence on the Gridiron $ S.Rosa. 

118 Fortunetellers Giorgione. 

119 Inside of a Church, with Figures Stenwyck. 

120 Taking down from the Cross .„.. AlessandroTiarini* 

121 Henry the Seventh's three Children Mabuse. 

122 St. John in the Desert ; „ P. F. Mola. 

123 Judgment of Paris ; the Landscape by P. 

Brille ;..„ Rothenhammer . 

On the South Side. 

124 Portrait of Vandyck Himself. 

125 Portrait of Charles Lewis, Elector Palatine .. Vandyck, 

126 Portrait of Pope Innocent the Tenth Velasquez. 

127 Portrait of Andrea Vesalius, a Physician of 

great Celebrity Tintoretto. 

123 A naked Boy blowing Bubbles, and treading 

on a Skull, representing Vanity Eliz. Sirani. 

129 Head of a Dominican Friar Lanfranc. 

130 Portrait of a Spanish General Borgognone. 

131 Half length of Ann Carr, Countess of Bedford Vandyck. 

132 Girl, with a little Dog asleep in her Arms .... Rembrandt. 

133 Landscape N. Poussin. 

134 Our Saviour breaking the Bread Car. Dolce- 

135 Baptism of Queen Candace's Eunuch by St. 

Philip John Both. 

136 Portrait of St. Bruno, founder of the Carthu- 

sians C.Dolce. 

137 Landscape - N. Poussin. 

138 Hawking JVouvermans. 

139 Virgin and Child... Bar. Schidone- 

140 Dutch Boors in a Cottage Av. Gstade. 

141 Ditto..., Ditto. 

142 St. John with two Doctors of the Church .... Denis Calvart. 

143 Stag Hunting,. JVouvermans. 

On the West Side of the Music-Room. 

144 Portrait of an Astrologer G. F. Penni. 

145 An emblematical Picture, showing the folly 

of spending our lives in the pursuit of wine, 

music, and play Schorel. 

146 Omphale, the Mistress of Hercules A.Caracci. 

The power of love over strength is finely depicted in this 
painting. Omphale is represented naked, and possessing 
great beauty of expression and warmth of colouring. 

147 Head of a young Man Andrea del Sarto. 

148 Landscape with Figures. Storm N, Poussin. 

149 Flight into Egypt ,. Beinaschi. 

150 Landscape with Figures. Storm Gasper Poussin. 

151 A Tinker with his Dog, in a Landscape JVeeninx. 

152 The Pope saluting a Warrior Giacoma Bassqn. 

}$$ The Deity, with several Angels in the Clouds F. Albano : 



VISTT TO CORSHAM-HOUSfi. !259 

l»4 The Last Supper Gia. Bassan. 

155 Landscape and Cattle Bomboccio. 

The Saloon is everv thin": that a lover of 
taste can admire, and the visitor enters it with 
the most rapturous pleasure. It is of an octagon 
shape, 40 feet in diameter, and 24 feet high ; 
with three windows, or rather folding-doors, 
which have a descent of six steps that lead into 
the pleasure-grounds. An invisible fence is in 
front of the Saloon. The ceiling is an object 
of much curiosity, representing ribs, painted m 
imitation of coloured marble. The sofas are 
plentiful and elegant, particularly one of white 
satin, worked all over with various flowers in 
gold cord. Some rich and beautiful inlaid ca- 
binets, very fine shells, tables, books of prints, 
&c. ; it has also an elegant fire-place. The im- 
pression which the Saloon makes upon the 
spectator is not easily described, but it operates 
so strongly that every person seems to leave it 
with regret. The paintings are also of the most 
exquisite description: — 

156 Head of St. John Unknown. 

137 Virgin and Child, St. Joseph, and St. Catha- 
rine .. John Van Eyck. 

158 Inside of a Church by Torchlight, with a Pro- 

cession . Pet.Neefs. 

159 Head of Antonio, Son of Augustina Caracci.. An. Caracci. 

160 Portrait of a Man in a RuflF Rubens. 

161 Head.... Spagnoletlo. 

162 Adoration of the Magi ........ Al. Burer, 

163 Battle Piece Borgognone. 

164 Profile Head of a young Female ,. Guido, 

165 Judgment of Midas ,,..., , , G. Imresse. 

166 Soldiers on Horses Borgognon*. 

i. 67 Sir Francis Xavire dying on the Coast of 

China C. MaratH. 



260 VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 

1(58 Battle Piece Borgognone. 

169 Portrait of an Old Man Unknown. 

170 Head Dobson. 

171 Head Antonio More. 

172 Queen Anne's Nurse J. Ryley. 

173 Annunciation Perugino. 

1 74 Whole length Portrait of James Stuart, Duke 

of Richmond and Lenox Vandyck. 

175 Head of Lord Bernard Stuart, afterwards 

Earl of Lichfield Ditto. 

176 Portrait of Franciscus de Talis, the first In- 

ventor of Posts in Europe Unknown. 

177 Head of St. James Guercino. 

178 Our Saviour crowned with Thorns Bassan. 

179 Judgment of Paris G. Lairesse. 

This painting is much admired for its beauty of expression. 

180 Sea Piece Vandevelde, jun 

181 Portrait of a Man in a Ruff Rubens. 

182 The Nativity Al. Durer. 

183 Margaret, Countess of Richmond and Derby, 

Mother of Henry VII Mabuse. 

184 Head of a Slave ^ , -.. Rap. del Colle. 

185 Half-length Portrait of Scanderberg, in Ar- 

mour Giorgione. 

186 St. Peter Spagnoletto, 

187 Mary Magdalene Quintin Matsys. 

188 Sir Bryan Juke Holbein. 

189 Head of a Painter Unknown. 

190 Murder of the Innocents.. All. Turchi. 

191 Sea Piece Vandvelde, jun, 

192 Shipwreck of St. Paul on the Island of Melita Elsheimer. 

193 Landscape and Figures J.Brueghel. 

194 Ditto ; Ditto. 

The Dining-Room follows in succession, 
where usefulness seems to take the precedence 
of brilliancy of appearance. The furniture is 
composed of fine brown solid mahogany; side- 
board, tables, &c. The chairs are old-fashioned, 
with red bottoms ; and a handsome Turkey car- 
pet. Over the mantlepiece is a whole length- 
engraving of her late Royal Highness the Prin- 
cess of Coburg, by Jones. This is the only 
apartment that does not attract from its grandeur, 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 261 

but it has however to boast of some very beauti- 
ful highly finished paintings, which close this 

GRAND COLLECTION : — 

On the West Side. 

195 Fruit Piece M. Angelo Car. 

196 Sir Paul Rycant Sir Peter Lely. 

!97 Fruit Piece M. Angelo Car. 

198 The Duchess of Mantua, Grandmother to the 

Emperor Charles V. with her Son in her 
Lap, who was the last Duke of Mantua, 
with Figures B. Castiglione. 

199 DonQuixotte Spanish Painter. 

On the South Side of the Dining-Room. 

200 Battle Piece Pandolpho Reschi. 

201 Birds and Beasts going into the Ark B. Castiglione. 

202 Battle Piece Borgognone. 

203 Sir Peter Lely and Family, in a Musical Con- 

cert Sir Peter Lely. 

204 A Dutch Kermis, or Country Fair Old P. Bruegel. 

205 Cats Fighting, and Still Life Snyders. 

This painting is much admired. 

206. Battle Piece Borgognone. 

207 Ditto Pan. Reschi. 

208 Fruit Antonio Caracci . 

209 Ditto M. Angelo Car. 

210 Jupiter and Ganymede M- Angelo Buonarrotti* 

211 Fruit M. Angelo Car. 

212 Dogs and Foxes * Snyders. 

If admittance to the Library can be pro- 
cured, (which is not always the case), it will be 
found well worthy the attention of the visitor, 
It is 45 feet long, and 22 feet wide, and well 
filled with handsomely bound books ; but those 
of a high classic description do not appear to 
preponderate. Over the fire-place is a fine por- 

* To those persons who may feel anxious for a more detailed ac- 
count of these paintings, together with an historical account of 
Corsham-House ; an essay on the Fine Arts, and a dissertation on the 
merits of the different Schools ; also a review of the progressive state 
of the Arts in England, and biographical sketches of the numerous 
Artists in this collection, a small but interesting volume, written by 
Mr. Britton, will afford much valuable information and amusement 
on its perusal. 



262 VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 

trait, by Dobson, of Sir Charles Lucas, shot to 
death, August 28, 1648, for defending the Castle 
of Colchester against the Parliamentary army 
under Fairfax. Here are also some excellent 
miniatures, particularly one of George II. and 
two or three exquisitely finished bronzed figures, 
among which is a copy of the dying gladiator ; 
not forgetting a little reasonable man, remark- 
ably well put together, (formed by the present 
lady of the mansion, Mrs. Methuen). The ap- 
pearance of the library is altogether interesting. 
It also contains globes, maps, an excellent piano- 
forte, and a very elegant mahogany pair of steps 
on casters. Here are likewise two fine portraits 
of the daughters of the above Sir Charles Lucas, 
both of whom married into the Methuen fa- 
mily. 

In the domestic apartments above stairs, 
which are not included in the catalogue to meet 
the eye of the public, are some most excellent 
paintings, among which is nearly a whole-length 
portrait of Queen Elizabeth, said to be taken 
by her own desire when she was dying. The 
grim king of terrors is seen standing close to her 
left shoulder, as if to warn her Majesty of her 
approaching dissolution. The face of the Queen 
is finely worked up ; and it claims the admira- 
tion of every spectator, as a masterpiece of ex- 
pression. There is evidently a great deal of 
doubt and apprehension depicted upon her 
countenance, and she appears to be suffering 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 263 

under the most excruciating bodily pain and 
mental anguish. It is in high preservation, and 
her Majesty is dressed in the peculiar costume 
which designated her reign. The painter, un- 
fortunately, is not known, although the most 
anxious inquiries have been made, and are con- 
tinually making to ascertain the fact. The King 
of Prussia has, within the last two or three years, 
it seems, sent an artist from Berlin to endeavour 
to give some clue towards the painter, but with- 
out any avail; it is however attributed to the 
pencil of some foreign artist. In the same room 
is also a very large picture, representing a bird's 
eye view of the City of Peru, and some others, 
with landscapes. 

The adjoining apartment contains the greatest 
curiosities in Corsham-House, from its being 
hung with the Gobeling Tapestry. The 
subjects represented, eight in number, are ex- 
quisitely executed, and some of them large 
pieces ; the most prominent of which is the dog 
jumping on the back of the wild boar, and seiz- 
ing him upon the hind part of his neck. The 
expression of the agony of the boar is almost 
real life; his starting eye is fine indeed. The 
perspective of the hills to the right of the 
tapestry is also admirably portrayed ; but the 
hunter in pursuit of the boar has the spear 
in his left hand, which is considered as rather a 
drawback to the otherwise finished excellence of 
this piece of workmanship. On each side of 



264 VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 

the bed is a painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
the children of the ancestors of the present pro- 
prietor ; one is a boy playing with a fine hound \ 
and the other a girl and a boy ; but the faces of 
the children are almost white, the colouring 
having completely lost its effect. This com- 
plaint, it should seem, has become rather general 
against the once highly esteemed flesh colouring 
so peculiar to this deservedly famed painter. 

In taking leave of the brilliant and superb 
part of this elegant mansion, one of the most 
useful parts of the establishment is offered to the 
view of the visitor, namely, the dairy. If this 
place, in which much taste is also shown, in the 
formation of an octagon small building, with 
very handsome stained glass, cannot boast of a 
Lingo to enjoy the cream of the thing, an obli- 
ging Cowslip is ready to give every explana- 
tion necessary. It is fitted up with every con- 
venience ; and upon the whole it must be pro- 
nounced a little elegant appendage to Corsham- 
House. 

The Promenade of the Grounds, lastly, 
attracts the attention of the visitor. If the study 
of art has been deemed necessary to give supe- 
rior taste in the formation of them, it must be 
confessed that the beauties of nature are, never- 
theless, to be met with at every step. Trees of 
the finest sort rise majestically over the ground ; 
and in the lowest part of the Park a piece of 
water has been formed to add to the effect, 



VISIT TO CORSHAM-HOUSE. 265 

which, with the distant hills, and the surrounding 
woody scenery, render the prospect delightfully 
interesting and picturesque. The late improve- 
ments in the grounds have been made from the 
designs of Mr. Repton. Chairs and benches, 
made of the boughs of trees, are to be found in 
various parts of the walks, to rest the visitor; 
and some curiously covered ones. The summer- 
bouse is a neat building, and the fond ivy has 
nearly obscured its front ; a sort of subterrane- 
ous turn-round is attached to it, that leads to 
the garden, but no admittance to which is 
granted. The stained-glass here has also a 
pretty effect, but more particularly when the 
trees and shrubs are viewed through it. At the 
bottom of the walk there is a fine view of the 
north front of the building, which has been 
modelled after the design of Henry the Seventh's 
Chapel at Westminster, aud has a very light at- 
tractive appearance. The flying buttresses and 
turrets are also viewed as great ornaments to 
this elegant mansion. The above addition has 
been erected within the last 18 years, from the 
design of John Nash, Esq. and cost, it is said, 
£80,000. 

It is thought that the proprietors of the 
coaches in Bath might employ one or two of 
their vehicles every Tuesday and Friday to a 
very good account, set apart expressly for the 
purpose of conveying visitors from Bath to 

CORSHAM-HOUSE. 

A a 



266 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 



WALK (or Excursion) XII. 



A visit to CLIFTON and BRISTOL HOT- 
WELLS. 

From the Old Bridge pass Holloway, (Chapel of St. 
Mary Magdalene) through Twiverton, Saltford, 
Keynsham, Brislington, pass Arno's Vale to Bris- 
tol. Walk alongside of the Avon, pass the New 
Jail to the Stop- Gate at Nova Scotia Wharf, and 
proceed to Rownham Tavern and the Ferry. Hot- 
Well-House and Pump-Room. St. Vincent's 
Rocks. Return over the Downs, through Clifton, 
to Sion-House, pass Prince of Wales f s Crescent, 
4*Ci SfC. ; cross Brandon-Hill to Bristol, through 
College-Green and the Docks. Pass the Exchange 
and Post- Office through Clare-Street, turn down 
High-Street, pass over Bristol-Bridge, through 
Temple-Street, and arrive at the Iro?i Bridge, from 
whence this Walk commenced. 



+++■+*■++*■ 



The delightful village of Clifton and the 
Bristol Hot Wells are so immediately con- 
nected with a visit to Bath, the facilities so nu- 
merous and easy to arrive at the above salubrU 
ous and healthful situation, the distance only 
13 miles, and the expense so trifling, that it is 
thought few persons who are anxious to make 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 267 

the most of their time would hesitate for a single 
instant in setting out to view, in addition to some 
almost unparalleled prospects, one of the most 
majestic works of nature, namely, St. Vincent's 
Rocks. Stage-coaches start almost every hour 
in the day from Bath to Bristol, outsides 2s. 6d. 
and insides 4s. and return from the latter place 
with the same convenience, regularity, and ex- 
pedition. 

On quitting the Old Bridge, the road along- 
side of the Avon, on the right, affords a fine 
view of the Royal Crescent, and the various ele- 
vations contiguous to it. To the left is Hoi- 
loway, situated in the parish of Wid combe and 
Lyncombe, and under Beechen Cliff stands the 
small chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, which, 
from its present dilapidated state is little better 
than a ruin, and divine service has not been per- 
formed in it for a long time past. Its founder is 
unknown ; but it is in the gift of the Lord Chan- 
cellor. Viewed from the road, the chapel, which 
is built in the Gothic style, and covered with 
ivy, has an interesting effect : — 

'Ere round the huge oak, which o'ershadows yon mill, 

The fond ivy had dar'd to entwine, 
And the church was a ruin, that nods on yon hill, 

Where the rook built its nest in the pine. 

It is a piece of considerable antiquity, which 
may be seen on the east side of the porch from 
the following lines, in rude characters : — 



268 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

Thys. chapell. floryschyd. wt. formosyte spectabyll. 

In, the. honowre. of. M. Magdalen, prior Cantlow. hath. 

edyfyde. 
Desyring. yow. to. pray. for. him. wt. yowre. pryers, delecta- 

byll. I 

That. sche. will, inhabit, him. in. hevyh. ther. evyr. to. abyde. 

A small hospital for idiots, adjoining to the 
chapel, also belongs to the endowment, which 
was rebuilt in 1761. 

TWIVERTON (provincially called Twer- 1 
TON, 2 miles, 6 furlongs) is a neat, interesting 
looking village, and is rather conspicuous for 
its large broad-cloth manufactory. This build- 
ing, which is lofty and capacious, possesses all 
the appearance of an elegant mansion. It is the 
property of Mr. Wilkins, who has erected, con- 
tiguous to his manufactory, a very handsome 
range of neat and comfortable dwellings, built of 
freestone, in the Gothic style, for his numerous 
workmen ; and, with the addition of his own re- 
sidence and grounds attached to it, gives a 
pleasing finish to the whole. Near the extre- 
mity of this village stands a small neat house, in 
which it is asserted that several chapters of 
Tom Jones were written by Fielding :— 

When from the world departs a son of fame, 
His deeds or works embalm his precious; name ; 
Yet, not content, the public call for art, 
To rescue from the tomb his mortal part ; 
Demand the painter's and the sculptor's hand, 
To spread his mimic form throughout the land j 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 269 

A form, perhaps, when living was neglected, 
And, when it could not feel respect, respected !— 

Garbick, 

About a mile to the left of Twerton is New* 
ton St. Loe Park, belonging to William Gore 
Langton, Esq. which is distinguished not only 
for an elegant modern mansion, but for the beauty 
of its gardens and the grandeur shed around 
from its lofty venerable oaks, added to its pic- 
turesque scenery, which receives a considerable 
and pleasing variety from several sheets and falls 
of water. About half a mile farther on the 
right, Kelweston-House, and its fine woody 
appearance^ demands the attention of the tra- 
veller, belonging to Sir John Hawkins, Bart. 
Queen Elizabeth was entertained at the above 
seat with great splendor; and it was also in this 
mansion, that a translation of the poem of Ari- 
osto, the celebrated Orlando Furioso, was pro- 
duced, when in the possession of the Harrington 
family, which were eminently distinguished for 
their wit and talents. Queen Elizabeth also 
stood godmother to the above translator. 

SALTFORD (5 m.) contains but a few strag- 
gling houses. 

KEYNSHAM (7 m ) consists of one street 
of some length, and is a market-town; it was 
formerly distinguished for its manufacture of 
cloth ; but the principal , occupation of the in- 
habitants, at present, is spinning for the clothiers 
at Sbepton and Bradford. The church, which 

A a 2 



270 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, is a hand- 
some erection, and has a lofty tower, and good 
ring of bells ; and it also contains some very 
elegant and superior monuments, particularly 
that of Sir Thomas Bridges. Keynsham in for- 
mer times was celebrated for an abbey, but no 
traces of which now remain. The road affords 
some delightful prospects, till 

BRISLINGTON (10 m. 4 f.) appears in 
sight, which is a small but clean village. Pre- 
vious to entering Brislington, on the right, 
stands the Lunatic Asylum, under the manage- 
ment of Dr. Fox. It is peculiarly well adapted 
for the reception of those unfortunate persons, 
from the airiness of its situation, and the ad- 
vantage of its grounds; and, added to the supe- 
rior skill and mode of treatment pursued by this 
gentleman, it appears, numerous persons have 
been restored to their friends and the advantages 
of society. The following anecdote is related 
of Dr. Fox, the authenticity of which has been 
vouched for. The doctor, it seems, was in the 
general habit of visiting his patients alone, and 
also frequently walking through his grounds 
without the attendance of his servant, at the 
bottom of which was a large bath appropriated 
for the use of the invalids. The doctor, in one 
of his morning walks, was seized suddenly upon 
by some of his patients, who threatened to drown 
him; when, without betraying the slightest 
symptoms of fear, and with the utmost coolness, 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 271 

observed to his insane persecutors, that, pre- 
vious to their throwing him into the water, it 
might be better for them, as a token of their 
triumph, to give three very loud cheers. This 
stratagem had the desired effect. The noise im- 
mediately brought the keepers to the spot ; the 
madmen were instantly diverted from their ob- 
ject, and the life of the doctor thus preserved. 

Within a mile of Bristol, on the left side of 
the road, is a gentleman's seat, denominated 
Arno's Vale ; and near to which is the elegant 
mansion, built of freestone, belonging to J. 
Maxse, Esq. On the left is a building which 
resembles a castle, and has a good effect, but 
upon its immediate approach it is found to be 
stables. On descending the hill, a view of the 
populous City of Bristol bursts upon the tra- 
veller. 

Upon crossing the iron bridge, previous to 
the direct entrance into the City of Bristol, the 
traveller will experience a most delightful walk 
on the banks of the Avon, and which is one 
mile and a half nearer to Clifton and the Hot- 
Wells than through the streets of the above 
bustling city. A second iron-bridge, of one arch, 
soon presents itself close to Bathurst's Hotel; 
contiguous to which is the New Jail, built of 
rock-stones. This prison is an extensive build- 
ing, and has a lodge and yard in the front of it. 
The keeper's house is situated in the centre, 
adjoining to which are two iron galleries nearly 



272 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

at the top of it, leading to two long wings. It 
has a formidable and terrifying aspect ; the iron 
gratings of the windows are strong and massy ; 
and the prison is completely encircled with a 
high stone wall. On passing this receptacle for 
the depraved and abandoned, the eye is relieved 
with a most enlivening, extensive, and diversi- 
fied prospect. The spectator, on standing with 
his back to the cut, will have to his right a 
fine view of that part of the venerable cathedral 
which appears to stand in the centre of the trees, 
supported by the spires of St. Augustin's, St. 
Stephen's, St. Werburg, Christ- Church, and All- 
Saints. In the front, Tyndale's Park, the house 
belonging to its proprietor, which commands an 
extensive prospect, stands on an eminence con- 
tiguous to Brandon-Hill. At a small distance 
from this spot, which throws an elegance over 
the scene, rises, in the most grand and majestic 
style, the Royal York-Crescent. From its 
extraordinary elevation it has a very attractive 
appearance, many of the houses being orna- 
mented with elegant verandas ; it is built of 
freestone, though some of these lofty edifices 
differ as to colour. To increase the effect, at a 
considerable distance beneath the above fine 
range of residences, is the Lower Crescent, 
but many of the houses remain in an unfinished 
state. On the side of the Royal-Crescent, 
a charming row of houses appear in great for- 
wardness. The Hot-Wells-Road is also dis- 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 273 

tinctly seen. Illhouse-Dock, with ships in what 
is termed " the float/' gives a most interesting 
variety to the prospect. To the left is seen, at 
an immense height, Ashton-Hill, which is dis- 
tinguished from its having three trees upon the 
top of it, and the mansion of Lady Smith, near 
to Lee-Wood. Pursuing the walk, the traveller 
is impeded in his career by a " stop-gate," 
where one halfpenny is demanded for the accom- 
modation ; and contiguous to the above gate is 
Nova- Scotia-Wharf. It is here the entrance 
from the river takes place to the float, passing 
through Cumberland-Bason, which has a large 
pair of dock-gates. The West Indiamen fre- 
quently remain in this bason, till an opportunity 
offers for them to unload higher up. Rownham 
Tavern and the Ferry is now soon gained by 
the traveller, which affords a most delightfuL 
opening and view of Dundry-Hill, with the 
tower upon the top of it. To the right, but al- 
most close to the above tavern, stands a fine 
handsome range of buildings, called " Watts's 
Folly" which is built upon a rock of an immense 
height. The ruggedness of the rock has been 
cleaned off so smoothly, that it has now the ap- 
pearance of elegant brick-work. The " Folly" 
as it is_termed, was originally commenced by 
the proprietor of the Patent Shot Manufactory ; 
but it completely ruined him before it was half 
built, and remained in an unfinished state for some 
^years. A story is very prevalent at Clifton re- 



274 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

spectingthis Folly ; indeed, it is vouched for as 
fact, that Mr. Watts was induced to undertake 
these buildings in consequence of a dream that 
had some allusion to the process of making shot ; 
which, it appears, must fall from an immense 
height before they can acquire a finish. The 
story goes on to say, that out of one of these 
fallen shot, which rebounded from the ground, 
an immense range of high houses instantly ap- 
peared, which promised an accession of fortune. 
Mr. Watts being at Clifton at the time, and this 
rock appearing to accord with his dream, the 
erections were instantly set about : unfortu- 
nately for himself and family, this favourable 
interpretation was never realized; but, on the 
contrary, destruction and misery. On passing 
the Folly , on the turn-round by the side of the 
inn, a fine gravel-walk appears, shaded by a long 
line of trees, of 600 feet in length, contiguous to 
which is St, Vincent's Parade, an elegant row of 
houses, built of freestone ; at the end of the Pa- 
rade is a handsome Colonade, in the form of a 
crescent, filled with shops, that operate as an 
agreeable promenade in wet weather; and near to 
which is the Hot-Well-House and Pump- 
Room. It is a very plain, small building. The 
water drank here is without smell, of a soft, 
warm, milky taste, and pleasing and grateful to 
the stomach. The spring from which it is taken 
rises near the bottom of the cliffs, ten feet above 
low water mark, forcibly making its way through 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 275 

an aperture in the solid rock, and is of so copious 
a nature as to discharge 60 gallons in a minute. 
It has been analysed for the last 200 years by 
various eminent physicians, and pronounced to be 
extremely efficacious in cases of weakness of the 
lungs, fevers, in spitting of blood, chlorosis, dy- 
sentery, internal inflammations, &c. if timely taken 
in hand. It is also said to be beneficial in dia- 
betes, stone, gravel, stranguary, gleets, loss of 
appetite, and indigestion; and consumptions have 
been stopped in their rapid career by its continued 
use in milk diet. It is however considered of a 
hard quality, and will not easily dissolve soap ; 
but it is drunk generally by the inhabitants of 
Clifton, and brought into their houses by pipes. 
The above Pump-Room, it seems, is shortly to 
be taken down to increase the towing-path, and 
also in consequence of the injury it has sustained 
from the attraction of Sion-House; a new one 
is to be erected in a more preferable situa- 
tion, and a road made to it. Her late Majesty, 
when she visited Clifton, drank the water at the 
Old Pump-Room. 

The stupendous rocks, on each side of the 
river, called St. Vincent's, now burst upon the 
spectator with such sublimity and grandeur as to 
set description at defiance : the highest part of 
which is full 300 feet from the bed of the river. 
The Avon, which flows between them, for about 
a mile and a half, no where exceeds 150 yards 
in breadth ^ and it is conjectured they were se- 



276 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

parated from each other by some dreadful con- 
vulsion of nature. They have the appearance 
of a dark red marble. A chapel, formerly 
erected upon the highest part of these rocks, 
was dedicated to St. Vincent, after whom they 
are named. The foliage of the numerous trees 
in Lee-Woody opposite, peeping as it were from 
their summits, forms a most delightful contrast. 
This wood, which contains the kingly oak, the 
lofty elm, ash, sycamore, box, and grave yew- 
trees, blending their various colours, with the 
addition of numerous others, render it so exu- 
berant and attracting, that numerous parties, in 
summer-time, frequently cross the river, (what 
might be termed " gypsy in g" it,) taking their 
provisions, tea-kettle, &c. with them, and often 
concluding these excursions, on the verdant 
spot, to the sound of a fiddle, upon the " light 
fantastic toe." The Indiamen, merchantmen, 
sloops, boats, &c. sailing to and from Bristol, 
tend verv much to increase the effect. The men 
employed in blowing-up the rocks, which is 
rather a service of danger, have tables set out 
by the side of the river with selections of various 
pieces of the rock, termed bacon, blue, and 
black spar, with some variegated Bristol stone 
for sale, left to the generosity of the purchaser. 
Some parts of this stone are polished, and made 
into chimney-pieces, but it is principally burnt 
for lime. The echo is thunder indeed when the 
blowing-up is performed ; and the men on the 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 277 

rocks, engaged in sending some of the frag- 
ments down, appear like little boys. Near to 
the top of one of the above high rocks is to be 
seen the " Giant's Hole." From the great 
curiosity which frequently induced numerous 
persons to ascend, to explore the two cavities 
which it contained, an outer and an inner cham- 
ber, where, according to tradition, a giant for- 
merly dwelt, all approach to it now has very 
properly been blown up, in order to prevent any 
farther danger or accidents. Persons walking 
by the side of these rocks appear truly diminu- 
tive ; and the majestic appearance of the above 
venerable cliffs must be pronounced one of the 
grandest scenes in nature : 

How beautiful the pale rocks, above the shore, 
Uplift their bleak and furrow'd aspect high! 

How proudly desolate their foreheads, hoar, 
That meet the earliest sunbeams of the sky. 

Round to yon dusky mast, with pennants gay, 
The tall bark on the winding waters line, 

Between the riven cliffs plies her hard way, 

And, peering on the sight, the white sail's shine. 

Alas ! for those, by drooping sickness worn, 
Who now come forth to meet the gladsome ray, 

And feel the fragrance of the tepid morn 

Round their torn breast and throbbing temples play ! 

Perhaps the muse, with a desponding sigh, 
On the cold vault that shall their bones inurn ; 

Whilst every breeze seems, as it whispers by, 
To breathe of comfort never to return. 

Bb 



278 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

Yet oft, as sadly-thronging dreams arise, 

Awhile forgetful of their pain and gaze, 
A transient lustre lights their faded eyes, 

And o'er their cheek the tender hectic strays. 

The purple morn that paints with sideling gleam, 
The cliff's tall crest, the waving woods that ring 

With charm of birds, rejoicing in the beam, 

Touch soft the wakeful nerve's according string. 

Then, at sad meditation's silent hour, 

A thousand wishes steal upon the heart ; 
And, whilst they meekly bend to Heaven's high power, 

Ah ! think 'tis hard, His surely hard to part — 

To part from every hope that brought delight ; 

From those that lov'd them, those that lov'd so much ; 
Then fancy swells the picture on the sight, 

And softens every scene at everv touch. 

Sweet as the mellow'd woods beneath the moon, 
Remembrance lends her soft uniting shades : 

** Some nafral tears she drops, but wipes them soon" 
The world retires, and its dim prospect fades. 

Airs of delight that soothe the aching sense ; 

Waters of health, that through yon caverns glide ; 
Oh, kindly yet your healing powers dispense, 

And bring back feeble life's exhausted tide ! 

Some orphan maid, deceiv'd in early youth, 

Pale o'er yon spring may hang in mute distress ; 

Who dreamt of faith, of happiness, and truth, 
Of love — that virtue would protect and bless. 

Some musing youth in silence there may bend, 
Untimely stricken by sharp sorrow's dart ; 

For friendship form'd, yet left without a friend, 
And bearing still the arrow at his heart ! 

On proceeding a short distance, the turning 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 279 

of the river still continues attractive. The view 
of Kings Road and Cook's Folly must be seen 
to feel the beauty of the impression ; on the 
latter place, it seems, a great number of the 
trees have been cut down to increase the pro- 
spect, and there is one of the most delightful 
" look-outs** from an old building, that can be 
imagined. 

On the traveller's return to Bristol, upon 
turning to the right, and ascending the hill, the 
delightful village of Clifton will be gained, 
which, from the air being so remarkably pure 
and salubrious, added to its elevation, is styled 
the Montpelier of England. It is worthy of 
observation, that the turf abounds with aroma- 
tic plants, which grow here wildly, and are 
not to be met with in any other part of the 
kingdom, being natives of this peculiar spot. 
The fragrance from these plants proves of the 
most vivifying nature, not only to the valetudi- 
narians, but to all the frequenters of this health- 
ful retreat. Clifton-Downs now become inte- 
resting to the spectator, which is covered with 
verdure all the year. The invalids are here seen 
enjoying the light restorative breeze, several of 
whom are drawn, in small curricles, by a pair 
of donkeys ; the charge fortius vehicle, includ- 
ing the driver,is Is. 6d. per hour. The remnants 
of some ancient fortifications belonging to the 
Romans are still visible, and may be traced upon 
these Downs, near to which are the remains of 



280 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

an old tower, a circular building containing 
some windows, but without any roof; the in- 
terior of which has only to boast of a brick 
floor and a fire-place ; it has three open spaces, 
which were formerly doors. From the centre of 
this building are three most delightful views 
through the above openings. In the front, an 
extensive prospect af Gloucestershire. On the 
right, part of Clifton, Northampton-Buildings ; 
and in the back ground, Dundry-Hill. On 
the left, King's Road, with the ships lying at 
anchor; the Bristol Channel, and the Moun- 
tains in South Wales. At the end of the Downs 
the traveller is attracted by the mansion of Sir 
William Draper, once so conspicuous in the 
minds of the public, from the severe attack he 
received from the pen of the hitherto undis- 
covered Junius. To the left of this seat is a 
plain but expensive monument, with an urn upon 
its top, erected by the above gentleman, " Sa- 
cred to the memory of the Field-Officers, Cols. 
Brereton and J. More; the Lieutenants, Ensigns, 
and Surgeons, of the 79th Regiment :" the in- 
scription also states, — " the French forces in 
Asia were withstood and repulsed ; the commerce 
of Great Britain preserved, by the defence of 
Madras. The battle of Wandewash. Three 
superb capitals taken. Arcot, Pondicherry, the 
Manilla and Phillipine islands. The generous 
treatment of a vanquished enemy— exhibiting an 
illustrious example of true fortitude and mode- 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 281 

ration worthy of being transmitted to the latest 
posterity— that future generations may know 
humanity is the characteristic of British con- 
querors ! These conquests were obtained from 
1759 to 1762." To the right of the house is 
another monument, with a lofty pillar, bearing 
the following inscription : — 

" Gulielmo Pitt, Comiti de Chatham, 

Hoc Amicitiae privatae Testimonium, 

Simul et Honoras publici Monumentum, 

Posuit Gulielmus Draper." 

Near to this estate is the mansion of Hart Davis, 
Esq. M.P. of Bristol, with some charming 
grounds attached to it. 

A few minutes bring the visitor to SlON- 
Hotjse, or the Upper Hot Well ; it is an 
elegant erection, and also contains a most excel- 
lent library. At this house resides Miss Shar- 
ples and her brother, (George,) portrait-paint- 
ers in crayons, whose talents for brilliancy of 
colouring, softness of touch, and accuracy of 
likeness, are deservedly the theme of all the 
fashionable visitors and judges of painting. The 
same young iady is equally attractive in historical 
subjects and delightful landscape scenery. The 
Prince of Wales's Crescent is a handsome range 
of houses, but the Mall, for beauty of situa- 
tion, may be said to take the lead in Clifton. 
Rodney and Saville Places, Richmond-Terrace, 
Boyce's Buildings, York and Prince's, &c. are 

B b 2 



282 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

all worthy of inspection. The Royal York- 
Crescent can boast of a terrace equal to any 
street in London ; added to Beaufort, Paragon, 
Trafalgar, Buildings, and Windsor-Terrace, 
commanding views of the river, render this 
watering-place a most desirable retreat. It is 
impossible to pass over the fine architectural 
appearance of the Mangeon- Hotel, (the daugh- 
ter of Mrs. M. a short time since, made her 
debut at Drury-Lane-Theatre, as a pupil, and 
under the auspices of Mrs. Mountain, with 
much success,) which, for its extensive esta- 
blishment and accommodation, is equal to any 
hotel in the kingdom. The Church at Clifton 
is neat but small, near to which is the mansion 
of Gabriel Goldney, Esq. so attractive from its 
celebrated curious grotto ; the entrance to 
which, from its great variety of beautiful and 
scarce shells, its fine roof, and rich Mosaic 
pavements, together with its stream of water in 
gentle rills, contrived to fill a reservoir for gold 
and silver fish, captivates the spectator ; it is 
also enriched with metallic ores, petrifactions, 
Bristol stones, &c. A subterraneous passage is 
connected with the grotto, which leads to a 
terrace-walk, from which are seen some interest- 
ing landscapes. 

On quitting Clifton, the most preferable road 
to return to Bristol is to cross Brandon-Hill, 
which is about 250 feet, in perpendicular height, 
from its base. From this hill is a fine panora- 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 283 

mic view of all the city ; and from its summit 
Oliver Cromwell, it appears, battered the Cathe- 
dral and town. 

College-Green and the Docks, if time permit, 
are well worthv of observation. In Claire- Street, 
the Exchange, Post-Office, and Council-House, 
are equally important. On turning down High- 
Street, the traveller will pass over Bristol- 
Bridge, built of Portland-stone, which is an 
elegant structure of three arches. Then, through 
Temple-Street, and cross the iron bridge, when 
the visitor will soon regain his vehicle. The 
return to Bath will also furnish him with a variety 
of rich prospects for his contemplation. 



284 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 



WALK (or Excursion) XIII. 



A sail down the Avon through the Majestic Rocks of St. 
Vincent to PILL. Cross the River to Weeks 's 
Hotel, in Gloucestershire. (Ferry, Id.) WALK 
to Pen Pole, through the Village of Shirehampton, 
the Park of Lord de Clifford's to King's 
Weston Hill and Tavern. A visit to Lord de 
Clifford's House and celebrated Collec- 
tion of Paintings by the OLD MASTERS, 
Return to Bristol over Durdham Downs, pass 
the Black Boy in the main Road, the King's Parade, 
TyndalVs Park, Berkeley-Square, through Park- 
Street to College-Green, cross the Docks up^Clare- 
Street to the Bush Tavern, where Stages are always 
in readiness to convey the Traveller to Bath. 



Should the traveller feel inclined to prolong 
his stay at Clifton for one evening, in order to 
enjoy the salubrious breezes from an early 
aquatic excursion in the morning, on the Avon,to 
the little sea-port of Pill, about the distance 
of six miles, and that, too, at the trifling expense 
of sixpence, (vessels and boats always passing 
from Bristol); also to partake of one of the most 
extensive and delightful prospects in the king- 
dom, at Pen Pole ; and from thence to walk 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. J285 

through the fine grounds, witnessing the pic- 
turesque scenery with which the Park of Lord 
DE Clifford so fertilely abounds : likewise to 
view the fine mansion of his Lordship, and his 
unique collection of Paintings, considered in 
point of talent and value as the third private 
collection in England, from the pencils of the 
following great painters, Vandyck, Poussin, 
Teniers, Claude Lorrain, Michael An- 
gelo, guido, guercino, vanbloom, cana- 
lotti, Rubens, &c. &c. The time so em- 
ployed must be considered, by every intelligent 
mind, as well devoted to the combined advan- 
tages of pleasure and instruction. 

The sail from Rownham Tavern (the Ferry) 
is truly delightful. The effect is sublime. En- 
compassed, as it were, on each side by the ma- 
jestic rocks of St. Vincent, appearing like a 
huge cavern rent asunder. The numerous mar- 
ket-boats, sloops, brigs, Indiamen, &c. conti- 
nually passing to and from Bristol; the men 
employed in blowing up the rocks ; the foot- 
passengers promenading up and down alongside 
of the river ; the green hills in front, trees, &c. 
with the charming variety which the windings 
of the Avon offers to the enraptured eyes of the 
spectator, affords contemplation of the most ex- 
tensive and enlightened description. The pas- 
sage becomes rather rough as Hongroad is ap- 
proached, at which place a large clustre of 
fine trees, on theleft, are much admired. Pill 



286 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

is at length made, which has a convenient bay 
for shipping ; and the packets for Cork, Water- 
ford, &c. sail from this port. It is full of pub- 
lic-houses, among which the Waterloo-Inn, Red 
Lion, and Duke of Wellington, are the most 
conspicuous. Near the river it has something 
like the appearance of Wapping ; but, at its ex- 
tremity, towards the country, it possesses the 
neatness of a village. It has a small Church. 
Here are also some signs put up at two or three 
huckster's shops, pointing out the widows and 
orphans of the men who were lost in the William 
and Mary Packet, belonging to PtLL, in 1818, 
as a means of attracting custom. One penny is 
charged for the ferry across the water to Weeks' $ 
Hotel, when the traveller arrives in Gloucester- 
shire. Pill, with the ships, craft, &c. has a 
pretty effect from the above hotel. The first 
road on the left leads to Lamplighter's Hall, 
and the village of Shirehampton appears on the 
right. The singular and delightful elevation of 
Pen Pole is soon ascertained, from which one 
of the most extensive prospects in the world is 
witnessed : — 

What a scene ! 
What various views unnumber'd spread beneath ! 
Woods, tow'rs, vales, caves, dells, cliffs, and torrent floods, 
And here and there, between the spiry rocks, 
The broad flat sea. 

The grounds of Lord de Clifford extend 
to Pen Pole, and upon which elevation a sort 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 287 

of sundial is erected, in order to accommodate, 
as well as give a direction to the telescopes of 
the travellers. The trees, valleys, and pic- 
turesque scenery immediately adjoining and be- 
neath Pen Pole is very pleasing, but the vast 
expanse which unfolds itself is of so sublime 
a nature, that imagination must supply the 
defect of description. In the centre appears 
the immense space of the Severn, into which 
the Avon empties itself. Ships making and leav- 
ing Bristol. The range of hills and mountains 
encompassing the view as far as the eye can pos- 
sibly stretch. To the right is seen the New 
Passage-House to Wales, and the Passage-House 
on the other side. In the circle on the right is 
also the fine range of hills in Somersetshire. On 
quitting Pen Pole the village of Shirehampton 
is passed through, when the traveller soon enters 
the delightful Park of Lord de Clifford, and 
gains the fourth mile- stone from Bristol. This 
Park affords some charming views of Dundry 
Tower, the Old Ruin at Clifton, the windings 
of the Avon, and the seats of Mr. Nash and Mr. 
Miles, also add considerable grandeur to the 
scene. This latter mansion, which has been 
recently finished, is a very superior build- 
ing. It has in the front of it a fine portico 
with lofty pillars, and likewise a portico with 
pillars on each of its sides. The above seat is 
the property of a rich merchant, who has not 
only consulted taste in its formation, but it is 



288 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

said to have cost upwards of £150,000. It con- 
tains 132 rooms. The expenses of the hall 
alone were £20,000. The interior has also to 
boast of the advantages of the most modern fur- 
niture, with all its superb embellishments. An 
extensive library is forming; and several of the 
paintings which decorate the principal rooms 
are from the first masters of antiquity. Three 
of which cost £30,000. On proceeding through 
the Park, the spectator obtains a front view of 
the mansion of Lord de Clifford, which was 
erected from a design of Sir John Vanbrugh, the 
architect who built Blenheim-House. It has ra- 
ther a heavy appearance, and not much admired 
for its style of architecture. On passing an ele<- 
gant modern little cottage, near to which on the 
left is King's Weston Hill ; upon this eminence 
is erected a very commodious Inn, with large 
stabling, &c. which proves extremely convenient 
to those parties who leave Bristol to admire the 
prospects of Pen Pole, and to visit the House 
and Paintings of Lord de Clifford. On the sum- 
mit of King's Weston Hill, the view, if possible, 
is still more extensive than witnessed at Pen 
Pole. Tomb Marie, the highest mountain in 
Wales, is distinctly seen ; also the Denny, 
Chepstow, Cardiff, &c. &c. Upon quitting the 
above Inn, a lane on the right is the carriage- 
road, and only entrance for visitors that leads to 
the front door and hall of Lord de Clifford's 
mansion, which is about the distance of three 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 289 

huudred yards from King's Weston Inn. The 
hours of admittance are from eleven to two 
o'clock ; and, from the liberality of his Lord- 
ship, in order to gratify the curiosity of the pub- 
lic, the Paintings are to be seen nine months in 
the vear. The visitor has nothing more to do 
than to ring a bell, and upon announcing his 
wishes to a footman, the housekeeper instantly 
presents herself, and the apartments are shown 
without delav. 

On entering the Hall, which is very lofty 
and in the form of a square, the effect is inte- 
resting and attractive. Thirty-six large por- 
traits, consisting of the male and female branches 
of the ancient family of De Clifford, com- 
pletely cover all the walls, in white projecting 
frames. The whole of the above portraits, 
painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller and Sir Peter 
Leiy, are in fine preservation, and retain all their 
original excellence and beauty of colouring. 
From this place, which, perhaps, might with 
more propriety be termed the Portrait Gal- 
lery, a door leads into an elegant inner-hall, in 
which a very fine piece of antiquity immediately 
interests the attention of the spectator, a wide 
old oak winding staircase, with handsomely 
carved bannisters, capacious landing-places, and 
very highly polished, which leads to 

Lady de Clifford's Dressing-Room.— Of 
this most magnificent apartment, viewed as a 
Lady's Dressing-Room, it may be urged, with- 

c c 



290 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

out disparagement or fear of contradiction, to 
have no equal in the kingdom ; it does not, how- 
ever, owe its importance to the art of the up- 
holsterer, adorned with the newest fashions 
— it has no fascinating draperies tastefully 
folded to enrapture the eyes of the spectator — no 
enticing Grecian sofa, by way of invitation to 
loll the time away with a novel, or interesting 
tete-ct-tite — in short, there is nothing of the 
boudoir about it ; nor are there any traces of the 
waiting maid's " occupation" to be witnessed, 
(although it is used by Lady de Clifford 
every day, and a small simple toilette is the 
only appendage of dress) that in any way tends 
to give it the above designation. The room is 
rather long and lofty ; the fine oak floor is 
highly polished ; and containing three capacious 
windows in a half circular front. From which 
the same delightful extensive prospect is wit- 
nessed as at Pen Pole. Not a ship enters, or 
goes out from the port of Bristol, but is dis- 
tinctly seen from this delightful apartment :— 

As far as I could cast my eves, 

Upon the sea, something, methought, did rise 

Like blueish mists, which, still appearing more, 

Took dreadful shapes, and thus mov'd tow'rds the shore : 

The object, I could first distinctly view, 

Was tall straight trees, which on the water flew : 

Wings on their sides instead of leaves did grow, 

Which gather'd all the breath the winds could blow : 

And at their roots grew floating palaces, 

Whose out-blown bellies cut the yielding seas ! 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 291 

The walls of the room are covered with paint- 
ings in gilt frames. The subjects in general are 
small, but they are of the first excellence. 
Some beautiful inlaid cabinets, rich and costly 
shells, &c also decorate this dressing-room. 
The following are the most eminent of the pic- 
tures : — 

Two Landscapes Poussin. 

These paintings are pronounced to be two of the best subjects of 
this great master; and were particularly admired by the Duchess of 
York, on her visit to De Clifford-House. 

The Holy Family lines. 

To the passing eye of the spectator nothing more appears than 
a small wreath of flowers ; and it almost requires the aid of a micro- 
scope to discover the Holy Family. It is a painting of extraordinary 
talent ; and the beauty and symmetry of the figures are finely pre- 
served and distinctly executed. It is worthy of the most minute in- 
vestigation. 

The Last Supper Franks. 

This is also an admirable production. 
A view of King's Weston-Hill, with the Seat of 

Lord de Clifford A Modern Painter . 

Three delightfully executed views of Venice. 

Numerous Scripture and other pieces of great beauty and talent. 

A fine collection of Miniatures by the first Artists in that line of 

painting. 
In Crayons, over the fire-place, the Dowager Lady 
de Clifford and her Children ; among whom 

is recognized the present Earl Gardner. 

Also Venus at her Toilet, in white marble 5 a most delicate and highly 
finished piece of sculpture. 

Thy fair ideas, thy delightful forms, 
By Love imagin'd, by the Graces touch'd 
The boast of weil-pleas'd Nature ! Sculpture seiz'd, 
And bade them ever smile in Parian stone. 
Selecting Beauty's choice, and that again 
Exalting, blending in a perfect whole 
Thy workmen left even Nature's self behind. 

The Drawing-Room.— This apartment, the 
walls of which are covered with crimson damask 
silk, possesses all the character of former times; 



292 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

the antique grate and old chairs still retain 
their places, and the harmony of the scene is 
not interrupted from the introduction of any 
articles of modern invention. The paintings too 
are from the pencils of some of the oldest mas- 
ters, and portray most exquisitely the highest 
order of the art. 

St. John in the Wilderness Raphael. 

A Connoisseur in painting would think a hundred miles hut a 
trifling distance to hehold such a fine picture, independently of the 
beauty of its colouring, and possessing several other highly finished 
requisites ; the foot of St. John positively appears protruded from the 
canvass. It is almost reality personified, and its excellence and effect 
cannot be communicated by description. 
Susanna and the Elders , Rubens. 

This is a small painting, but the face of the woman is exquisitely 
beautiful ; the shame of her exposed situation is depictured with great 
expression ; and the peeping curiosity of the Elders is also portrayed 
with the utmost skill. 

St. Cecilia Domenichino. 

The drapery of this portrait is the admiration of all persons who 
have witnessed it. 

A Magdalen Guido. 

Joseph and our Saviour Ditto. 

The countenance of our Saviour is finely delineated ; it is a face not 
of this world ; and possesses all those sublime touches for which the 
heads of this great master are so eminently characterized. The hand 
of Joseph is also executed with uncommon beauty. Both the above 
paintings cannot be too much admired. 

St. Cecilia and her Children Maratti. 

These portraits are sweetly interesting. The harmony of all the 
faces are admirably personified. 

Lot and his Two Daughters 

Moses in the Bulrushes Poussin. 

The excellence of the water in this picture is the admiration of 
every artist, and the praise of every spectator. It appears almost 
transparent. 

This room also contains several other fine paintings. 

Over the fire-place stands the Judgment of Paris, in white marble. 
It is a finely executed piece of sculpture. 

A Satyr tied is also worthy of inspection. 

Two most superb inlaid cabinets, and the highly polished oak- 
floor, tend to give the Drawing-Room the appearance of ancient 
grandeur. 



EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 203 

The Parlour: 

Sameon and Delilah Poussin. 

The strength and energy of Samson, and the beauty and fasci- 
nating softness of Delilah, are finely contrasted. It is an admirable 
painting. 
A Madona and sleeping Child Guercino. 

The loveliness of the face of the Madona and the very natural 
situation of the Infant claims attention. 

Venus and Cupid Guido. 

The powerful attractions of Venus, and the liveliness of the young 
urchin, have been portrayed with great felicity by this distinguished 
artist. This painting imparts all the warmth of love. 

There are also some fine views of Ancient Rome, much admired 
for the grandeur of their architecture. 

Eating-Parlour : 

Two whole-length Portraits of Lady Elizabeth 

Cromwill, and Thomas Earl of Essex Sir Godfrey Kneller. 

The beauty of Lady Elizabeth, her elegant figure, and the rich- 
ness of the drapery and laces, are delineated with all the happy per- 
fection of this great portrait-painter j but the fine interesting appear- 
ance of the Earl is truly captivating. The expression of the counte- 
nance contains some exquisite touches of colouring. 

Some excellently finished bronzed figures also decorate this 
parlour ; and the doors of which that lead into the other apartments 
are of solid mahogany. 

The remuneration to the housekeeper is left 
entirely to the liberality of the visitors. 

Upon leaving the inn at King's Weston-Hill, 
a delightful walk is experienced through the 
fields on returning to Bristol. The seats of the 
following gentlemen are also passed : Sneyd- 
Park, Mr. Hall; Sir Henry Lippincott's ; and 
Mr. Webb, M.P. for Gloucester. The fine 
Downs of Durdham, upon which are numerous 
rich lofty trees, render this situation truly pic- 
turesque. The Bristol Races are also held upon 
these Downs; and the course is considered a 
very good one. The main road is soon acquired, 
and the line of direction is in passing the sign of 

cc 2 



294 EXCURSION TO CLIFTON. 

the Black Boy, King's Parade, TindalPs Park, 
Berkeley-Square, through Park-Street to College- 
Green, and upon crossing the Docks to Clare- 
Street. The Bush Tavern has always nu- 
merous stages to convey the traveller, almost at 
every hour in the day, to the City of Bath. 



LITERARY PERSONS. 295 



DISTINGUISHED LITERARY PERSONS, 

NATIVES OF BATH, 

Or otherwise connected with the above City. 



One of the oldest natives on record, who distinguished 
himself as a literary character, was John Hales, de- 
nominated the " Ever Memorable. 77 He was born in 
Bath in 1584, and received the rudiments of his edu- 
cation at the Grammar-School. From his great profi- 
ciency in the Greek language, at the early age of 
twenty-eight years he was appointed Greek Professor 
to the University of Oxford. It appears, that, out of 
all his works, u Golden Remains" was the only one 
ever published; and which took place after his death. 
It was a collection of religious tracts, to promote the 
interest of religion, and to reduce it to its primitive 
purity and simplicity. He experienced a great num- 
ber of vicissitudes in the course of a long life, and 
was at length compelled to sell his library to support 
himself; and had it not have been for the bountv of 
a friend, his latter end would have been marked with 
want — too often the fate of genius. He died in 
1656, in the seventy-second year of his age, and was 
buried in Eton College church-yard. It is said of him, 
that he was one of the best characters that ever ex- 
isted in any age ; and was also distinguished for his 
fine wit, scholastic acquirements, and elegance as a 
poet. 



296 LITERARY PERSONS. 

Mr. Anstey, the author of the " New Bath Quick" 
although not a native of Bath, must, from the great 
interest this poem excited at the time of its publica- 
tion, and also from the long residence of this gentle- 
man in the above city, be viewed as most intimately 
connected with its literature. As a poem, it possesses 
great powers of satire and ridicule ; but it is also di- 
vested of personality and grossness. As a proof of 
its merit, it has lost none of its effect ; and the wit 
and humour it contains, respecting the amusements, 
&c. is as highly admired at the present day as when 
it first made its appe ranee ; (and of which we have 
availed ourselves in making several extracts to illus- 
trate our Walks through Bath.) Several other 
poems were also published by Mr. Anstey ; but not 
of equal celebrity with his New Bath Guide. This 
gentleman died at the advanced age of eighty, at Chip- 
penham, in 1805. 

As natives, and connected with the musical his- 
tory and literature of Bath, the family of the Lin- 
leys are fully entitled to the most honourable men- 
tion : and who, it has been observed, u were no 
less distinguished by the private and social virtues, 
than by originality of reciprocal genius, and high pro- 
fessional excellence.*' Talents of a superior order 
were inherent throughout the above family ; and no 
female, it appears, ever enjoyed a greater share of 
public attraction, or more eminently deserved it, than 
Miss Elizabeth Linley (afterwards Mrs. Sheridan), 
who was born in Bath in 1754. The biography of 
this lady is extremely interesting, not only before but 
after her marriage. Her extraordinary vocal powers, 
wit, and elegant manners, added to great personal 
charms, at one period, rendered Mrs. Sheridan the 



LITERARY PERSONS. 297 

admiration of all Bath. On her first appearance at the 
Public Rooms, as a vocal performer, when only twelve 
years of age, she displayed so much genuine taste and 
execution, and her tones were so truly melodious and 
fascinating, that she obtained the appellation of the 
" Syren/' which, in the short space of two or three 
years afterwards, from her finished and peculiarly ex- 
pressive style of singing, was succeeded by that of 
the w Angel!" Hosts of admirers were in her train; 
but Mr. Walter Long, an old bachelor, possessing a 
property of upwards of two hundred thousand pounds, 
made serious overtures of marriage to her father, 
which proposals, notwithstanding the great disparage- 
ment of years, were accepted ; but the lady, it ap- 
pears, was always averse to such an union. The 
dresses were however made, and the day appointed 
for the nuptials; but owing to some circumstances 
the match was broke off, and the matter of such re- 
fusal submitted to an arbitration, when it was agreed, 
that Mr. Long should pay one thousand pounds, as a 
compensation for the loss her father had sustained in 
her absence from the public Concerts. The above 
large property has since descended to Mrs. Wellesley 
Pole Long. 

This occurrence occasioned a great deal of chit-chat 
in the fashionable world, and it also afforded Mr. 
Foote an opportunity of introducing Mrs. Sheridan, 
in a piece written by him, called the " Maid ofBathJ* 
as Miss Linnet. This comedy was performed at the 
Haymarket-Theatre; and the prologue was from the 
pen of Mr. Garrick. It, however, did not in the 
slightest degree injure the reputation of Mrs. She- 
ridan. 

Mr. Charles Francis Sheridan endeavoured now to 



298 LITERARY PERSONS. 

procure her hand ; but who was at length compelled to 
relinquish his pretensions in favour of his brother, 
(Richard Brinsley,) to whom the lady had given the 
preference. The warmth and rapture of the lover 
cannot be better seen than in the following lines : — 

Mark'd you her eyes of heavenly blue ; 
Mark'd you her cheeks of roseate hue ; 
Those eyes in liquid circles moving ; 
Those cheeks abash'd at man's approving; 
The one love's arrows darting round, 
The other blushing at the wound. 

In consequence of an objection being made to their 
marriage by the parents of both parties, Mr. Sheridan 
induced the object of his attachment to elope with 
him to the continent ; but finding there was an ob- 
stacle to their union in France, he without delay 
placed her as a boarder in a convent. It was not 
long before she returned to England with her father. 
From this flight various reports got into circulation, 
and the Bath Herald contained some strictures upon 
the conduct of the fugitives. The calumny was at 
length traced to Mr. Matthews, a most intimate friend 
of the Lady and of Mr. Sheridan. A most desperate 
duel in consequence took place between them in a 
Coffee-house, in Bedford-Street, Covent-Garden, when 
Matthews was compelled to beg his life, and sign a 
confession of the falsehoods which he had propagated. 
This acknowledgment was also published in the Bath 
Herald. 

This was a great triumph to Mr. Sheridan ; but 
Matthews, stung with resentment in being exiled, as 
it were, from all the fashionable parties at Bath, 
in which he was a leader, demanded another meet- 



LITERARY PERSONS. 299 

ing ; and, contrary to the laws of honour, and the 
remonstrances of his friends, Mr. Sheridan met the 
traducer on Kingsdown, near Bath, at four o'clock in 
the morning. Pistols were exchanged without effect. 
The attack then commenced with swords — several 
severe wounds were inflicted — and in falling to the 
ground both of their swords were broken. Matthews 
being uppermost, exultingly demanded of Sheridan to 
beg his life, when the latter boldly replied, " he 
scorned it." They mangled each other in this situa- 
tion till both were exhausted from the loss of blood, 
and in a dying state. The point of Matthews's 
sword was found sticking in the cheek and ear of Mr. 
Sheridan. There is no parallel to this desperate duel, 
except the one related in the Guardian, in the reign of 
James I. between Lord Bruce and Sir Edward Sack- 
ville. 

On the recovery of Mr. Sheridan he was rewarded 
with the hand of the object of his affections, and they 
were married in April, 1773, he being only twenty-two 
years of age, and the lady nineteen. In consequence 
of the pride of Mr. Sheridan refusing to let his wife 
sing at the Concerts, (by which she might have rea- 
lized some thousands a-year) necessity frequently stared 
them in the face ; and it appears, one of his principal 
resources was that of writing for the fugitive publica- 
tions of the day, in which he was materially assisted 
by his amiable partner. And this distinguished Se- 
nator has often since acknowledged, that he and Mrs. 
Siifridan must frequently have gone without a dinner, 
had it not been for the exercise of their pens. 

In addition to the talents of Mrs. Sheridan as a 
a vocal performer, she composed the music for the 
pantomime of Robinson Crusoe, and several other 



300 LITERARY PERSONS. 

pieces. The song of " When 'tis Night, and the Mid- 
watch is come/' written by Mr. Sheridan, was also 
set to music by this most accomplished female : and 
the following production, written on the death of her 
brother Thomas, the celebrated composer and per- 
former on the violin, evinces her great poetical taste : — 
It was addressed to his violin : — 

Sweet instrument, for him I mourn, 

Tuneful companion of my Lycid's hours, 

How liest thou, neglected and forlorn ! 

What skilful hand shall now call forth thy powers. 

Ah ! none like his can reach those liquid notes, 
So soft, so sweet, so eloquently clear ; 

To* live beyond the touch, and gently float 
In dying modulations on the ear ! 

Thus o'er my Lycid's lyre as I complain'd, 

And kiss'd the strings where he was wont to play ; 

While yet in pensive sadness I remain'd, 

Methought it sigh'd, amd sighing seem'd to say : 

" Ah me ! forlorn, forsaken, now no more 
Shall fame and just applause around me wait ; 

No power my gentle master can restore, 
And I, alas ! will share his hapless fate. 

" Fled is that spirit, chill'd that youthful fire, 

Which taught those strains with harmony replete ; 

And cold that hand which only can inspire 
My senseless form to utter sounds so sweet. 

** Those sounds melodious ue'er again shall please , 
No tuneful strain from me shall ever flow, 

Save o'er my trembling strings a sighing breeze 
To call one sad, soft note of tender woe. 



LITERARY PERSONS. 301 

" Else, ah ! for ever mute let me remain, 
Unstrung, untun'd, forgotten let me be; 

Guard me from curious eye, and touch profane, 
And let me rest in mournful sympathy. 

" One fate with thee, dear master, let me share ; 

Like thee in silent darkness let me lie ; 
My fame without thee is not worth my care, 

With thee alone it liv'd, with thee shall die!" 

Also upon the death of her sister Maria, who ex- 
pired at Bath, in September, 1784, while singing " I 
know that my Redeemer liveth :' 7 Mrs. Sheridan again 
exercised her poetical talents in some delightful verses 
upon the occasion. In the 38th year of her age, in 
June, 1792, this amiable female died, at Clifton, of a 
consumption of the lungs, and was interred in the 
Cathedral at Wells. 

The person of Mrs. Sheridan was considered to 
possess so much beauty and symmetry, that Sir Joshua 
Reynolds painted her portrait in the character of 
Saint Cecilia ; but it is much regretted by a recent 
biographer,* that, among the numerous admirers and 
particular companions of Mrs. Sheridan, not one 
was found to strike the mournful strings at her obse- 
quies, or to suspend the votive wreath upon her tomb : 
and the only recorded tribute of respect paid to her 
memory, consisted in a short eulogium, by an eminent 
physician, inserted in a respectable literary Journal, 
concluding with the following classical inscription, no 
less felicitous in its description of the virtues of one 
sister than in its allusion to the peculiar circum- 
stances attending the death of another. 

* Watkins. 

Dd 



302 LITERARY PERSONS. 

In Obitum 
DOM. ELIZ. SHERIDAN. 

Forma, voce, atque ingenio, inter ornatis omatissimae, ab 
ilia irao amores ita suspiret amicus. Eheu ! eheu ! lugeant 
mortales ! Eja vero gaudeunt Coelestis, Dulcis ad amplexus, 
Sociens jam Citharae melos, redit pergrata, en iterum soror ; 
suaviusque nilmanet Hosannis. 

Richard Tickell, Esq. who likewise married Miss 
Mary Linley, was also a native of Bath. He was a 
gentleman of small property ; but, from the gaiety of 
his disposition, the whole of it was squandered away 
at a very early period of his life. Mr. Tickell had 
received a most excellent education, and was reared to 
the Bar ; and, like his brother-in-law, (the late Richard 
Brinsley Sheridan, Esq.) he was a man of consider- 
able wit and talent ; but unfortunately preferred trust- 
ing to his genius for a livelihood, rather than following 
the more substantial occupation of his profession. His 
connexion with the booksellers, at one time, was a 
principal means of his support ; and the American 
war also afforded Mr. Tickell an opportunity of ex- 
ercising his abilities in favour of the administration of 
Lord North, which, being noticed by that nobleman's 
private secretary, ultimately procured him a pension 
of o£200 per annum, and a place in the Stamp-Office. 
This favourable turn in his affairs came most oppor- 
tunely for him to perform an honourable act towards 
a female, by whom he had had several illegitimate 
children, and from which connexion his pecuniary con- 
cerns were considerably embarrassed. The principal 
part of the above pension he settled upon the female 
in question, in order to bring up that family. Miss 
Mary Linley soon afterwards became his wife; from 
which marriage three children were the issue ; and 



LITERARY PERSONS. 303 

notwithstanding the thoughtlessness of his disposition, 
this union was distinguished for the greatest harmony 
and good-nature towards each other; but she died, in 
the flower of her youth, and was interred in the Cathe- 
dral at Wells. In 1799, Mr. Tickell wrote a pam- 
phlet, intituled " Anticipation," in support of the then 
existing Administration ; and which claimed so much 
the attention of Government, that he was rewarded 
with the situation of one of the Commissioners of the 
Stamp Duties, at a salary of of500 a year. The above 
pamphlet was spoken of at the time as possessing 
great ability ; and his gratitude taught him to follow it 
up with several other similar productions, but which 
did not display an equal proportion of talent. In 1781, 
Mr. Tickell turned his attention towards the stage, 
and produced a comic opera, in three acts, called " The 
Carnival of Venice ; v but notwithstanding the splendor 
of its scenic decorations, and assisted by the charming 
music of the Linleys, it scarcely dragged out an exist- 
ence during the season. Allan Ramsey's " Gentle 
Shepherd" was also adapted to the English stage by Mr. 
Tickell; but its principal claim to attraction consisted 
in the delightful Scotch airs which were added to it 
by his father-in-law. In other respects it was consi- 
dered defective, no symmetry having been preserved 
in cutting down the various characters. A few Poems, 
published by Mr. Tickell, were much admired for 
their taste and harmony of composition; and he was 
also a contributor to the " Probationary Odes," a po- 
litical satire. It is said of Mr. T. that he was not 
without vanity, but possessed ready wit ; thoughtless 
and extravagant, yet good-natured, generous, and 
feeling; and his manners were of the most interesting 
and pleasing description. In a fit of despondency, he 



304 LITERARY PERSONS. 

unhappily threw himself out of a window at Hampton 
Court Palace, and was killed upon the spot, in No- 
vember, 1793. Mr. Tickell was married to a second 
wife, (Miss Leigh,) and who, with her children, was 
left nearly destitute of support ; but, by the exertion and 
humanity of her friends the above children, it appears, 
have since been handsomely provided for. 

Mr. and Mrs. afterwards Sir John and Lady 
Miller, had purchased in Italy, in their expedition 
thither, (of which an account was afterwards publish- 
ed in a series of letters by Lady M.) an antique vase, 
dug up, in the year 1759, at Frescati. This was 
brought home, and placed in their villa at Batheaston, 
which was now converted into the temple of Apollo ; 
Mrs. Miller being the high-priestess, and the vase the 
shrine of the deity. A general invitation was then issued 
to all the sons and daughters of fashion of the neigh- 
bouring city, u the mob of gentlemen who wrote with 
ease," and the still more numerous mob, who fancied 
they could write, to a weekly dies festus, to be held 
every Friday, (in the first instance, and afterwards 
Thursday,) at Batheaston Villa. Here the company 
were ushered into a room, where they found the old 
Etruscan vase placed upon a modern altar, and de- 
corated with sprigs of laurel; and as each gentleman 
or lady passed the venerable relic, an offering was 
made of some original composition in verse ; at first, 
merely of what the French term bouts rimts, or rhym- 
ing terminations, which had been filled up by the can- 
didate for poetical fame; but afterwards of short per- 
formances on particular subjects, given out the pre- 
ceding week. The assembly having all contributed 
their morgeaux, Mr. Miller selected a lady from the 
circle, who, dipping her fair hand into the vase, drew 



LITERARY PERSONS. #05 

the papers out, far hazard, as they occurred, and gave 
them to a gentleman to read aloud. This process being 
concluded, a select committee were named to deter- 
mine upon the merits of the pieces, and adjudge the 
prizes; these retired into an adjoining room, and fixed 
upon the four best productions — the blushing authors 
of which, when they had identified their property by 
naming their private signatures, were presented by the 
high-priestess, Mrs. Miller, with a fillet of myrtle, and 
crowned amidst the plaudits of the company. The 
most sensible feature of the gala, a genteel collation, 
concluded the business. This attic pastime continued 
for several years ; till the wicked wit of an unknown 
wag having contaminated the purity of the urn by some 
licentious and satyrical compositions, to the extreme 
horror of the ladies assembled to hear the productions 
recited, and the equal chagrin of the host and hostess, 
who expected the usual weekly tribute of adulatory 
compliment, the sacred vessel was thenceforth closed, 
and the meetings were discontinued for ever. The 
world, however, is in possession of two small volumes 
of the effusions which occasionally issued from it.* 

John Palmer, Esq. The existence of a character 
so long distinguished by its various excellencies, in 
public and private life, ought not on its ceasing to be 
passed over amidst the ordinary records of mortality. 
Endowed with a mind naturally enlightened, cultivated 
by education, and improved by a general intercourse 
with the world, Mr. Palmer soon became the foun- 
der of a personal reputation and fortune, which talents 
well directed, and perseverance inflexible, can only 
command. The important reformation in the esta- 
blishment of the Post Office by mail coaches, &c. to 

* Warner. 

dd 2 



306 LITERARY PERSONS. 

which the United Kingdom stands so highly indebted 
for the present facilities of its correspondence, and the 
great increase of the public revenue, is too generally 
impressed on the grateful feelings of the country to 
require any recital. While the public were enjoying 
the benefits of his meritorious labours, he had to con- 
tend (till within these few years) for a final arrange- 
ment with Government, which at length, through le- 
gislative interference, was settled by the payment to 
him of ^50,000, and an annuity for his life of ofSOOO 
per annum. 

The private life of Mr. Palmer was early marked 
by a display of abilities, and an amiableness of man- 
ners, which afforded him an easy introduction to the 
best society. . The Chancellor, Lord Camden, the 
Marquis of Lansdowne, Lord Mansfield, Mr. Garrick, 
&c. &c. were amongst those who sought his friendship. 
In his attachments, he was warm and zealous ; in his 
general dealings with mankind, liberal and benevolent. 
He was returned to several Parliaments by his native 
city (Bath), an honour which, on his retiring, de- 
volved on his son, Colonel Palmer, one of its present 
representatives. He has left a numerous train of 
friends behind him, (many of them of high distinction,) 
impressed with one general sentiment of regret for the 
loss of talents so useful, and private worth so rare. 

William Dimond, Esq. son of the late proprietor 
of the Bath Theatre. This gentleman is a native of 
the above city, and received his education under Dr. 
Morgan. He afterwards entered himself as a student 
in the Inner Temple; but his mind seems to have 
been more occupied in producing pieces for the Thea- 
tres than in poring over the dry study of the law. 
His productions, although light, have been extremely 



LITERARY PERSONS. 307 

successful; several of them having had a long run: 
the Hunter of the Alps, in particular, has been much 
admired. The following is a list of his works : 

Petrarcal Sonnets and Miscellaneous Poems, 8vo. 1800. Sea-side 
Story, a dramatic opera, 8vo. 1801. The Hero of the North, an his- 
torical play, 1803. The Hunter of the Alps, a drama, 1804. Youth, 
Love, and Folly, a comic opera, 1805. Adrian and Orrilla, a play, 
1806. The Young Hessian, an operatic piece, 1807. The Foundling 
of the Forest, a play, 1809- The Doubtful Son, a play, 1810. The 
Peasant Boy, an opera, 181 i. The Royal Oak, an historical play, 1311 . 
The JEthiop, a romantic play, 1813. The Bride of Abydos, 1818. 

The Rev. Richard Warner, curate of St. James's 
Parish, at Bath, and rector of Great Chatfield, Wilts, 
is a native of Lymington, in Hampshire ; but from his 
long residence in the above city, where he has distin- 
guished himself with so much ability in his preaching ; 
the zeal and industry he has also displayed in extend- 
ing the various charitable institutions ; and his volu- 
minous History of Bath ; its Antiquities, &c. that this 
work must appear incomplete, without an honourable 
mention of the exertions of this reverend gentleman 
towards rendering the City of Bath even more attrac- 
tive. The following is a list of his numerous publica- 
tions : 

Hampshire, extracted from the Doomsday Book, with a transla- 
tion, 4to. 1789. A Companion in a Tour round Lymington, 8vo. 
1790. An Attempt to ascertain the Situation of the Ancient Clausen- 
turn, 8vo. 1792. Topographical Remarks relating to the South 
Western Parts of Hampshire, with a descriptive Poem, 2 vols. 8vo. 
1793. The History of the Isle of Wight, Military, Ecclesiastical, Civil, 
and Natural, 8vo. 1795. Collections for the History of Hampshire and 
the Bishopric of Winchester, 6 vol. 8vo. An Illustration of the Roman 
Antiquities discovered at Bath, 4to. 1797. A Walk through Wales, 
8vo. 1798. A second Walk through Wales, 8vo. 1799. A Walk through 
some of the Western Counties of England, 8vo. 1800. The History of 
Bath, 4to. 1801. Excursions from Bath, 8vo. 1801. A Tour through 
the Northern Counties of England, and the Borders of Scotland, 
2 vols. 8vo. 1802. An Historical and Descriptive Account of Bath and 
its Environs, l2mo. 1802. Practical Discourses, 2 vol. 1803. War 



808 LITERARY PERSONS. 

inconsistent with Christianity, a Fast Sermon, 8vo. 1804. The En- 
glish Diatessaron, or the History of Christ from the Compounded 
Texts of the Four Evangelists, 8vo. 1804. National Blessings Reasons 
for Religious Gratitude, a Thanksgiving Sermon, 8vo. 1805. The 
Overflowings of Ungodliness, a Sermon, 8vo. 1806. The Book of 
Common Prayer, together with the Psalter, with an Introduction, 
8vo. 1806. Pleasure, its Tendency to deprave the Understanding, the 
Heart, and the Religious Principles, a Fast Sermon, 8vo. 1807. A 
Tour through Cornwall, 8vo. 1809. Scripture Characters, in a Series 
of Sermons, 2 vols. l2mo. 1810. The Duties of the Clergy, a Sermon 
preached at the Visitation of the Archdeacon, 8vo. 1810. New Guide 
through Bath, i2mo. 1812. The Claims of the British and Foreign 
Bible Society to the Support of the Public, 8vo. 1812. The Spiritual 
Danger of an Opposition to the Bible Society, 1812. Excursions 
through Wiltshire, 8vo. — Walks through Somersetshire, 8vo. 

Miss Warner, daughter of the above clergyman, 
has written a novel, intituled Herbert Lodge, 3 vol. 
12mo, 1810. This young lady has also edited 3 vol. 
of Original Letters. 

Dr. Harrington was not only celebrated as an 
eminent physician at Bath, but also distinguished for 
his delightful productions in poetry and music. The 
doctor was a native of Kelston, in Somersetshire, and 
born in 1727; and received his education in his father's 
house, under the tuition of the late Rev. Dr. Fothergill, 
and at Queen's College, Oxford, of which he was en- 
tered in 1745. In 1753 he commenced his profession 
at Wells, but soon removed his practice to Bath, 
where he continued to reside till his death. Dr. Har- 
rington served the office of mayor, and continued a 
magistrate for many years. He had also the honour of 
being the founder of the Harmonic Society at Bath ; 
and as a composer, it is said, he was second to no 
modern English musician. His style of compositio 
not only evinced great variety of talent, but was ex- 
cellent in every department; and however dignified 
and impressive in the grand, solemn, and pathetic, 



LITERARY PERSONS. 309 

he was equally great in the lively, gay, and ridiculous. 
His serious trios were beautiful ; and when he was up- 
wards of seventy years of age, he composed that cele- 
brated piece of sacred music, so universally admired 
by the lovers of harmony for three voices, called the 
Passioji of Christ, taken from the words of the Evan- 
gelist, Eloi, Eloi, &c. and but a very short time pre- 
vious to his decease, although suffering under a severe 
attack of the gout, he went to the rooms to hear it 
sung by Braham. The justice done by this incompa- 
rable singer to the Doctor's music affected his feelings 
so strongly, that tears only relieved him. Many beau- 
tiful fugitive productions have issued from his pen. 
He was also the author of How sweet in the Woodlands ; 
Go, false Damon, &c. &c. In short, for upwards of 
fifty years he was the avowed patron of music at 
Bath, and looked up to as the principal leader in all 
the musical circles. His eldest son, Sir Edward, who 
was knighted on presenting an address to the King, in 
his official capacity of mayor of his native city, died 
a few years before him. The following is a list of his 
works : — 

Nugae Antiquae, being a Miscellaneous Collection of Original Papers, 
in prose and verse, written (by his ancestors and correspondents) in 
the reigns of Hen. VIII. Edw. VI. Mary, Eliz. and James I. 8vo. 
1769, 2d edit. 2 vol. 1775. The Geometrical Analogy of the Doctrine 
of the Trinity consonant to Human Reason, 1806, 4to. 

Caleb Hillier Parry, M.D. F.R.S. one of the 
Physicians of the General Hospital at Bath, and also 
a Member of the Royal College of Physicians, London. 
He has published, 

An Inquiry into the Symptoms and Causes of the Syncope Angi- 
nosa, commonly called Angina Pectoris, 8vo. 1799. Facts and Ob- 
servations tending to show the Practicability and Advantage of pro- 
ducing in the British Isles Clothing Wool equal to that of Spain 5 



310 LITERARY PERSONS. 

together with some Hints towards the Management of fine-woolled 
Sheep, 4to. 1800. 

Dr. Parry, besides the above works, has also con- 
tributed various Papers in the Bath Agricultural So- 
ciety's Collections, the Memoirs of the Medical 
Society of London, and other Miscellaneous Produc- 
tions. 

Charles Henry Parry, M.D. F.R.S. and 
B.C.J, of St. Edmund's Hall, Oxford; also Member 
of the Physical Society at Gottingen. This gentleman 
is a native of Bath, and son of the preceding physi- 
cian. His works are, 

De Graecarum atque Romanarum Religionum ad mores formandos 
vi et effieacia Commentatio. In concert, ciyium Acad. Georgise Au- 
gusts, die iv. Jun. 1789. ab ord. Ampliss. Philosoph. loco secundo 
victrix pronunciata. Gotting. 4to. 1799. G. C. Reich on Fever and 
its Treatment in general, translated into English, 8vo. 1801. Cases of 
Tetanus and Rabies Contagioso, or Canine Hydrophobia, 8vo. 1814. 

In the year 1800 a Public Library was esta- 
blished, principally intended to include only books of 
science, and works of great expense ; so as not to in- 
terfere with the Circulating Libraries. 

The Philosophical and Literary Institution 
was established in 1799. See page 104. No works, 
it appears, have been published by this Society. 

There are always on sale, extensive and valuable 
collections of books in every department of literature 
at Bath ; and all the modern publications are to be 
procured with nearly the same ease and facility as in 
London ; the booksellers being of the most respecta- 
ble description. The shops, in general, are capacious 
and elegant. There are also several Printing-Offices 
in Bath. 



COACHES FROM BATH TO LONDON, t^C. 311 

COACHES from the folloicing Inns at BATH to 

LONDON. 

YORK-HOUSE. — Four insides, at 6 o'clock every morning. 

..' The Regent, through Chippenham, Calne, Marl- 
borough, Newbury, and Reading, at a quarter before 3 every 
afternoon. 

WHITE HART. — Four insides, through Newbury and Reading, at 6 
every morning, (ex. Sunday). 

Four insides, in two days, stops at Newbury, at 9 

every morning, (ex. Sunday). 

g Four insides, through Devizes, Marlborough, New- 
bury, and Reading, at 4 every afternoon. 

WHITE LION. — Original Day Coach, through Chippenham, Calne, 
Marlborough, Newbury, and Reading, at 6 every morning, 

Four insides, by the same road, at 2 every aftern. 

LAMB. — Royal Mail, (Exeter,) through Devizes, at 5 every evening. 

Royal Mail, (Bristol,) through Chippenham, about 25 mi- 
nutes past 5 every evening. 

GREYHOUND. — A Coach, (ex. Sunday,) at 4 every afternoon. 

CASTLE.— A coach, at half past 6 every morning. 

FROMONT and Co.— The Regulator, at half past 6 every morning. 

A Coach, through Milksham, Devizes, and 

Marlborough, at half past 12 every day. 

A Coach, through Chippenham, Calne, and 

Marlborough, at a quarter before 3 every afternoon. 

To BRISTOL, CLIFTON, and WESTON SUPER- 
MARE. 

YORK-HOUSE. — At half past 8 and 9 every morning (ex. Sunday) 

to Bristol. 
WHITE HART. — At 8 and 10 in the morning, and at 3 and 4 in the 

afternoon, to Bristol. 
To Clifton, (ex. Sunday,) at 10 in the morning, and 

3 in the afternoon. 
WHITE LION.— At a quarter before 9, and at 11 every morning, to 

Bristol. 

At l every day (ex. Sunday) to Bristol. 

At 3, 4, and 5 every afternoon to Bristol. 

, At 7 every evening (ex. Sunday) to Bristol. 

LAMB. — A Mail to Bristol* where it meets the Welsh Mail, at half 

past 9 every morning. 

A Coach to Bristol at 11 every morning. 

At a quarter before 3 every afternoon to Clifton. 

At 7 every evening to Bristol. 

GREYHOUND.— At half past 3 every afternoon (ex. Sunday) to 

Bristol and Clifton. 



312 COACHES FROM BATH TO OXFORD, &C. 

GREYHOUND. — At half past 5 and at 7 every evening to Bristol and 

Clifton. 
FROMONT and Co.— -At half past 8 and 9 every morning, at 12 every 

day, and at 8 every evening, to Bristol. 
CASTLE.— At 9 every morning (ex. Sunday) to Bristol. 
At 12 every day, (ex. Sunday,) when it goes at 6 in the 

evening to Bristol. 

At 6 every evening (ex. Sunday) to Bristol. 

At 8 every evening (ex. Sunday) to Bristol. Alternately 

from the Christopher. 
GOLDEN LION. — At 8, 9, and 12 every morning ; at half past I, at 

3, 6, and 7, every afternoon to Bristol. 
At a quarter before 4 every afternoon to Bristol 

and Clifton. 
A Coach, at 12 every Monday, Wednesday, and 

Saturday morning to Weston-Super-Mare. 
CHRISTOPHER.— At 4 every afternoon to Bristol. 
. ANGEL. — The Patent Coach, built on Capt. Wyke's plan for safety, 

at 9 every morning, to Bristol. 

To OXFORD, Sfc. 

YORK HOUSE.— Through Tetbury, Cirencester, &c. at 9 every Tues- 
day, Thursday, and Saturday morning. 

WHITE HART.— A Mail to Oxford, by the same road, at half past 
9 every morning. 

To WARMINSTER, SHAFTESBURY, POOLE, 
SALISBURY, SOUTHAMPTON, PORTSMOUTH, 

GOSPORT, 4c 

WHITE HART.— A Mail to Portsmouth, through Salisbury and 
Southampton, at 5 every afternoon. 

A Coach to Southampton, at 9 on Monday, Wed- 
nesday, and Friday mornings. 

To Gosport, through Salisbury, Ramsey, and 

Southampton, at 7 on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morn. 

GREYHOUND.— To Poole, through Warminster, Shaftesbury, 
Blandford, and Wimbourne, at a quarter before 10 every 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning. 

To FROME, WEYMOUTH, %c. 

YORK-HOUSE.— Toms's Coach to Weymouth, at 7 on Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday mornings. 

WHITE HART.— To Weymouth, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Satur- 
day mornings, at 7. 

,. A Coach to Frome, at 7 on Tuesday and Friday 

evenings. 



COACHES FROM BATH WESTWARD, &C. 313 

CASTLE — To Trowbridge, at 6 every evening, (ex. Sunday). 
FROMOXTand Co.— A Coach to Bradford and Trowbridge, at 6 
every evening, (ex. Sunday). 

COACHES WESTWARD. 

YORK-HOUSE.— The Subscription Coach to Exeter, through Shep- 
ton Mallet, Ilchester, Ilminster, and Honiton, where it meets 
the Sidmouth Coaches, at 8 every morning. 

WHITE HART.— To Exeter, at 8 every morning, (ex. Sunday,) 
where it meets the Falmouth and Plymouth Coaches. 

LAMB.— A Mail through Taunton, Bridgewater, &c. to Exeter, Ply- 
mouth, and Falmouth, at 10 every morning. 

GOLDEX LI OX.— A Coach to Exeter, through Wells, Somerton, 
Langport, Ilminster, Chard, Axminster, Lyme, Honiton, and 
Sidmouth, at 6 in the morning, on Monday, Wednesday, and 
Saturday. 

FROMOXT and Co.— To Falmouth, through Bridgewater, Taunton, 
Tiverton, Exeter, Plymouth, &c. at half past 8 every morning. 

To South Moltonand Barnstaple, at half past 

8 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning. 

NORTHWARD. 

YORK-HOUSE.-— A Coach to Birmingham, by the new road, through 

Evesham and Alcester, where it meets all the Xorth Country 

Coaches, at a quarter before 7 on Monday, Wednesday, and 

Friday mornings. 
To Leamington and Warwick, through Stratford 

on Avon, at a quarter before 7 also on Monday, Wednesday, 

and Friday mornings. 
To Cheltenham, through Redborough and Stroud, 

at a quarter before 7 on the above mornings. 
To Cheltenham, through Gloucester, at half past 

S on Tuesday, Thursday, and SaUirday mornings. 
To Shrewsbury and Holyhead, at a quarter past 8 

on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings. 
WHITE HART.— A Coach, at 6 every morning to Birmingham, 

where it meets the Manchester, Liverpool, and all the Xorth 

Country Coaches. 
, To Cheltenham, through Gloucester, at 6 every 

Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday; and at 9 every Monday, 

Wednesday, and Friday morning. 
To Holyhead, through Gloucester, Worcester, 

and Shrewsbury, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 9. 

CARAVANS, 4c. 

That arrive in the course of the week at the following Inns : GEORGE, 
IValcot- Street; SARACEN'S HEAD, Broad- Street ; THREE 
CUPS, Northgate- Street; XEW IXX, Horse- Street ; BELL, 
IValcot- Street; FULL MOON, Old Bridge; GOLDEX LI OX, 
Horse- Street. 

E e 



314 CARAVANS, &C. TO AND FROM BATH. 



On the BRISTOL ROAD. 

THREE CUPS. — From Britton, Freeman's Cart arrives on Wednes- 
day and Saturday, and returns the same evenings. 

From KeynsMm, Freeman's Cart, on Monday and 

Thursday, and returns the same days. 

PACK-HORSE.— Hewitt's Caravan goes to Bristol on Monday, 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and returns on the same 
days. 

On the CHIPPENHAM ROAD. 

BELL.— From Malmesbury, Spencer's Cart arrives eveiy Friday 
evening, and returns on Saturday morning. 

Taylor's Cart from Milksham, on Wednesday and Satur- 
day, and returns the same days. 

From Corsham, Porter's Cart arrives on Wednesday and 

Saturday, and returns on the same days. 

THREE CUPS.— From Chippenham, Day's Caravan arrives on Wed- 
nesday and Saturday, and returns the same days. 

Pritchard's Cart, from Corsham, on Wednesday 

and Saturday mornings, and returns the same evenings. 

GEORGE.— From Nettleton, Strange, on Wednesday and Friday. 

Knight's Cart, from En ford, arrives on Wednesday, and 

returns the same day. 

PELICAN.-— Bailey's Caravan, from Chippenham, on Wednesday 
and Saturday, and returns the same days. 

PACK-HORSE.— From Lacock, Branes's Cart arrives on Wednes- 
day and Saturday, and returns the same days. 

Dickman's Cart, from Castlecombe, arrives on 

Saturday, and returns the same day. 

From Corsham, Smith's Cart, arrives Wednesday 

and Saturday, and returns the same evenings. 

Salter's Cart, from Chippenham, arrives Monday, 

Wednesday, and Saturday, and returns the same evenings. 

On the WELLS ROAD. 

"NEW INN.— From Glastonbury, Wells, &c. Browning's Caravan 
arrives on Wednesday, and returns on Thursday morning. 

GOLDEN LION.— Grandfield's Light Cart from Wellington, Mine- 
head, and Dunster, arrives on Friday, and returns on Monday 
through Bristol and Cross to the same places. 

THREE CUPS.— From Curry-Rivell, through Wells, Somerton, and 
Langport, Virgin's Caravan arrives at 2 on Thursday, and re- 
turns on Friday morning at 8. 

FULL MOON.— Gingeli's Caravan from Shepton, arrives on Tuesday 
and Friday evenings, and returns the following days. 

PACK HORSE — From Wedmore and adjacent places, Chapman's 
Cart arrives on Saturday, and returns the same day. 



CARAVANS, &C. TO AND FROM BATH. 315 



On the GLOUCESTER ROAD. 

GEORGE.— From Wotton-under-edsre, Blizzards Cart arrives on 
Wednesday evening, and returns on Thursday morning. 

Wiltshire's Cart from Tarmarton, arrives Wednesday 

and Saturday, and returns the same days. 

THREE CUPS.— From Malmsbury, Tetbury, Cirencester, Glouces- 
ter, and Cheltenham, Arnold's Caravan arrives on Tuesday 
evening, and returns in the evening on Wednesday. 

BELL. ---White's Cart from Tarmarton, arrives and returns on Tues- 
day. 

... From Acton-Turvill, Brown's Cart, arrives and returns on 

Saturday . 

PELICAN.— Quarrington's Caravan from Gloucester, Rodborough, 
&c. arrives on Tuesday evening, and reUirns on Wednesday 
morning. 

On the DEVIZES ROAD. 

THREE CUPS. — Knott's Cart, from Lacock, arrives Wednesday 
and Saturday, and returns on the same evenings. 

From Devizes, Giddon's Cart arrives on Friday 

and returns on Saturday. 

, Barett's Light Cart from Storndon arrives on 

Monday, and returns on Tuesday morning. 

On the TROWBRIDGE, FROME, WARMINSTER, 
WINCANTON, and WEYMOUTH ROADS. 

GOLDEN LION.— From Weymouth, Dorchester, Sherborne, Win- 
canton, &c. through Frome, Wadman's Light Cart arrives on 
Thursday, and returns on Saturday. 

Read's Caravan from Berkington, arrives on Tues- 
day and Saturday, and returns on the same days. 

From Frome, Freeman's Cart arrives every Tues- 
day, Thursday, and Saturday, and returns the same evenings. 

White's Caravan from Shaftesbury, Hindon, 

Blandford, Poole, &c. arrives on Tuesday night, and returns 
on Wednesday afternoon. 

From Warminster, Warren's Caravan arrives 

every Wednesday and Saturday, and returns on the same days. 

Lucas's Caravan from Bradford and Trowbridge, 

arrives every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and returns on 
the same days. 

From Westbury, Trowbridge, and Bradford, 

Philip's Light Cart arrives every Monday and Saturday at 1, and 
returns the same evening at 4. 

Turner's Caravan, from Somerset, Largeport, II- 

minster, Chard, and Lyme, arrives every Tuesday, and returns 
the same morning. 



316 CARAVANS, &C. TO AND FROM BATH. 

PELICAN— From Yeoval and Wincanton, Shepherd's Caravan ar- 
rives every Tuesday, and returns every Thursday. 

Hooper's Light Cart from Trowbridge, arrives every 

Tuesday and Thursday, and returns on Wednesday and Sa- 
turday. 

PACK-HORSE. --From Westbury, through Warminster, Salisbury, 
&c. Applegate's Light Cart arrives on Monday, Wednesday, 
and Friday, and returns the following mornings. 

Smith's Cart from Urchfont, arrives on Friday, 

and returns on Saturday. 

NEW INN.— From Frome, Holloway's Light Cart arrives on Wed- 
nesday and Friday, and returns on the same evenings. 

Ribbick's Light Cart from Hindon, arrives on Wed- 
nesday, and returns on Thursday. 

From Cricklade, through Warminster, &c. Bright's 

Light Cart arrives on Saturday, and returns the same day. 

West's Light Cart, from Frome, arrives on Wednesday, 

and returns the same day. 

FULL MOON.— Herridge's Caravan, from Warminster, arrives on 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and returns on the same 
days. 

From Deptford, Cliffs Caravan arrives and returns 

on Saturday. 

Miles's Caravan from Shuten, ai rives on Friday, 

and returns the next day. 

From Warminster, Parry's Caravan arrives on 

Saturday, and returns the same day. 

THREE CUPS.— Deson's Cart, from Bradford, arrives on Wednes- 
day and Saturday, and returns the same evenings. 

BELL. — From Westbury, Townsend's Light Cart arrives on Wed- 
nesday and Saturday, and returns on the same days. 

Lampert's Carl, from IVIere, Dorset, &c. arrives on Friday, 

and returns on the same day, 

GEORGE.— From Stourton, Norris's Cart arrives and returns on 
Saturday. 

WAGGONS. 

SAW-CLOSE.— Symes and Mitchell Fly Waggons set out daily to 
Bristol and London, from their warehouse as above. Offices 
in Bristol, in Peter-Street, and Narrow Wine-Street; and in 
London, at 69, Old Bailey; they also call at the New White 
Horse Cellar, and Black Bear, Piccadilly. 

THREE CUPS, BATH.— E. L. Lye's Fly -Waggons daily from his 
warehouse on Wednesday and Saturday ; and from the Angel 
Inn, Fleet-Market, London, throuesh Warminster to Bath. 
His Warminster, Bristol, Bath, and Salisbury Common Stage 
Waggons, go from the Bunch of Grapes, St. Thomas-Street, 
Bristol, every day in the week, for Warminster, Heytesbury, 
Codford, Hindon, Tisbury, Shaftesbury, &c. call at his Ware- ' 
house, the Three Cups, Northgate-Street, Bath ; and arrive at 
the Warehouse near the Red Lion, Milford-Street, Salisbury, 



WATER CARRIAGE. 317 

every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday evening. Return for 
Bristol the next morning. 

LADY MEAD, WALCOT, No. 10.— Ballinger's Fly : Waggon every 
Monday morning, through Rodbo rough and Gloucester, to the 
Crown Inn, Cheltenham ; leaves Cheltenham on the Wednesday 
following, and returns to Bath early on Thursday. Also a Wag- 
gon to the White Lion, Thomas-Street, Bristol, every Satur- 
day, and returns the same evening. 

SALMON'S OFFICE, CORN-STREET, No. 20.— Smith and Cockey's 
Waggons to Warminster, Salisbury, Southampton, Gosport, 
Portsmouth, and all parts of Hampshire, every Tuesday and 
Friday. 

Thomas Smith and 

Co.'s Fly-Waggons through Amesbury, Andover, and Basing- 
stoke, to the White Horse Inn, Cripplegate, London, every 
Wednesday and Saturday. 

James Hann's Wag- 
gons to Shaftesbury and places adjacent, twice a week, days 
uncertain. 

Original Daily Wag- 
gon, every morning at 8 o'clock, to the Bell Inn, St. Thomas- 
street, Bristol, and to the Hotwells and Clifton, and returns to 
Bath the same evening. 

......; J. G. Ames and Co.'s 

Conveyance, via Gloucester, to their Warehouses, Duke's 
Dock, Liverpool, and Castle-Fields, Manchester, three times 
a week. 

LITTLE CORN-STREET, No. 15.— Wm. Morrish's Daily Waggons 
to the Crab's Well, Temple- Street, Bristol. 

Cruttwell's Fly-Waggons leave 

his Warehouses, in Bath and London, every Saturday at 3, and 
Wednesday evening at 7, and arrive in London and Bath on 
Wednesday and Saturday mornings early. 

Slow Waggons every day, (ex. 

Sunday,) and arrive in London in five days ; return for Bath 
and Bristol the following morning. The Waggons set up at the 
WTiite Swan, Holborn-Bridge, London, and call at the New 
Black Bear, and Old White-Horse Cellar, Piccadilly. All goods 
intended for the Fly -Waggon on Sunday must be brought in 
on Saturday evening by 9. The same Waggons go to and 
from his Warehouse in Charlotte- Street, Queen-Square, 
Bristol. 



WATER CARRIAGE. 

The Kennet and Avon affords a direct communication with London ; 
and Goods are regularly conveyed from the following Ware- 
houses :— 

SALMON'S OFFICE, CORN-STREET, No. 20.— Charles Heale and 
Co.'s Kennet and Avon Canal Barges, to and from the Queen- 
hithe Wharf, Upper Thames-street, London, every week. 

QUAY.— John Salmon to Kennet Wharfi London. 

E e 2 



318 ITINERARY OF THE PRINCIPAL ROADS. 

ST. JAMES'S PARADE.— Euclid, Shaw, and Co. to Bull Wharf, 

London. 
KENNET AND AVON WHARF.— Baker, .to Brooke's Wharf, 

Thames-Street, London. 
Small Parcels are also conveyed by the Newsmen to most of the 

towns, villages, and gentlemen's seats, at reasonable distances, 

in the counties of Somerset, Wilts, and Gloucester. 



ITINERARY of the principal ROADS from BATH. 



To London, through Devizes. 

Bathford ai 

Melksham r 8£ 

Devizes 8 

Marlborough 14 

London described as before .. 74 

107 
To Clifton. 

Twerton 2 

Saltford ; 3 

Keynsham ' 2 

Bnslihgton 3 

Bristol 2 

Clifton 1 

13 

To Bristol, by the Upper Road. 

Kelston 3 

Bitton 3 

Hanham 2i 

Bristol 3 

To Holyhead, through Gloucester, 
Worcester, and Shrewsbury. 

Cross Hands 11 

Petty France 3 

Rodborough 14 

Gloucester lif 

Upton 16 

Worcester 10 

Kidderminster 14 

Bridgnorth 14 

Wenlock 8 

Shrewsbury 12 

Oswestry 18 

Llangollen 12 

Corwen 10 

Kernoige 12 

Bettws 10 

Capel Currig n 

Bangor Ferry 17 

Gwynda 12| 

Holyhead 12| 

23l 
To Cheltenliam. 

Cross Hands 11 

Petty France 3 



Rodborough 18 

Cheltenham J8_ 

44 
To Oxford. 

Petty France 14 

Didmarton 2 

Tetbury 6 

Cirencester 10 

Fairford 7 

Lechlade 3 

Faringdon 9 

Kingston Inn 8 

Oxford _lp_ 

69 
To Birmingham and Derby. 

Worcester 68 

Bromsgrove 13 

Birmingham 13 

Litchfield 16 

Burton-upon-Trent 13 

Derby _U^ 

134 
To Winchester. 

Salisbury 39 

Stockbridge 16 

Winchester 8 

To Portsmouth. 

Botley 68 

Through Fareham to Ports- 
mouth 20 

88~ 
To Brighton. 

Salisbury 39 

Romsey JO 

Botley 13 

Havent (by Fareham) 18 

Chichester 9 

Arundel 10 

The Pad 12 

Brighton S* 

110 
Old Road to Weymouth. 

Radstoke 7 

Cannard's Grave 12 

Ansford Inn 7 



ITINERARY OF THE PRINCIPAL ROADS. 319 



Sherborne 11 

Dorchester 18 

Weymouth 8 

New Road to Weymouth. 

Frome > 13 

Bruton 10 

Sherborne 12 

Dorchester 18 

Weymouth s 

61 

To Southampton, through Salisbury. 

Beckington 10 

Warminster 6 

Hey tesbury 3 

Knboke 1 

Codford 3 

Deptford Inn 3 

Steeple Longford 3 

Stapleford 2 

Newton 2 

Salisbury 6 

Alderbury 4 

White Parish 4 

Romsey 8 

Southampton 8 

63 

To Milford- Haven, by the New 
Passage, Swansea, §c. 

Bristol 12 

New Passage 12t 

Black Rock Inn 3 

Newport I4f 

Cardiff 114 

Cowbridge 12| 

Pyle 12 

Neath 13 

Swansea 9 



Pontarddyllais 9 

Carmarthen 17 

Tavern-spite 16 

Narbeth 4 

Haverfordwest 10 

Milford-Haven 8 

164* 

To Plymouth, throughWelh, Taun- 
ton, and Exeter. 

Radstock 7 

OldDown 6 

Wells 6 

Glastonbury 6 

Piper's Inn 4| 

Bridgewater 10 § 

Taunton 12 

Wellington 5 

Maiden-down 5 

Cullumpton 8 

Bradnitch 3 

Exeter 9 

Chudleigh lo 

Ashburton lo 

Brent 7 

Plymouth.. 16 

12F 
To Truro and Falmouth. 

Exeter . . 84 

Crockton-well 11 

Oakhampton 11 

Lifton 16 

Launceston 4 

Five Lanes' End 8 

Bodmin 13 

Mitchell 15 

Truro 7 

Penryn 9 

Falmouth 2 

180 



Bath has two Fairs, one of which is held on the 
14th of February, and the other on the 10th of 
July. 



INDEX 



Addison, death of, 4. 
Aylesbury, Earl of, 26. 
Albemarle Buildings, 36. 
Antiquities, found, 46. 
Attorneys, 64. 
Attractions of Bath, without 

sameness, 72. 
Abbev-Gate-street, 103. 
Abbey-green, 104. 
Abbey-street, ibid. 
Assembly-Rooms, Kingston, 

Regulations, Terms, &c. 

.114. 
Antiquities, collection of, 133. 
Architecture, fine specimens 

of, 140. 
Alfred -street, 141. 
Ashe, Mr. and Mrs. 151. 
All Saints' Chapel, 178. 
Avon-street, 192. 
Avon, the river, 194. 
Albion Brewery, 196. 
Argyle-buildings, 201. 
Allen's Walk, 213. 
Antique Castle, shell of, 229. 
Aqueduct, the description of, 

230. 
America-buildings, 237. 
Arab's Vale, 271. 



Brighton, contrasted with 
Bath, 2. 

Bath the universal place of 
resort, and the pleasure of 
commencing a journey, 3. 

Brentford, account of, 8. 

Berkeley, Earl of, 16. 

Bushy Park, 17. 



Benham Park, 25. 

Burdett, Sir Francis, 26. 

Bath-Hampton, village of, 96 

Bailbrook Lodge, ibid. 

Beckhampton Inn, 28. 

Box, pretty village of, 31. 

Bath Easton, 32, 247. 

Beaufort-buildings, 35. 

Bedford-street, 36. 

Bruuswick-street, ibid. 

Bladud-buildings, 37. 

Bath, ancient history of, re- 
marks, &c. 40. 

Bladud, King, account of, 41. 

Bath, founded by the Ro- 
mans, 44. 

Bath, modern, its fashionable 
origin, rise and progress,47. 

Bali-Room, when none at 
Bath, 48. 

Bath, Countess of, 54. 

Bath, distins;uished for its 
woollen trade, at one pe- 
riod, 62. 

BoaTding-Houses, 65. 

Bond-street, 76. 

Bond-street-buildings, 77, 

Burton-street, ibid. 

Bath and West of England 
Society, 100. 

Bath and Bath Forum Free 
School, 101. 

Bradley's Buildings, 102. 

Bath Bridge, Old, ibid. 

Bathwick, Old Ruin, 110. 

Butler, a gentleman's servant, 
hung, 137. 

Burlington-street, 139. 

Burlington-place, ibid. 



322 



INDEX. 



Ballance-street, 140. 

Bennet-street, 141. 

Barton-street, 157. 

Beaufort-square, ibid. 

Blue School, 161. 

Bath-lane, 164. 

Baldwin, Mr. Architect, 167. 

Bond-street, New, 172. 

Broad-street, ibid. 

Bath Penitentiary and Lock 
Hospital, 174. 

Bon Ton, what is it? 181. 

Brock-street, 182. 

Belmont-row, ibid. 

Belvidere-House, ibid. 

Barton's Fields, 189. 

Broad Quay, 191. 

Back-street, ibid. 

Bath City Infirmary and Dis- 
pensary, ibid. 

Bimberries,orBlackAlms,ibid 

Bellot's Hospital, Belltree- 
lane, 192. 

Brook's Lock, 195. 

Bath Association for aiding 
the Missions of the United 
Brethren, 199. 

Bridge-street, 201. 

Bridewell, account of, 211. 

By field-buildings, 227. 

Bath, or Freestone, its pro- 
perties, 227. 

Brass Knocker, the, 230. 

Bath-Hampton Church, epi- 
taph, &c„ 233. 

Blathwayte Arms, 238. 

Bath cream-cheese, 239. 

Battle fought at Lansdown, 
ibid. 

Brislington, village of, 270. 

Bristol-stone, its valuable 
properties, 276. 

Brandon Hill, Bristol, fine 
view from it, 283. 

Bristol Bridge, ibid. 

Booksellers, 310, 



Company at Margate, poeti- 
cal description of, 1. 

Cheltenham, its season, 2. 

Cockney leaving London, 4. 

Chiswick-House, 8. 

Child, Mr. the banker, anec- 
dote of, 11. 

Cranford Bridge, 16. 

Clarence, Duke of, 17. 

Colnbrook, village of, 20. 

Colcot Green, 23. 

Craven, Earl of, 25. 

Chernll, distinguished for its 
large white horse, cut out 
of the turf on the hill, by 
Christopher Alsop, anec- 
dotes of, 26. 

Colman, George, Esq. 29. 

Calne, town of, 30. 

Curious custom of the child- 
ren on the road, ibid. 

Chippenham, town of, 31. 

Charter granted to Bath by 
Queen Elizabeth, 47. 

Charter, new one, with an ex- 
tension of privileges, grant- 
ed by Geo. III. ibid. 

Cathedral Church, descrip- 
tion of, 81. 

Cross Bath, 98. 

Corn-street, 101. 

Church, New, Bath wick, 109. 

Catholic Chapel, 137. 

Cottle's Lane, 140. 

Catharine's Place, ibid. 

Circus, description of, ibid. 

Concerts, subscription, terms, 
&c. 151. 

Coal Market, account of, 163J. 

Cheap-street, 166. 

Chatham, Earl of, 168. 

Camden, Earl of, ibid. 

City Balls, 169. 

Court of Requests, &c. 170. 

Corn Market, 173. 

Cornwall-street, ibid. 



INDEX. 



323 



Chatham-row, 174. 

Camden-street, 175. 

Cavendish-crescent, 179. 

Cavendish-place, ibid. 

Crescent Fields, 180. 

Clarke's Lane, 191. 

Corn -street, little, 192. 

Charles-street, 194. 

Casualty Hospital, 198. 

Claverton-place, 213. 

Classic Ground, English, 214. 

Combe Down and StoneQuar- 
ry, description of, 227. 

Claverton Down, 229. 

Claverton House and Church, 
231. 

Christ Church, 237. 

Corsham House ; catalogue 
of the paintings, descrip- 
tion of the grounds, &c. 
246. 

Cook's Folly, Clifton, 279. 

Clifton Downs, ibid. 

Clifton Church, 282. 

Clifford, Lord, grounds and 
park of, 288." 

Coaches from London to 
Bath, 11. 

Coaches, list of, from Bath 
to London, and various 
other parts of the Kingdom, 
310. 

Caravans on the Bath, Bris- 
tol, and other roads, 313. 



Duchess of Devonshire, 8. 
Druid's Temple, 28. 
Derry Hill, 31. 
Dover-street, 36. 
Duke of Beaufort, an early 

patron of Bath, 49. 
Duke of Bedford, bust of, 

101. 
Darlington-street, 109. 
Duke- street, 112. 



Duke of Sussex, 132. 

Dodd, Dr. W. 141. 

Duel between two Frenchmen 

of rank, 229. 
Donkeys, charge per hour, at 

Clifton, 279. 
Draper, Sir William, 280. 
Dressing-room of Lady de 

Clifford, ^89. 

Entrance to Bath, description 
of, 33. 

Epitome of ancient and mo- 
dern Bath, 38. 

Earl of Darlington, 54. 

Epigrams on the vast increase 
of Bath, 55. 

Eating Houses, 66. 

Edgar-buildings, 74. 

Eye Infirmary, 100. 

Extraordinary duel between 
Mr. Sheridan and Mr. 
Matthews, 290. 

Forgeries, extent of, 15. 

Forxfield, Almshouses at, 26. 

Fifield, 27. 

FriendlyBrothers, club of, 38. 

Fares allowed to the Chair- 
men, 68. 

First place of attraction at 
Bath, 73. 

Fashionable promenade, 75. 

Ferry, the, 111. 

Freemasons' Hall, description 
of, 129. 

Frail Sisterhood, 192. 

Free Girls' School, 212. 

Fielding, Henry, Esq. 214. 

Fine Arts, 246. 

Fox, Dr. anecdote of, 270. 

Fairs at Bath, 319. 

Grand Junction Canal, its 

extent, 10. 
George III. long reign of, 21. 



324 



INDEX. 



Grosvenor-place, 35. 
Gaming, Bath distinguished 

for, 49. 
General Hospital, 77. 
General Wade, 85. 
Gloucester Place and Street, 

139. 
Gay -street, 153. 
Gravel-walk, 155. 
Gascoyn-place, 161. 
Garrick's Head Tavern, 163. 
Guildhall, description of, 167. 
Green-stieet, 172. 
Grammar School, Public, ib. 
Gerrard-street, 191. 
Green-park-buildings, West, 

194. 

Green-park-place, East, ib. 
Gasometer, the, 195. 
Grove-street, 201. 
Graves, the Rev. Mr. 231. 
Grove-place, 237. 
Grand Stand, ibid. 
Gobeling tapestry, 263. 
" Gypsy iug" it at Lea-wood, 

<Z76. 
Giant's Hole, '277. 
Grotto, curious, at Clifton, 

282. 
George III. bust of, 168. 



Holland House, 4. 

Hammersmith, ibid. 

Hounslow, account of, 13. 

Halloran, a noted highway- 
man, original anecdote of, 
14. 

Herschell, Sir William, anec- 
dote of, 20. 

Hare Hatch, village of, 22. 

Half-way House, 25. 

Hungerford, account of its 

" Home-brewed," excellent, 
ibid. 

Hanover-place, 36. 



Huntingdon's, Countess of, 

Chapel, 37. 
Harmonic Society, 71. 
Hot-Bath, 98. 
Hetlev-court, 100. 
Horse-street, 101. 
Humane Society drags, &c. 

111. 
Henry-street, \37 . 
Harris-street, ibid. 
Hurley-street, 139. 
Harrington-place, 157. 
High-street, 166. 
Henrietta-street, 176. 
House of Protection, account 

of, 185. 
Hooper-street, 237. 
Haselbury-hill, 247. 
Holloway, 267. 
Hospital for Idiots, 268. 
Hawkins, Sir John, Bt. 269. 
Hot Wells, Bristol, 274. 
Hot-Well-House and Pump- 

Room, Bristol, its water, 

&c. ibid. 
Hongroad, 285. 

Itinerary (descriptive) from 
London to Bath, 2. 

Iron House, 36 

Increase of Bath ; its popu- 
lation, &c. 53. 

Inns, principal, at Bath, 64. 

Inscription of the Corner- 
stone of Bathwick Church, 
109. 

Inscription-stone of the New 
Freemasons' Hall, 131. 

I nde pendent Meeting-House, 
(Mr. Jay's,) 201. 

Isabella-place, delightful pro- 
spect from, 226. 

Itinerary (descriptive) from 
Bath to Bristol, 266. 

Itinerary of the principal 
roads from Bath, 317. 



INDEX. 



325 



Jersey, Earl of, 11. 

Jordan, Mrs. celebrated co- 
median, anecdotes of, poe- 
try, epitaph, &c. 17. 

Jurisdiction of Bath, 60. 

John's Chapel, St. 100. 

James's Parade, St. 101. 

James's Church, St. 102. 

John-street, St. 157. 

James's-square, St. 179. 

Johnstone-street, 202- 

Jail, New, Bristol, 271. 



Kew Palace, 9. 
Kiln-green, 22. 
Kensington Place, 36. 
Kensington Chapel, ibid. 
Kennet and Avon Canal, 60. 
King's Bath, 94. 
Kingston Baths, 104. 
Kingston-buildings, 107. 
Kingston Rooms ; or, Old, 

112. 
Kingsmead-terrace, 193. 
King's-street, New, 196. 
Kingsmead-street, 198. 
Kelveston House, 269. 
Keynsham, town of, ibid. 
King's-road, Bristol, 279. 
King's Weston Hill, 288. 



List of Plates, 10. 
Land's End, road to, 13. 
Longford, village of, 17. 
Langley-Broom, 20. 
Lansdown, Marquis of, anec- 
dote of, 31. 
Lambridge, 35. 
Lower East-Hayes, 36. 
Long-Mere, ibid, 
London-street, 37. 
Lodging-Houses, 65. 
Lancasterian School, 103. 
Lampard-buildings, 140. 



Linley Family, 151. 
La Motte, ibid. 
Lady-Mead, 173. 
London-terrace, 175. 
Lansdown-grove, 178. 
Lansdown-pJace, East and 

West, ibid. 
Lansdown-crescent, ibid. 
Lovegrove, Mr. comedian, 

187. 
Lower Borough-walls, 191. 
Linley, Miss, 195. 
Lama-place. 201. 
Lama Chapel, ibid. 
Labyrinth, or Maze in Syd- 
ney Gardens, account of, 
207. 
Look-out, antique, in Prior- 
park, 229. 
Lansdown-square, 237. 
Lansdown Fair, account of, 

238. 
Lansdown Pillar, 239. 
London-road, 247. 
Lamplighter's-Hall, Glouces- 

shire, 286. 
Literary Characters (natives) 
or connected with Bath, 
295. 

John Hales, ibid. 
Mr. Anstey, 296. 
Mrs. Sheridan, ibid. 
R. Tickell, Esq. 302. 
Sir John and Lady Mil- 
ler, 304. 
John Palmer, Esq. 305. 
W. Dimond, Esq. 306. 
Rev. Richard YVarner, 

307. 
Miss Warner, 308. 
Dr. Harrington, ibid. 
Caleb Hillier Parry, 

M. D. 309. 
Charles Parry, M. D. 

310. 
John Cranch, 134. 

Ff 



326 



INDEX. 



Philosophical and Lite- 
rary Institution, ibid. 
Public Library, ibid. 



Margate compared with 

Bath, 1. 
Mail Coach adventures, 2. 
Margravine of Anspach, 5. 
Marlborough, Duke of, 11. 
Maidenhead Bridge, 21. 
Maidenhead, town of, and 

thicket, 22. 
Miseries of travelling, 24. 
Marlborough Forest, 26. 
Marlborough, town of, white 
horse cut out of the turf, 
&c. 27. 
Manton, ibid. 
Myrtle-place, 36. 
Milsom-street, 74. 
Monuments of Quin, Rauz- 
zine, Beau Nash, Lady 
Miller, &c. 85. 
Masters of the Ceremonies, 
at various times, 115, 143. 
Murford-street, 140. 
Margaret-buildings, ibid. 
Margaret Chapel, ibid. 
Market-house, 166. 
Market, public, ibid. 
Mayor of Bath, gallantry of. 

169. 
Margaret-place, 175. 
Mount-pleasant, 178. 
Marlborough- street, 179. 
Marlborough-buildings, ibid. 
Moravian Burying-ground, 

186. 
Milk-street, 193. 
Mancroft-place, 196. 
M^nmouth-street, 198. 
Moravian Chapel, ibid. 
Monuments of Ralph Allen, 
Esq. and of the wife and 



son of Bishop Warburtou, 

232. * 
Montpelier-row, 236. 
Moreland, George, 248. 
Mary Magdalene Chapel, 

267. 
Montpelier of England, 279. 
Mangeon Hotel, Clifton, 282, 
Miles, Mr. house of, 287. 
Managers of the Theatre, 

various, 159. 
Minerva, head of, bronze, 

168. 



Northumberland, Duke of, 
10. 

Newbury, town of, 24. 

Nelson-place, 36. 

Newspapers, 66. 

Newspaper presented to her 
Majesty, 103. 

Nash, Beau, history of, anec- 
dotes, &c. 116. 

Northumberland-place, 171. 

Northgate-street, 172. 

Nelson-place, 175. 

Notice, curious, at Weston, 
188. 

Norfolk Crescent, 194. 

Nelson-street, 196. 

Nile-street, ibid. 



Old Time,a poetical address, 8 
Overton, village of, 27. 
Octagon Chapel, 76» 
Orange Grove, 128. 
Orchard-street, 137. 
Old Masters, 247. 

Peter Pindar, anecdote of, 1. 
Palace at Brighton, account 

of, 3. 
Poem addressed to the heart,6 
Pickwick, village of, 31. 



INDEX. 



327 



Piccadilly, 36. 
Paragon-buildings, 37. 
Physicians, not bathing, 43. 
Pulteney, Sir William, 54. 
Poetic descri ption of Bath,57. 
Poetry, on the restorative 

qualities of the water of 

Bath, 61. 
Police of Bath, ibid, 
Penny-Post, 66. 
Public Libraries, Circulating, 

ibid. 
Post-Office, General, 69. 
Parsonage-lane, 77. 
Pump-Room, Great, 91. 
Private Baths, New, 96. 
Pinch, Mr. architect, 109. 
Pulteney Bridge, view of,lll. 
Parade, North, 112. 
Pierrepoint-street, ibid. 
Phillips-street, 137. 
Portland-place, 139. 
Portland Chapel, ibid. 
Poetic description of theBalls, 

149. 
Performers of the Bath Thea- 
tre, 158. 
Parsonage House, account of, 

164. 
Prince and Princess of 

Orange, 168. 
Pin Manufactory, 173. 
Palmer, Mr. architect, 178. 
Park-place, 179. 
Pulteney Bridge, 201. 
Pulteney-street, Great, ibid. 
Poetic Address to the Bower 

in Sydney Gardens, by Mr. 

Sheridan, 205. 
Pulteney-street,Great Upper, 

209. 
Prior Park- House,description 

of, 213. 
Pope and Martha Blount, 

221. 
Prospect-place, 227* 



Prospect-style, description 
of, 242. 

Poetic description of St. Vin- 
cent's Rocks, 277. 

Prince of Wales's Crescent, 
Clifton, 281. 

Pen Pole, fine prospect from, 
286. 

Pill, town of, ibid. 

Paintings, list of, at Lord de 
Clifford's House, 291. 



Queen, death of her Majesty, 
and remarks on her cha- 
racter, 9. 

Quemerford Bridge, 29. 

Queen's Bath, 95. 

Quaker's Meeting-house,10l. 

Queensbury, Duchess of, 
anecdote of, 121. 

Queen-square, 153. 

Queen-square Chapel, 154. 

Quiet-street, 157. 

Quay, New, 193. 

Queen's Parade, 199. 

Queen's House, description of, 
208. 

Queen Elizabeth,fine painting 
at Corsham House, 262. 



Reading, town of, 23. 

Riding Schools, 67, 

Royal visitors at Bath, va*> 
rious times, 71. 

Rack, Mr. Edmund, 100, 

Road, New, to Widcombe, 
111. 

Rivers-street, 140. 

Room, New ; or Upper, ac- 
count of, 141. 

Rauzzini, Mr. 151. 

Royal Crescent, 179. ' 

Richmond House, 237. 

Race Ground, ibid* 



828 



INDEX. 



Steam boats, advantages of, 1. 

Sion House, 10. 

Smallberry Green, 11. 

Sir Joseph Banks, ibid. 

Slough, village of, 20. 

Salt-Hill, ibid. 

Scott, Sir William, 23. 

Speenhamland, 24. 

Speen, numerous seats, ibid. 

Silbury Hill, 28. 

Studley, village of, 30. 

Subscription-house, 38. 

Sedan Chairs, &c. 67. 

Society for promoting Chris- 
tian Knowledge, 76. 

Stall-street, 81. 

Sjdney-place, 108. 

South -parade, 1 11. 

Saville-row, 141. 

Saw's-close, 163. 

St. Michael's Church, 172. 

Spencer's Belle Vue, 178. 

Somerset-place, 179. 

Somerset House, ibid. 

Sion Hill, 185. 

St. Catharine's Hospital, 191. 

Seymour-street, 194. 

Sheridan, Richard Brinsley, 
Esq. 195. 

Stanhope-street, 1 96. 

Stable-lane, 199. 

Sunderland-street, 203. 

Sydney Tavern and Gardens, 
account of, ibid. 

Springfield-place, 237. 

Saltford, 269. 

St. Vincent's Parade, Clifton, 
275. 

St. Vincent's Rocks, 276. 

Sion House, Clifton, 281. 

Sharpies, Miss and George, 
portrait-painters, in cray- 
ons, at Clifton, ibid. 

ShH to the port of Pill, 284. 



Shirehampton, village of, 
Gloucestershire, 286. 

Search nights at Bath, con- 
sequences of, 170. 



Turnham Green, various 
seats, 7. 

Tetsworth Water, 20. 

Teryford, village of, 22. 

Theal, seats near it, 23. 

Thatcham, 24. 

Theatre, Old, 137. 

Theatre Royal, New, ac- 
count of. 157. 

Trim-street, 161. 

Turnerelli, Mr. 168. 

Twiverton, village of, 268. 

Tomb Marie, 288. 



Unitarian Chapel, 161. 
Upper Borough Walls, 172. 
Upper Camden-place, 177. 
Upper Park-street, 179. 
Upper Bristol -road, 196. 
Union BlueCoat School, 199. 



Vineyards, the, 37. 
Visit to Corsham House, 246. 
Visit to Lord de Clifford's 
House, 288. 



Windsor Castle, view of, 20. 
Woolhampton, village of, 24. 
West-Ken net, famed for it3 

beverage, 28. 
Walcot-buildings, 36. 
Walcot New Chapel, 37. 
Webster, Captain, first master 

of the ceremonies, 49. 
Westgate-buildings, 100. 



INDEX. 



329 



Wey mouth-street, 102. 
Waterloo Gardens, 111. 
Wood, Mr. architect, ac- 
count of, 153. 
Wood-street, 157. 
Westgate-street, 1 64. 
Walcot-street, 173. 
W r alcot Burying-Ground,174. 
Walcot Church, Monuments, 

&c. ibid. 
Walcot Parade, 175. 
Walcot Ferry, 176. 
Winifired's Cottage, St. 179. 
Weston,village of, promenade | 

to, 183. 
Waterfall at Weston, 186. 
Weston Church, monuments, 

&c. 187. 
Whitehead, Miss, estate of, 

188. 
Wine-street, 191. 



Wesleyan Chapel, account of, 

197. 
William-street, 203. 
Waterloo- pi ace, 212. 
Widcome, ibid. 
Widcome Parade, ibid. 
Warburton, Bishop, 214. 
Western, Squire, no traces of 

the original character, 218. 
Wick, Rocks of, 239. 
White Swan, Pickwick, 248. 
Watts's Folly, Clifton, 273. 
Watts, Mr. anecdote of, 274. 
William and Mary Packet, 

loss of, 286. 
Waggons, list of, 315. 
Water Carriage, 316. 

York-place, 36. 
York-buildings, 37. 
York Hotel, ibid. 



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